After finishing the painting task for a day, I will record it in the spirit of having a plan to record it;
The primer and topcoat are for painting pure logs and are not suitable for those who have already finished painting. Oiled wood.
To test the color, start by experimenting with a window.
For oiled wood, replace the sealing primer with primer
1. Base layer treatment: First remove the dust and oil on the surface of the wood. If there is oil on the surface of the wood, use vinyl. Use the material to scrub away the oil stains. After removing the dust and oil, use sandpaper, wrap a large piece of sandpaper with a 5cm square wooden pad and use it for sanding. Requires smoothing, polishing, and cleaning. The base layer is too poor and needs to be sanded at least four times from coarse to fine sandpaper. Then apply one layer of paint and sand it with fine sandpaper, leaving the last layer of topcoat unsanded. The same goes for logs.
2. Apply the first coat of water-based sealing primer: when painting, it should be horizontally and vertically, the thickness should be even, not flowing or falling, the brushing pattern should be smooth, and no leakage is allowed. After drying, sand it with No. 1 sandpaper. Wipe clean with a damp cloth and let dry. The merchant on Taobao said it is 2 hours. The woodworking website requires that the interval between each coat of paint is generally about 6 hours in summer. According to my own actual experiments, it is recommended that it should be more than 2 hours, and it is best to wait until it is completely dry. In spring and autumn, it is about 24 hours. If possible, a longer time is better. Also, for wood that has been oiled. I'm not sure whether it should be the first coat of primer and then putty or the first coat of putty and then the first coat of varnish. Theoretically, the function of the first coat of varnish is to apply a layer of sealing primer on the logs to seal the oil secreted by some logs and prevent light colors such as white from being contaminated and turning yellow. It can also block part of the wood smell, and also has a slight anti-mildew effect, preventing the background color from turning yellow, preventing cracking and swelling. Here I use sealing primer for raw wood and metal primer for oiled furniture
3. Sand and apply sealing primer again, cycle 2 to 3 times, preferably at least 3 hours between each time.
4. Install the glass and fix the nails, with three long sides and two short sides, and three long sides. Nails are spaced a hand's length apart.
5. Transparent putty: It is said to be transparent, but it feels no different from wall putty. It is white putty that needs to be scraped and collected, and should not be missed. The carpentry website said it was full of scratches, so I just plastered the gaps around the windows and nail holes.
6. Sanding paper: After the putty is completely dry, use sandpaper bricks and fine sandpaper to smooth the surface. After grinding, use a cloth to wipe clean. Then use the same putty to scrape the second layer. The requirements are the same as the first layer of putty. After scraping, apply putty on the nail holes and missing edges and corners. After applying the putty until it is full and smooth, sandpaper and polish it evenly to make the wood grain clear. Do not fray the edges and corners. Clean them after grinding, wipe them with a damp cloth and let them dry.
7. Spray color and color repair: Spray color essence or color oil to repair the knots, nail holes, etc. that have been painted with the first coat of paint. You should flexibly control the color according to the color at that time. The color should be basically the same as the original color. This is a requirement of the Woodworking Network, I didn’t do this step.
8. Apply the first coat of water-based topcoat or the second coat of water-based varnish: first check the spray color and color correction. If it meets the requirements, you can apply the second coat of varnish. After the varnish is dry, use No. 1 For sanding, I used sand bricks and 800 fine sandpaper. Wipe clean with a damp cloth. Check again in detail. If there is any missing putty or uneven areas, reapply colored putty. After drying, smooth the area and wipe clean with a damp cloth.
9. Apply the third coat of water-based varnish or topcoat: After the second coat of water-based varnish is dry, sand it with No. 280 water sandpaper and wipe it clean. The remaining operations are the same as above.
10. Apply the fourth coat of water-based varnish or topcoat: If you want a matte effect, add matte essence. After applying the fourth coat of water-based varnish, wait for the paint film to dry and harden before applying No. 280 -320 water sandpaper for grinding, polishing, smoothing, and wiping clean after grinding.
To put it simply, 5678 is topcoat or varnish. Each coat of topcoat is applied thinly, at least 2 hours apart, and it must be sanded and cleaned between each pass.
11. Rub the glazing wax: Wrap the glazing wax on the woodworking net with a clean white cloth, tie it tightly, rub it with your hands, rub it evenly, and wipe it clean until it is bright. I used a brush to apply water-based wood wax oil. The woodworking water-based varnish I used here, I don’t know if it is correct or not, it is indeed bright. I plan to polish and oil it three times to see the effect.
Quality requirements:
It is strictly prohibited to peel off skin, miss brushing, stains, smooth brown eyes, clear wood grain, soft light, smooth and unobstructed, good hand feel, no sag or wrinkles Leather, consistent color, no brush marks.
Official description about deburring method;
Method to solve burr
After wood gets wet, water seeps in along the micro-gaps in the wood fiber tube and wood grain. , causing it to expand and protrude from the surface of the wood, which cannot be restored after drying. Therefore, after the wood is coated with water-based paint, wood grain protrusions, particles, and burrs will appear.
1. Seal the wood surface with wax-free shellac paint. This method is better than the water-wet method. In addition to preventing the water-based paint from causing graining and burrs, it can also increase the layering of the wood. However, due to the color of shellac itself, it tends to give the wood a slight amber tint. Shellac paint back sealing is very useful for old paint surfaces and wood surfaces that may have been contaminated by grease, release agents, and organic silicon compounds. It can prevent construction problems such as shrinkage holes and fish eyes caused by water-based paint. During the painting process, if shrinkage holes and fisheyes are found on the painted surface, especially if the old paint surface is painted, the water-based paint that has been applied should be wiped off, polished and sealed with dewaxed shellac paint, and then painted with water-based paint. paint. Shellac paint is an alcohol solution of shellac and can be applied by brushing or rubbing. After sealing the back cover, polish it with sandpaper of 400# or above, and then wipe the polished surface with alcohol or a wet cloth. This can increase the adhesion of the topcoat.
2. Wipe the wood surface to be painted with a damp cloth that can squeeze out water to fully moisten the wood surface. After drying, use fine sandpaper to polish off the burrs and particles formed. Then apply a primer, and after drying, lightly sand with about 400# sandpaper. For porous wood, apply two primers before polishing. At this time, the first primer should be diluted with 5% to 10% water before use.