At the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, there were velvet weavers and businessmen in shops specially set up for swimming outside the East Gate of Zhangzhou. In the middle of Qing Dynasty, velvet antler was taken as a tribute by emperors, literati and local gentry. Products include robes, court clothes, mandarin jackets, lintels, tablecloths and so on. At that time, Zeng Da was a good weaver. Cultural relics handed down from ancient times include the velvet gilded crown of Qingling, the eight treasures blue cardigan in the late Qing Dynasty, three long-lived purple embroidered shawls in the Guangxu period of Qing Dynasty, the landscape painting axis of Zhang Rong, the peacock painting axis of Shenquan in Zhang Rong, and the five bats holding the longevity sculpture of Zhang Rong.
During the Taiping Rebellion, famous velvet artists and craftsmen avoided chaos in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, the government was corrupt, Zhangzhou mulberry forest was cut down for land reclamation, silk raw materials were increasingly scarce, old artists died one after another, and velvet antler gradually declined. Only two velvet weavers, Lai Zi and Ceng He, participated. Nanjing, Hangzhou and other places have developed because of the arrival of velvet artists.
1929 (18), in order to resume velvet production, Zhangzhou established a work-study school and hired a famous artist, Professor Wang Ming, to teach knitting technology, but his ambition was not realized and Wang Ming died. In the early days of War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression, Gao Kaikou, Wang Xiwen, Wang Yucheng and others organized 10 people to teach art behind Zhangzhou Garden in order to resume production. However, the quality and style are worse than in the past, and the sales volume and cost have been impacted by the products of Hangzhou and Nanjing, and the production was stopped only three months. According to the investigation of 1952, there are no more than 10 cashmere artists (including Buwei and Liu in Longxi), all of whom are over 60 years old, and their tools are lost, so it is difficult to resume production. Later, the relevant departments sent two cadres from Zhangzhou Silk and Yarn Factory to visit counties in Longxi area and learned that there are still people who can knit cashmere in Nanjing. From 65438 to 0958, Zhangzhou Silk and Yarn Factory sent people to Nanjing, Hangzhou and Suzhou for professional training, and Nanjing sent machines to Zhangzhou. So the "velvet" of Zhangzhou regained its vitality. 196 1 in March, Dong's inscription "Gentleman's shoes-Comrade Mao Zedong's road is the road to guide China's revolution" was woven by silk mill with velvet "blooming" technology, which is unprecedented since the advent of velvet. Later, due to funds and other reasons, production was stopped. As of 2009, only one street-run factory in Zhangzhou produced velvet antler.
From 65438 to 0994, Jing Yun, a female worker in Danyang, bought the original velvet workshop of Zhang Rong Silk Weaving Factory in Danyang, studied velvet seriously and visited famous teachers all over the world. Finally, she learned a set of hand-knitting techniques of Nanjing velvet from Master Zhou in Suzhou, and made innovations. At the end of 1999, Dai Chunming of Danyang Zhang Rong Silk Weaving Factory manufactured the first woven velvet product, and finished the semi-woven velvet with stable quality and good luster, and was awarded the "patent certificate for utility model" by the state. Since then, weaving in Zhang Rong has changed from manual weaving to semi-mechanical weaving, from small-scale test to pilot test and then to mass production. In the past, two people could only knit 0.8 meters a day, but now one machine can knit 4 meters a day, and the annual output has increased from less than 2,000 meters to nearly 200,000 meters, meeting the market demand for high-end clothing fabrics. In 2003, Yin Zhicong, the provincial representative inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage project, presided over the restoration of carved velvet production, trained carved velvet artists, collected and sorted out a number of traditional works and production tools, and restored the whole set of carved velvet production technology. Dai Chunming's daughter, Dai Ling, successfully copied a carved velvet chair cover in the early years of the Qing Dynasty, and won the gold medal and the silver prize at the 20 13 China Arts and Crafts Fair and the Jiangsu Arts and Crafts Grand Prix held this year. On March 26th, 2007, the velvet weaving technique declared by Danyang City was declared as the intangible cultural heritage of Zhenjiang City by Zhenjiang Municipal People's Government, and was declared as the first batch of intangible cultural heritage of Jiangsu Province by Jiangsu Provincial Government in June 5438+065438+ 10.