300s is the top sports machine in APS-C ... Many parameters are difficult to handle.
White balance As long as you put it in automation, you can meet most of the needs. I mostly use color temperature and customization now. In some very important occasions, when the light source is very complicated, you can shoot with RAW and bring more cards. How to adjust the white balance later?
I usually focus on the center when measuring light. Sometimes the light source is more complicated, so it is manual. 300s Quan Huafu average photometry feels a little second ... I don't know where it is when the light ratio is greater than one. You can try them all and see which one is accurate. But don't rely too much on the machine. Whether the exposure is accurate depends on whether the content you want to express is accurate. Practice more manual work when you have time. It is especially useful when it is used manually.
I use patterns from more to less: A, M, P, S. With a tripod, I don't care much about the shutter. The scenery and depth of field of the scene are the most important. I will use m in this case, except for some occasions where a shutter is needed.
Only when your shutter speed is so low that the subject becomes virtual should you improve ISO. Drop if you can. The picture quality of 300s makes me think it is the upper limit of 800. However, I still keep the depth of field first.
Continuous shooting: Usually I put it on the slow continuous shooting and set it at 5 frames per second. In this way, if there is a sudden wonderful scene, you won't miss it, and you won't waste space because continuous shooting is too fast. Sports, sports, macro, animals, children, I am usually a high-speed continuous shooting. Use q if you have any requirements for noise.
Focus, generally use single-point AF-S, exercise with 2 1 point dynamic AF-C, global 3D tracking is still a bit second-rate, running around when there are many people and mixed backgrounds. Continuous focusing adopts focus+shutter. In other words, the camera gives a higher focus weight by sacrificing a certain number of continuous shooting lenses per second. What's the use if you can't get a shot even if you practice focusing? Except for special ideas, of course.
The quality of photos comes first. At ordinary times, you need to turn on 12 bit RAW, and change it to 14 bit RAW when shooting scenery. 14 bit RAW continuous shooting only has 2.5 photos per second.
Only when it is used for noise reduction for a long time. Will affect the camera cache capacity.
D light is generally off, and the dark details of machine optimization are always a little second. If necessary, I prefer to do HDR myself in the future. Of course, if time doesn't allow, I still have to turn it on.
High sensitivity noise reduction is generally standard. This will sacrifice some details. I basically don't open sports. It will affect about 9 continuous shooting caches, which is much more important than noise reduction. Later, I picked out the beautiful moments and copied them to Apple to optimize myself. Apple's picture is really not covered.
I define the custom button as RAW, so that you can set RAW quickly without leaving your left hand behind the camera and your eyes behind the camera. Sometimes the light source will suddenly become an emergency. Such as stage photography.
The depth of field previews my defined bracketing exposure. Sometimes the light ratio is large and the exposure is not accurate, so it is surrounded. When preparing HDR, there are also high-speed continuous shooting and tripods around. Minimize the differences between photos to prevent HDR from failing. I'm nearsighted, but I can't see many eggs in the preview of depth of field. Let's zoom in and see the accuracy of depth of field after shooting. Of course, the depth of field can also be felt in many cases.
Usually, photos taken with classmates and GF are put in SD cards, cameras and RAW are in CF, and many notebooks have SD sockets, which make it very convenient to copy photos, make room for sharing, etc. I'll put it all on the CF sports page. My new CF card is much faster, which can quickly release the cache space. SD is only used as a backup card when CF is full. CF card is safer, because I value RAW more. Sure, you can put it in cf.
The exposure step is 1/3, and sometimes it is 1/2 when the exposure is just so accurate, but it is rare.
Simple exposure compensation is on. This exposure adjustment can keep eyes from leaving the field of vision and hands from leaving the lens.
I set the AF-L/AE-L button to AE-L and locked me in half through the shutter. Exposure locking is very useful for using a lens with no aperture constant and frequent zooming. He can guarantee that all your photos are exposed in the same way. So it is no problem to find a good exposure combination at first.
My central focus is 8 mm.
The duration of metering on is one minute. I don't know if you have noticed. On the premise of turning off metering, there will always be a delay of 1 second when the display screen is suddenly turned on (whether looking at menus, photos, LV or info). Not when you open the exposure, and it's very fast. This second is very important, which may spoil the fun, or delay the time and miss some shots. It won't be long. It needs electricity to maintain.
If you have a handle, put the battery in the handle first. The battery in the D300s fuselage can only be replaced after the handle is removed.
I opened the viewfinder grid and warned. The grid can be used as a horizontal reference. The electronic level is not very fast. I only use it when I need accurate level (such as buildings). I won't say a warning. When you are busy, you will always ignore the battery symbol and no card status of the shoulder screen.
I won't say the rest one by one. It will take you a month or two to understand. I coded the word 1600 one by one. I am grateful for these scores. Sure, I hope I can help. Ha ha.
Thank god.