Last year, because the patent of online L 'Oré al was about to expire, it also triggered a controversy about whether the domestic boson was effective. I will talk about this next time when I have time.
Let's talk about the principle first, then the product.
0 1
What is a boson?
In 2006, Bosone (trade name: Pro-Xylane, which will be called C-Xyloside in L 'Oré al's patents or documents) was born from Lancome Lab, which jumped out of the thinking limitation of traditional anti-aging ingredients and became the most famous patent ingredient of L 'Oré al in these years.
This component was originally extracted from the European beech tree, but now it is not the original "natural extract", but the xylose derivative hydroxypropyl tetraoxide -hydropyrantriol. After determining its chemical formula, it was modified in the laboratory.
Explain the relationship between "boson" and "hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyratriol" a little, they are not completely equivalent. "Boson" comes from the original extract. Solvent is needed for extraction, so it is a mixture: "hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyranone"+mixed solvent "water" and "propylene glycol" (that is, if the product claims to contain 10% boson, it is not equal to 10% hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyranone, so it is needed.
This structure seems to have a lot of anti-oxidation and hydrophilicity-oh, that is, hydroxyl. The molecular weight is small, only about 200, which is similar to the familiar effective functional components nicotinamide and vitamin C, and the permeability will be very good. It seems that the seed player has great potential.
02
Main effects of bosons
Now the concept of anti-aging has been deeply rooted in people's hearts, and many girls in their twenties have begun to have this awareness, which is not a bad thing. However, the anti-aging program for this age group is strongly recommended to be simple, and the combination of sunscreen and moisturizing is the primary task.
Loose skin and wrinkles are the most obvious manifestations of most people's shock that they are old (so they are young when they grind their skin)
The reason is very complicated, but a big reason is the loss of collagen.
Therefore, the research and development of many functional components aims at reducing the loss of collagen and stimulating the regeneration of collagen.
Bosons can do this.
In order to understand its efficacy, let's first look at collagen, which comes from two ancient Greek words: "kolla" means glue, and "gen" means production, which means that collagen is related to the amount of adhesion ~
Collagen is a very large family, distributed all over the body. The main types of collagen affecting the skin are type I, type III, type IV, type V, type VI, type VII, type XII and type XVII.
Collagen accounts for about 70% of the skin, and together with elastin, it forms an elastic scaffold structure of the skin in the dermis to maintain the elasticity and fullness of the skin.
On the left of the above picture is the condition of young skin, which is well supported; On the right is aging skin, which has become damaged due to the loss of collagen and elastin.
Bosons restore skin elasticity and improve skin wrinkles mainly through the following two ways:
1. Promote the synthesis of type IV collagen and type VII collagen.
Skin is divided into epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue, of which collagen type ⅰ and ⅲ are the main parts of dermis.
However, there is a key part between epidermis and DEJ: the junction of dermis and epidermis, which connects them into a whole, and it is also where collagen ⅳ, ⅶ and ⅹ are located.
In DEJ, type IV collagen is woven into a protein net, and type ⅹ collagen extends upward to connect with basal cells of epidermis, while type I and type III collagen of dermis are pulled downward through type ⅶ collagen, which makes epidermis and dermis fit better.
Hyaluronic acid can strengthen the connection of DEJ, tighten epidermis and dermis, and make skin firm by promoting the synthesis of collagen ⅳ and collagen ⅶ.
2. Promote the production of glycosaminoglycans
Simply put, if collagen and elastin are skeletons, glycosaminoglycan is the filler between skeletons, which absorbs a lot of water and adheres to surrounding cells, forming elastic colloid and propping up the fullness of skin.
A well-known glycosaminoglycan is hyaluronic acid (HA).
Bosin can promote the synthesis of glycosaminoglycan and restore the colloidal state, thus enhancing skin elasticity and relieving dry lines and fine lines.
The explanation of "skip here" is simple, but not accurate. For example, bosons actually improve the polymerization of DEJ by increasing the expression of proteoglycan. A large number of in vitro experiments can not represent its appearance in human body, and the statistical deviation of human experiments may be great, even water is not excluded. However, academic research on this ingredient is much more than other ingredients, and it seems to be more reliable. It may not be so effective, but it will be effective from the analysis of structure and principle.
Let's move on. Ou Niangniang's research report shows that besides being a small molecule, it can easily penetrate into the skin and play a reliable role. Compared with vitamin A, nicotinamide and vitamin C, which are also proved to be effective, Bose is particularly mild, not to mention tolerant, and has no burden at high concentration (essentially sugar water).
Even using high concentration can repair the skin after medical beauty. Bose's popularity also benefited from the fact that black and white bandages can be used to treat small wounds after medical cosmetic surgery.
Moreover, L 'Oré al published an article saying that low concentration of Bosone (3%) can effectively slow down skin aging after two months of use through skin experiments on 240 postmenopausal women. Therefore, bose, which is mild, effective and non-irritating, has blossomed everywhere in the L 'Oreal brand.
03
Bose containing products
Although there are many brands under the banner of domestic bosons, today we are talking about the products of the King of Bosons: Ou Niangniang.
According to the high (30%), medium (10~20%) and low (5%) boson concentration, the products are divided into three categories. When choosing this kind of products, besides the concentration of boson, we should also consider the collocation of other active substances and the balance of the whole formula.
The front are all sky-high products, and most of the sister papers are recommended to go back.
High concentration: 30%
At this concentration, bosons must be the main component.
The ingredient list is usually simple and expensive.
Helena Rubinstein black bandage
3480/50ml
30% Boson+Vaccinium extract, the cream industry shoulders the burden, the price is also shouldered, and the water quality in the oil is dense and delicate, which is the first echelon of anti-aging repair.
Xiulike Age Anti-saccharification Cream
1760/48ml
It is called "flat replacement" of black bandage, but this "parity" will make people shed tears of poverty. The formula is very similar, 30% boson+Vaccinium europaeum+salicylsphingosine, and the skin feel is not as good as black bandage.
Medium concentration: 10~20%
In addition to bosons, there are often other major components.
Helena Rubinstein's white bandage
3 180/50ml
Bose concentration 10~20% combined with dipotassium glycyrrhizinate+sodium hyaluronate+centella asiatica is more suitable for seasonal allergy and medical beauty repair than black bandage.
Beautiful purple rice essence
980/30 ml
10% Bose concentration+hyaluronic acid moisturizing+purple rice essence &; Potassium glycyrrhizinate soothes and octyl salicylic acid promotes penetration. The formula is simple, reasonable and comprehensive, and the skin feels good.
Helena Rubinstein Night Green Bottle
1630/50ml
10% Bose+ seashore stigma+fennel+octyl salicylic acid+adenosine, simple formula, and friendly to oily skin.
Helena Rubinstein Black Bandage Series Bobo A Essence
4080/30ml+30ml
Boaba: One is the essence of the dropper (10% boson+hyaluronic acid of various sizes), and the other is the essence of the hose (mainly alcohol A). In fact, the main idea is to use alcohol A, boson and hyaluronic acid to relieve it, otherwise some people will find it too exciting and the price is a bit scary.
Two kinds of gold essence
About 600/30ml
1
Feather golden urn essence
600/30ml
2
L 'Oreal Golden Truffle Essence
630/30ml
Finally came to the world, these two essences are 9- 10% Bose concentration, and the price is similar. They mainly revolve around the concept of truffles or cordyceps, and you can try to have them.
La roche-posay boson B5 essence.
360/40ml
8.6% boson concentration+panthenol-hyaluronic acid, moisturizing, repairing, anti-aging, cost-effective, a little sticky.
Low concentration: 5%
Formulas are often more balanced, not the main ingredients.
Lancome cyanine series
1080/20ml eye cream and 2680/60ml cream.
Bose concentration in the whole line is about 5- 10%, but it is not the main component. Excellent formula and excellent moisturizing ability. Thick texture is very suitable for the north, winter, dry skin, silky creamy muscles.
La roche-posay Regenerated Sculpting Essence
320/30 ml
5% Boson +2% L 'Oré al patented black technology LR24 12 (domestic wood), with excellent moisturizing and anti-wrinkle essence and high cost performance.
L' oreal Xiaomi restaurant
350/50 ml
About 5% boson+acetyl tetrapeptide -9, moisturizes the skin, keeps it silky, with a faint nectar aroma, and its cost performance is very acceptable. It is recommended.
L' oreal zitie
340/30 ml
3% boson +5% black tea fermented product+sodium hyaluronate, and many concepts such as caffeine and AA2G(VC derivative) mainly used for soy sauce are refreshing and moist. This is a very good eye cream.
L 'Oreal Double-tube Skin Rejuvenation Essence
158/48ml
6% boson +2%AA2G(VC derivative), although a mixture is suspected to be 3% (most of Yanfu series are 3% boson concentration), it is still a bottle of anti-aging essence with high cost performance.
Beauty filling bottle
139/30ml
5% Bose +4% nicotinamide+1% ethyl VC+ 1% caffeine, which focuses on whitening, so it is called nicotinamide stock solution essence, but with Bose added, it is said that there is a formula borrowed from high-end brands. The price is really kind, and there are often activities.
Domestic high concentration: 30%
30% Boson Stock Solution of Mannan Syrup
Reference price: 159/30ml
The product of manna syrup contains 30% Bose, and sodium hyaluronate is added to enhance the efficacy of moisturizing, anti-wrinkle and skin repair. On the whole, the product is colorless, odorless and easy to absorb. At the same time, replenish moisture to the skin and refuse dry skin. At present, products with high Bose content, which are rare in domestic cosmetics, are mild and non-irritating, and can also be used for sensitive muscles. It can effectively resist wrinkles, remove fine lines and shrink pores. It is a product with high cost performance.
Generally speaking; Generally speaking; Basically
Bosons are a good component.
But skin care products will never be magical.
It's amazing, but be careful.
Moisturizing and sun protection are still the most important foundations.