Ningguta, with a history of more than 300 years, has witnessed your ups and downs, your vicissitudes of life, your grief and indignation, your sigh and your singing. Now that you are quiet, few people disturb your dreams. The dust of the years buried your beautiful image, and the wind and rain of time washed away your sadness. Under the gaze of the sun and the moon for 300 years, you have become unrecognizable like an old man who is stumbling.
one
Once upon a time, I always thought that my hometown was a newly developed land, far away from the stories of famous castles, famous temples, famous mountains and rivers and celebrities in the south of the Yangtze River. After reading the History of Exile in China by Mr. Li and the Land of Exile by Yu Xiansheng, I know that there have been Haidong and Ningguta, a famous city in the northeast, as well as celebrities who spread China in the land I have lived and known since childhood. However, these ancient existences, and the stories that make people happy, proud or lament, have all become the past, and now they have vanished in people's memory. This can't help but make me sigh.
In fact, there are many written records about the cultural and historical remains of this land in historical archaeology and historical records. From 65438 to 0963, it was found in the archaeological excavation of Ying Ge Ridge site in Mudanjiang River Basin that it belonged to Neolithic Age about 4000 years ago, and primitive agriculture appeared in Mudanjiang River Basin. Stone axe, hammer-shouldered stone axe and plank knife unearthed from the site are the original tools for ancestors to cut down trees. A staghorn pick was also unearthed in the site, which was the earliest digging and sowing tool. A large number of nets and rich wild boar and deer bones were unearthed in the site, indicating that the fishing and hunting economy still accounted for a large proportion at that time. Looking through the yellowed ancient history books, the earliest books, bamboo slips, Dai Ji, historical records, Mandarin, Shan Hai Jing, all recorded some local customs, historical stories and folklore in this area. In modern times, a large number of works have emerged, such as Local Chronicles of Heilongjiang, Biographies of Ancient People in Heilongjiang, Records of Shengjing, Unique Jade, Liu Bian, Ningguta and Landscape of Ningguta. Some of these books are monographs on the history of this area. However, many books have long been lost in the yellow pile of old paper, and only a few historians have become patents for studying history. It is impossible for some ordinary people to be interested, which has become a historical phenomenon that few local people understand this history. In this way, they will not know much about this land, and there will be less glory, less regret, less lament, less warmth and indignation of the intellectual bourgeoisie. But this is what a person with conscience and national feelings does not want to see, which can not help but make you feel unfair for this land that once had a heavy sense of history.
I was speechless and couldn't tell what kind of mood I was in my heart. But I know I have to see for myself, even if it will bring more confusion and anxiety to my heart.
two
Northeast China and Jiangnan are less graceful and charming, but more masculine and open-minded. What you often see in Jiangnan is drizzle, bridges and pavilions. In the northeast, endless Yuan Ye or endless mountains and rivers come to us. Mudanjiang is a landscape with mountains, basins and flowing water. In this square garden, it covers an area of hundreds of miles. It is located between Zhangguangcailing and Laoyeling in the remaining vein of Changbai Mountain. From a distance, the mountains rise and fall, and the peaks are connected, stretching in the sky. Close look at the green mountains and waters, endless, pine and cypress, winding. Surrounded by mountains, there are basins, where the land is fertile and the water is flowing, which is often where people live. From a distance, the smoke from the kitchen is floating over the simple village, and the dense crops are dark green in the afterglow of the sunset.
On such an autumn day, I came to Laojie Township on the shore of the waves in hailin city. This is the harvest season of autumn melons. The cement road leading to the depths of the distant mountains has been well built. The melon farmer drove a cart full of watermelons and cantaloupes and passed me head-on and headed for the city. A faint melon fragrance immediately appeared in the surrounding dry air. What's more, people crowded and drove cars, bread and CMB all the way to the mountains. People are tired of the boring life in the city, wandering along the banks of the waves, staying in villa areas in the mountains, enjoying the quiet and leisurely life of wild farmers in the mountains, and letting the coolness of the mountains and the sweetness of melons and fruits satisfy their stomach desires. At this time, with an ancient dream, I embarked on a long journey to find historical footprints.
In any case, going to such a place full of ancient customs and temptations is exciting enough. Starting from Mudanjiang, I have always imagined everything here: rugged mountains stand around, and ancient castles are faintly visible under the cover of mountains and dense forests. The castle is made of hard stone, towering gates, protruding battlements, flying flags, mighty soldiers and a moat around the city, which make the castle look solemn and mysterious. However, when passers-by pointed to the front and said that the ancient city village had arrived. When I got off the bus, I looked in the direction indicated. As the sun sets, an ordinary village stands in front of me, but I can't help wondering: is this the ruins of Ningguta ancient city?
History books first called this land Ningguta, which originated from the migration of barbarian Jurchen to Haibo River basin in the early Ming Dynasty, and was called "Ningguta Road in the East China Sea". From then on, people began to call the Haibo River Basin Ningguta. There are many opinions about the origin of the name of Ningguta. One of them is that there used to be a tower on Longtou Mountain in the east of ancient times. On foggy days, no one can be seen hundreds of miles away, only Niu Jiao thunders, and the sound of "bang" keeps ringing. When the fog cleared, the tower on Longtou Mountain had fallen down. So people thought that the cow arched the tower, and this place began to be called "Niugong Tower". Later called Ningguta. However, looking through ancient books, we will read other aspects. Chenchen Wu's Notes on Gu Ning Baota said: "Manchuria is called six Gu Ning, and one tower has six Chinese characters." Fang Gonggan's "Absolute Realm" says: "I don't know where the Gu Ning Tower is, and I don't know where it belongs. There is no inch to record thousands of miles away, so I asked for no reason. " He also said: "It is said that there were six people sitting in the house at that time. Call six NingGong, sit for special. One is Ninggongtai and the other is Ningguta. " It is pointed out that Ninggongtai or Ningguta is just a name. Recently, Manchu experts verified that "Ningguta" means "six settlements", referring to six tribes, such as Saran, Peony, Jiaoluo, Shaerhu, Laojie and Mud.
I'm not an archaeologist, but I can't help but take the name of Gu Ning Baota seriously. Because it is related to the yesterday, today and future of Ningguta. After all, Ningguta used to be an important town in the north of Shengjing (Shenyang) in the northeast of China. This ancient city governs northern Jilin, most of Heilongjiang and some coastal border areas of Russia today. Although few people know it today, it was once prosperous and brilliant. That's enough.
three
The site of the ancient city where General Ningguta was stationed is located in the south bank of Xihailang River in Gucheng Village, Laojie Township, hailin city, which is the site of the ancient city in Qing Dynasty. This area is one of the vast basins in the Hailang River Basin. Here, the mountains and rivers are fertile, the land is rich, and the land and water are connected. According to records, the old town of Ningguta was built in 163 1 (the fifth year of Tiancong). The inner city of the old city of Ningguta is made of stone, with a height of more than ten feet and a circumference of one Li. Open only one door from east to west to the future. The outer city is five Li in circumference, and there is a gate on each side. Because the inner city is built of stone, it is also called stone city. After the villagers showed me the way, I came to Shicheng site. So I searched carefully, examined carefully, rummaged through the mud and stones to identify it. In repeated disappointments, I finally found the faintly discernible ancient city wall. It is said that this is the only remnant wall on the east and west sides of the inner city, about 300 meters long. The city wall is built with wooden sticks between loess, and the city foundation is built with stones. If it weren't for a stone tablet, your mind would never associate this place with an ancient castle. Nowadays, in order to protect the ancient city wall, the local government has built a weir about 10 meter long and 3 meters high on the ruins of the ancient city wall. In other places, the city walls and foundations have been buried by residual soil, and the wooden sticks have long been weathered out, leaving only a round hole like a question mark to tell you the doubts in its heart.
Why did Ningguta later move from the old city to the new city (now Ning 'an Town, Ning 'an City)? There is a legend: once upon a time, there were nine mountains around the old city, like nine dragons around the city, like dragons playing with pearls, which made it a treasure trove of geomantic omen. Later, because someone came to Longtoushan to dig for treasures and found the Golden Horse, Long Mai was cut off, leaving Kowloon out of balance. Since then, there have been floods and fires for years, and there is no peace. In fact, according to historical records, from 18 14 to 1885, there were ten consecutive floods in the Hailang River Basin. Because the old city is near the river, the terrain is low, and the flood has flooded the old city many times, which is very unsafe. At the same time, Russia invaded the Heilongjiang river basin many times. At ordinary times, the water level of Langhe River is not high, so it is necessary to move the resident to Mudanjiang so as to go out to hunt down Russian gangs at any time. So 1666 (the fifth year of Kangxi), General Ba Hai of Ningguta led the troops to build Ningguta New City, and in February of the same year, the resident moved. According to the "Ning 'an County Records", "A military building in the new city is rammed with pine, and it is more than 20 feet high. The inner city is 585 feet long and has three gates in the east, west and south: victory in the east, hope in the west and welcome in the south. The inner city is the general's office, and the outer city has East Street and West Street. " After the old city, the new city continued as the residence of General Ningguta for ten years. It was not until 1676 that the Qing government ordered the general office of Ningguta to move to Jilin.
When interviewing the history of Ningguta, I can't help but introduce three historical figures with reverence. They are Shaerhuda, Bahai and Sabusu, all of whom once worked in Zhang Jing of Ninggutang Gang. Shahuda, whose surname is Guarga, can be a good soldier. He was a unitary warrior during the founding of Nurhachi. In the tenth year of Shunzhi (1653), the first Ninggutang Tang Jing (Commander-in-Chief) became a famous general in the history of our country to resist foreign aggression. Ba Hai, newly appointed as Lu Niu Zhang Jing (deputy head), received a bachelor's degree from the Academy of Academician in the 14th year of Shunzhi (1657). In the 16th year of Shunzhi (1659), he succeeded his father, Zhang Jingsha erhugang, and was stationed in Ningguta (Old Town). In the first year of Kangxi (1662), Ning Guta Ang helped Beijing change its name to General Ning Guta, and Ba Hai succeeded him as the first General Ning Guta. During Ba Hai's tenure, he built a new town, built a post station, set up official villages, stored grain, strengthened armaments and fought against Russia, which wrote a very brilliant page in the history of Ningguta. During Ba Hai's tenure as the general of Ningguta, Russian bandits invaded the Heilongjiang River basin many times. Hearing the news, Bahai sent troops north, and with the cooperation of local people of all ethnic groups, ambushed the Russian army near Gufatan village, which dealt a heavy blow to the enemy. His anti-Russian meritorious service was awarded successively by Shunzhi and Kangxi. Another is Sabusu, who started from Ningguta and later became the first general in Heilongjiang Province. His family name is Fu Cha. He was born in Ningguta, near Huerha River (Mudanjiang). He once led the troops to gallop and lash the enemy, commanded warships to fight the storm, successfully commanded the Battle of Jacques, and interpreted an epic of defending the country with wit and resourcefulness. People still admire them when they talk about them.
four
Among the many memories brought by Ningguta, there is also a past full of blood and tears. In the Manchu Dynasty, which ruled China for more than 300 years from the Northeast Forest to the Central Plains, "Exiling Ningguta" was a synonym full of fear and death. After the Qing court made Beijing its capital, Ningguta area was identified as the land of Longxing, which was closed for a long time and became an area where thousands of miles of ice and snow flooded and tigers and wolves ran rampant. From the Shunzhi period, Ningguta became the receiving place of exiled criminals in the Qing court. Because the power struggle of the Qing court, the literary inquisition, the failure on the battlefield, the delay of the mission, the corruption of court officials and local officials, and even unnecessary crimes can all be sent to the wild land of Northeast China at the moment when this sentence still lingers. They are officials, literati, craftsmen, prisoners of war and even ordinary people. When they arrive at the remote and desolate Ningguta, they will bow down to the Lord Long En in the direction of the imperial court, and then trudge to an ill-fated journey in the biting wind and rain with splints and a cavity of humiliation and indignation. The road to Ningguta is high, the mountains are high, the water is steep, the peaks are dangerous, and the tigers and wolves are in trouble. Some of them died of illness during the journey, and some were swallowed by tigers. Those who are lucky enough to get to Ningguta will also be polished in ups and downs, from black hair to white hair, leaving only a little strength to survive. When we finally reach Ningguta after thousands of miles of hardships, everyone will burst into tears because of the experience of struggling from the edge of life and death.
Wu Zhaoqian, a celebrity in the south of the Yangtze River, should be an outstanding representative among many talents in Northeast China. He was born in a scholarly family, a noble family. When he was young, he was told a story because he was smart, knowledgeable and talented. According to legend, when he was nine years old, he wrote a thousand words of "Dan Fu", which shocked the whole village and spread his reputation to the court. In the 14th year of Shunzhi, Wu Zhaoqian took part in the rural examination of Nanwei and achieved good results. However, he was soon jailed for the case of Jiangnan Imperial Examination Hall, which shocked the ruling and opposition parties. Although the final "trial was ruthless", he was sentenced to be stationed in Ningguta on November 28, the fifteenth year of Shunzhi. Many friends came to see Wu Zhaoqian off before he left. Many friends didn't forget to say goodbye to poetry at this time. The most famous poem is Wu Meicun's poem, "Life in Wan Li Road is only charming. Why are you alone? " "Mountain is not a mountain, water is not water, life is not life, and death is not death." When you say goodbye, you cry with tears, and the listeners are all shocked by your sincerity.
Although, from a personal point of view, the immigrants of Ningguta have fallen into an inhuman situation and suffered unbearable pain, they have made indelible contributions to the development and construction of Ningguta area. According to historical records, Yue Yang, an immigrant, once spread farming techniques and construction methods to the local people and exchanged his possessions with the local people for fishery and animal husbandry products. At the same time, some immigrants with higher education level set up private schools here to spread culture and sow the seeds of civilization. The influx of refugees changed the primitive life of local people who lived by fishing and hunting. They learned to grow grain and tobacco leaves, and learned to collect ginseng and honey, which made agricultural farming develop by leaps and bounds. A group of people of insight took the mountains and rivers here in Ningguta as the object of investigation and left them to future generations in the form of words, which has become a rare wealth for us to study regional culture today. For example, Fang Gonggan's Gu Ning Tower, Gu Ning Tower Landscape, Vencent Yang's Liu Bian Tower, Wu's Gu Ning Tower, etc. These works are of great academic value. They are about the history, geography and literature of Northeast China.
Ningguta has become a history book, sealed in the deep bookshelf of the library, sealed in the misty rain and dust of Ningguta during that long time, and sealed in the memory that the older generation has gradually forgotten. Ningguta, with a history of more than 300 years, has witnessed your ups and downs, your vicissitudes of life, your grief and indignation, your sigh and your singing. Now that you are quiet, few people disturb your dreams. The dust of the years buried your beautiful image, and the wind and rain of time washed away your sadness. Under the gaze of the sun and the moon for 300 years, you have become unrecognizable like an old man who is stumbling.
Lonely Ningguta is in front of me, and I am crying for you.
I expect and believe that you will be young again.
Political and economic center.