Before analyzing the products, Yao Zhen briefly talked about venture capital. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) has excellent antioxidant capacity. Insisting on using it can brighten skin tone, delicate skin, promote collagen production and prevent skin aging. After years of application and research, the skin care efficacy of VC has been widely recognized.
However, vitamin C (ascorbic acid) has poor stability, is easily oxidized and decomposed, and has a short shelf life in aqueous solution. From the production point of view, after the storage period, when consumers really use it, there may be little left. Maybe you paid a high price and only bought a bunch of VC "corpses". Therefore, how to maintain the stability of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and extend the shelf life has always been a difficult problem for brands. Different brands have developed various technologies to increase the stability of VC.
There are many VC products on the market, and Yao Zhen chose five well-known and representative high-concentration essences. The product in the form of VC powder is not chosen because the dosage of VC powder is not well controlled, and excessive use will irritate the skin and cause sensitivity. But then again, the stability of VC powder is relatively high, and VC powder will be analyzed separately in the future.
1, Vichy active vitamin C repair ampoule essence
Content: 10ml price: 290 yuan.
Composition: ellipsis
Comments: Vichy, the essence of VC, seems to have been listed abroad for some time, and 20 18 is promoted in China, which is also a new product. It uses 15% vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and tocopherol (vitamin E), which is a classic combination. When VC is added to skin care products, it belongs to high concentration at 10-20%. When it exceeds 20%, it is very irritating and the effect will decrease. Therefore, few brands in cosmetics add more than 20% VC, which is actually unnecessary.
As we said before, VC has poor stability in aqueous solution and is easy to decompose and deteriorate. Antioxidants "pine bark extract and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone" are added to this Vichy essence to increase the stability of VC. These two antioxidant components can also play a whitening role. The appearance of new hesperidin dihydrochalcone is yellow, which can make this essence yellow without adding pigment. This can cover up the oxidation and yellowing of some VC during the shelf life, change the color of essence and affect sales.
In addition to antioxidants, reducing the water content of the essence can also prevent VC from being oxidized. However, the decrease of water content will increase the viscosity of the essence and make the skin feel worse. This essence added alcohol, ranking third. It is estimated that the addition amount is about 10%, and the addition amount is still relatively large. Alcohol can increase the refreshing feeling of essence, and it can also play an antiseptic role. This essence does not add conventional preservatives, and alcohol plays a very important role. Of course, the antibacterial ability of pine bark extract can not be ignored.
Alcohol can also dissolve sebum on the skin surface, open the skin absorption channel, promote the absorption of effective ingredients, and give full play to effective ingredients. However, it will also increase the irritation of the essence, especially for alcohol-sensitive skin. Use it with caution.
The PH value of high concentration VC is very low, and too low PH value will increase the irritation of essence. This essence is neutralized by adding a small amount of sodium hydroxide to adjust the PH value to the range that the skin can bear, but this will reduce the effect of the product. In the aspect of moisturizing, water-soluble humectants such as dipropylene glycol and hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid are added, which can meet the basic moisturizing needs of skin.
Generally speaking, this essence of Vichy is worth a try among many VC products, and the effect of brightening skin tone is obvious. Long-term use has the effects of whitening, eliminating yellowing and preventing skin aging. However, sensitive and fragile skin with thin stratum corneum and sensitive to alcohol should be used with caution.
2.MartiDerm's brilliance and brilliance essence
Content: 60ml price: 380 yuan
Composition: ellipsis
Comments: MartiDerm from Spain has created a "bottle wind" in China, with injection-molded packaging and high-concentration essence, which has captured the hearts of many consumers. The core components of this essence are 10%VC+5% ascorbic acid glucoside (AA2G)+3% proteoglycan, as well as cell lysate and retinol palmitate, the fermentation products of Schizosaccharomyces.
As can be seen from the core components, this essence is different from the customer base targeted by the previous Vichy model. Vichy's model mainly plays the role of VC. In addition to the core component VC, this essence is compounded with the derivative of VC "ascorbic acid glucoside", and the addition amount reaches 5%. In addition to moisturizing, 3% proteoglycan can also prevent skin aging.
Everyone should be familiar with the lysate produced by Schizosaccharomyces fermentation, which is the core component of Estee Lauder small brown bottle and Lancome small black bottle. It has the effects of delicate skin, brightening skin tone and preventing skin aging. In addition, the anti-wrinkle component retinol palmitate was added. This ampoule essence can not only brighten and refine the skin, but also prevent the skin from aging.
The concentration of VC is high, it is not neutralized, and the PH value is low. Some skin will feel tingling when using it. Adding a lot of proteoglycan and alcohol humectant has the advantage of good moisturizing effect, but the disadvantage is that the essence is a little sticky, which is more suitable for dry skin. Oily skin is only suitable for dry and cold seasons, and it is a little greasy in hot seasons, and it may also grow acne.
Generally speaking, this ampoule essence has a good effect in brightening skin tone, improving dullness and delicate skin, and can also prevent skin aging after long-term use. It is the essence of whitening and anti-aging. Ampoule packaging can maintain the activity of active ingredients to the maximum extent, but it is easy to be scratched when opening a bottle.
3. Clinique Vivid Vitamin C Repair Essence
Content: 34ml price: 580 yuan
Composition: ellipsis
Comments: Clinique uses 10% VC in this essence. More specifically, the VC in this essence is kept in a vacuum in the form of powder. When in use, you can press and mix with the essence, and use it up within 7 days, which can fully maintain the activity of VC. Compared with other VC powder products, the concentration has been prepared, and there will be no bad concentration control.
Except for 10% VC, other ingredients have a strong Estee Lauder flavor, which is worthy of being a group brand. Among many active ingredients, the largest addition is not VC, but the raw material combination of anti-aging ingredient "acetyl hexapeptide -8". In addition, a variety of peptide components were added.
As can be seen from the composition of this formula, although this essence takes VC as its selling point, its main efficacy appeal is anti-aging and skin aging prevention. So if you simply want to whiten and brighten your skin, it will be more appropriate to choose other VC products. If you want to prevent skin aging, you can consider this essence.
MartiDerm's rejuvenation essence also has anti-aging effect, but it is mainly whitening; Clinique is a high maintenance product, which mainly prevents skin aging and gives consideration to whitening effect. The short-term effect is not particularly obvious. In addition, in order to enhance the skin feeling, this essence adds a certain amount of polydimethylsiloxane, which has the disadvantage that some skin will rub mud after use.
4. Kiehl's Vitamin C Firming and Brightening Essence Emulsion
Content: 50ml price: 650 yuan.
Composition: ellipsis
Comments: VC is easily oxidized and decomposed in aqueous solution. In order to maintain the stability of VC, each brand has its own magical powers. This essence of Kiehl's is alcohol soluble. Propylene glycol is easy to use, and the whole essence does not add water. This technology can indeed fully maintain the stability of VC, but it also has obvious shortcomings. When high concentration of propylene glycol is applied to the skin, it will cause fever and the skin will feel sticky. Dry skin may be tolerable, but for oily skin, it is unbearable. If you can't get it, you will get acne and rash, which will lead to allergies.
This essence emulsion also adds a certain amount of "silicon" to make the skin feel smooth, but it is easy to rub mud, especially when there are many superimposed products, and it is easier to rub mud when there are powdered products superimposed in the later stage. Another disadvantage is that the stability of this essence needs to be improved and it is easy to form precipitation. Shake the bottle when using.
Aside from the above shortcomings, this essence is still effective in many VC products. The core components are 10.5%VC+2% ascorbic acid glucoside (AA2G) and a small amount of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid. Compared with various water-containing VC essences, it has high stability and is not easy to be oxidized and deteriorated. In the hands of consumers, VC is still active
Generally speaking, this essence has certain effect in brightening skin tone, eliminating dullness and improving dark yellow, and has whitening effect after long-term use. However, the shortcomings are also obvious. It's a little sticky, it will burn when used, and it may rub mud. Use with caution for oily skin in hot season.
5.Sherrico vitamin CE compound repair essence
Content: 30ml price: 1490 yuan.
Composition: ellipsis
Comments: This essence of Xiuli is unique among many VC essences. The core components are 15%VC+ 1%VE+0.5% ferulic acid and ***9 components. The formula is very simple and it is very expensive to sell.
However, it seems that such a simple ingredient is not made by patting the head, but the best combination after a lot of tests and experiments. As we know, the amount of VC added reaches 20%, which is the limit of the amount added in skin care products, no matter how big it is. Later, it was found in Duke University's laboratory that the combination of VC and VE would increase the effect a lot, but these two components were unstable. It was later found that ferulic acid can stabilize these two components.
Surprisingly, ferulic acid is also an easily oxidized component. But when these three ingredients are combined, the stability will double. It can be seen from this point that cosmetics are really not just a simple superposition of several effective ingredients, involving many aspects.
What is commendable is that after Xiulike discovered this combination, it added some necessary ingredients and launched this product. Unlike some brands that add hundreds of plant extracts to cover up the core components, all kinds of tall concepts are highly hyped, which makes consumers confused and don't know what is at work.
This essence has excellent antioxidant capacity, which can brighten skin tone, improve dull and yellow skin and prevent skin aging. But it also has the disadvantage of high VC concentration. Some skin has a tingling sensation, some feel very strong, and the moisturizing effect is average. Dry skin needs other products to moisturize, otherwise it may feel dry.
Although the stability of these three components has been improved a lot, they will still be oxidized and deteriorated after long-term storage. It should be used up as soon as possible after opening, and it is best to keep it in the refrigerator. If they become very yellow, they should not be used. Xiulike is also big-hearted. It is said that this essence should be packed in a vacuum bottle that is protected from light, but he still uses a transparent dropper bottle, which is not conducive to the stability of the active ingredients.
If you want to try VC products, you can try this essence. Xiulike has applied for a patent for this combination of ingredients, but there are still some small brands imitating it, and the price is much cheaper, but how effective it is, you have to experience it yourself! Yao Zhen has not done long-term comparative experiments, so he can't give reference. In fact, several raw materials of this essence are not expensive. The reason why it is so expensive may be to dilute the research and development expenses.
To sum up, these five VC essences are all added in high concentration, but the emphasis is different. You can choose the right product according to your skin condition and needs. However, it should be noted that no matter what kind of essence, it is not particularly gentle, and sensitive and fragile skin should be carefully selected. When using during the day, you should do a good job of sun protection. Otherwise, the VC coated on the face may turn yellow after oxidation, and the skin feels yellow. In fact, yellowing is only the oxidation of VC, and the skin will not turn yellow after deep cleaning! In addition, "Langshinidon Double Extraction Skin Rejuvenation Essence" is temporarily out of stock and is coordinating factory production. We'll let you know when it's on the shelves.
Yao Zhen, a cosmetic formulator, has been engaged in the beauty and skin care industry 15 years, advocating rational skin care and opposing buying with the wind. Share no less than 5 skin care articles every week. (mine ... is the bottom of the last article), which contains all my articles. If you have any skin care questions, please leave me a message and answer any questions. Welcome attention!