As an all-rounder in the cosmetics industry, Paula Begoun has paid more attention to cosmetics than Niu Er, known as Master China. Open her new book Take me to the cosmetics counter, and let's listen to how Paula reveals the truth and lies behind these beautiful skin care products.
First, pure natural.
This term implies that the ingredients of the product come from plants or organic matter, rather than artificial synthesis. The word "natural" seems to attract consumers' attention more, but natural ingredients can't guarantee the safety or effectiveness between products. The promotion of natural ingredients is not regulated by fda, so cosmetic companies can use these terms at will. These terms have very high marketing value, but they have no medical significance. In addition, there is no convincing research to prove that "natural ingredients" are more beneficial to the skin than synthetic ingredients. Moreover, after being added to cosmetics, plant extracts have basically lost their "naturalness" after being stabilized by antisepsis and mixed with other ingredients.
I noticed that the safety of natural ingredients is only relative. Some commonly used natural ingredients, such as mint and rosemary, have certain * * * properties, while lemon and lavender will cause different degrees of photosensitive reaction. In addition, the molecules of natural substances are relatively large and are not easily absorbed by the skin, which is why diy external application of fresh fruits and vegetables is difficult to ensure the effect.
Second, organic cosmetics
From June 5438+ 10, 2002, the United States Department of Agriculture (usda) began to label food as "organic". Organic food requires special certification. However, "organic" has nothing to do with cosmetics. In order to make their products stand out, cosmetic companies began to label their products as "organic". Some shampoos and moisturizers on the market are advertised as 70% organic products, because the main ingredient is water soaked in organic lavender leaves.
Note: At present, there is no relevant standard of organic cosmetics in China, and its positioning is not clear. The international certification standards of organic cosmetics are not uniform. The mainstream certification bodies are aco organic certification in Australia, eco, bio and bdih certification in Germany and nasaa certification in Australia, but these standards are different. For example, eco stipulates that the finished products of organic cosmetics must contain more than 5% of certified organic content, while bio requires more than 65,438+00%.
Third, low sensitivity or suitable for sensitive skin.
These two terms imply that consumers will not cause allergies, but this statement is meaningless. In fact, there is no regulatory standard for testing whether products can cause skin allergies. Any cosmetic company can use these two terms at will. Because there are no clear definitions and standards, cosmetics companies do not need research reports to confirm these terms.
Note: It is not difficult to find that some products are clearly advertised as suitable for sensitive skin, but they make skin allergic when used, precisely because some * * * or allergenic ingredients are added to the products.
Fourth, no alcohol.
Generally speaking, the product does not contain denatured alcohol, ordinary alcohol, methanol, benzyl alcohol, isopropanol or sd ethanol. These ingredients are similar to grain alcohol and have a strong drying and * * * effect on the skin. However, many cosmetics will add special "alcohol" ingredients, such as cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. The effects of these fatty alcohols on skin are completely different from those of grain alcohols. Generally speaking, the greater the content of * * * substance, the more obvious it is, but if grain alcohol is listed before and after the preservative at the end of the ingredient list, it will do less harm to the skin.
I note: Many people will take whether the product contains alcohol as the main basis for whether to use the product. In fact, many times, people misunderstand alcohol. Alcohol is a commonly used ingredient and is often used as a solvent in skin care products. It can stabilize the active ingredients of plants, clean cutin and help skin metabolism.
In addition, the ingredients in the ingredient list are generally arranged according to the content of the product from large to small, and the ingredients with high content will be ranked first, and the positions with less content will be further behind. (If some ingredients are active, these active substances will be ranked first, and then arranged in order of content).
Five, does not contain spices
Originally, this was used to tell consumers that the product does not contain essence or aromatic components, but in fact this is not necessarily the case. Many products use aromatic plant extracts, which may cause skin irritation, allergic reaction or phototoxic reaction (aggravating sun damage). Whether natural or synthetic, spices are not good for the skin. In addition, aromatic ingredients (such as aromatic vegetable oil or aromatic plant extracts) may also be added to "fragrance-free" cosmetics to cover up the unpleasant smell of other ingredients, so "fragrance-free" may also mean that the product has no obvious fragrance, but actually aromatic ingredients are added. In either case, because the word "odorless" is not stipulated by the fda, it is meaningless to list it on the product label. Finally, you should pay attention to the ingredient list of the product.
Note: Many mm's, especially those with sensitive skin, tend to choose skin care products without perfume, thinking that these products are relatively stable and suitable for sensitive muscles, but I don't know that many products actually add aromatic ingredients. The best way is to look at the product ingredient list.
Sixth, do not cause acne and acne.
These two terms are meaningless, because the fda cannot legally regulate the use of these terms, and any product can be promoted in this way. At present, we are still exploring and developing products that will not cause acne. It would be great if there are products that can fulfill the promise, but almost all cosmetic ingredients can cause someone's skin inflammation, and it is almost impossible to find out the "culprit" of skin problems from millions of ingredients.
I note: everyone's skin condition is different. A good product suitable for others may not achieve the same effect by itself. Therefore, I believe that no product can guarantee that all skin will not have skin problems when using it.
Seven, tested by dermatologists.
No matter how beautiful things are, as long as there is no reliable published data to prove them, "tested by dermatologists" only means that a doctor has used or seen others use a product and thinks it is ok, but it does not mean that the product is good, nor does it mean that it is better than similar products. It is an empty marketing language.
I note: in fact, this is just a marketing gimmick of the merchants. Products tested or recommended by dermatologists can only be said to be safer, but there is no guarantee that they will be better than other products.
Eight, confirmed by the laboratory
A laboratory sounds more scientific, but any place where research is done can be called a "laboratory". Uncover the "scientific packaging" of this term, and you will find that the so-called "experiment" is quite illogical. Experiments are often paid experiments paid in advance by cosmetics companies.
I note: In the same way, it's just a gimmick of the merchants.
Nine, patent secrets or patent components
In fact, there is no so-called "patent secret", and the concept itself is contradictory. The only way to "obtain" a patent is to "disclose" all the details of the product and use, and a patent does not represent the effect. Patent refers to the right to make certain ingredients or formulas, or the right to use existing ingredients or formulas in certain occasions (such as anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, exfoliation, etc.), regardless of the effect of ingredients or products.
I note: In fact, patents do not represent the quality or reliability of products, nor do they mean that these ingredients cannot be used by other companies for other purposes.
Essential oil
Hundreds of cosmetic companies say that the products are added with essential oil, which has a good skin care effect and can be used even for the most sensitive skin. If there are other big lies in the cosmetics industry besides magical anti-wrinkle products, it is the myth about essential oils. The research report in the Journal of Dermatology confirms that both natural and synthetic spices may cause skin problems. Any cosmetic company suggests using products containing volatile essential oils, such as rose oil, orange oil, pine oil and thyme oil, and thinks that these products are mild, beneficial or hypoallergenic, which will not only mislead consumers, but also cause harm to the skin.
Note: Many consumers think that aromatic essential oil has good skin care effect. In fact, all products are different from person to person. Moreover, some essential oil products can cause skin allergies or * * *, fragile or sensitive skin with caution.