Four aspects that should be paid attention to in the study of garment plate making
Among many consulting students, the questions involved are: "Why did I learn plate making from a famous teacher, but I couldn't find a job? As soon as I took the exam, the company felt that I didn't play well. How can I learn that it is different from what I use in actual work? " "Do you teach men's or women's clothing? Is it professional casual wear or fashion? Why do I learn, but I can only play professional clothes, not fashion? " "I really want to learn costume plate making, but I heard from many people that the students who just learned can't find a job, and the company must have experience. How did I hear that students who are still in Tianjin can work? " . All these problems can be summed up in the following four aspects. If we master these four aspects, all the problems will be solved.
Drawing technology: This is how we learn how to make clothes, sleeves, collars, trousers and skirts, and the size, proportion and balance of each part. This involves the plate-making method and prototype mentioned just now. At present, except for the old proportional cutting method, it is not suitable for industrial production and advanced customization in China. As long as the teacher is qualified, other plate-making methods have thoroughly studied one method. Students should have no problem learning this method well. Typing is like peeling oranges. There are many ways to peel it, but we still have the same three-dimensional shape when we put all its pieces together, so as long as we learn it well and meet the needs of the three-dimensional shape of clothing, there is no difference between good and bad. Some prototypes are secondary prototypes, others are tertiary prototypes, but we really have mastered a set of methods. After using them freely, we can save many steps, and the formula and proportion of the prototypes are kept in mind. When the application changes, it can be typed at one time, whether it is the second or the third time, which saves the auxiliary part of the prototype. For example, Japan's cultural prototype is a three-time prototype. At present, domestic scholars and beginners generally feel that cultural archetypes are not good enough to apply changes. This is because the books and teaching in China are not comprehensive enough at present, and these books and teaching have not solved the problem of looseness. Many people don't know how to use cultural archetypes. At present, some people in China have explored their own adjustment methods in the long-term application process, but these methods are only suitable for themselves, and it is difficult to form laws and systems and copy them. All these require the school to study its own teaching deeply. As students, they can't understand it when they first study, and they can only judge indirectly by knowing the work situation of the graduated students in this school. Many schools have finished teaching this step, but there is still a long way to go to master garment plate making and be competent.
Second, the relationship between plane and three-dimensional: that is, the law of modeling, whether it is plane plate making or three-dimensional cutting, is the conversion relationship between plane and three-dimensional. Clothing is the second skin of people, and clothing modeling solves the relationship between three-dimensional human body with many concave and convex surfaces and plane fabrics. Stereo cutting is a process of stereo plane adjustment, stereo correction and plane shaping. In fact, the flat prototype plate-making method we usually use is also three-dimensional and then flat, and the relationship between flat prototype and proportion is through a lot. Therefore, for the study of garment plate making, whether it is plane plate making or three-dimensional cutting, a lot of practice should be done. When learning plane, you must make real sample clothes, try them on after three-dimensional molding, and experience the position of each line on clothing and human body. What is the influence of subtle changes in lines on 3D modeling? These rules do not mean that you can record them after the teacher summarizes them. You must go through a lot of practice and summary before you can experience them more deeply and use them freely. After mastering the relationship between plane and three-dimensional, not only do prints of clothes, but also popular puppets (cats, dogs, rabbits, horses and other animals) can be published.
Third, the human body structure: because the human body is composed of many concave and convex surfaces, 1000 people have 1000 different human body characteristics, and the same person will also have asymmetry of left and right shoulders, chest, arms and legs. Therefore, for students studying fashion design and plate making, it is very important to understand the human body, measure it correctly (there are examples of correct measurement in the special lecture of Shangzhuang. com), and master the body characteristics of different regions and different age groups. At the same time, there should be methods in the study and practice of plate making. The first step of comprehensive training is to give a standard person, from tight to fit to semi-loose and then loose. This is the way to grasp the looseness of clothing, that is, the ability to grasp and control different styles and patterns with the same body shape and different looseness. The second step of comprehensive training is to give different people the same clothing style, exercise different physical characteristics and structures in different patterns and how to adjust the patterns according to the human body.
Aesthetic taste: the clothing structure should serve the design, a good printmaker should know the design, a designer should know the market, a printmaker should know the design, a model designer and a factory director should know the format, and conversely, a designer should know the format, and a printmaker should not only know the design, but also know the technology. Therefore, the training goal of fashion designers is to "understand". (In fact, this training goal is based on the current situation of domestic clothing learning. In fact, a complete clothing design teaching should include clothing plate making, and a complete clothing plate making teaching should include the study of basic skills of clothing design. At present, domestic colleges and universities also specialize in fashion design and fashion engineering, but neither design nor plate making is taught deeply. As for pattern learning and training, it is necessary to master the aesthetics of clothing. This is the third step of comprehensive mode training. Need to combine materials, techniques and clothing styles for training. Teachers should personally comment and adjust each student's homework, which is very demanding of teachers. Teachers should not only have excellent pattern technology, but also know the craft. The key is that teachers should understand design and understand the styles and fashion trends of various brands in the market. This can be close to the actual working methods of the clothing company (after the clothing brand company completes the sample clothes, the designer, brand manager or boss and sales manager usually make the adjustment method of the sample clothes and decide whether to put them into production, and the editor records the modification opinions on the side). In this way, the teacher also plays the role of designer, boss and sales manager in this process. Only by adjusting the sample clothes from this angle can students study in combination with the needs of the market and work. Besides, there should be some such exercises. Each student has to print more than 200 copies, make more than 50 pieces of/kloc-0 sample clothes, and personally see how the teacher adjusts and comments on the styles, how the design lines and structures change, and experience the aesthetics of the clothes. At the same time, students must also go to the shopping mall to look at the clothes of first-line brands, learn what to look at, learn to learn sleeves, increase their understanding of the styles and characteristics of first-line brands and big brands, and be very familiar with the modeling characteristics and styles of typical brands. Especially if the company you work for is a designer brand with complicated structure and division, it is not only the basic problem of drawing, but also very important to master the sense of quantity and clothing aesthetics. The so-called "loose is right or wrong", many complicated styles can only be made by combining plane and vertical cutting. In the words of a classmate who still works in Taobao's original brand women's wear, it is "patching the people's platform with the parts that are not fun on the plane".
To sum up the above four points, have all these problems been solved at the beginning? Of course, there will be many problems in specific learning, some of which are requirements for students, and some are requirements for teachers and schools. It is impossible to present them all here. For any technical study and employment, technology itself is not the most important. For students who have just learned to work, no matter how well they learn in school, they still have to learn and accumulate because of their limited experience. A week after graduation, a classmate called the teacher: "Teacher, my work is quite good, and my boss and designer agree with me, and the version I typed is more fashionable than those of those bosses." "Teacher, the boss is very satisfied with the version I shot. I offered a salary of 4,000 yuan, and he immediately agreed." "Teacher, don't worry, technology is not a problem." While the teacher was happy for them, he also had a lot on his mind, so he went out. 10 is a printmaker who has worked for five years. He prints 200 editions every year, and 10 prints 2000 editions. After at least five brand companies with different styles and ages, he came into contact with different trends in China fashion in recent years, and worked with designers with different personalities and sample clothes designers. No matter how good you study at school, you can only type more than 200 samples no matter how much you practice, and there are many more. Some students also called back after working for a few months and said, "I didn't have a sample dress before, like a classmate." I lack technical knowledge, so it is difficult for me to become a printmaker, and I have no confidence. " Some students go back to school to meet their teachers after working for a month or two, just like children who are bullied outside, criticizing the sample service department of the company for shouting and finding fault, and don't be discouraged when encountering difficulties. If there are any shortcomings, they should make up for them and make more efforts. Generally speaking, the company's sample clothing designers have more than ten years of technological experience, and their opinions are generally correct. Zeng Guofan said that "no matter which industry has a skill, people dare not ignore it easily", and skilled people are generally arrogant. It's normal to encounter some difficulties when you first start working. If they can easily reach the level of the boss and teacher, the technical content of printmakers' works is low and there is no need to learn. Low-tech jobs will soon be saturated. These hopes are helpful for garment plate-making learners and first-time employment.
Please refer to official website, Shangzhuang, Tianjin for some sample clothes.