Discover China's good craftsmanship.
The brocade robe is elegant and charming, and the spring breeze blows the willows to be enchanting.
Speaking of cheongsam, most people can't help but flash across Su Lizhen in In the Mood for Love.
In the play, Maggie Cheung showed the elegance and charming beauty of oriental women with 23 sets of cheongsam with different colors and styles.
I think every woman has a magnificent dream of cheongsam in her heart.
Stills of the movie In the Mood for Love
Cheongsam is beautiful, but it is also far away. The creation of a craftsman.
They show the uniqueness of cheongsam to the world with a needle and a thread, and only the creatures created will be creatures.
Chu Hongsheng is one of them. From 16 to 1999, he made more than 5000 cheongsam in his life.
From the beauty of the Republic of China to modern celebrities, from political circles to film and television circles, countless people fell in love with his craft and became his loyal fans.
Most of the growth of craftsmen is not achieved overnight.
Chu Hongsheng's success seems easy.
There may be thorns everywhere, but I still want to go.
20 17 years, Chu hongsheng was 99 years old. This nearly 100-year-old man has only done one thing since 16 years old-making cheongsam by hand.
/kloc-When he was 0/6 years old, Chu Hongsheng was sent to Shanghai by his parents from his hometown in Wujiang, Suzhou, and studied under Zhu Hanzhang, the most famous tailor in Shanghai at that time.
After only two years as an apprentice, he became famous for the cheongsam tailored for him by Hu Die, the winner of the film, and caused a sensation in the whole cheongsam circle.
At that time? In anyone's opinion, his success was too smooth. . But behind the success, what is hidden is his hard work as an apprentice? And heart.
Chuhongsheng studio
At that time, when the apprentice at the same time as Chu Hongsheng started to work, the master was still practicing basic skills, and Chu Hongsheng could only be anxious.
But in fact, it was the master who saw that he was a good material and was afraid that he would mistake "student interest" for "running a business"-treating others as a way to bring home the bacon, so it took him three years to smooth Chu Hongsheng's temper.
"At first, I was particularly unconvinced and went to the master theory angrily," Chu Hongsheng slowly recalled. "It was several years before I understood the painstaking efforts of the master. He told me not to be impatient and said that I would do better than them in the future. "
After Chu Hongsheng debuted, the master gave him an old Hermes-style tape measure, which was put around Chu Hongsheng's neck for 77 years.
1936? , did he receive it? His first big order as an apprentice was Hu Die, the winner? Customize a cheongsam. It was this command that completely changed his life trajectory.
At that time, Chu Hongsheng was innovative? Think about quarreling with the master? Hugh, he insisted on French lace instead of the original noodles? Such a novel and bold idea, if it fails at that time, may become the black spot of his cheongsam career forever.
He stands at the crossroads of life? Mouth? Regardless of Master Gu's opposition, make a decisive choice? An unconventional one? There may be thorns everywhere, but he still wants to go.
The unique cheongsam meets a beautiful and elegant beauty, and the two echo each other. Once it comes out, it will be affected. Everyone's pursuit. Some people feel: "The brilliance of Hu Die has not eclipsed the cheongsam."
Since then, Chu Hongsheng has gradually become famous? Even Soong Ching Ling put up with it? Ask him alive? Tailored.
The guest also changed from Hu Die to Soong Ching Ling? Gong Li and others, even Du invited him to do it at home.
Gradually, people began to call him "the man behind the ladies on the beach."
Cheongsam, she has her own personality.
In the next 80 years, he sewed countless hours into more than 5,000 gorgeous cheongsam.
Craft can never be accomplished overnight, and making cheongsam is no exception. The completion of a cheongsam must go through complicated steps, such as sewing, marking, scraping, rolling, sewing, rolling, measuring and proofing.
Today, with the development of science and technology, these tedious processes could have been replaced by machines, but Chu Hongsheng still insisted on making them by hand. Wavered.
He often said: "Cheongsam is like a person, not a hard machine. She is round and has personality, and only people can sew. " This is the insistence of a craftsman and traditional craft.
As a "master" tailor in Shanghai and even the whole country, he only said that he was just an "ordinary tailor" who made cheongsam. He prefers to bury himself in a pile of cloth and concentrate on studying cheongsam, rather than gaining fame.
He made cheongsam all his life, but he didn't open his own shop. Compared with money, he only has cheongsam in his eyes.
"I am a cheongsam maker. Now that I am too old to make cheongsam, I can only tailor it for others. I'm not hard, I'm not embarrassed, and I don't owe this life. This is my best state of life. "
In his view, cheongsam is the most beautiful and feminine dress in the world. No matter how time goes by, cheongsam will never go out of date.
Although he is very old, when it comes to his favorite cheongsam, Chu Hongsheng's eyes will still glow, just like a child who sees that he likes candy.
This nearly 100-year-old man, in this era of clothing proliferation, almost clung awkwardly and stubbornly, maintaining this needle and thread temperature.
His partner Zhou commented on him at the beginning of the new year: "He is a god-like person, and he can tell the size of the guests without too much. He is very pure, as if there is only cheongsam in his mind, and he was born for cheongsam. "
The last tailor on the beach became a swan song.
On the Spring Festival of 20 17, 99-year-old Chu Hongsheng died, and his cheongsam became a swan song.
Speaking of cheongsam, he has expressed his wish more than once, that is, "one day, cheongsam can return to the daily clothes of women in China."
Unfortunately, he didn't see this day. What's more, with the departure of the master, an era of clothing fragrance and shadow is over.
Cheongsam is no longer the glory of yesterday, and it is difficult for us to meet a woman wearing cheongsam, walking in the ordinary alleys of the city, and the scenery is moving.
The cheongsam craftsman who witnessed the ups and downs of cheongsam and the aesthetic changes of oriental women passed away with the protection of tradition and the expectation of the future.
Until the end, he still sticks to his cheongsam, that is, the charm flowing on women, which is a delicate balance between implication and personality.
Under the influence of today's fast food culture, countless craftsmen are submerged by the torrent of history, countless crafts are impacted by modern crafts, and countless traditional crafts slowly disappear in the long river of history. Is that so? Is it the sorrow of China culture?
I only hope that the world will one day slow down and look at the craftsmen behind the scenes, look at the lost art and carry it forward.
Fashion comes and goes, but what remains unchanged is the experience of craftsmanship.
Craftsmen are old and clever.