Yanbian Sanwei Prose

I always wanted to curl up in time, find a pure land and put my heart in a flowing life. Now, trying to put pen to paper from the hard dusty soil, I suddenly realized that the university is not a harbor, but more like a post station, welcoming and sending, recording people and things from station to station.

It is fate that we met at this station.

In this campus, there are many vagrants, who pack their bags and stay away from home to study in this strange city. They will always miss their hometown, distant places, familiar people, familiar things, familiar streets and familiar voices. But, ah, since I was eager to grow up when I filled in my volunteers, don't live up to my little courage and initial persistence.

In Lindong, in the canteen, I can't help eating several times, even though I dare not taste them one by one. Looking at my roommate's expectation, I made a "awesome" expression and praised him: "Yes, yes, it's really good." So I miss my hometown and recall the food in my hometown. Left five years ago, but raised for more than ten years-Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture.

In this double holiday of 1 October1Sunday and Mid-Autumn Festival, I will briefly introduce three kinds of delicious food in Yanbian, so as to arouse your appetite and let the wanderers who go home eat more delicious food from their hometown. Let my friends who haven't returned home indulge in some nostalgia for the past and comfort my broken heart, just like me.

Yanbian Yiwei-Yanbian barbecue

There are not many Tumen streets, and there are only a few main roads. There is no so-called traffic jam here, because there are fewer natives and fewer cars.

Tumen said it was a city, but it was actually a small town. Because it is located at the national border and separated from North Korea by a river, it was given the title of municipal government. Tumen street, if there is no car, should be very quiet, and the "rustling" sound of the wind blowing leaves will make people feel very comfortable and cool. However, when you walk into the street, you walk into another dirt gate, as if the noise that the city should have been brought here by something. This is Tumen's "sleepless street".

There are three main entrances and exits in Chuanjie, most of which are repeat customers or familiar passers-by. If you come here from other places, it's better to have a rainy day. After searching for a long time from the alley, I accidentally bumped into Chuan Street. No matter how good your psychological quality is, I'm afraid you can't help but say "Wow!"

You will be shocked by the unique eating habits in Northeast China, especially the sentimental people. They don't understand how people bring up their enthusiasm. On such a dark and humid day, their faces are shiny and full of energy. However, when tourists walk into the streets, they can smell the exciting sour smell of barbecue, the glaciers and Harbin beer, which are the specialties of Northeast China, appreciate the beauty of ancient Korean architecture, and see the word "string" every eight meters, so they can thoroughly appreciate the magic of "night-burning agent". When I was ten years old, I bumped into Tumen. Now I think about it, it's like going from depression to satisfaction, which makes you unconsciously believe that everything will be fine.

The charm of Yanbian barbecue is unpredictable. Maybe you just had a full meal and are wearing headphones and walking leisurely in a small street. Suddenly, you smell the sour cumin that makes your tongue nervous. Within eight steps, you will turn around and find out. Maybe you and your classmates are walking side by side, talking and laughing. Suddenly, your classmate's body is stiff, his eyes are dull, and his steps can't move any more. Don't be surprised. He just saw the unique and elegant Yanbian barbecue.

Shiny kebabs are placed on orange charcoal, and iron is placed on the grill. Oil drops as big as beans fell down, and with a bang, the flames burst, and a heat wave ran straight through the kebabs, nourishing the shine. With Korean special sauce, it is sour, sweet and spicy, challenging the taste limit. Take a bite, lean meat is tender and rotten, fragrant and pure, chew it carefully, taste first-class, leave fragrance in your mouth, fat meat is oily but not greasy, fragrant but not thick, soft but not depressed, and another bottle of cold beer, alas! I can't bear to describe it. Although I am not a "foodie", whenever I think of that scene, I always unconsciously drop my tongue and swallow my saliva.

Yanbian barbecue has a unique tradition. Except for the barbecue sold by the roadside, all the kebabs are baked by customers themselves. No matter whether the kebab shop you go to is big or small, expensive or cheap, remote or prosperous, you or your' friends' should show their talents. The store will spread the sauce first, then prepare dip for the guests, and the rest is to add red-hot charcoal to the oven in the middle of each barbecue table. If you really don't know anything about barbecue, kindly tell the store that when the employees are not busy and there are not many guests, someone will personally teach you how to barbecue. Actually, kebabs are very simple. Control the speed of dripping oil, make the heat as uniform as possible, turn the mutton string over in time, and try to see if it is cooked. For me, it is impossible to tell whether it is ripe or not. Unless it's burnt, I'm sure it's cooked.

No matter whether it is authentic or not, as long as it is a chain store in Tumen City, no barbecue table is flat. Barbecue shops, like hot pot restaurants, have their own special barbecue tables with different standards. Barbecue tables vary from store to store. Most of the small shops are iron square tables, which are as big as ordinary dining tables. There is a rectangular hole in the middle, which is blocked by barbed wire the thickness of chopsticks. There is a grill on it, and the same wire product is not high. In order to ensure the temperature and feel. Each square table has two floors, like a student's desk hall, except that the four corners are connected by table legs and there is no table wall. Below the hole in the middle is an iron box, which is supported on the desktop on the second floor and contains a heat source. Generally, when employees of such chain stores add charcoal, they will add: "Watch your child and don't let him touch the iron box below." The barbecue tables in high-end chain stores will be more diverse and safe. There are hexagonal tables and square tables in styles, only the barbecue place inside is silver-white iron products, while the outside circle is thick and dark wood, and the surface of the wood is coated with fireproof media, which not only feels smooth and solid, but also looks antique, exquisite and elegant.

No matter how elegant the dining environment is, it is for outsiders to see. As a semi-local who grew up in Tumen, the chain stores I learned have always been very lively and fragrant all night. There are many big shops and small shops in Tumen, and the names of the shops are almost all Korean and Korean. The famous big store has two or three floors, so you need to make an appointment in advance. No matter Han people or Korean people, it is indispensable to drink in a big bowl, eat meat and laugh loudly.

Two flavors of Yanbian Korean spicy cabbage

Spicy cabbage is a kind of kimchi, white and orange, with dark green leaves at the front. When you taste the root, it creaks. The unique sweet and salty juice and taste at the lower end of the cabbage make your throat tighten and saliva gush up directly. The slight spicy feeling and the sour taste of the special marinade immediately make you want to chew the first bite, and there will be a sense of shock and happiness when chewing. For me, there will be a sense of nostalgia and belonging.

Korean spicy cabbage, as a Korean folk dish, is indispensable for almost every meal in Korean families. Whether it is vegetarian tea or wine and delicacies, it is inseparable from spicy cabbage to accompany meals. Take a few slices from the salting pot, put them in a few delicate small porcelain butterflies, and then spread them on the edge of the dining table. Eye-catching orange, coupled with the unique refreshing feeling of Chinese cabbage, perfectly embodies the word "fresh" from the visual and olfactory aspects.

In the early morning of summer in the village, the distant mountains are foggy and the fields are boundless. Shan Ye junction, can't tell the boundaries, can't tell the difference between Yin and Ming. Cui Furen closed the door gently, for fear of disturbing his sleeping grandson, bent 90 degrees, and his face was still kind. With the morning sun on her back, she staggered to pick cabbage in the garden under the shadow of the mottled fence. Cabbage has its own merits. Cui Furen half squints, and his upper and lower eyelids are wrinkled in the egg-yellow morning light. She is trying to choose a few fresh, mature and moderate-sized cabbages, because that kind of cabbage is the best, freshest and most appetizing pickled spicy cabbage in the hands of real fresh old people, and it is also the best destination for those old people whose faces are as white as jade and squatting in the hot summer sun.

Mrs Cui washed the cabbage. This water is a clear spring on the mountain. Crispy and delicious. Cui Furen's hands are full of wrinkles, but the knife is as steady as water. She cleanly cut off the root of the cabbage, split it in the middle, cut it into four parts, and finally cut it with a horizontal knife. "bang!" The sound of the kitchen knife touching the chopping board was crisp, which made the sleeping grandson pout.

Cut cabbage should be put in a jar, preferably a clay jar, not too big or too small, with a slightly fat middle and a bowl-shaped lid. There is burnt fragrant clay inside, smooth as a mirror outside, and thousands of years of ups and downs are hidden in dark brown. Mrs Cui sprinkled salt into the jar, and her hand touched her arm, and her arm touched her arm, and her arm led her waist, moving back and forth from left to right, slowly and safely. Sprinkle with salt, and the bowl-shaped jar cover is lightly buckled, which is crispy. On this day, the work of pickling spicy cabbage, with the clouds in the distant mountains dissipating, the sunrise at the top of the village and the desolation of the grandson, quietly ended. Mrs Cui got up to wash rice and began to pray for this day's life.

The next day, the sunset dragged the shadow of the whole village for a long time. The village is like a travel-stained passer-by walking slowly towards the sunset. In the meantime, a lot of things were lost, which became the color of the earth and was involved in the torrent of history. But I know that many things can't be lost, such as pastoral flavor, such as Korean spicy cabbage.

Mrs Cui took out the cabbage and washed it with water to remove the excess salt. Apples and pears have been fried into juice and poured into the jar. Radish shreds, garlic, ginger and the light obliquely hitting the chopping board through doors and windows are mixed together in the sound of countless knives, and time seems to have solidified. In a trance, you can still smell the wine. Add Chili noodles and sugar to the chopped materials, then carefully smear them on the cabbage and put the cabbage back in the jar. This time, the jar cover is calm and practical. At dusk, the last cloud on the horizon burned out, the mountain shadow enveloped the whole village, the smoke curled up, the lights were everywhere, and the world was full of expectations.

When I was a child, I ate a small dish of spicy cabbage, and I could eat two bowls even if I didn't have any extra dishes. Grandpa came back from Gua Tian, with half-white hair, cleaned up, leaned on the kang, watched a wonderful game with a small glass of white wine and a small dish of spicy cabbage, and occasionally a cool breeze blew outside the window. Seeing his intoxicated appearance, he really thinks this game is a living fairy!

The year before last, I rushed back to Tumen from Harbin to have a New Year's Eve dinner. There was a big table of delicacies, but I didn't see the spicy cabbage when I was a child. I asked my mother, "Why is there no spicy cabbage?" Mother didn't even look at me. She smiled and said, "I think you look like spicy cabbage." Now several companies are still pickling that thing and buying it. " I couldn't help laughing and felt a little disappointed. This summer vacation, my parents who bought a house in Harbin said they would sell Tumen's house and may never go back. Hearing this, my heart hurts inexplicably, as if something had been broken or faded.

Yanbian Sanwei-Yanbian cold noodles

Cold noodles are the most common kind of noodles. In summer, "cold noodles" dishes can be found almost everywhere in big cities and towns, streets and alleys, regardless of north and south, regardless of things. However, if the word "Yanbian" is added to the cold noodles, the cold noodles will no longer be widely distributed and eaten miscellaneous pasta, but a traditional food with unique Yanbian characteristics.

Yanbian, namely Yanbian Korean Autonomous Region. Cold noodles are a traditional Korean food, made of buckwheat noodles or wheat noodles (also corn noodles, sorghum rice noodles and elm bark noodles). Koreans have a tradition of eating cold noodles at noon on the fourth day of the first month or on their birthdays. According to folklore, eating slender cold noodles on this day will bode well for longevity, so cold noodles are also called "longevity noodles".

When I was young, my mother took me to Yanji to see a doctor. It was also summer, and the sun was scorching, so I didn't want to look up when I walked. So I held my mother's hand with my head down and went up two or three steps. I just feel cold around. Looking up, I have walked into an authentic Yanbian cold noodle shop. What is the charm of Yanbian cold noodles? When the shop assistant brought me a big bowl of cold noodles, my mouth almost watered. First of all, color. In the past, the cold noodles cooked by my mother at home were all white, and the cold noodles in Yanbian used buckwheat noodles, which were purple. Followed by aroma, noodles, the noodles pressed by the guests after ordering are fresh, and the coolness that comes to the face and is wrapped in sour and sweet taste is refreshing only when inhaled into the nose. After the noodles are imported, I have never experienced the feeling of being flexible and chewy, cool and light, blending soup and water, and moistening my throat. Among them, spicy and salty with sweet and sour, can make saliva immediate. The only thing that annoys me is that eating Yanbian cold noodles is absolutely urgent. You need to bite off all the noodles in your mouth until there are no noodles outside your mouth, and then swallow them, otherwise the cold noodles will be half in your stomach and half in your mouth. Oh, it's really uncomfortable.

Let's talk about cold noodle soup. The soup is taken out of the refrigerator. Add cold fabrics and side dishes, and take a sip to cool off the heat, which will greatly increase your appetite. Yanbian cold noodles have two unique side dishes, one is beef, the other is kimchi, and eggs are generally available, so I won't mention them here. Dried beef is flaky, soaked in cold noodle soup, moist and refreshing, salty and fragrant when bitten, rotten and fragrant with a long aftertaste. Kimchi is different from spicy cabbage, and its main feature is "spicy". The more spicy you eat, the more you like to eat and sweat at the tip of your nose. It is said that it can give people mellow enjoyment. However, I can't eat spicy food, so I haven't experienced it.

When I was in Wuchang High School, I saw a piece of paper posted on the door of a restaurant in the street, which read "Yanbian cold noodles are on the market". So I sat in the shop and asked for a cold noodle. Seeing the pale noodles and monotonous side dishes, my first thought was "cheated". I bowed my head and took a sip of cold noodle soup. It's cool enough, but it's too sour and a little sweet, but it's not as delicious as cucumber. The only smell comes from the whole parsley, which is close to the smell and pungent enough.

Cold noodles, soft but not tough, will be brittle as long as you take a sip with your lips, and there seems to be no feeling of chewing. So I thought in my heart, "He knows the dew will be frost tonight, and how bright the moonlight is at home!" " Feeling. A feeling of homesickness gushed out from the tip of the tongue, washing the taste buds over and over again, stimulating the lacrimal gland, affecting the heartbeat, and trapping yourself in a certain feeling in the past.

"ah! You are so stupid! " The girl who came with me stretched out her arms and dangled in front of my eyes, revealing a trace of incomprehension and anger.

An elder once said that writing homesickness should reflect local flavor and local accent. Now that I think about it, I think we should add a little pastoral flavor. Local flavor lingers in vision and touch, local accent blends into hearing, and local flavor permeates into smell and taste. These three points echo each other from a distance, precipitate and brew, stir-fry the platter, and finally present the dish that is fragrant, refreshing and desolate all over the world, with a lingering aftertaste-homesickness.

Today I'm talking about eating and the taste of my hometown, but I'm very calm now. For me, homesickness is often just a moment. A scene, a person, an event or a dish may be the medium of my homesickness. Even in the dead of night, when I can't sleep in bed, my childhood playmates or childish confessions will suddenly ring. However, maybe I answered Su Shi's sentence "This peaceful place is my hometown". Accompanied by my parents in Beijing and teachers and classmates in Lin Dong. I am a wanderer from all over the world. I asked the teacher, why should we be sentimental when we meet here?

We can plant our hometown in our hearts, where we can bury our past corners of time, or we can embed our homesickness into our souls and become our unchanging way of life with our initial intentions.

Say something extra. I have been thinking that one day, I will try all the delicious foods in China and then go abroad to explain the flavor of China cuisine to foreigners. The idea is beautiful enough, but it is also futile.