How long does it take for diesel fuel to melt when frozen?

Once the diesel road is "frozen", it is really difficult to melt it by itself. Unless the ambient temperature is above zero, it will be difficult to melt by itself if the ambient temperature is always below zero.

Friends who have never driven a diesel car have a hard time understanding “frozen cars”. A frozen car is actually caused by the diesel oil in the oil line clogging the pipeline due to low-temperature wax formation. After the pipe is blocked, the diesel cannot flow, the high-pressure pump cannot pump the injector or inject fuel, and the engine cannot start. This is absolutely impossible for gasoline cars, because gasoline will not condense and wax due to low temperatures. Unlike gasoline, diesel has an indicator: freezing point! The freezing point is the highest temperature at which diesel fuel loses fluidity at low temperatures. Different grades of diesel should be selected under different ambient temperatures:

After entering winter, the temperature continues to drop. If high-grade diesel cannot be replaced in time, the diesel will lose fluidity after condensation. At this time, the diesel in the oil pipes, elbows, filters, and filter elements will be waxed, making it impossible to start the vehicle.

After diesel oil is condensed and waxed, it looks like "ice blockage". Condensed diesel fuel in the pipes is either removed and manually cleaned, or the pipes are heated in some way. After the diesel temperature rises, the condensed diesel will regain fluidity and the ice blockage will naturally open!

Let’s look at diesel trends so we can know how to clean pipes. Whether it is electronic injection or direct injection, the oil circuit and structure are basically the same, and it is relatively easier to clean the pipes with direct injection.

After the diesel is sucked out of the fuel tank, it is filtered by the filter element and then supplied to the high-pressure fuel pump. The high-pressure oil pump outputs the pressurized diesel to the nozzle, and the nozzle injects the diesel into the cylinder. The engine can only run when the fuel supply is available. If wax deposits and ice blockage occur, consider heating the tank. When the temperature of the diesel in the tank rises, consider draining the diesel and adding high-grade diesel. If the diesel in the tank has been waxed, there will definitely be ice blockage in the pipes. At this time, don't be afraid of trouble and start cleaning from the fuel tank suction riser.

There is a hollow screw on the riser. When removed, it can act like a fuel tank and blow air into the riser. If the tank is heated, the standpipe will not clog. Just clean the cannulated screws. The other end of the oil pipe is connected to the diesel filter element. Basically, the floating ice in the pipe can be blown out by dismantling the pipe and blowing air, or it can also be taken out indoors and melted. The focus is on the diesel filter element. If there is a new filter element after the filter element is removed, it can be replaced directly.

If there is no new filter element, it can be used after the indoor temperature rises and the diesel is poured out. Pay attention to the ice blockage caused by wax deposition in the oil circuit of the filter element base. Hot water filling can be used to heat the filter base to clear ice blockage. Of course, the hollow screws and filter should also be cleaned. Along the pipe, you can see another diesel filter element (fine filter), which can be cleaned in the same way. The pipeline between the filter element and the high-pressure pump should also be dismantled and processed. Pay attention to each hollow screw and clean the small filter.

The high-pressure oil line output by the high-pressure pump can be directly poured with hot water without disassembly. The ice flakes in the pipe will melt, and the nozzle can also be used. After the high-pressure pipeline returns to normal, the engine can start normally.

How to heat the fuel tank halfway?

When the car breaks down midway, most of the oil lines will not freeze too much. As long as the diesel in the tank is heated and the oil line is simply drained, the vehicle can continue to drive for a period of time, or it can be replaced with high-grade engine oil. If there is still a lot of diesel in the tank, you can buy an anticoagulant and add it to the diesel. In extreme cases, a certain proportion of gasoline can even be added for anticoagulation. Halfway through the heating of the fuel tank, we can only use the most primitive method: fire attack!

This is almost an essential skill for veteran drivers, who use dry wood to light a fire under the fuel tank. The flame should be smaller. Attacking slowly with low heat is safe and will prevent the tank from blowing paint. If you don't have dry firewood, you can use a blowtorch to bake the fuel tank. Of course, don't bake it in one place for too long. You should change places in time to avoid local overheating.

When baking the fuel tank, be careful not to use an open flame to bake the diesel pipe. Diesel pipes can burst when exposed to fire, potentially causing fires or new failure points. A few days ago, I saw an old driver heating diesel fuel quickly:

This is more dangerous. Once it heats up quickly and breaks down, diesel fuel is a fire hazard.

The risk index is too high, not recommended!

In fact, there are many ways to prevent oil condensation and blockage in winter. The easiest way is to replace high-grade diesel in time. But in many cases, a sudden drop in temperature can catch you off guard, or you can get stuck in a pit of substandard diesel fuel, causing pipes to freeze and become clogged. To prevent these accidents, electronic heating devices can be installed on the pipes and filter bowls.

After the car is started, the resistance wire in the pipe starts to work, and the resistance wire outside the filter cup also starts to work, which can effectively prevent diesel wax from forming. Some long-haul trucks also burn No. 0 diesel in winter to improve fuel economy.

The specific method is to install fuel tank heating and auxiliary fuel tanks. The fuel tank is heated by the residual temperature of the engine. Antifreeze is used to heat the fuel tank, and a "heating core" is placed inside the fuel tank. The heating core works on the same principle as the small water tank in the heater. High-temperature antifreeze flows through the heating core, and the temperature is absorbed by the diesel fuel. Diesel oil always remains close to the temperature of antifreeze, so No. 0 diesel oil will not wax in an environment of minus 30 degrees.

Of course, this heating device can only be used after the engine water temperature rises, and diesel fuel is required when the vehicle is started. The negative diesel is placed in a small fuel tank. Switch the diesel to the small tank before the vehicle shuts down every day, so that the pipeline is filled with negative diesel to avoid wax accumulation and make it easier to start the next day. When the water temperature rises after starting, the temperature of No. 0 diesel will also rise. At this time, you can switch to the No. 0 fuel tank, so that as long as the vehicle does not stall, you can always use No. 0 fuel.

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