Pleats
(1) Don’t ignore the silk threads of the fabric
The so-called pleat processing is to use high temperature and high pressure to press pleats, and can make Pleats are preserved semi-permanently.
Since high temperature and high pressure are used, if the strands of fabric are curved, the pressed pleats will also be curved, and the product will be deformed.
Usually, the fabric production process is to weave horizontal silk strands into vertical silk strands to make a gray cloth, and then dye and finish the fabric. Usually, the silk strands are bent during the final finishing process.
The allowable range of the curvature of silk strands is 3% (if the width is 150cm, it is 4.5cm). If it is within this range, our company can perform pleating processing.
(2) Cutting of pleated products
A. Generally, the longitudinal strands of most fabrics are used, which can reduce the damage caused by the bending of the strands. Influence. The so-called taking the longitudinal silk locks means taking the longitudinal direction as the length of the body. If you are cutting a skirt, there are three methods: cut two pieces lengthwise, cut one piece lengthwise and then take half, or cut one piece and then take one-third.
B. If the silk strands are normal, they can also be cut horizontally.
C. Right-angle cutting
The representative product is the accordion-pleated skirt. When the hem of the skirt is stretched out, it is very gorgeous and elegant.
When cutting, take the 45-degree position of the right-angled edge as the center, and use the vertical and horizontal silk strands as the two sides.
However, there is also the choice of fabric. Fabrics that are too soft cannot be used. The reason is that the fabric itself has good stretch properties, which will cause the pressed pleats to bend and deform.
* Due to the stretchability of the product itself, the pleats at the front and rear centers will be elongated (the body length will become longer), and the surrounding pleats will be bent to both sides.
Using the following method, you can roughly determine whether the fabric can be processed by cutting at right angles.
A. Cut the fabric into a size of 100cm X 100cm, and then measure its diagonal size.
B. Lift up a corner of the fabric.
C. Then measure its diagonal size.
D. Compare the measurement results of A and C.
E. If the comparison result differs by more than 5cm, the pressed pleats will bend.
If it is produced when it is known in advance that there will be a slight bend, we recommend that the processing of the bottom edge should be left to the end. (Copy and curling)
(3) Materials that can be used for pleating processing and materials that cannot be processed
As introduced in (1), pleating processing is to use High temperature and pressure, as well as the characteristics of the fabric, are used for processing. This property is thermoplasticity. Thermoplasticity refers to the characteristic that a solid becomes soft after being heated and can be easily deformed with some external force. After cooling, the shape is fixed.
Synthetic fibers with this characteristic include polyester and resin, or blends containing at least 65% of the above ingredients.
On the contrary, materials that do not have this characteristic are so-called natural materials. Animal fibers such as wool and silk, plant fibers such as cotton and linen, rayon (regenerated fiber), nylon (heat-resistant), etc.
However, woolen fabrics are an exception and can be processed by the SIROSET processing method.
The above is only part of the situation. In actual operations, customers are generally required to provide about 1 meter of fabric for experiments to determine whether the fabric is usable.
AC pleats (accordion type, making skirts)
(1) Full circle (PT-80) 54 pleats (front) + 54 pleats (back) = 108 pleats
The mold is 100cm long
Start from the center of the circle and cut it according to the waist and body length. The body length should include the allowance for sewing of the waist, the allowance for curling and overlapping.
The front and rear center lines are horizontal silk tufts, and the two sides are vertical silk tufts.
Usually the distance from the center of the circle to the waistline is 15 or 16cm, so if it is a 150cm piece of fabric, the minimum amount is 59+59+16+16=150cm, and the rolled edge part Lose 5cm, leaving 54cm (finished product length is 52cm). If the maximum amount is used, the body length can be 95cm.
The amount of fabric used for belts and other accessories must be determined using cutting paper.
(2) Semicircle
The number of pleats is as follows:
24 pleats (12 pleats + 12 pleats)
28 Pleats (14 pleats + 14 pleats)
32 pleats (16 pleats + 16 pleats)
52 pleats (26 pleats + 26 pleats)
The above is 2 The amount of fabric used for the body part of a skirt
The amount of fabric used for belts and other accessories must be determined with cutting paper.
(3) Straight AC
The pleat widths are: 1.0cm, 1.3cm, 2.0cm, 3.0cm.
Since the pleat widths at the waist, hips, and bottom are all the same, the smaller the pleat width, the better.
The cutting should be done along the horizontal lines of silk.
The usual cutting method is as shown in the picture, cut 6 pieces to make 5 strips (the bottom edge is about 180cm).
Partial pleating
The pleat type often used for partial pleating is a combination of three types: SP, BOXP, and ACP.
For example:
Features of hand-pressed pleating:
Its features are like hand-folded paper, it can fold out the shape you imagine, but , the width of the pleats cannot be less than 1cm (because the paper used is harder). The paper used is traditional Japanese handmade Japanese paper, which can withstand high temperature, high pressure and high humidity. The final product can maintain its original feel.
1. Pleating processing
is to pleat the fabric. Generally this technique is used on skirts, women's tops and decorative fabrics. Its use dates back to ancient Egyptian times. At that time, pleating technology had begun to be used in women's clothing. After World War II, with the emergence of synthetic fibers, pleating processing technology developed rapidly. That’s because pleats made from synthetic fibers are durable and widely accepted in society.
2. Pleating knitted fabric
Pleating can be performed on all fiber products. However, for linen, cotton, silk or rayon, the pleats after processing will quickly disappear in the water, so the shape of the pleats can only be temporarily maintained. In contrast, synthetic fibers made of polyester or resin, or blended fabrics containing at least 65% synthetic fibers, can permanently maintain their pleated shape due to their thermoplasticity. Also, if it is wool, adding some special chemicals can keep the pleats permanent. Recently, new processing methods are being developed that do not use chemicals or allow pleats on linen, cotton, silk, or rayon that have no thermoplasticity to remain unchanged forever.
l Thermoplasticity The property that a solid softens after being heated and its shape can be easily changed by external force, and that its shape remains unchanged after cooling, is called thermoplasticity.
3. Methods for processing pleats
There are three methods for processing pleats:
①Ironing method: Iron one by one with an iron.
②Machine pleating method is a method of pleating fabrics using specialized machinery and equipment.
③The manual pleating processing method uses two special pleat setting papers to make the shape of the pleats by hand, then put the cut fabric between the two setting papers and fold them smoothly. Fold the styling paper along the pleat pattern. Using this method, various pleats can be made, such as fan-shaped and accordion-shaped pleats.
4. Types of pleats
There are three basic types: ① flat type ② box type ③ accordion type. If they are combined and used, many types of pleats can be made (see example ④). There are also many other types derived from them, such as wavy type, cigarette type, irregular type, etc.
5. Process diagram of pleating processing
(Test) Spray
Fabric-----cutting-----finishing-----sewing-----pleating -----Steam heating-----drying-----take out
(setting paper)
-----Classification-----Repair- ----Inspection-----Packaging-----Semi-finished products-----Sewing process-----Finished products
6. SI-RO-SET processing method
p>If you add appropriate temperature, humidity, and pressure to wool, and spend a little time, it can maintain a certain shape. If some special chemicals are added to it, the shape can be maintained permanently. This processing method is called SI-RO-SET processing method. Therefore, if wool is treated with drugs in advance, it can be pleated in various ways just like synthetic fibers.
* SI-RO-SET is a product researched and developed by Australia's Commonwealth Scientific and Research Oranization (Commonwealth Scientific and Research Oranization), and is named after the first letter of the institution's English name.
7. The principle of processing
We probably all have experience in this area. After getting up in the morning, we find that our hair is messy, so we use a hot towel to comb it. The principle it uses is to use warm water to slightly cut off the molecular structure of hair, and then let them recombine into a new molecular structure at a new position (cutting side chains - recombination). The molecular structure of wool fiber is composed of molecules bonded together through side chains, using hydrogen molecule bonding, sodium salt molecule bonding, and cystine molecule bonding. The combination of hydrogen molecules and sodium salt molecules can be decomposed under the action of steam, while the combination of cystine molecules requires the help of high-pressure steam or drugs. The processing principle of SI-RO-SET is to cut off the cystine molecules and use the pressure generated during pleating to recombine them in a new position so that the pleats are fixed and not deformed.
8. Illustration of SI- RO-SET processing principle
① As shown in the figure, the three molecular chains a, b, and c are connected by four side chains P, Q, R, and S.
② Now assume that during pleating processing, the b molecule is stretched upward (h direction), and other molecular chains combined together will produce a force in the opposite direction (i direction) , making this molecular combination in a very unstable state.
③ Use some method to cut off the horizontal molecular links, so as to reduce the force in the opposite direction and keep the molecular combination in a stable state.
④ Then if the severed molecular chain is combined with another severed molecular chain (WXYZ), this molecular combination will be more stable (P1+Q2 = W S1+R2 = Y) .
9. Bending durability test method for pleats
①Angle expansion method: Take out a piece of yarn from the pleated fabric, put it into a container filled with soapy water, and measure its expansion after 2 minutes. Angle below 90° is qualified.
②Soaking method: Soak the processed cloth or finished product in 70° hot water for 30 minutes, dry it, then unfold the pleated part, lay it flat, and blow it with steam for 30 seconds. , and then compare it to the pleats before soaking to determine its durability.
10． Inspection standards for pleat processing
Strictly check the shape, size, and quality of the fabric after pleat processing according to the following essentials:
① Essentials for checking pleat shape
Check the width of the pleats, the spacing between the pleats, the edges, the pattern texture, etc.
② Key points for checking size
Waist, hips, body length, seam allowance, and hem length.
③ Key points for checking quality
Feel, discoloration, fading, unevenness, shrinkage, bending, defects, dirt, etc.
11. Three-dimensional pleats
The original method of making pleated skirts is to first make flat linear pleats, and then use sewing techniques to sew them reluctantly according to the curves of the human body during sewing. Defects such as pleat deformation and irregularity are prone to occur. It cannot match the curves of the waist and hips, and the waist part may be upturned. The characteristics of the skirt cannot be fully utilized. (Figure 1) The way to solve these problems is to use three-dimensional pleats. According to the curves of the human body, pleats with three-dimensional curves are made directly on the mold, allowing the soft curves from the waist to the buttocks to be more beautifully displayed.
This method is to set the size of the buttocks on the mold in advance, and then sew the processed fabric with a sewing machine. (Figure 2) This method can also be expanded to eliminate pleats. (Figure 3) This processing method has been patented by the Japan Three-dimensional Pleats Association. (Patent No. 447037)
12. How to use pleated products
① After daily storage and wearing, use a brush to brush off the dust according to the grain of the fabric and tidy it up. Hang on hanger. If there are serious wrinkles or the pleats become loose, you can spray some water on it, straighten the pleats and then dry them to restore them to their original shape.
②Washing method: In principle, wool products should be dry cleaned. Items made from wool and synthetic fiber blends are also best dry-cleaned. If you have to wash it at home, soak it in warm water containing 0.2% neutral detergent. Do not rub it. You can only rinse it or press it gently. After washing, do not wring it out, but press it gently to squeeze out the water, hang it on a hanger, and place it in a cool and ventilated place away from direct sunlight to dry.
③Ironing method This method is rarely used. If used, place a piece of cloth on top first and control the iron temperature to about 150°.
13． Changes in pleating processing
The first period from 1953 to 1956 "acetate fiber" accordion type, automobile curtain type
The second period from 1958 to 1964 "polyester, acrylic" accordion Type, car curtain type, cigarette type, wavy type
The third issue 1967~1970 "Gauze fabric" three-dimensional pleats, short skirts, upward elimination type
The fourth issue 1974 ~1980 "Knitted fabrics" accordion type, half-moon type, irregular type, mid-length skirt
The fifth issue 1985~1991 "New synthetic fibers" shell type, irregular type, composite processing, wrinkles Type
14. Achievements of Japan Corporation in the pleating processing industry
Japan Corporation is the first enterprise to engage in pleating processing in Japan. In 1953, when acetate fiber fabric appeared, pleating processing using its plasticity has a history of nearly 50 years. In 1970, it used hand pleating processing technology to gain a 25% market share in Japan (processing 2 million pieces per year). Photos 5 to 8 are a true portrayal of the achievements achieved in the same industry at that time.