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At the beginning of the 20th century, pocket watches declined, and watches gradually rose and succeeded. A hundred years later, we are used to watching the brand launch new products every year. And every change between these square inches is not without traces in previous watches. The watch industry also has its "constant change", and the "zong" mentioned here is all aspects, including the movement structure, dial design, decoration technology and so on. From the perspective of "the influence on the development history of watches", this paper selects eight classic watches to talk about.
The most classic giant watch
1917–Cartier tank series watches that witnessed the changes of watches.
19 16, the battle of somme was the largest battle in the first world war, and it was also the first time in human history that tanks were used in actual combat. 19 17, Louis cartier designed a watch tank Normale with a square case, inspired by the tank and referring to the shape of the tank when looking down, and the tank series was born.
In the past hundred years, tanks have won the favor of many celebrities and politicians, such as: former first lady Jacqueline Kennedy, British Princess Diana, writer Truman Capote, Oscar-winning clark gable, Hollywood actress ingrid bergman, etc ... andy warhol is regarded as one of the most famous figures in the art world in the 20th century. I once said, "I don't wear a tank to tell the time. Actually, I never wind up. I wear a tank watch because this is the watch I should wear. " I don't wear a tank to tell the time. Actually, I've never tied him. I only wear it because it is the watch I should wear. Cartier's tank series is such an existence.
According to the different styles of different times or different wearing occasions, Tank series has derived more than a dozen different designs after Tank Normale, such as Tank Cintré e, Tank Chinoise, Tank Louis Cartier, Tank Am é ricaine and so on. It not only maintains a smooth and concise quadrilateral appearance, but also has the dial design of Cartier's iconic elements (track minutes, Roman numerals and blue steel hands), each with its own characteristics. As a square watch, it has always been one of the first choices for many people to buy watches because of its simple and versatile style, neutral design and people-friendly entry price.
During the 100 years since its publication, this "century classic" not only witnessed the changes and development of the watch industry, but also became one of the masterpieces.
One of the earliest waterproof prototypes of watches.
1927–the first Rolex oyster watch across the English Channel.
Oyster (English name: oyster) has become extremely adaptable to different temperature environments and salinity during its 200 million years of evolution. Its closed shell prevents gravel from entering the deep sea. 1926, Rolex designed a watch with a screw-in cover and a screw-in crown. The closed shell structure of "oyster" provides reliable protection for the movement. At that time, it was a problem that the movement was blocked by dust or water, and Rolex's oyster watch just solved this problem. This is the first waterproof and dustproof watch on the market, named "Oyster".
As the first waterproof and dustproof watch suitable for daily wear, Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of the brand, applied for patents for both the case and the crown. These two patents are also the design prototypes of Rolex's current watches and become brand symbols.
The most elegant sports watch
193 1 year-Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso flip series watches were born due to the aristocratic movement.
Polo, also known as "the sport of kings", used to be a royal game. Jaeger-LeCoultre's classic Reverso flip series was inspired by a polo match in the early 1930s. /kloc-one day in 0/930, British officers in the Indian army rode on horseback, waving polo clubs and fighting fiercely. An officer's watch mirror was broken again because of collision in the game, so he asked his friend, Swiss watchmaker Kaiser? Can César de Trey of Detrie design a reliable watch suitable for polo? So, Caesar? Detrie and the watchmaker Jacques David? Lekot Jacques-David LeCoultre designed a wristwatch with a freely reversible case. After 193 1 was officially listed, it was a success and became the iconic watch of Jaeger-LeCoultre.
The word "Reverso" means "reversible" in Latin. The original intention of the design is to hide the single-sided dial through the double-sided flip design of the case and expose the back of the case, so as to protect the dial from the impact of the club during polo. The watch mirror has become stronger with the development of the times. Now there are two styles of watches: double-sided dial and single-sided dial. Double-sided dial is used to meet the wearing needs of various occasions. Single-sided dial can be custom engraved on the metal surface.
Times have changed, and next year is the 90th anniversary of the launch of Reverso flip series. Flip series has not been eclipsed by the passage of time. This Art Deco Art Deco style watch, with its unique flip function and elegant and smooth line design, has long been one of the most iconic square watches, and it has a long history and is very popular.
The most forward-looking watch
1939–IWC Portugieser Portuguese series, with the wind of "big watch"
By the end of 1930s, watches were neck and neck with pocket watches in the market. Two businessmen from Portugal expressed to IWC the Portuguese's potential demand for watches, but not only traditional pocket watches and ladies' accessories watches, but also men's demand for watches. Two businessmen plan to make a watch and sell it to the captain of Portuguese merchant ship and naval officer. At that time, navigation timing instruments were mainly used for ship navigation, which required accurate travel time and clear reading time. As a result, two businessmen ordered a men's watch in the world, which was as accurate as a navigation chronograph in terms of walking time and reading clarity. 1939, IWC launched the "Model 325" wristwatch on demand, which is the prototype of the Portuguese series.
Clear Arabic numerals, slender willow hands and orbital minute rings make the whole dial layout simple and easy to read. The overall simple and smooth lines of the watch make the large-diameter Portuguese series not show coarse ore, but reveal a clean and elegant atmosphere. Now we are used to the diameter of 40 mm or more, but the Portuguese system of all countries has really brought the trend of "large diameter", occupying a place in the bezel and becoming one of the pillar series of all countries.
The chronograph that most witnessed human history.
1957–The only Omega Speedmaster mobile ultraman watch that landed on the moon.
Omega Ultraman Motorized Altman Series came out in 1957. Its history can be said to be a "history of space exploration", and its legend is also achieved in the endless exploration of mysterious space by human beings.
As early as 1962, the mobile Altman's watch first entered space, when astronaut Wally? Sheila Wally Sheila is carrying out the Mercury mission, which is a separate manned space program. In 1964, NASA asked about the chronograph watch that went into space. After layers of testing and screening, the mobile Altman wristwatch is the only "survivor" and officially declared as a designated equipment in space by NASA. In the same year, the mobile Altman watch accompanied astronaut Edward? White edward white completed the first spacewalk in the United States. Since then, mobile Altman observation has witnessed space exploration missions again and again.
The space exploration that made the mobile Altman's watch truly famous and won the reputation of "Moon Watch" took place on July 2 1 day, 1969, Neil? Armstrong, neil armstrong and Buzz? Aldrin Buzz Aldrin became the first astronaut to land on the moon in human history, and the mobile Altman watch became the first watch to land on the moon. After that, the mobile Altman watch participated in six NASA missions to the moon. It was the only watch that landed on the moon for more than half a century.
As a watch that can land on the moon, Omega Motorized Altman series has a strong endorsement on the accuracy of travel, the stability of performance and the reliability of quality, and has become an irreplaceable "legend".
The most daring and avant-garde chronograph
1969–Unique TAG Heuer Monaco watch.
Le Mans, a small French town, is famous for its "24 Hours of Le Mans Endurance 24 HEURES DU MANS", which is one of the world's three major racing competitions held every June. In the racing movie "Master of Speed" released on 197 1, steve mcqueen steve mcqueen, a famous Hollywood movie star and racing driver, wore a wristwatch in every scene of the film, which attracted much attention for its unique design. It is the Monaco series released by TAG Heuer 1969.
At that time, square watches mostly appeared in formal occasions and did not have waterproof function. The Monaco series combines the square case with motor racing, which makes people shine. Not only that, it is the first square case watch equipped with waterproof function and self-winding movement. The crown is placed at 9 o'clock to highlight its lack of winding, and the red and blue color matching of the dial and hands is a breakthrough watch of that year.
Monaco series watches, both then and now, are bold and avant-garde designs, which have become a "special existence" in the watch industry because of their unique style.
The first wrist watch to put forward luxury sports style.
1972-An unprecedented series of Audemars Piguet royal oak watches
/kloc-At the beginning of the 7th century, charles ii was rescued from hiding under an old oak tree during the English Civil War, and later made a comeback and became the king of England. The old oak tree that saved his life was named "Royal Oak". Since then, the "Royal Oak" has enjoyed a special position in the hearts of the British royal family, and the Royal Navy has used it to name battleships many times.
197 1 year, under the shadow of "timely crisis", the watchmaking industry urgently needs some subversive works. So Audemars Piguet invited the famous watch designer Jerome Zunda Gerald Genta to design a brand-new "fine steel Watch with both sports and elegance, suitable for various occasions". Inspired by the diving helmet with eight screws, Master Zunda completed the first draft of the watch design in just one day, and the watch was named "Royal Oak".
Eight hexagonal screws on the octagonal bezel are exposed, which subverts the previous design that all parts of the watch are hidden in the case. The "TAPISSERIE" plaid decoration on the large-diameter dial and the strap integrated with the case are also eye-catching. As the originator of sports luxury steel watches, the price is as high as 3300 Swiss francs, and the same price is enough to buy a gold watch. Innovative design and high price made the Royal Oak Series cause a sensation in 1972 as soon as it was launched. Even after nearly half a century, it is still hot and continues to affect the design style of watches.
When it comes to Audemars Piguet's royal oak, Patek Philippe's Nautilus watches are essential.
Nautilus is the name of the submarine driven by Captain Nemo in Verne's science fiction Two Wan Li under the Sea. The technological level of this car in the book has surpassed the times. Following 1976, Patek Philippe launched the brand's first sports series, which has a unique design and a Swiss patented 120m waterproof case. Patek Philippe named the watch Nautilus, which is in line with the breakthrough and advance in the design of this watch.
Unlike Patek Philippe's previous watch styles, Nautilus series is inspired by the shape of cruise ship portholes. It has a rounded octagonal bezel, a delicate and unique porthole case, and a dial decorated with horizontal relief patterns. The case and strap are designed in one piece, which makes this sports watch look elegant and tasteful.
As a popular watch of this brand, Nautilus series watches are hard to find, and have already become classics after half a century.