Nanjing Yunjin: Royal brocade with every inch of gold?
Nanjing Yunjin is so named because it is as beautiful as clouds. Yunjin is the same as Sichuan Shu Brocade, Suzhou Song Brocade and Guangxi Zhuang Brocade. Also known as the Four Famous Brocades, Nanjing Yunjin Brocade ranks first and is one of the most precious intangible cultural heritages of mankind.
In the brocade family, Nanjing Yunjin brocade weaving technology is the essence of Chinese royal weaving. It is "the only one" in the weaving industry and represents the highest level of Chinese brocade weaving technology.
Yunjin brocade is known as the last milestone in the history of ancient Chinese brocade craftsmanship. Nanjing Yunjin brocade was born out of the "Chu brocade" and "Han brocade" of the Qin and Han Dynasties, and directly integrated the "Wu brocade" technology of the Three Kingdoms period. Since the Yuan Dynasty, Yun brocade has been a special material for royal clothing and has served the royal family for more than 700 years.
Nanjing Yunjin can be included in the World Heritage List. Its main features are:
1. It is beautiful and a Chinese treasure. There is a reason why Nanjing Yunjin is regarded as a "treasure of China" and "a unique product of China". It is named for its bright and brilliant color, which is as beautiful as the clouds in the sky. It uses exquisite materials, fine weaving, exquisite patterns, gorgeous brocade patterns, and elegant style. It is developed on the basis of inheriting the excellent traditions of brocade weaving in the past dynasties, and is also integrated with it. The valuable experience of various other silk weaving crafts has reached the pinnacle of silk weaving craftsmanship, represents the highest achievement of Chinese silk weaving craftsmanship, condenses the essence of Chinese silk weaving craftsmanship, and is the brilliant crystallization of Chinese silk weaving culture.
2. Fine workmanship, every inch of gold is precious. It applies core technologies such as "warp cutting and weft cutting" to a large loom with a complex structure. It is manually operated by two people, using silk thread, gold thread and peacock feather thread and other materials to weave luxurious fabrics. During operation, one person above is holding a hand. The warp threads are carefully and attentively drawn; the person below is tilting his head upward, circling the warp threads, shuttling left and right, taking both up and down into account. "Reeling silk and weaving silk is still hard work, but it becomes difficult to weave on the machine" is a true portrayal of the brocade weaver. At that time, the two men could only weave 5-6 centimeters a day, so Nanjing Yunjin was said to be "every inch of brocade is gold."
3. The "Four Beauties" characteristics are rare in the world. Nanjing Yunjin brocade weaving technology is complex and the shapes are wonderful. World-renowned scholars and experts can summarize its cultural and artistic characteristics into the "four beauties", namely the beauty of artistic shape and design, the beauty of harmonious warp and weft colors, and the exquisiteness of technological innovation principles. It means the beauty of patterns. These "four beauties" are rare in China and even in the world.
4. It has a long and continuous history. Since the Yuan Dynasty, Yun brocade has been exclusively used for royal clothing. By the Ming Dynasty, brocade weaving technology had become increasingly mature and perfect, and formed the local characteristics of Nanjing silk jacquard brocade. The dragon robes and phoenix clothes weaved by it, palace curtains, mandarin jackets and cheongsams, and the patchwork uniforms of civil and military officials are divided into different categories, reflecting the supremacy of imperial power and strict hierarchy. They are favored by the feudal ruling class and at the same time cater to the socialist township party. The value orientation of sensationalism, blind worship and the masses’ pursuit of happiness and auspiciousness are loved by the grassroots people, so they have a wide space for survival. "The picture must be intentional, and the intention must be auspicious." These elements that express good fortune and wishful thinking have become the excellent traditional culture that the Chinese nation continues to inherit.