What is arbutin? What effect does it have on the skin?
English name of arbutin: chemical name of arbutin: p-hydroxyphenyl -β-D- glucopyranoside alias: arbutin, arbutin, myricetin, arbutin, arbutin, bayberry extract molecular formula: C 12H 16O7 molecular weight: No.272.25cas Melting point: 197-200 (0.5)℃; PH value: 6.0-6.8; Heavy metal: ≤10ppm; Hydroquinone content: ≤10ppm; Specific rotation: =-64.001.00; Infrared characteristic peak:1515cm-1220cm-11050 (5-8) cm-1 For detailed physical indexes and parameters of arbutin, please refer to www.artec.cc/products-e-2-1-1.html and www.artec.cc/products-e-2-1-2. html. Arbutin is a natural active substance from green plants, and it is a skin decoloring component that integrates "green plants, safety and reliability" and "high efficiency". It can quickly penetrate into the skin, effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase in the skin without affecting the cell proliferation concentration and blocking the formation of melanin. By directly combining with tyrosinase, it accelerates the decomposition and excretion of melanin, thus reducing skin pigmentation and removing spots. It is the safest and most effective whitening raw material at present, and it is also the ideal skin whitening and freckle removing active agent in 2 1 century. Main uses: used in advanced cosmetics, which can be made into skin cream, freckle cream, advanced pearl cream and so on. It can not only beautify and protect skin, but also diminish inflammation, inflammation and inflammation. In fact, the main function of arbutin is to brighten skin tone and make skin look young and beautiful. The use of arbutin in European and American countries takes advantage of this function. At present, as more and more patents expire, arbutin, which was previously used only in high-end cosmetics, is becoming more and more popular. Precautions for use: ★ Arbutin is easy to decompose in acidic environment, and the pH value of cream emulsion and other systems should be controlled at 5-7; ★ Dissolve arbutin in a small amount of water at 50℃ and add it at 50℃ after the cream is emulsified; ★ Add an appropriate amount of antioxidant into the cosmetic system to prevent discoloration ★ After the cream is emulsified, add NaHSO3 and Na2SO3 dissolved in a small amount of water at 50℃ (recommended amount is 0.3-0.4%); ★ Adding natural vegetable oil containing oleic acid and linoleic acid can promote the synergistic effect of arbutin; ★ Adding 0.8-1.0% azone to the cosmetic system can promote the absorption of arbutin and prevent arbutin from depositing on the skin. Arbutin: Before arbutin is introduced, a substance: hydroquinone is introduced. It can interfere with the formation of melanin to achieve whitening effect, but because it is irritating, it will cause irritating dermatitis and pigmentation, and it is listed as a banned product in cosmetics in many countries. Arbutin attracts a glucose molecule in the molecule, which reduces the irritation, has the ability to interfere with melanocytes and dilute the formed melanin, and has good sunscreen ability and strong freckle removing effect. It is used to treat chloasma, freckles and other pigments, and has a good curative effect. The upper limit of use in skin care products is 7%. Arbutin is mainly extracted from the leaves of bear fruit, and it is also found in some fruits and other plants, such as western pear, small hawthorn and saxifragon (arbutin on the market is chemically synthesized at present). It has the effect of brightening skin, can quickly penetrate into skin without affecting skin cells, can combine with tyrosinase which causes melanin production, can effectively block the activity of tyrosinase and melanin production, and accelerate the decomposition and elimination of melanin. In addition, arbutin can protect skin from free radicals and has good hydrophilicity, so arbutin is often added to whitening products on the market, especially in Asian countries, which is one of the most popular whitening ingredients in recent years. According to different structures, α-and β-arbutin can be divided into α-and β-arbutin, both of which can inhibit tyrosinase to achieve whitening effect. At present, β -arbutin is the most widely used one and has been studied in detail. It is said that adding α-form to β-form 1 concentration can inhibit the production of tyramine and achieve whitening effect, but detailed toxicological study has not been seen. ※. Many skin care products added with α -arbutin claim that their whitening effect is ten times higher than that of traditional arbutin, but the actual effect is not confirmed by clear data and experimental reports, but the whitening effect is still positive. Will arbutin make your face darker and darker? ※? Recently, it is often said that products added with arbutin should not be used in daytime, and there have been medical reports that when the concentration of arbutin is 0.5-8Nm, the melanin content in melanocytes will increase instead. However, that is only the data obtained from testing cells in the laboratory, and whether the same situation will occur in humans is still inconclusive. In view of the possible side effects of arbutin, the Health Department of Taiwan Province Province announced the concentration limit of arbutin in 1989. The concentration of arbutin added in all whitening cosmetics should not exceed 7% at most. As long as you do a good job of sun protection during the day and protect the activity of arbutin within the safe dose stipulated by the Department of Health, there will basically be no increase in melanin content. Unless you are allergic to arbutin, you are prone to redness, inflammation and other discomfort after using it. You can use related products at ease during the day. However, what we really need to be careful about is hydroquinone, which is a medicine for external use, because it can destroy melanocytes and has obvious freckle removing effect, but it is very irritating to the skin and may cause irritation or contact dermatitis. What's more, if it is not used properly, it will even produce blue-gray reticular pigment precipitation or excessive decoloration, leading to local whitening. Therefore, hydroquinone is prohibited in cosmetics. Experimental data of arbutin used in whitening skin care products Many people are particularly afraid of the photosensitivity of arbutin. Actually, there is no need to worry. Experiments show that only arbutin with a concentration over 7% may be sensitive to light, so 7% is a safe critical point. The biggest feature of arbutin is that active molecules can penetrate deep into the basal layer to fade spots, which has a strong therapeutic effect on chloasma, dark spots, sunburn and pigmentation left by drug allergy. But if the concentration is too low, the durability of the effect will be weakened, so the concentration of 5% is the safest and most efficient. The concentration of 5% is faster than vitamin C, and the spots are persistent and stable, and will not cause irritation to the skin. I don't know if I'm satisfied.