In 1921, the British mountaineering team, led by Lieutenant Colonel Charles Howard Bury, climbed Mount Everest from Tibet, my country for the first time. They did not cross the top of the North Col. They claimed that the height they reached was 6985 meters. Unsuccessful, they declared it a reconnaissance climb. In 1922, the second British Mount Everest climbing team (captain Ji Bruce) still took the north slope route in Tibet, my country. They crossed the North Col, but failed due to the death of seven people when they reached a height of 8,225 meters. In 1924, the third British Mount Everest climbing team (captain F. Norton) was still climbing from the north slope of Mount Everest in my country. When Norton and others reached 8572 meters below the "second step" on the north slope, they died due to lack of oxygen. Forced to go down the mountain, team members Mallory and Abin insisted on moving forward and never returned. In 1933, the British mountaineering team consisting of 16 people (captain He Lutoliji) still used the north slope route in Tibet, but also failed. The team members Win Harries and Weigel arrived At an altitude of 8,570 meters, the ice ax belonging to Mallory, a member of the British Everest climbing team in 1924, was found, confirming that Mallory and the other two died near this altitude. In 1934, the British M. Wilson used a light plane to climb alone. As a result, the plane was damaged near the Kongbu Glacier. He was slightly injured. Later, he hired some local Sherpa people to assist with the mountaineering, but after a storm, He froze to death on the Dongob Glacier. In 1935, the seven-member British Mount Everest climbing team (captain E. Shipton) only reconnoitered the 7,000-meter-high altitude of the north slope of Mount Everest in Tibet, near the North Col. In 1936, the ten-member British Mount Everest mountaineering team (captain He Lutoliji) reached the top of the North Col at an altitude of 7007 meters and returned (Note: the top of the North Col used to be 7007 meters. In 1975, the Chinese mountaineering team passed the site Measurements calculated the exact height to be 7050 meters). In 1938, the seven-member British Mount Everest climbing team (captain G. Dillman) still climbed the mountain from the north slope of my country. After reaching an altitude of 8,290 meters, it failed. In 1947, the first climb of Mount Everest after the Second World War was carried out by a Canadian, Le Dinman, who hired some local mountain residents as porters. They still walked on the north slope of my country and did not exceed an altitude of 6,400 meters. In the end, he failed. The above-mentioned attempts to climb Mount Everest were all conducted from the Tibetan area in my country, and all failed. After 1950, China's Tibet region was liberated. Tibet, which is located in an important southwest border defense area, no longer allowed foreign mountaineering teams to conduct arbitrary mountaineering activities. Since then, foreign mountaineering teams have climbed Mount Everest from the southern slopes of Nepal. In 1950, a mountaineering team composed of Americans such as G. Houston and others made the first attempt to climb Mount Everest from the southern slopes of Nepal. They only reached the vicinity of the ice explosion area at an altitude of 6,100 meters on the Khonbu Glacier before returning. . In 1950, the British mountaineering team, consisting of five people (captain G. Dillman), claimed in advance to be a reconnaissance team climbing Mount Everest from the south slope, and returned after reaching the vicinity of the Kongbu Glacier at an altitude of 5,480 meters. In 1951, the British mountaineering team, captained by E. Shipton, consisted of only seven people. They only climbed a section of the Khumbu Glacier and returned near an altitude of 6,450 meters. In 1951, a Danish man named K. Bega Larsson illegally and secretly crossed the border into our Tibetan area. He planned to climb Mount Everest from the north slope, but he failed before even crossing the 6,500-meter altitude. In May 1952, a ten-member Swiss mountaineering team led by captain Le Dittmar climbed Mount Everest from the southern slopes of Nepal. Team member Le Lambier and their hired porter, Nepali Tenxin, reached an altitude of 8,540 meters. After reaching the height of Mount Everest, they failed due to bad weather, but they created a route from the south slope of Mount Everest to the summit. In October 1952, the Swiss mountaineering team led by G. Chevalier climbed Mount Everest from the south slope for the first time in autumn, that is, after the rainy season in the Himalayas. Team member Le Lambier was a participant of the Swiss team in the spring of the same year. Team member En Gillienfurter and Nepali Fujishin, who was hired in the spring, reached an altitude of 8,100 meters above sea level, but failed again due to bad weather.
May 29, 1953: Two members of the British mountaineering team (composed of ten people), led by captain John Hunter, climbed Mount Everest along the southeast ridge route. The team members who reached the summit were Edmund Hillary (New Zealander) and Tenzing Norgay (the Nepalese guide who climbed 8,000 meters twice with the Swiss mountaineering team in the spring and autumn of 1952). Team members Evans and Burgiran reached a height of 8,720 meters. The height of Mount Everest used by the British this time is 8840 meters. In 1956, a Swiss mountaineering team headed by Albert Eggler climbed Mount Everest for the second time in human history. The route they used was the route that was opened up by Swiss athletes in 1952 and was later used successfully by the British team. That is, from the Kongbu Glacier on the south slope of Mount Everest to the col (commonly known as the South Col) between Mount Everest and its sister peak Luoze Peak (8,501 meters above sea level), and then climb to the top along the southeast ridge. The altitude of Mount Everest used is 8848 meters. In the early morning of May 25, 1960, the Chinese Mount Everest Mountaineering Team (commander-in-chief Han Fudong, captain Shi Zhanchun), led by assault team leader Wang Fuzhou, climbed Mount Everest from the north slope for the first time. The three members who climbed to the top were Wang Fuzhou and Gong. Bu (Tibetan) and Qu Yinhua. During this mountaineering, a total of 29 members of the Chinese mountaineering team climbed to an altitude of more than 8,100 meters on Mount Everest. In addition to the summit members, 13 members climbed to an altitude of 8,500 meters. This is also the first time in the history of world mountaineering. In May 1960, when the Chinese mountaineering team was assaulting Mount Everest from the north slope, an Indian mountaineering team led by Indian Army Major Ji Singh was also climbing Mount Everest from the south slope of Nepal in Nepal. When they reached an altitude of 8,625 meters on the south slope, they announced that they could not move forward due to strong winds and gave up the summit attempt. In 1962, India's second Mount Everest climbing team, led by its captain, Lieutenant Colonel Jay Dias of the Indian Army, once again climbed Mount Everest from the southern slopes of Nepal. It failed again because of fear of strong winds. Two people climbed to a height of 8,717 meters above sea level. In 1963, the American Mount Everest climbing team (captain Norman Dylan Firth) succeeded in climbing to the summit from the south slope of Mount Everest in Nepal along the southwest ridge. The American team conducted two assaults 21 days apart. The first time, two people climbed to the top on May 1, the second time, four people climbed to the top on May 22, and twice, six people climbed up. It is the fourth mountaineering team to climb Mount Everest. On May 27, 1975, nine Chinese mountaineers climbed Mount Everest from the north slope. In 1965, the Indian mountaineering team (the captain was Lieutenant Commander Mu Goli of the Indian Navy) climbed Mount Everest on May 20, 22, 24, and 29 In four days, four echelons were climbed to the top of Mount Everest from the southern slope of Nepal. Nine people climbed up four times. The captain, deputy captain and members of the mountaineering team were all selected from Indian active military personnel. The route is an old route used by the British and Swedish teams in the past. In the spring of 1969, the Japanese mountaineering team made its first exploratory mountaineering expedition from the south slope of Mount Everest. After reaching the Kongbu Glacier area at an altitude of 6,450 meters, some glacier and meteorological observers were left behind. They stayed in the Mount Everest for a full year. , made long-term observations on meteorology, glaciers, etc., laying the necessary foundation for the Japanese team to officially climb Mount Everest in 1970. In the autumn of 1969, the Japanese Mount Everest climbing team (captain Yoshihiro Fujita) attempted to capture Mount Everest from the south slope based on the mountaineering reconnaissance in the spring of that year. However, after they reached an altitude of 8,000 meters above sea level, they announced that they had "completed the autumn season." Mountaineering reconnaissance mission" and returned. In the spring of 1970, the Japanese Mount Everest mountaineering team was led by the 70-year-old captain Saburo Matsukata (this man was a veteran of the Japanese mountaineering community. Although he participated in this mountaineering, he spent all his time in the base camp during mountaineering activities. (his participation showed that the Japanese mountaineering community attached great importance to this event), he was divided into two groups to attack Mount Everest: one group started from the south of Mount Everest along a long route. A very steep rock wall (also called a rock wall) reaching 800 meters goes straight to the summit of Mount Everest. This is a relatively difficult route chosen by the Japanese because they dare to perform "technical mountaineering" above 8,000 meters above sea level, that is, climbing The steep rock wall is something that has never been done by mountaineering teams from other countries in the past.
The other group still chose the traditional old route, which is the route to the summit from the south slope through the South Col along the southeast ridge. The reason why the Japanese team was divided into two groups and dared to challenge the rock wall on the south slope of Mount Everest was inseparable from the world mountaineering trend at that time. Because climbing to the summit along the traditional route from the south slope and taking the path that others have taken is of little significance to the rapidly developing alpine mountaineering movement. The Japanese team's frontal summit route on the south slope failed as it was expected to rise about 150 meters (based on the vertical height of the slope). In the end, they had to rely on the second group's traditional route. On May 11 and 12, 1970, the team was divided into two echelon groups and four people successfully climbed to the summit via the traditional route. The summit team members were Matsuura Teruo, Uemura Naomi, Tairabayashi Katsutoshi and a Nepalese porter. Chautari. In the spring of 1971, the "International Everest Climbing Team" was formed by mountaineers from 11 European countries, including Britain, France, Italy, Austria, Switzerland and India. , climb to the summit along the southwest ridge route of the south slope of Mount Everest (note: basically the route of the 1963 American mountaineering team). Due to inconsistent steps from the beginning and great internal disagreements, it was declared a failure after the death of Indian team member Huguna in an avalanche. In the spring of 1972, a "European Everest Mountaineering Team" composed of mountaineers from 8 European countries (Britain, France, Italy, Austria, West Germany, Switzerland, etc.) led by Siddiq Heilikaufer, along the The traditional route to the summit from the south slope failed after reaching an altitude of 8,200 meters. In the autumn of 1972 (September to November), the British military mountaineering team (Captain Bonington) climbed Mount Everest along the traditional route on the south slope. After establishing an assault camp at an altitude of 8,230 meters, it was forced to fail due to climate change. In the spring of 1973 (February to May), the Italian military mountaineering team, led by Guido Monzino, the principal of the Italian Military Mountaineering School, formed a team including the Italian army, navy, air force, police force, customs personnel, medical, and meteorological personnel. A large Everest mountaineering team with other military scientific staff climbed to the top of Mount Everest twice on May 5 and May 7 of that year, with a group of 4 people each time, and a total of 8 people. There are about 60 Italian soldiers in the whole team, which is the largest number of foreign mountaineering teams to climb in Nepal. They hired more than 300 Nepali porters and guides and mobilized a variety of transportation tools, including modern mountain transportation tools such as military helicopters and slope tractors. The Italian military mountaineering team’s summit route originally had two plans. One was to climb to the summit along the southwest ridge (the original route used by the American team in 1963), and the other was a backup plan, which was to climb along the safer, traditional route of the southeast ridge. top. As a result, the first plan was blocked, and in the end, the backup plan was adopted to reach the top. In the autumn of 1973, the Japanese Mount Everest climbing team (captain Shotaro Mizuno) entered Mount Everest in August of that year. The original attempt was to climb to the summit from the south route of Mount Everest, which the Japanese team had not succeeded in in 1970. They had tried every means to improve the equipment in advance. Although he used oxygen equipment at an altitude of more than 8,000 meters, he still could not cross the large rock wall above 8,000 meters above sea level. As a result, he was forced to adopt a backup plan and climbed to the summit along the traditional route of the southeast ridge through the South Col. Two team members, Hisashi Ishiguro and Yasuo Kato, reached the summit of Mount Everest on October 26. This is the first time in the history of Everest climbing that the climber has successfully reached the summit in autumn. In the spring of 1974, the 16-member Spanish Everest climbing team (captain Lorente Sugasa, a physiologist) used the traditional route on the south slope. When the commandos reached Camp 6 (8,600 meters) on May 19, They failed due to strong winds that prevented them from moving forward. At that time, they were only 350 meters away from the summit of Mount Everest. In the autumn of 1974, the French Mount Everest climbing team, captained by Devoasson, the mayor of Chamonix (a small mountain town in the Alps), a famous French mountaineering and skiing city, consisted of 10 Frenchmen and employed 390 people. Nepali porters and guides chose the route of the 1963 American mountaineering team along the southwest ridge to reach the summit. One of the main purposes of this mountaineering is to test the physiological changes of the human body at high altitude. They specially made a remote-controlled electrocardiogram device for each summit team member, and prepared to conduct a systematic observation of all electrocardiograms of the athletes from the bottom of the mountain to the top.
However, on the night of September 19, a large avalanche occurred near an altitude of 6,400 to 6,900 meters, killing the team leader and five Nepalese porters, and the entire team’s mountaineering activities failed. In the spring of 1975, Japanese Junko Tabei became the first woman in the world to climb Mount Everest from the south slope. In the same year, the Chinese mountaineering team climbed Mount Everest for the second time. Nine members reached the summit. Pan Duo, a Tibetan member, became the first woman in the world to successfully summit from the north slope. A Japanese women's Mount Everest mountaineering team composed of 15 Japanese women (team leader Hideko Nagano), accompanied by a Japanese male reporter, established a base camp at an altitude of 5,350 meters on the southern slope of Mount Everest on March 16. Vice-captain Junko Tabei (36 years old) climbed to the summit of Mount Everest along the traditional route on the south slope at 12:30 noon local time on May 16, 1975, together with Nepali guide An Zelin (27 years old), and stopped for the first time. 25 minutes. The Japanese women's team encountered greater difficulties during this mountaineering trip. They set out from Japan to the base camp at the foot of the mountain and lost a lot of equipment and food; on the night of May 3-4, another large avalanche suddenly occurred at the camp at an altitude of 6,450 meters. Seven female team members and 23 Nepali guides suffered an avalanche. Attacked, the entire 6,450-meter camp was engulfed by an avalanche. The situation was very dangerous. However, after receiving timely rescue, all the people in distress escaped. Junko Tabei was also one of the team members buried by the avalanche. After reaching the top, she said, "In the future Never do mountaineering again! "In 1975, the Chinese Mount Everest Mountaineering Team (Party Secretary Wang Fuzhou, Captain Shi Zhanchun) was composed of members from seven fraternal ethnic groups: Han, Tibetan, Hui, Mongolian, Korean, Turkish, and Ewenki. , ***434 people, including 179 athletes, including 36 female athletes, and the remaining 255 people are scientific research, meteorology, communications, news, medical, transportation, cooking and other logistics personnel. Most of the members are from workers, peasants and soldiers. The entire team entered the mountains in early March and withdrew from camp in early June. After many marches (the first three were adaptive marches, and the last two were peak assaults), at 2:30 pm Beijing time on May 27, 1975, female team member Pan Duo and eight male team members Sonam Robb and Luo Ze , Hou Shengfu, Sangzhu, Dapingcuo, Gongga Pasang, Tsering Dorje, and Abuqin. After the Chinese mountaineering team Wang Fuzhou, Gonpot, and Qu Yinhua climbed Mount Everest from the north slope for the first time in 1960, they climbed Mount Everest from the north slope again. The highest point on earth. At 6 pm Nepal time on September 24, 1975, two members of the British mountaineering team, Heston (32 years old) and Scott (33 years old), climbed Mount Everest from the south slope of Mount Everest. The British team's route was determined during the Japanese team's reconnaissance in 1969, but the Japanese team climbed along this line twice in 1970 and 1973, both at 8050 meters to 8050 meters.