By the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the most obvious feature of Chinese clothing was the dual-track system. In large sacrificial scenes, traditional Han clothes are worn. In normal times, the regular clothing in the Tang Dynasty was the Hufu (i.e. Xianbei clothing) system.
In the Tang Dynasty, the country was unified, the economy was prosperous, the style was more open, and the costumes became more and more gorgeous. The characteristic of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty is the unity of skirt, shirt and belt. Among women, the image of bare breasts and arms appeared. On the mural on the east wall of the tomb of Princess Yongtai, there is an image of a Tang Dynasty woman with a high bun, exposed breasts, a red silk draped over her shoulders, a yellow narrow-sleeved blouse, a green floor-length skirt, and a red belt hanging from her waist, thus reflecting the " The pink breasts are half covered with doubts and dark snow", and "when I sit, my belt is lingering in the grass, when I walk, my skirt sweeps away the fallen plum blossoms", which has a more vivid understanding.
Not everyone can do a slow-skirted skirt with half-revealed breasts. In the Tang Dynasty, only those with status could wear open-breasted shirts. Princess Yongtai could be half-naked, and singers could be half-nude to please the ruling class. However, women from common people were not allowed to be half-nude. At that time, the half-breasted skirts of the Tang Dynasty were somewhat similar to modern Western evening dresses, except that the shoulders and back were not allowed to be exposed.
The collars of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty include round collars, square collars, oblique collars, straight collars and sweetheart collars. The characteristic of the long skirt is that the waist is tied higher, usually above the waist, and some are even tied under the armpits, giving people a pretty and slender look.
"The leaves of the Luo shirt are heavily embroidered, with a trace of gold, phoenix and silver goose each." "The eyebrows with black eyebrows capture the color of daylilies, and the red skirt kills the pomegranate flowers with jealousy." The skirts of the Tang Dynasty were colorful, with red, purple, yellow and green competing for beauty, with red skirts being the most beautiful ones. The popularity of red skirts on the street is not just for modern people. As early as the prosperous Tang Dynasty, dance skirts were already dyed with pomegranate flowers everywhere.
Perhaps influenced by the theory of yin and yang and the five elements, Concubine Yang likes yellow skirts the most, which is a symbol of status.
"Slowly wearing skirts and half-revealing breasts" reflects the degree of open-mindedness of society at that time.
A social ideology formed on a certain economic basis. It is an important factor affecting social fashion and clothing. Clothing is a barometer of the sociopolitical climate. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of China's feudal society, especially during the Zhenguan and Kaiyuan years, when the political climate was relaxed and people lived and worked in peace and contentment. Chang'an, the capital of the Tang Dynasty, was the center of politics, economy, and culture at that time, and it was also the center of cultural exchanges between the East and the West. In the ancient city of Xi'an, the sounds of the prosperous Tang Dynasty still seem to linger around the morning bells of the Wild Goose Pagoda, the smoke in the thatched cottage, the wind and snow in the Willows, the evening light on the Lishan Mountain, the cactus in the Huayue Mountains, and the stone carvings in the Forest of Steles. There were more than 300 countries that had friendly relations with the Tang government. The splendid Chinese culture has been spread to all over the world through them. To this day, some countries in East Asia still use costumes from the Tang Dynasty as formal dresses, which shows the long-lasting influence. Foreign friendly envoys gathered in Chang'an and spread the seeds of their culture across the eight hundred miles of Qinchuan. The Tang Dynasty's paintings, sculptures, music, dance and other arts all attracted foreign techniques and styles. The eclectic collection of exotic clothes made the costumes of the Tang Dynasty more colorful and dazzling.
Because the Tang Dynasty adopted an open policy and adopted an eclectic mix of costumes from the Western Regions and Tubo, "Hundred Hats" and "Shishizhuang" became popular. This is the third major change in the history of ancient Chinese clothing. What is different from the previous two major clothing changes is that this time the clothing exchange flows from north to south to east to west.
[Edit this paragraph] Patterns of costumes in the Tang Dynasty
The costume patterns of the Tang Dynasty changed the past creative thinking based on talent and divine inspiration, using real flowers, grass, fish, Although Chong was sketching from life, the traditional dragon and phoenix patterns were not excluded. This was also determined by the influence of the divine power of the emperor. At this time, the design of clothing patterns tended to express free, plump and fat artistic styles.
The clothing patterns in the late Tang Dynasty were more exquisite and beautiful. The flower and bird clothing patterns, edge patterns, and flower patterns on the soft silk clothing are really a cluster of flowers, competing for beauty and beauty. As Wang Jian of the Five Dynasties said: "The leaves of the Luo shirt are heavily embroidered, with a cluster of golden phoenixes and silver geese each dancing in two directions. Among them are the words "Long Live Peace". Today, these luxurious and beautiful clothing patterns we see are the result of painters' The Dunhuang Grottoes used hard work to preserve precious image materials for future generations.
The development of clothing in the Tang Dynasty was an overall development. At this time, the design of clothing patterns tended to express freedom, fullness, gorgeousness, and roundness. The expressions in shoes, hats, scarves, jade pendants, hairstyles, makeup, and jewelry all illustrate this Features.
The Tang Dynasty inherited the styles of the Zhou, Warring States, and Wei and Jin periods, integrating the rigor of the Zhou Dynasty’s clothing pattern design, the stretch of the Warring States period, the brightness of the Han Dynasty, and the elegance of the Wei and Jin Dynasties. On this basis, it became more luxurious, bringing the costumes and costume patterns to a historical peak; the influence of the costumes and costume patterns of the Tang Dynasty on future generations continues to this day. The application of branch-tangled patterns in modern clothing patterns demonstrates the connotation resulting from the combination of traditional patterns and modern aesthetic consciousness.
Big-sleeved blouse--"Picture of Ladies with Hairpins" depicts the scene of aristocratic women walking in the courtyard, picking flowers and catching butterflies. The costumes of the characters in the picture are different from other Tang Dynasty portraits, such as wearing extra-large flowers on their heads and transparent gauze clothes, which are rare and novel costumes. Comparing the literature records, this kind of clothing should be the style of the middle and late Tang Dynasty, and has been passed down to the Five Dynasties. Using gauze as the material for women's clothing was a feature of Tang Dynasty clothing. Especially wearing no underwear and only covering the body with light gauze is a pioneering work.
Women's clothing in the middle and late Tang Dynasty - wide-sleeved cardigan, long skirt, worn in silk. This is the aristocratic costume of the middle and late Tang Dynasty. It is usually worn on important occasions, such as court visits, courtesy meetings, and weddings. Wearing this kind of dress, there are gold and green hairpins in the hair, so it is also called "fine hairpin dress".
Let’s look at the folk crafts of the Tang Dynasty, silk figures.
Ruskirts worn with half arms - half-arms have appeared as early as the early Tang Dynasty; not only popular in the Central Plains, women in the northwest also like to wear half-arms with skirts. A kind of clothing that comes from the extension of a short undershirt. It is usually worn with a double placket and a tie on the chest. There are also a few that use a "pullover" style, which is worn from the top down, with a wide neckline and a flattering chest shape. The hem of the half-arm can be shown outside, or it can be tied inside the skirt waist like a short jacket. Judging from the handed down murals and pottery servants, this kind of clothing must be lined with underwear (such as a short jacket) and cannot be used alone
Hu clothing - popular in the Kaiyuan and Tianbao years. It is characterized by lapels, double placket, narrow sleeves and brocade edging. The murals unearthed from the Weidong Tomb in Xi'an and the Li Xianhui Tomb in Qianxian County are reflected in a large number of pottery servants. There are also women wearing this kind of clothing in the silk paintings unearthed in Astana, Turpan, Xinjiang. At the same time, accounting texts from the second year of Xiantian (713 AD) and the second year of Kaiyuan (714 AD) were also unearthed. It can be inferred from this The Tang Dynasty was indeed the era when Hu clothing was popular.
[Edit this paragraph] The development of clothing in the Tang Dynasty
The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of my country’s feudal society. Both people’s thoughts and material production reached a historical level. peak. Starting from the Tang Dynasty, floral patterns were commonly used in craft decoration, and their compositions are lively and free, dense and well-proportioned, plump and round. Especially when the wavy continuous pattern is combined with flowers and plants, it becomes the twining branch pattern that was popular in the Tang Dynasty.
The costume patterns of the Tang Dynasty changed the past creative thinking based on talent and divine inspiration, and used real flowers, grass, fish, and insects for sketching. However, the traditional dragon and phoenix patterns were not rejected. It is also determined by the influence of the divine right of imperial power. At this time, the design of clothing patterns tended to express free, plump and fat artistic styles.
The clothing patterns in the late Tang Dynasty were more exquisite and beautiful. The flower and bird clothing patterns, edge patterns, and flower patterns on the soft silk clothing are really a cluster of flowers, competing for beauty and beauty. As Wang Jian of the Five Dynasties said: "The leaves of the Luo shirt are heavily embroidered, with a cluster of golden phoenixes and silver geese each dancing in two directions. Among them are the words "Long Live Peace". Today, these luxurious and beautiful clothing patterns we see are the result of painters' The Dunhuang Grottoes used hard work to preserve precious image materials for future generations. The development of clothing in the Tang Dynasty was an overall development. At this time, the design of clothing patterns tended to express freedom, fullness, gorgeousness, and roundness. The expressions in shoes, hats, scarves, jade pendants, hairstyles, makeup, and jewelry all illustrate this Features.
The costumes and hair styles of the Tang Dynasty are rich and colorful, and the patterns include phoenix patterns and peony patterns. Some hairstyles show the imprint of moiré, which is a reflection of the development and change of moiré.
Judging from the style of the shoes, round-toed shoes were popular in the Tang Dynasty, and the workmanship was very exquisite. Even the straw sandals were exquisite in craftsmanship. The pattern of the silk shoes is embroidered with a tiger head, which is similar to the pattern of the tiger-head shoes worn by children in Shandong today, except that the toes of the tiger-head shoes worn by rural children in Shandong are not as upward. The styles of men's shoes are similar to modern shoe styles, indicating that the development of shoes has reached its peak at that time. Looking at the costume patterns of the Tang Dynasty, we can understand them like this:
The Tang Dynasty inherited the styles of the Zhou, Warring States, and Wei and Jin periods, integrating the rigor in the design of costume patterns of the Zhou Dynasty, the stretch of the Warring States period, The brightness of the Han Dynasty and the elegance of the Wei and Jin Dynasties were integrated into one, and on this basis they became more luxurious, making clothing and clothing patterns reach a historical peak; the clothing and clothing patterns of the Tang Dynasty continue to influence future generations to this day. The application of branch-tangled patterns in modern clothing patterns demonstrates the connotation resulting from the combination of traditional patterns and modern aesthetic consciousness.
[Edit this paragraph] Women's Clothing in the Tang Dynasty
If the theme of men's clothing in ancient China is practicality and solemnity, then the style of women's clothing is romantic and colorful, while in the Tang Dynasty Women's clothing is the most gorgeous chapter.
The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of China's feudal society, with a prosperous economy, developed culture, frequent foreign exchanges, and an open world. Coupled with the influence of the customs of ethnic minorities outside the region, women in the Tang Dynasty were less constrained. In this unique era environment and social atmosphere, women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty, with its numerous styles, gorgeous colors, innovative decorative techniques, and elegant and gorgeous style, became one of the important symbols of Tang culture.
Women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty includes skirts, hats and shoes. The Tang Dynasty stipulates that women's clothing can be divided into four types: court clothing, public clothing, sacrificial clothing, and ordinary clothing. The first three are the large and small dresses ordered by the concubines and female officials to wear on formal occasions such as court meetings and sacrifices, while the latter are for daily wear. Women's regular clothes in the Tang Dynasty basically consisted of a shirt and a jacket on the upper body, a skirt on the lower body, and a silk shawl on the shoulders. The shirt is a single garment with a quilted undershirt and is only as short as the waist. The skirts are long and multiple. In addition, there are coats, half-arms, man shirts, etc. The coat is a jacket, longer than the undergarment and shorter than the robe. The half-arm is a short-sleeved tight top worn over the shirt, which was popular in the early Tang Dynasty. Manshan is a blouse worn by women when singing and dancing. It is short and easy to take off. The colors of her clothes are rich and colorful, with red, green, purple and yellow being the most popular. As people said at the time, "a red skirt is jealous of pomegranate flowers", "lotus root silk shirt and lotus root silk skirt", and "bent-waist tulip skirt" There are many woven and embroidered texts on shirts, jackets, jackets and skirts. As described in Tang poems: "The newly embroidered jacket has golden partridges in pairs", "The leaves of the jacket are heavily embroidered, and there are clusters of golden phoenixes and silver geese." . Clothing materials include silk, cotton, kudzu, linen, wool, etc., with silk being the most commonly used.
In addition, "Shishizhuang", bare collar clothing, men's clothing, and Hu clothing are also important clothing. "Shishizhuang" refers to fashion. In the early Tang Dynasty, women's clothes were narrow with small sleeves and half arms. They wore silk shawls around their shoulders and long, tight-fitting skirts that were tied up to their chests. The style was simple. In the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the skirts became wider and the waist moved lower. , the clothes are colorful; in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, the dresses became increasingly wider and fatter, and women often wore rich belts, wide robes, big sleeves, and gorgeous colors. Men's clothing, military clothing and Hu clothing were widely popular among women in the Tang Dynasty, especially during the heyday of the Tang Dynasty. The topless dress is a semi-topless long-sleeved blouse made of gauze. People at the time described it as "a slow skirt that half-covers the chest", "a staggered and shameful snow lotus", and "a delicate strand of silk that can be seen on the skin". "etc., paired with a floor-length skirt, fully embodies the graceful figure and natural beauty of women in the Tang Dynasty. Women in the Tang Dynasty liked military uniforms and men's clothing. "Military Uniform Gong E Sweeping Eyebrows" depicts the scene of women in the palace wearing military uniforms. During the reign of Emperor Wuzong, Wang Cairen was often mistaken for the emperor by the perpetrators because he wore the same clothes as Emperor Wuzong. What is good above will be replicated below. During the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the wives of scholars all wore their husbands' clothes, hats and boots. The maids also imitated their hostesses and wore men's round-neck clothes, buns on their heads, and black leather boots on their feet. Women in the Tang Dynasty did not have the concept of distinction between Chinese and Yi. During the Kaiyuan Tianbao period, Han women wearing lapels, narrow-sleeved tight-fitting Hu clothes, and waist belts could be seen everywhere on the streets of Chang'an, Luoyang and other major cities, which reflected the prosperity of the Tang Empire. The women have an open and healthy spirit.
When women wear their hair, they mainly wear various hats and wear buns. When wearing a hat, first wear a power hat, then wear a curtain hat, and then wear a beard hat.
The shape of the towel varies from period to period. In addition to the scarf, the Fu Tou's feet also had many changes. By the late Tang and Five Dynasties, the original soft feet had been changed into hard feet, one on the left and one on the left. The main attire of officials in the Tang Dynasty was round-necked narrow-sleeved robes, and their colors were stipulated: all officials of the third rank and above should wear purple; those of the fifth rank and above should wear scarlet; the sixth and seventh ranks should wear green; the eighth and ninth ranks should wear purple. Is cyan. There will be slight changes in the future. In addition, a horizontal lining under the robe was also a major feature of men's clothing at that time.