In the harsh summer, surfing is the most enjoyable sport, and many men love surfing. Why is this? Surfing can make people forget their worries and experience fighting against the waves and riding on the waves again and again. The thrill of surfing the waves. The following is an explanation of the development origin and current situation of surfing that I have compiled for you. I hope it can help you.
The development origin and current situation of surfing
Origin of development:
Surfing started in Australia. Because Australia is surrounded by sea, the climate is warm, with more sunshine and less sunshine. Rainy weather is conducive to the development of water sports, so Australians particularly like surfing. Long before the Europeans came here, the indigenous people here used a canoe to float on the sea. They used a small boat to rush up to the wave crest and then slide into the wave trough. This was the predecessor of surfing.
There is another theory about the origin of surfing: Surfing originated in the Hawaiian Islands, a world surfing resort in the late 1960s. In June 1970, an American surfing enthusiast and computer technician Hugh Vance designed and manufactured the world's first A sailboard with a universal joint was patented. After that, windsurfing craze quickly arose in the local area, and soon spread to Europe, Australia and Southeast Asia, and became popular in Australia.
As early as 1778, the British explorer Captain J. Cook had seen such activities among local residents in the Hawaiian Islands. After 1908, surfing spread to some European and American countries. It spread to Asia after 1960. Surfing has developed greatly in the past one or two decades. Large-scale surfing competitions have been held on the coasts of North America, Peru, Hawaii, South Africa and eastern Australia.
After the Second World War, the birth of the plastics industry produced lightweight plastic surfboards, which promoted the development of surfing. Since then, surfing has truly developed in many countries around the world. As surfing gradually became more popular and improved, its sport developed in a competitive direction. There are frequent surfing competitions in Australia. The first world championships in surfing were held in Manly, Australia, in 1962, and competitions were held every two years thereafter. The competition is mainly based on the quantity and quality of surfing completed by surfers within the specified time, using a 20-point system to score, such as surfing 3 waves in 30 minutes or 6 waves in 45 minutes, and then based on the surfer's start and finish. Scores include turns, distance traveled and difficulty of wave selection.
Surfing has created many incredible miracles, which often surprise people. In early 1986, two French athletes, Peron and Pichafan, set off from Senegal in West Africa across the Atlantic Ocean on surfboards and arrived at the French island of Delop in Central America in late February, which lasted 24 days and 12 hours.
Surfing is a very thrilling sport. Surfers need to ride on surfboards with both feet in the rough waves. Even if you are very familiar with the water and have very high skills, dangers will inevitably occur. So as surfing evolved, so did surf lifesaving.
Development status:
Surfing is an ancient culture of the Polynesians. Their chief is the most skilled wave rider in the tribe and has the best surfboards made from the best trees. The ruling class does not own the best beaches and boards; ordinary people are not allowed to enter their beaches, but people can advance through excellent surfing skills to obtain these privileges.
The first European sighting of surfing was recorded by Dolphin's crew in Tahiti in 1767. Later, Lieutenant James King also recorded the art of surfing in Captain Cook's journal when Captain Cook died in 1779.
Surfing is as much a part of Polynesian life as it is a sport in the Western world today. It influenced Polynesian society, religion, and mythology. Polynesian chiefs displayed their acrobatics on the waves as a symbol of their authority.
Decades after the discovery of this surfing game in Cork, surfing was promoted in California, United States, under the strong promotion of Haha Moku, an American Hawaiian who won the 1912 Olympic swimming championship. It is now popular in Hawaii, North America, Peru, Australia and South Africa, and has world-class surfing championships.
A water sport in which athletes stand on a surfboard, or use abdominal boards, kneeling boards, inflatable rubber mats, rowing boats, kayaks, etc. to ride the waves. No matter which equipment is used, athletes must have high skills and balance, and must be good at swimming long distances in wind and waves.
Surfing is powered by waves and must be performed on the beach with wind and waves. The height of the waves should be about 1 meter, and the minimum should be no less than 30 centimeters. The Hawaiian Islands have waves suitable for surfing all year round. Especially in winter or spring, there are waves coming from the North Pacific. The waves are as high as 4 meters and can allow athletes to glide more than 800 meters. Therefore, the Hawaiian Islands have always been the center of world surfing.
Ways to improve surfing skills
1. Find equipment that suits you
If you are average, when you sit on the board, the horizontal line reaches you If the board is too small for you, the board will be too small for you! Top players also need to spend a certain amount of time to find their own "magic board", so don't stay on the same board for too long. Always try new board styles and different sizes. Your perfect wave board is out there, but it’s up to you to find it.
2. The body should not be too stiff but should be flexible
Many people stand on the board too high when surfing. This is because the legs, hips and back are too stiff. If the body If the center of gravity cannot be lowered, you will not be able to make powerful movements. Controlling the wave board and strengthening the stretch of the body can allow you to easily lower the center of gravity of the body, straighten the back, and center the body's center of gravity on the feet.
3. Find your own wave
Too many people just paddle blindly to the outside, only to watch the wave break in front of them. Don’t do this. Before paddling out, size up the waves or find a wave area you'd love to surf. Go directly to that wave area, then head back to find a corresponding easily identifiable landmark on the shore. If you stick to surfing there, you'll be surprised how many waves you can catch.
Precautions for surfing
1. When carrying a surfboard, pay attention to the turning places
When carrying a surfboard, pay attention to the turning places and place it gently on the ground. When placing it on the sand, cover the surfboard with sand to prevent it from being blown away by the wind.
2. The angle of holding the surfboard in your hand should be in a straight line
When walking out towards the beach with the surfboard in your hand, the angle of holding the surfboard in your hand should be in a straight line. Never place the wave board in front of your body to prevent the waves from hitting the wave board and hitting your body.
3. When surfing, avoid direct impact of the surfboard on the rocks
When the surfboard washes back to the shore from the open sea and is about 30 cm deep, please get off the board immediately to avoid Hit the stone directly. When the surfboard collides with the waves, be sure not to pull the safety leg rope and the surfboard with your hands to avoid injury to your hands.
4. When surfing, please pay attention to the distance between each surfer
When surfing, please keep the distance between each person on the sea two surfboards long.
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