Choose a house with guaranteed water source, convenient irrigation and drainage, leeward and sunny, and close to the discharge port of biogas digester to build a pool. The size of the pool should be adapted to local conditions, with a general area of10 ~ 20m 2 and a depth of1.2m. The wall of the pool is made of stones or bricks and plastered with cement. And build a special entrance and exit, and set up barbed wire at the entrance and exit to prevent loach from escaping. Shading shed should be built above, and insect traps should be set up.
(2) Clean the disinfection pool and stock loach seedlings.
Use 0.22kg of quicklime per cubic meter of pool water, spray quicklime evenly and disinfect the whole pool water while it is hot, check the pH value of the pool water, or observe the activity of Daphnia, or put dozens of loaches into a bundled box installed in the pool water for trial cultivation. If the loach lives normally in the box 1 day, it can be released. Artificial breeding or wild loach seedlings can be used for feeding, and loach seedlings should be harmless, disease-free and healthy. Soak in 3% ~ 4% salt solution for 8 minutes before stocking. It is advisable to stock 80 ~ 100 loaches with a body length of 3 ~ 4 cm per square meter, and the stocking specifications should not be too different to avoid overeating.
(3) Reasonable feeding and timely water change.
Misgurnus anguillicaudatus is an omnivorous fish. In the process of feeding, in addition to using biogas residue and biogas slurry to cultivate natural plankton bait, we can also feed palatable snails and earthworms, as well as bean curd residue, rice bran, wine residue, stems and leaves of tender plants and so on. The ratio of daily feeding amount to the total weight of loach is: March 1%, April-June 4%, July-August 10%, September 4%- 10%. Four principles should be adhered to in feeding: positioning, setting a bait table in the pool and putting the bait on the bait table; Feed 1 time in the morning and evening at regular intervals; Determine the quality, the feed in the pond should be fresh and free from rot and mildew; Quantitative, 2 ~ 3 hours after feeding. According to the water quality of the pond, biogas residue and biogas slurry are put in turn, with 250g biogas residue and 500g biogas slurry per square meter, once a week/kloc-0. In the feeding cycle, the feeding lamp is powered on at night to attract insects as supplementary feeding for loach fish. Always observe the change of water quality in the pool, and the water quality is generally yellow-green. If the loach is found to jump out of the water, it means that the water in the pool is too fat and the water is short of oxygen. It is necessary to inject new water in time and release old water. Especially in sultry or thunderstorm weather, we should pay more attention to injecting fresh water frequently and increasing oxygen in time. If conditions permit, an aerator can be installed to increase oxygen to prevent the loach from dying.
(4) Prevention of diseases and enemy injuries
Common diseases are dermatomycosis and fin rot. Ill loach can be bathed in 10 ~ 15 μ g/ml antibiotic solution for 10 min, or sprayed with 1 mg/L bleaching powder (containing 25% ~ 30% of available chlorine) in the whole pool. Common parasites are rotifers and calicivirus. These parasites parasitic on loach fry will lead to death, and sick fish will have symptoms such as increased body mucus, wandering alone, floating on the water, loss of appetite and so on. At this time, the mucus on the body surface of the diseased fish should be examined by microscope in time. About 50 rotifers or tongue cups can be observed under low magnification, and 0.7 mg/L copper sulfate solution can be sprinkled all over the pool water. For rats and snakes, we should often patrol the pool to prevent them.