Tang women's jackets, jackets and other tops are common clothes for all classes. Yuan Zhen's poem "Lotus root silk shirt and lotus root silk skirt", Zhang You's poem "Where the mandarin duck embroidered belt is thrown, the peacock Luo shirt is thrown to that", Ouyang Jiong's poem "The red-sleeved girl attracts each other". Judging from these verses, it is very common for women in the Tang Dynasty to wear undershirts and shirts, and they like red, light red or light ocher, light green and other colors, plus the gold and silver colors of "the leaves of the shirt are heavily embroidered, and there are clusters of golden phoenixes and silver geese" Embroidered as decoration, the appearance is even more beautiful.
The collar of the jacket is divided into "cross collar" and "double lapel". The collar of the cross-collar jacket is like a "Y" shape, with the right lapel inside and the left lapel outside, and the left lapel is tightened at the right waist. The double-breasted jacket is symmetrical from left to right, and is gathered in the middle of the waist. The middle gap exposes the cross-collar lining or myrobalan (i.e. tube top) inside. Most of the half-arms of the jacket and the collar of the jacket are double lapels.
The cuffs of the jacket are divided into "narrow sleeves" and "wide sleeves". The lower-class women among the people mostly wear narrow sleeves, which is no different from modern times; the upper-class nobles wear convenient narrow sleeves and gorgeous and elegant wide sleeves.
Women wear skirts. Most skirt fabrics are silk fabrics, but the materials used vary, and usually multiple pieces are better. The materials, colors and styles of skirts in the Tang Dynasty were much better than those of the previous dynasties. They were so beautiful and colorful. For example, many skirt styles mentioned in Tang poems include: "The Immortal first wore a Cuixia skirt", "Lotus leaf skirt cut in one color", "Two people lift up the hidden flower skirt", "Bamboo leaf skirt", "Blue gauze skirt" ", "New neon moonlight skirt", etc. The colors of skirts in the Tang Dynasty were as colorful as one wanted, mostly deep red, apricot, purple, moon-green, and turquoise. Among them, pomegranate color has been popular for the longest time. Li Bai's "eyebrows despise willow leaves, skirts jealous of pomegranate flowers." Wan Chu Wuyou "eyebrows with black eyebrows capture the color of day lilies, red skirts jealous of pomegranate flowers." Its wide range of popularity can be seen from "Yanjing May Song" , "The pomegranate flowers are blooming in the streets and are about to burn, and the branches and branches are all falling into the clouds. Thousands of households can't buy them all, and the only thing left is to dye the daughter's red skirt." The biggest feature of the pomegranate skirt is that the skirt is high and covered with a short jacket. The width, narrowness and length of the two are in sharp contrast. "The leaves of Luo's shirt are heavily embroidered, with a trace of gold, phoenix and silver goose each." "The eyebrows with black eyebrows capture the color of daylilies, and the red skirt kills the pomegranate flowers with jealousy." The skirts of the Tang Dynasty were colorful, with red, purple, yellow and green competing for beauty, with the red skirt being the most beautiful. The popularity of red skirts on the street is not exclusive to modern people. As early as the prosperous Tang Dynasty, dance skirts were already dyed with pomegranate flowers everywhere.
Women in the Tang Dynasty wore shoes, boots, clogs, etc. on their feet. The shoes are made of brocade, linen, silk, damask and other fabrics. There are also straws made of cattail grass. The body of the shoes is often decorated with embroidery, and the shoes have various head shapes, including round heads, high heads, cloud shapes, flower shapes, etc., as mentioned in Tang poems: "cloud-head shoes for stepping on the palace", "golden ruffled heavy platform shoes", "clump-head shoes" Red is thinner" etc. The boots are mostly made of brocade, which is well woven and beautifully decorated. Clogs are worn barefoot in summer, which is popular among folk women. As Li Bai's poem goes: "The feet on the clogs are like frost, without crow's head socks."
The "Old Book of Tang Dynasty's Clothing Records" records that "someone may have her husband's clothes, boots, and shirts, but the dignity and inferiority of both men and women are consistent." It has clearly recorded the scene of women wearing men's clothing. "New Tang Book of Five Elements" records, "Gaozong was having an internal banquet. Princess Taiping had a violet jade belt and Zaoluo folded her scarf. She sang and danced in front of the emperor with seven different things. The emperor and the queen laughed and said, 'Women cannot be military officers. Why are you dressed like this? '"
The trend of women wearing men's clothing was especially popular during the Kaiyuan and Tianbao years of the Tang Dynasty. "Zhonghua Ancient and Modern Notes" records, "In the Tianbao year, the wife of a scholar wore her husband's boots, shirt, whip and hat, and the inside and outside were integrated." "New Tang Book Li Shizhuan" records, "I heard that there are two golden birds and brocade robes in the ban. In the past, Xuanzong was lucky enough to wear the clothes of Concubine Yang. "It can be seen that it was quite common for women to imitate men's clothes and wear men's clothes at that time.
The costume patterns of the Tang Dynasty changed the past creative thinking based on talent and divine inspiration, and used real flowers, grass, fish, and insects for sketching. However, the traditional dragon and phoenix patterns were not rejected. It is also determined by the influence of the divine right of imperial power. At this time, the design of clothing patterns tended to express free, plump and fat artistic styles.
"New Book of Tang Dynasty·Cars and Clothes" records the fancy styles of civilian official uniforms, including luan holding a long ribbon, crane holding Ganoderma lucidum, magpie holding auspicious grass, wild goose holding majestic ceremony, handsome falcon holding flowers, and rehmannia intertwining branches. etc. names.
The clothing patterns in the late Tang Dynasty were more exquisite and beautiful.
The flower and bird clothing patterns, edge patterns, and flower patterns on the soft silk clothing are really a cluster of flowers, competing for beauty and beauty. As Wang Jian of the Five Dynasties said: "The leaves of the Luo shirt are heavily embroidered, with a cluster of golden phoenixes and silver geese each dancing in two directions. Among them are the words "Long Live Peace". Today, these luxurious and beautiful clothing patterns we see are the result of painters' The Dunhuang Grottoes used hard work to preserve precious image materials for future generations. The development of clothing in the Tang Dynasty was an overall development. At this time, the design of clothing patterns tended to express freedom, fullness, gorgeousness, and roundness. The expressions in shoes, hats, scarves, jade pendants, hairstyles, makeup, and jewelry all illustrate this Features.
The Tang Dynasty inherited the styles of the Zhou, Warring States, and Wei and Jin periods, integrating the rigor of the Zhou Dynasty’s clothing pattern design, the stretch of the Warring States period, the brightness of the Han Dynasty, and the elegance of the Wei and Jin Dynasties. On this basis, it became more luxurious, bringing the costumes and costume patterns to a historical peak; the influence of the costumes and costume patterns of the Tang Dynasty on future generations continues to this day. The application of branch-tangled patterns in modern clothing patterns demonstrates the connotation resulting from the combination of traditional patterns and modern aesthetic consciousness.