Goldluminor perpetual calendar (model: PAM00742)
Panerai introduced tourbillon, chronograph, time equation and minute repeater in the past, but never published a perpetual calendar. Why?
Because Panerai, which started as a military watch, is not suitable for making the panel too complicated in order to maintain the design style of the watch, but it is also a necessary evil of the perpetual calendar function. So until today, Panerai has launched the first perpetual calendars, luminor perpetual calendars PAM 007 15 and PAM00742, which adopt Panerai's exclusive Platinumtech case and Goldtech red gold case respectively, with green and blue solar radiation dials, with a diameter of 44mm and waterproof performance of 50 meters.
At first glance, Luminor calendar is like a watch with two positions. There is a 12 hour time pointer in the center of the dial, and with the day and night display pointer coaxial with the small second hand at nine o'clock, the second time can be clearly read. When the small second hand is pulled to the second section of the crown, the pointer will instantly return to zero and stop the operation of the balance wheel, which is convenient for users to adjust the time.
In addition, Panerai put the month and the four-digit AD year window on the back of the watch, that is, the movement splint, so users can only see the relevant information when they take off the watch. But most people won't forget what year it is now, so this design conforms to the usage habit and keeps the simple style of Panerai's first generation.
However, the new Luminor calendar does not use manual winding movement, but uses P.4 100 automatic winding movement with eccentric miniature automatic disc, which only accounts for about one third of the movement area, so the space on the splint is larger, and it can be used to place leap year month indication, AD year window and disc power display, which makes the watch have more display functions, but it is easy to read.
Luminor platinum perpetual calendar watch (model: PAM007 15)
The new P.4 100 automatic movement used in the factory is a big modification of the original P.4000 miniature automatic disc movement, which also has double clockwork boxes and 72-hour power reserve. But the diameter is from 13? The score (3 1mm) is expanded to 15? The score is (35. 1mm), and the thickness of the movement has also increased from 3.95mm to 7mm, so it should be regarded as a brand-new movement strictly, except that some parts are shared with the P.4000 series automatic movement, such as clockwork and some gear trains, as well as two-arm horizontal balance bridge and escapement mechanism.
However, the overall thickness of P.4 100 automatic movement with complex perpetual calendar function is similar to that of ordinary automatic chronograph movement, and it will not be too heavy in a 44mm Luminor case. This time, two Luminor perpetual calendars limited to exclusive stores use two exclusive patent case materials.
Among them, the limited edition of 100 is Platinumtech PAM007 15, which is matched with a green solar radiation dial. This special material was previously used on the 70-year-old Pam 0116 wristwatch. By changing the proportion of metal components in platinum, the manufacturer makes Platinumtech platinum harder and harder.
As for the earlier high-tech red gold material, it is used in PAM00742 with a limited number of 270 pieces. Gaode Red Gold, which also belongs to the patent of this factory, makes the metal more ruddy and bright by increasing the proportion of copper, and also adds a little platinum to enhance the oxidation resistance of the metal. Panerai chose to use a blue solar radiation dial with a Golder red gold case to enhance the recognition and beauty of the watch through excellent contrast colors.