History of the development of the embroidery industry
China's embroidery art has a long history. As early as ancient times, it was born along with jade, pottery and fabrics.
Embroidery is the use of colored silk, velvet, and cotton threads to pierce silk, satin, hemp, cloth and other base fabrics with the help of needle movement to form patterns, images or words. It is called " "needle" or "female red".
Embroidery is the sister art of painting. Therefore, "Zhou Li·Kao Gong Ji" lists embroidery within painting. It believes that "the five colors are prepared, it is called embroidery" and approves the artistic status of embroidery. .
The original embroidery was juxtaposed with the beautiful silk brocade, collectively called "brocade".
This shows from another level its craftsmanship and cultural nature that combines practicality and aesthetics, as well as its long history.
In the five thousand years of civilization history of the Chinese nation, inventions and creations that shine with the light of human wisdom, like a string of gems, have won praise from all over the world. Among them, embroidery is at the forefront. It was developed based on the discovery and utilization of "silk". It not only enriches and enriches people's material life, but is also a high-level spiritual enjoyment.
From sewing to embroidery. Embroidery as a handicraft is developed on the basis of general sewing. From threading a needle to sewing clothes, it is a great progress in human civilization. Archaeological excavation data proves that as early as 18,000 years ago, the cavemen of the Upper Paleolithic Age in my country had used bone needles to sew animal skins. In the Neolithic Age, more than 7,000 years ago, the Hemudu people not only used bone needles, but also weaved. Patterned kudzu fabrics were unearthed from the Cao Xie Mountain site in Wuxian, Jiangsu, and silk sheets, silk threads, ribbons and ramie cloth were unearthed from the Qianshanyang site in Wuxing, Zhejiang, proving that China's silk weaving has developed to a new stage.
"The thread is in the hands of a loving mother, and the clothes are on the body of a wanderer." China's agricultural society, which lasted for more than three thousand years, not only established a farming-oriented ideology, but also established a system in which men farmed and women weaved. Girls must learn spinning, weaving, tailoring and sewing from a very young age, and embroidery is closely related to this. In the past, in areas south of the Yangtze River, such as Suzhou, there was a profession called "embroiderer" who taught embroidery to the daughters of wealthy families. They not only have to embroider their own dowry, but also make many embroidered handicrafts (such as purses, sweat towels, etc.) to give to the man's relatives and friends when they get married. Therefore, embroidery has become a standard for measuring the bride's ingenuity.
There is a ditty in folk songs from all over China called "Embroidered Purse", which roughly means: A young woman was at home, and suddenly she heard a dog barking, and someone sent a letter from her husband who was away from home, asking for her. She embroidered a purse to wear. She went to the salesman with joy and eagerness to buy silk, choose threads, tell stories about gods and beauties of the world. ...She almost wanted to embroider all the Chinese culture into her purse to express her love for her husband. By the time she finished embroidering the purse bag, it was dawn and the messenger had arrived. The story is not tortuous, but the emotions are natural, sincere and touching. For thousands of years, Chinese folk embroidery has developed on this basis.
The origin of Chinese textile technology can be traced back to the Late Paleolithic Age. The emergence of sericulture, silk reeling and silk weaving also occurred later in the Neolithic Age, about seven or eight thousand years ago. "Emperor Picture Summary" records: "Fuxi transformed silkworms, and Xilingshi originated silkworms." Fuxi and Xilingshi are both characters in ancient legends. In myths and legends, Leizu, the daughter of Xilingshi and the wife of the Yellow Emperor, was the one who raised silkworms and cured silk. Creator. After the Northern Zhou Dynasty, he was worshiped as "Xian Silkworm" (Silkworm God). The book "The Classic of Mountains and Seas" records: "In the Wilderness of Ousi, east of Dayu, a woman knelt and leaned against the tree silk." "Yi Shi·Emperor's Internal Classic" records, "The Yellow Emperor beheaded Chiyou, and the Silkworm God offered silk, which was called Zhiwei." record of his merits. In 1926, a basically complete but cut silkworm cocoon was discovered in the Neo-Ancient Age site in Huituling, Xiyin Village, Xia County, Shanxi Province. These legends and objects illustrate the situation of raising silkworms, reeling and weaving silk in primitive society. Reeling and weaving silk is the prerequisite for embroidery. With the further development of social productivity, primitive society gradually transformed into a slave society. The dresses of the hosts in various sacrificial activities were embroidered with patterns of various colors and patterns, so there is " The beauty of literary embroidery". "Taiping Yulan" quotes a passage from "Tai Gong Liu Tao": "During the time of Xia Jie and Shang Dynasty, there were women sitting and eating on the splendid embroidery, and there were often three hundred people wearing silk damask." This shows that the scale of embroidery is quite impressive.
Legend has it that during the time of Yu and Shun, there were skilled craftsmen who "worked on embroidery mountains and gods". The "Yu Book·Yiji Chapter" in "The Book of Books" is based on the words of Emperor Yu: "I want to see the images of the ancients, the meeting of dragons, flowers and insects on the sun, moon, stars, mountains, Zongyi algae, fire powder rice embroidery, and the five colors are displayed on it. Five colors, for clothing. "Hui means painting; Zong Yi refers to the tiger statue and Zun embroidered in the time of Yu and Shun; algae means algae; fire means flames; powdered rice, powder is like millet ice, rice is like poly rice; , embroidered images on ancient dresses. The axe-shaped pattern is half black and half white; the pattern of two bows facing each other on ancient dresses is half green and half black; embroidery refers to the embroidery on the thin kudzu. This shows that people have used the sun, moon, stars, mountain dragons, and Chinese insects from the natural world and the animal world to draw them on their clothes, and used Zongyi, algae, fire, and rice flour used in daily life as embroidery patterns. These logos and patterns were adopted by emperors of all dynasties in later feudal society, and were supplemented to form the form of crown uniforms. The book "The Book of Songs", "Tang Feng", "Qin Feng", "Bin Feng" contains: "plain clothes with Zhu embroidery", "Yi embroidered with Shang", "exquisite clothes with embroidered Shang", etc., which describe Guizhou at that time They wore gorgeous embroidered clothes, which also revealed the general development of embroidery craftsmanship at that time. In the Zhou Dynasty, there was a saying that "the work of painting and embroidery has its own job". From the Western Zhou Dynasty to the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, Qingxu Prefecture (today's Shandong) was known as "Thousands of Miles of Mulberry" and "The Crown, the Clothes, and the World". With the popularity of the textile printing and dyeing industry, embroidery technology came into being and developed accordingly. Guanzi's "Qingshong B Chapter" said that "a woman must have a knife, a vertebra, a needle, and a (long needle)"; Mozi also said: women work in literature and work in the fields. "Needle" and "" both It is a tool used for sewing, weaving and embroidery. "Wencai" refers to painting and embroidery. In addition, it is recorded in "Historical Records": "The King of Chuzhuang loved horses, and his clothes were embroidered with Wen, and he kept them in his luxurious house." Another evidence that dyeing and weaving embroidery was already popular among the upper class at that time is that the embroidery objects that have survived to this day include the fragments of braided embroidery unearthed from the Jingji tomb in the Western Zhou Dynasty in Baoji, and the Mukuo tomb of the Warring States Period in Changsha Martyrs Park. Two pieces of dragon and phoenix embroidered silk, four braided embroidery pieces unearthed from Tomb No. 3, and fragments of embroidered silk found in Chu Tomb No. 406. In recent years, there have been new archaeological discoveries in Jiangling, Hubei, Xinyang, Henan and other places, especially the Jiangling horse. The embroidered dragon and phoenix silk quilts, white silk phoenix quilts, dragon, phoenix and tiger robes, phoenix brocade robes, as well as sachets, mirror cases, pillow bags, baggage and other embroidered items unearthed from the Chu tomb No. Dragons, phoenixes, tigers, snakes, as well as patterns, flowers, geometric shapes, figures, etc. The images are vigorous, vivid and smooth, and they are extremely precious, and the embroidery works that we can see today are not easy to preserve. The embroidery of the Yin, Shang and Western Zhou dynasties is a trace that adheres to the soil. The lines of the silk fabric and the embroidery patterns are vaguely visible. The patterns embroidered with single threads used the "braided strand" stitching method of the Warring States Period. Embroidery is very complex in terms of the unearthed objects. The embroidered quilt (quilt) and Zen (single) clothes unearthed from the Chu tomb in Mashan, Jiangling, Hubei in 1982 were embroidered with dragons, phoenixes, tigers and flowers, with distinct patterns. The interlacing is very vivid. Although the "braided strand" stitching method is mainly used, its expressiveness has been significantly improved
The embroidery craftsmanship of the Tang and Song Dynasties has been greatly developed. "Qin Zhongyin" by Bai Juyi. The poem reads: "The rich girl in the Red Mansion is decorated with gold and embroidered ruffles. "Tang Cui Lingqin's "Jiaofang Ji" said: The dance clothes used in the performance of "Sheng Shoule" during the Kaiyuan Dynasty were all embroidered with large flowers. Su E's "Du Yang Zabian" records: When Princess Tongchang got married, there were divine embroidered quilts. It is embroidered with three thousand mandarin ducks and interspersed with exotic flowers and plants. According to legend, in the palace of Emperor Xuanzong, there were more than 700 workers weaving and embroidering clothes for Concubine Yang. Landlords rushed to build Buddhist statues and chant Buddhist scriptures in an attempt to become a Buddha and live a happy life forever. This influence also penetrated into the field of embroidery crafts: "The first year of Yongzhen (AD 805)." ) Lu Meiniang, a tribute girl from the South China Sea, was able to embroider seven volumes of the Lotus Sutra on ruler silk. "There are records of three things about embroidering Buddha in "Bai Letian Collection". There is also a sentence in Du Fu's poem: "Su Jin Changzhai embroidered in front of Buddha". The above documents illustrate that my country's embroidery technology has developed to the Tang Dynasty, and has been embroidered on general clothing. Various custom embroidery of flowers, birds, grass and insects has advanced to the level of purely ornamental embroidery. The techniques of adding gold and silver, beading and blending colors are also very high, as can be seen from the embroidery found in the underground palace of Famen Temple in Fufeng County, Shaanxi Province in recent years. We can also get a glimpse of the embroidery skills of that time in embroidery such as dresses and embroidered cassocks. Here we should also mention the "Embroidery Fu" written by Zhang Sui of Liang Dynasty, which describes the excellent tradition and superb skills of embroidery. "Looking for the ingenuity of creation, solidifying the decoration into hundreds of skills, don't start with embroidery first."
"When describing the embroidery production process at that time, he said: "If you look at the embroidery and follow it, the turtle and dragon will become the text, and the gods will become the image. There are five colors in total, which are extremely thoughtful, and I use Luo Wan to express my thoughts. "This is a good motto that praises embroidery in a literary form. Zhang Shu used his unique emotional artistic language to praise the superb embroidery world and the realistic content it expresses: "It has the shape of all things, and it is as beautiful as ever. They are transformed into shapes, which are both brocade and dense, densely illuminated and sparsely bright, like flowers blooming in the spring, mixed with green pines and fragrant flowers. "What's most valuable is that he also satirized those "daughters of Handan and young men from Wanluo" who used these silk embroideries, "looking at the shadow to flatter themselves, looking into the mirror to pity themselves, wearing the most beautiful car and horse, and all the charm of their clothes". The exquisite embroidery art dedicates sympathy and praise to the folk artists engaged in embroidery. "Xiu Fu" can be said to artistically record the high achievements and influence of embroidery at that time from one side.
I am very impressed. Wow!
In short - the development history of the embroidery industry is: hand embroidery - motorcycle embroidery - computer embroidery
Various embroidery machines:
Sequin embroidery , rope embroidery, towel embroidery, flat embroidery and other sewing equipment