Watch fans who are familiar with Rolex must know very well that Rolex has basically never produced a watch with a transparent bottom. Note that we said "basically not".
Strictly speaking, it is not that Rolex has never produced a watch with a trainspotter, but many people just don't know it.
Although Rolex has many product lines, it can basically be divided into two categories: oyster perpetual and cellini.
"Oyster Style" is the most familiar look of Rolex. The Oyster Style, which was born in 1926, can be said to have made great contributions to Rolex, and the watch styles of Rolex are basically based on Oyster Style.
one of the characteristics of oyster style is the screw-in bottom cover with dense bottom. What kind of watch is cellini?
At that time, Rolex achieved great success in the tool watch (that is, the "oyster style"), and then thought that its own brand didn't seem to have a formal watch in the strict sense, so it designed the cellini series, and Rolex's only through-the-bottom watch was the Prince model of the cellini series.
It is said that Rolex salespeople were bursting with confidence at that time, and everyone thought that the listing of Prince cellini would be particularly popular.
In fact, contrary to expectations, Prince cellini has been given a cold shoulder since his birth, and many people have never even heard of it.
There is no denying that Prince cellini is an excellent watch, and collectors highly admire it, but why is it unpopular? In fact, not only Prince cellini, but also the whole cellini series is not well regarded by fans.
Because people basically go to buy Rolex in oyster style.
In addition, Prince cellini's through-the-wall design increases the cost, and this cost is naturally paid by consumers, which is definitely not happy for consumers.
then there will be fans asking, can't oyster style be made into a bottomless one?
I think in this way, the oyster style will no longer be that oyster style, and whether it can be accepted by fans has to be said.
In fact, at present, Rolex is just like tradition without making a through-the-bottom watch. Although some people say that a mechanical watch can't see the movement, it's like a "night trip", but for Rolex, it has successfully established a brand image, and it doesn't need to cater to the world.
in today's transparent bezel, Rolex is like a "clean stream".
On the other hand, it can also be said that it is a big selling point of Rolex not to go to the bottom. You should know that "being different" is a good publicity stunt for luxury goods.
Rolex: You see, other brands are making through-the-bottom watches, but we just don't make them, because we are awesome!
because Rolex is an oyster case.
Oyster style refers to the design of integrated molded case, screw-in bottom cover and screw-in handle invented by Rolex, that is, oyster, which means "oyster" in English. This structure is different from the welded ear, press-in bottom cover and plug-in handle at that time, and it also symbolizes that Rolex watches are as strong and waterproof as oysters.
Simply put, the whole machine is made of steel cutting lathe, and the watch case is integrated. It is much stronger than the popular welded watch ear at that time. The bottom lock handle, the back cover and the watch handle are all locked by gongs. (The upper ring of the earliest structure is also locked.) It is well waterproof.
"Oyster" means oyster case, and oyster is oyster.
the origin of oyster case dates back to October 3th, 1925, when German craftsmen Paul Penegaux and Georges Peret invented a crown patent (patent code: 114948) in La Saud, which was a crown sealing technology to prevent moisture from entering the case. The spring and solenoid were used to substantially prevent moisture from entering the case from the crown for the first time.
Later, Mr. Hans, the founder of Rolex, persuaded them to transfer the patent, and re-applied the patent originally applied in Switzerland in Britain, using Hans' name, patent number 26554. The name "Oyster Style" came from Hans' accidental inspiration when he opened an oyster lid at a dinner. On July 29, 1926, he registered the name in Switzerland and registered it in London two months later. On February 28th, 1927, Hans randomly registered the names of Oyster in four different languages, namely Huitre (French), Auster (German), Ostica (Italian) and Ostra (Spanish).
Oyster case is composed of four parts. The outer frame is octagonal, and a cylindrical screw barrel is sleeved inside. The upper ring and the back cover are connected with this screw barrel by rotating and locking. Then, melodic death metal has two sealing rings made of soft metal on the octagonal outer frame, and the upper frame and the back cover are respectively arranged to increase the tightness. The crown is locked and connected by another small screw barrel connected with the outer shell. The space inside the metal case is completely occupied, and all the residual air is squeezed out. When the case is closed and the crown is locked, there is no air in the whole case, and there is no chance for moisture to enter, thus achieving excellent waterproof and dustproof effects.
This explains why Rolex has no back. There are gains and losses. In order to be waterproof and dustproof, it is natural that the metal case formed by such integrated cutting can not be made through.
that's it.
Reading Rolex watches, as the name suggests, and as its trademark-Crown trademark, are symbols of kingliness and domineering. Therefore, this is consistent with the high-end table it produces. Its products and brand culture just fit the target customers. Some watch fans say that Rolex has no back-penetrating movement, so I'll take you to study the mystery of Rolex's back-penetrating watch. Why has Rolex never been back-penetrating since then? I can't see how the movement can identify Rolex.
The uniqueness of Rolex Prince cellini series
Only Prince cellini series of Rolex has a back-penetrating watch, and it is gradually known by many people. This Rolex watch was launched in the 192s, but it was stopped in the late 194s for various reasons. As a representative of elegance and exquisiteness, Prince cellini's advanced rectangular shape had excellent timing at that time, and had a good reputation in the industry. Five different styles, the timeless and classic Prince cellini watch has been sought after by many collectors.
The collection value of the Rolex Prince cellini series
Rolex back-through watches are very rare, so it is doomed to be expensive. In the current second-hand trading market, whether online or even in some entity's specialty stores, if it is said that Rolex watches are transparent, in fact, many of them are high imitation products, so as to confuse the genuine with the genuine. Just from its price, it can actually be roughly distinguished. The real Prince cellini, the market price has already exceeded two million yuan. In the Rolex family, it is already "priceless". Simply put, Prince cellini has become a real collection craze and is appreciating year by year.
Why Rolex no longer makes back-penetrating movements
1) Brand positioning: Deep waterproof
Since then, Rolex has never produced back-penetrating movements in mass production (except for a few rare limited-edition customized versions) because Rolex has since positioned itself as a waterproof and dustproof oyster case. Oyster style refers to the design of integrated molded case, screw-in bottom cover and screw-in handle invented by Rolex, that is, oyster, which means "oyster" in English. This structure is different from the welded ear, press-in bottom cover and plug-in handle at that time, and also symbolizes that Rolex watches are as strong, waterproof and dustproof as oysters. Rolex diving has always maintained a leading position in the world, and the first thing that comes to mind is that the series of divers, sea angels and water ghosts are all models.
2) In terms of firmness,
sapphire crystal glass is generally used as the back of a watch. As we all know, although sapphire crystal glass is wear-resistant and scratch-resistant, it is more suitable for making a watch mirror, and you can see the dial timing. Rolex watches pay more attention to the firmness of the watch, especially the back. If sapphire crystal glass is used as the back, it can't meet the high pressure of deep diving, and it's simply not enough.
3) From the cost point of view,
For Rolex watches, the classic style and low price are the most talked about places. The watches that Rolex sells the most every year are the most basic ones, but the platinum cases, diamonds and other watches are not the best-selling hot models. Therefore, there is no need to spend the production cost on the diamond-encrusted and polished back-transparent movement. Unlike Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe's first-line brand is famous for its antique watches. In order to highlight the beautiful mechanical sense of the movement, it is necessary to design the back-transparent movement.
If it is made into a transparent watch, the movement should be polished beautifully and decorated. Although it looks good, it will inevitably increase a lot of costs, and the price will naturally be much higher. In fact, there is no basic model to sell. After all, there is a value gap between Rolex brands and top Patek Philippe brands, and the product positioning is different. It is wise to give play to your strengths.
How to identify the authenticity of a Rolex without opening the shell
It's easy to identify the authenticity by shaking it
(It's as simple as expert identification)
Shake the Rolex watch horizontally and listen to the sound close to your ear quickly. The obvious sound is fake, and the extremely inconspicuous or inaudible sound is genuine.
Identification tips:
The reason is very simple: Rolex watches are basically automatic mechanical watches, and manual winding is very rare. Since it is automatic, there is an indispensable thing called automatic tuo, which is a pendulum. When it is thrown hard, it will turn, and when it turns, it will drive the gear to wind the mechanical watch. So far, only Rolex has not used ball bearings, and the setting of ball bearings is bound to make noise, especially the low-end mechanical movement in Japan, which is the most famous and noisy in a flash. Rolex, on the other hand, uses a different structure, and after shaking hard, it is almost impossible to hear the sound, and a fake watch can't do this unless he takes down the automatic trailer, but then it will become a manual mechanical watch, and it can't be simulated. (It's as simple as that for an expert. I can tell by listening to the sounds of dozens of watches every day.)
However, at present, the movements of high-end watches are basically the same, and it is not enough to listen to the sounds. Such watches should be judged comprehensively with details such as the mirror of the shell, and a Rolex appraisal coup will be written later. Please pay attention to
a person who spends every day in the pile of watches
a senior professional and can.