With the development of science, there are many kinds of sheep wool fibers in the world. However, the main properties such as moisture absorption, warmth retention and comfort are not comparable to wool. Wool fiber is a slender cylindrical object, which consists of scale layer, cortex and medulla layer. Due to the directionality of scales, wool fibers have good shrinkage under certain conditions of damp heat and soapy liquid, as well as under the kneading action of mechanical external force. The diameter of wool fiber is within 18 ~ 42 microns. The finer the fiber, the higher the spinnability, the higher the relative strength, the higher the curl and the better the elasticity. ? Ultra-fine Merino wool Ultra-fine Merino sheep comes from Australia's high-quality wool-Merino sheep. This is a unique fine wool variety cultivated in Australia after 200 years of breeding and improvement. Coarse wool clothes will feel itchy when put on, and superfine merino wool is the finest wool. For example, human hair is 50-60 microns, and the best merino wool can reach 1 1.7 microns. Usually we use 19.5 micron or less, cashmere 13- 15 micron, mohair 25-30 micron, cotton 10- 14.4 micron and silk 12 micron. This wool sweater is not only elastic, but also very soft and delicate, and it is quite comfortable to wear. Its noble price and feel, second only to cashmere, are destined to be the top grade of all wool products. ? Cashmere fiber cashmere sweater is the best kind of animal fiber, which is mainly produced in goats growing in semi-desert areas with large temperature difference and long sunshine in northwest China. Because of its scarce output and excellent quality, it is known as "soft gold". Cashmere is a kind of pure natural hollow fiber, much thinner than wool, and the scales outside are more charming and smoother than wool. So it is light in weight, soft and good in toughness. It is light, soft and smooth, and it is very comfortable to wear next to the body. It is unmatched by any other fiber. Cashmere differs from wool. Wool grows on sheep and cashmere grows on goats. The annual cashmere yield of a cashmere goat is only 150g~200g, and the average fineness of cashmere is mostly 15~ 16 micron. Cashmere is superior to wool in tensile strength and elastic deformation, and has the characteristics of thinness, lightness, softness and good warmth retention. Cashmere fiber is obtained by combing and scraping the fluff under goat's long hair. Villus fiber is composed of scale layer and cortex, without medullary layer. Its average fineness is 15 ~ 16 micron, which is the smallest among wool fibers. The tensile strength and elastic deformation of cashmere are better than those of sheep wool, so cashmere is a precious raw material with excellent characteristics such as softness, waxy smoothness and good warmth retention. What's more commendable is that it has natural colors, among which white cashmere is the most famous? Mohair is a goat native to Angola. Wool fiber is coarse and belongs to coarse fluff. The surface scales are few and dull, and the fiber looks shiny and silver, with excellent elasticity, which is obviously superior to wool and has a noble style. ? Rabbit hair fiber Rabbit hair is the hair fiber cut from the hair rabbit. Rabbit hair fiber is white, shiny, soft, waxy and slippery, and has good warmth retention. The average fiber fineness is 10 ~ 15 micron. The scales on the surface of rabbit hair are arranged very tightly, without curling, and the fibers are bulky, which is not suitable for pure spinning. Generally, wool, nylon and acrylic are blended. ? Camel hair fiber camel hair fiber is actually the fluff combed out by the two-humped camel when it is depilated. Wool fiber is slender, natural in color and light brown. Very soft, especially good warmth retention and high strength. Not suitable for pure spinning raw materials, most of them are high count wool blended. ? Acrylic fiber (polyacrylonitrile fiber) acrylic fiber has unique and excellent characteristics very similar to wool, with soft hand feeling, good bulkiness and good elasticity. It feels and looks like wool, so it is called "artificial wool". Good dyeing performance, bright color and strong warmth retention. ? Wool is generally made of acrylic fiber, viscose and other chemical fibers or man-made fibers in a certain proportion. It can combine the advantages of both and reduce the cost. ? Flat needle, also known as weft flat needle, is a single-sided needle. Knitting needle arrangement: knitting flat knitted fabric on a single needle bed with full needles. The fabric has great lateral extensibility and curl, and the coil is easy to fall off after fracture. ? Siping weave, also known as rib fabric, belongs to the rib category of 1+ 1 rib and 2+2 rib. Knitting on a double needle bed, all triangles enter the work and the knitting depth is the same. Knitting arrangement: the front and rear needle beds are full of needles. ? 1+ 1 rib structure is also called single rib. Suitable for neckline, cuffs and hem. ? 2+2 rib weave has a high degree of lateral extensibility and elasticity, and its extensibility is half that of flat knitted fabric. ? Siping idling structure, also known as ribbed air layer structure, is a composite structure of ribbed structure and flat needle structure. Features: the front and back plain needles are not connected, and they are overhead, thicker than rib needles, with good warmth retention, small lateral extensibility and stable shape. ? Tuck stitch single needle bed fabric, also known as plain needle fat flower. Rings can form a variety of patterns such as mesh patterns, concave-convex patterns, color patterns and so on. Because of the existence of long loops, the strength of the fabric will be affected and it is easy to spread laterally. ? Fat flower tissue Fat flower tissue is the common name of tuck stitch. According to the hanging arc formed by the ring, the surface forms raised patterns, etc. , including single-sided ring and double-sided ring; There are single-column rings and multi-column rings; There are single needle loops, multi-needle loops and so on. ? The scientific name of the pattern is corrugated pattern, which is made by moving the needle bed to make the coils cross-knit on the double needle bed. ? Double-scale structure Double-scale structure is also called non-woven fabric structure, also called double spindle needle. It is knitted on a double needle bed, and its essence is double-sided looping. Features: Double-scale fabric is easy to stretch and deform in the transverse direction, which reduces the shape retention of clothing, but enhances the warmth retention. The fabric has a plump and thick feeling, so it is widely used in flat knitting. ? Jacquard weave Jacquard weave is a kind of weave in which yarns are selectively formed into loops at certain intervals in the rows of loops according to the pattern requirements. Yarn is usually left as a floating thread on the back of the fabric where no loops are formed, and can be woven on a single needle bed. Features: thick fabric, not easy to deform, good color effect. ? The scientific name of hollow needle is leno needle, also called peach blossom needle, which can be knitted on a single needle bed. The knitting needles are all arranged, and the basic structure is single-sided flat knitted fabric, and the loops move according to the pattern. It is widely used in needle type. ? Sewing technology: We know that sweaters can be knitted by flat knitting machine or cut from grey cloth by circular knitting machine. However, no matter what method is used to weave the garment pieces, it is necessary to go through the sewing process to form a sweater with wearing value. This process, also called ready-made clothes, refers to the process of connecting the separated pieces and accessories such as the front, back, sleeves, collar and placket of the sweater with stitches. The quality of stitching directly affects the quality of sweaters, not only affects the wearability of sweaters, but also plays an important role in embodying the style and appearance of products. Therefore, the stitching used should match the garment piece to be sewn, the stitching should be flat and reflect the style characteristics, and the stitching should have sufficient fastness. ? Under the hot and humid conditions, wool felted fibers of woolen sweaters gradually shrink, compact, interweave, interweave and felted under the repeated action of mechanical external forces. This property is called felting property of wool fiber. The processing technology of using this characteristic to treat sweaters is called woolen sweater felting. The purpose of woolen sweater cashmere is mainly to improve and improve the inner quality of woolen sweater products (making the fabric compact, firm, elastic and warm) and the appearance effect (beautiful appearance, rich and soft feel and soft color). ? Sweater ironing is the last process of sweater finishing, which is what we usually call sweater setting. It is also an important link that affects quality. The purpose of ironing is to make sweaters have lasting and stable standard specifications; Beautiful appearance, smooth surface, luster, all suede, soft and elastic. Sweater ironing includes four parts: heating, humidification, pressurization and cooling. The ironing process is related to the raw materials of sweaters, and different raw materials should adopt different processes. Generally, ironing can be divided into three categories: steaming, ironing and drying. ? Anti-pilling finishing factors affecting pilling yarn influence: the more fiber crimp waves, the less fiber will stretch when twisting, and the more fiber will slip loosely when rubbing, forming fluff on the yarn surface. Therefore, the better the fiber curl, the easier the pilling. The finer the fiber, the more fiber tips exposed on the yarn surface, and the better the flexibility of the fiber, so the fine fiber is more likely to entangle and pilling than the coarse fiber. As far as fiber length is concerned, short fiber is easier to pilling than long fiber. In addition to the influence of the number of fibers, the friction and cohesion between long fibers are large, so it is difficult for fibers to slide to the surface of the fabric and to pilling. Yarn twist and surface smoothness also have great influence on pilling. When the twist of the yarn is high, the fibers are tightly held, and when the yarn is rubbed, the fiber slips off the yarn relatively less, and the pilling phenomenon is reduced. But woolen sweater is a kind of soft fabric, and too high twist will make the fabric hard, so it is impossible to prevent pilling by increasing twist. Due to the influence of yarn smoothness, the smoother the yarn, the shorter the surface fluff, so the smooth yarn is not easy to pilling. Influence of fabric structure: the fabric with loose fabric structure is easier to pilling than the fabric with tight structure. High-specification fabrics are generally tight, so low-specification fabrics are easier to pilling than high-specification fabrics. Fabric with flat surface is not easy to pilling, while fabric with uneven surface is easy to pilling. Therefore, the pilling resistance of fatty flower fabrics, common color fabrics, rib fabrics and plain knitted fabrics is gradually enhanced. Influence of dyeing and finishing process: after dyeing and finishing, yarn or fabric will have a great influence on pilling resistance, which is related to dyes, auxiliaries and dyeing and finishing process conditions. Yarn dyed with hank yarn is easier to pilling than yarn dyed with loose wool or tops. Fabric dyed by shirt is easier to pilling than fabric dyed by yarn; After setting, especially after resin finishing, the anti-pilling ability of the fabric will be greatly enhanced. Influence of wearing conditions: When wearing sweater fabric, the greater the friction, the more times of friction and the more serious the pilling phenomenon. ? Anti-pilling finishing method and technology woolen sweater is a molded product, and it is difficult to prevent pilling by singeing or shearing. At present, there are two commonly used anti-pilling finishing technologies: light felting and resin finishing. Resin coating is better. ? Shrink-proof finishing scale is a main feature of wool fiber, which makes wool fiber shrink, so the essence of shrink-proof finishing is to treat scales to weaken or lose directional friction. The interaction between chemicals and scale is mainly used to destroy and soften scale; Or the resin is uniformly diffused on the surface of the fiber to form a film. So as to effectively limit the action of scales, make wool fibers lose their contractibility, and achieve the purpose of shrinkage prevention. ? Woolen sweaters often suffer from moth-eaten during storage. If moths can't survive on the fabric, they can achieve the purpose of moth prevention, which is the task of moth prevention finishing. The auxiliaries used in moth-proofing finishing should be efficient and low toxic, have no side effects on human body, do not affect the color and dyeing fastness of fabrics, do not damage the wool feel and strength, and have the characteristics of washing resistance, sun resistance and durability. Common mothproof finishing methods include chemical modification of wool and mothproof finishing. How to choose? Inspection-the size, shape and feel of clothes; Wool yarn with or without coarse knots and excessive knots; No bad seams and redundant lines; Whether there are holes, gaps, beam color defects and oil stains. ? Check the elasticity of cuffs and hem rib. You can open the cuffs or hem by hand, then relax and see if you can recover well. At the same time, it should be noted that the contraction force of rib on cuff or hem should not be too great, otherwise there will be a tight feeling when closing the window. ? Inspection-sewing quality. Pay special attention to the seam quality of cuffs, front and back necklines, shoulder seams and side seams. During inspection, hold both sides of the inspected part by hand and gently pull it to make the joint clearly displayed in front of your eyes. ? When choosing a pullover, whether the elasticity of the collar is appropriate, whether there is any needle leakage in the cuffs, whether the color of the cuff line is correct, and whether the thread end is cleaned are all places that need special attention. When choosing a cardigan, you should pay attention to whether the color of the cardigan in front is correct, whether there are any missing stitches, whether the stitches are loose, the quality of buttonholes, and the cooperation between buttons and buttonholes. ? Because of the different raw materials and knitting structure, the shrinkage rate of sweaters varies greatly, so we must know the shrinkage rate when purchasing and consider the size of sweaters.
Discrimination between true and false sweaters
Sweaters are very popular with consumers in spring, autumn and winter, but there are many fake and shoddy products, some of which are doped with acrylic fiber, polypropylene fiber and other chemical fibers, and some are disguised as wool with chemical fiber fabrics. Therefore, when buying, we should pay attention to identify its authenticity and prevent it from being purchased by mistake. ? If the trademark is pure wool, there should be five contents of pure wool logo; If it is a blended product, the wool content should be marked; Otherwise, it can be considered a fake. ? Check the texture of the real sweater, it is soft, elastic, feels good and keeps warm. The texture, elasticity, feel and warmth of fake sweaters are very poor. ? The burning test shows that real wool contains a lot of protein. Take some fibers from the clothes and light them. Smell them and look at the ashes. If it smells of burnt feathers, it will crush the ashes with your fingers, which is pure wool. If there is no smell of burnt feathers and the ashes are not crushed and caked, it is a chemical fiber fabric. ? Friction electrostatic inspection: Rub the clothes to be inspected on the cotton shirt for about 5 minutes, and then quickly separate from each other. If there is no "snapping" sound, it is a real sweater; If there is a "snapping" sound or even an electrostatic spark, it is a chemical fiber fabric, not a fake sweater. Daily maintenance For many people, maintaining woolen clothes is a headache. After putting on woolen clothes every day, we can keep as new as ever after some simple care: be careful? Empty your clothes pockets, or they will swell or sag. ? Hanging clothes Hanging wool clothes in a cool and ventilated place for a period of time with a suitable hanger can remove wrinkles. Choose a style that can support the shoulder pads of the coat and the waist of the skirt to prevent clothes from wrinkling. ? Prevent wrinkles pure wool or wool blended clothes will disappear without a trace if they are hung in a humid bathroom for a period of time or overnight. Brush the surface of clothes lightly with a clothes brush? Brush off the dust on the surface of clothes, otherwise these dust will become stains for a long time, and the dust will affect the appearance of wool fabric. Care of wet wool? If your woolen clothes are wet, you must dry them immediately, but you must never come into direct contact with heat sources, such as baking in front of a fire, putting them on an electric heater or spreading them in the sun. Don't use the dryer to dry unless there are special instructions on the washing label. Throw away clothes as soon as they get dirty? Wash small stains with cold water, and then blot them with a clean cloth, but never use paper towels; Remove the smell from clothes. Lay the clothes flat on the bed for about an hour to remove the odor on the clothes, such as the smell of cigarettes. Let wool breathe? Let the wool air for 24 hours before wearing it next time, and try to avoid wearing the same dress for two consecutive days. This can give wool fiber enough time to recover its natural elasticity. If you want to store woolen goods for a long time, you must wash and dry them first. Any wool fabric can be folded and stored, put in cedar or mothballs, or hung in clothes bags. Don't stuff clothes in a narrow space. Mothproof? Mothproof of sweaters is also very important. The common method is fumigation, that is, using the volatiles of fumigant to kill moths, which needs to be carried out in a sealed container. Camphor, naphthalene and p-dichlorobenzene are mainly used. This method is generally used when putting sweaters at home to prevent insects from eating. Correct washing method? Read the washing marks on the clothes carefully. The composition of wool in clothes is different, and the washing and maintenance methods are different. Some are suitable for hand washing and some are suitable for dry cleaning. The maintenance methods described in the washing label on clothes will vary according to the types of wool. Specially treated fabrics may also have special advantages. The common washing mark at home and abroad is to use the temperature of washing liquid below 30℃, and the conventional mechanical washing can not be washed with water. Be careful when you are wet, that is to say, you can't bleach clothes with chlorine. Suitable for washing clothes with all dry cleaning solvents, suitable for washing clothes with tetrachloroethylene, chloroform, light gasoline and trichloroethane. There are no special requirements for the washing process, that is, clothes can be put into the drum dryer for processing. Indicates that clothes cannot be put into the drum dryer for processing, dry cleaning and ironing. When ironing, the temperature should not exceed 120℃. When ironing, cloth should be placed, and the temperature should not exceed 120℃. Sweater washing? When washing sweaters, neutral detergent or neutral washing powder should be used for washing. If you choose alkaline detergent for daily laundry, it is easy to damage wool fibers. The suitable washing water temperature is about 30℃. If the water temperature is too high, the woolen sweater will be felted again, and if the water temperature is too low, the washing effect will be reduced. ? When washing, except for sweaters marked with "super washable" or "machine washable", sweaters should be carefully washed by hand. It is forbidden to rub them seriously by hand or with a washboard, let alone by a washing machine. Otherwise, the wool fiber scales will shrink, which will greatly reduce the size of the sweater. Machine washing is easy to damage woolen sweater and make it decompose. ? Generally, before washing the sweater, the parts with more stains should be marked or marked, so that these parts can be carefully cleaned when washing, which can not only achieve the purpose of cleaning, but also prevent the sweater from being damaged. ? When washing sweaters of different colors, it is generally not appropriate to take the same bath to prevent pollution between different colors. ? After washing the sweater, rinse it with clear water until there is no sewage and no foam. Rinsed sweaters should be lightly pressed to remove water, then put into a net bag and hung with water drops until the water drops are dry. Then dry, flat the knitted sweater on a flat plate to dry, or put the two sleeves of the sweater on a bamboo pole, gently flatten and dry. Clothes hangers should avoid drying. When drying in the sun, it should be thoroughly dried in weak light or in a cool and ventilated place. Don't expose yourself to the sun in order to avoid damaging the sweater. ? For chemical fiber products, because of its high strength, it will not produce felting phenomenon, so it can be washed with water according to the general laundry method. However, for some products with loose structure and terry or nap on the surface, it is best not to wash them with a washing machine, otherwise the fabric will be easily damaged. ? Only clothes marked with the symbol of dry pure wool or wool blend can be dried by machine. There is a sign on the laundry that it can be dried, indicating that it is safe to dry with a dryer. ? Sweaters after washing and drying generally need to be ironed to restore their original style, which is convenient for wearing or keeping. Sweaters need ironing or shaping before ironing. Sweaters are suitable for ironing with steam iron at 135 ~ 145℃. Worsted woolen sweater is suitable for ironing with 120 ~ 160℃ electric iron. When ironing, cover the sweater with a soaked white cloth to prevent it from getting wet. ? Sweaters are often dry-cleaned. Dry cleaning is a decontamination method to remove oil-soluble stains in rotary washing machines by using water-insoluble petroleum solvents and volatile organic solvents such as tetrachloroethylene. This method has wide adaptability, small deformation and no bleeding, but it needs certain equipment. Sweater fabrics can be dry-cleaned, and the washing label should indicate dry cleaning. ? Does the sweater shrink after washing? The water temperature is preferably around 35 degrees. When washing, gently squeeze it with your hands, and do not rub, knead or twist it with your hands. Never wash it with a washing machine. ? Be sure to use neutral detergent. When in use, the ratio of water to detergent is generally 100: 3. ? When rinsing, slowly add cold water, so that the water temperature gradually drops to room temperature, and then rinse clean. ? After washing, press the water by hand first, then wrap it in a dry cloth and press it. You can also use a centrifugal dehydrator. Pay attention to wrap the sweater with cloth before putting it into the dehydrator; You can't dehydrate for too long, you can only dehydrate for 2 minutes at most. ? After washing and dehydration, the sweater should be spread out in a ventilated place to dry, and it should not be hung or exposed to the sun to avoid deformation of the sweater. Treatment of Common Stains Sweaters will get stains of one kind or another if they are not careful when they are worn. At this time, effective cleaning is very important. The following will introduce the treatment methods of some common stains. ? As soon as the clothes are dirty, please immediately cover the dirty place with a clean and absorbent dry cloth to suck away the dirt that has not been sucked away. ? How to remove particularly dirty alcoholic beverages (except red wine)-gently press the place to be treated with a highly absorbent cloth in order to absorb excess liquid as much as possible. Then dip a little sponge into it and wipe it with a mixture of half warm water and half medical alcohol. Black coffee-mix alcohol with equal amount of white vinegar, soak a piece of cloth, gently press the dirt carefully, and then press it dry with a cloth with strong absorption. Blood stains-wipe the blood stains with a damp cloth as soon as possible to absorb excess blood. Gently wipe the stain with undiluted vinegar, and then wipe it with cold water. Cream/Grease/Sauce-If you find oil stains, first use a spoon or knife to remove the excess oil stains on the clothes surface, then soak a cloth in a special cleaner for dry cleaning, and then gently wipe the dirt. Chocolate/milk coffee/tea-first, use a cloth dipped in white wine, gently press around the stain, and then use it as black coffee. Eggs/milk-first gently press the stain with a cloth stained with white wine, and then repeat with a cloth stained with diluted white vinegar. Fruit/juice/red wine-soak a piece of cloth in a mixture of alcohol and water (the ratio is 3: 1) and gently press the stain. Grass-Carefully use soap (with neutral soap powder or soap) or gently press with a cloth coated with medical alcohol. Ink/ballpoint pen-first gently press the stain with a cloth stained with white wine, and then repeat it with a cloth stained with white vinegar or alcohol. Lipstick/cosmetics/shoe polish-wipe with a cloth coated with turpentine or white wine. Urine-dispose of it as soon as possible. First use a dry sponge to absorb more liquid, then apply undiluted vinegar, and finally refer to the treatment of blood. Waxing-first remove excess wax from the surface of clothes with a spoon or knife, then cover it with blotting paper and iron it gently with a medium temperature iron. The new sweater has become shorter and harder. You can wrap it in clean white cloth, steam it in a steamer for ten minutes, take it out and shake it gently to loosen the fiber. Then carefully pull it into its original shape and size, lay it flat on the back of a thin plate or screen, and dry it in a ventilated and cool place, and it can be restored to its original state. Wool or woolen fabric will gradually lose its original luster if washed many times. If you rinse with clear water several times, add a few drops of vinegar to the clear water to continue bleaching to neutralize the acid and alkali, wool and woolen fabrics will restore their original luster. Special maintenance of light wool fabrics, such as cool wool, can be ironed with a wet cloth or steam iron, although it is easy to wrinkle.