Rolex is a very popular Swiss watch brand, and it is also a brand with "personality" among many Swiss brands. At present, Rolex is an independent watchmaking brand, which is rare among Swiss watch brands. Moreover, Rolex is an open and mysterious brand, and even the precious metals that make the case are melted by itself. In fact, a lot of information inside the brand is not made public, which is also a kind of protection for the brand. You know, there are too many "fake watches" of Rolex on the market now, but they are all exactly the same.
Blue parachrome hairspring
Rolex doesn't seem interested in developing the complex functions of watches, but that doesn't mean it doesn't create. Rolex prefers "pragmatism" to brands that like to break through the watchmaking process. The watches currently sold by Rolex have no super-complex functions, and the brand pays more attention to accuracy, reliability and durability, which is consistent with the demands of many ordinary consumers to buy watches, and is also the most important reason why people trust and like Rolex.
The 4 130 movement consists of only 290 parts (far less than the standard multifunctional timepiece).
Rolex is a "slow changing" brand. You will find that the style of a watch has a subtle relationship between change and invariability in several years or decades. Many watches are gradually changing, which is more in line with the current fashion, but keeps the characteristics of the original watches. The firm price of Rolex watches in the second-hand market is also a popular point. Many people will consider "preserving value" when buying watches, but Rolex is very firm about preserving value, especially some popular watches. If properly maintained, the depreciation rate will be very low. And some special watches have attracted much attention in recent years' auctions, which shows people's love for Rolex brand.
197 1, Explorer II Watch
New Rolex Explorer II watch
This problem has been bothering me for many years. On reflection, I think it should be the following reasons:
King of design: it has been imitated and never surpassed. Rolex Datejust The modern perpetual calendar watch was introduced by Rolex a few years ago, and it is almost no different from Rolex II. Similar design features distinguish Rolex watches from other brands.
Groove bezel above the date window, one-eyed magnifying glass and oyster strap: The new Datejust 4 1 has these elements, just like many other Rolex models. These design features are the secret of brand success. Rolex sells about 800,000 watches every year, with an estimated annual income of $4.39 billion. It is the most successful luxury watch manufacturer.
Without convincing design, all these efforts will not bring lasting success to the brand. Take the following test: What unique style elements come to mind when you think of Rolex? Is it a magnifying glass above the date, a so-called "Mercedes-Benz" pointer, a dial with a typical double and circular time scale or an oyster bracelet? Or a flute frame and a silver jubilee bracelet? Rolex watches have many unique attributes. Now let's do the test again. When you think of other watch brands (such as Jaeger-LeCoultre or Omega), what image do you think of? Even for big brands, the design logos in their series usually have only one or two clear style elements. Usually, this is just the shape of the shell.
Magnifier is probably the design element most closely related to Rolex watches, and its design purpose is to improve clarity.
Rolex makes full use of its many distinctive style elements. When observing Rolex's contemporary watches, people can't help but notice that the design is not very diverse: for example, there are only two different forms of hands; The shape of shells has not changed much. The only difference between the two most successful models, Submariner and GMT-Master II, is the number and other hands on the rotatable bezel. Sea dweller is essentially a submarine without a data amplifier. The difference between the deep sea and the sea dweller lies only in its size and the wide ring around the dial, which increases its waterproofness. Yacht-Master has exactly the same dial layout, the same hands and the same case; Only the digital and rotatable bezel are upgraded, and the color matching of the dial and bezel is different. Even Explorer II has the same design features as other models, although it is different by different bezel and different time zone pointer. With Submariner without date display, one person can reach seven models with only different details. All the above models have the same oyster strap, the same Mercedes hands and dials with bar and circular indexes. These seven models are responsible for most sales of Rolex.
Interestingly, all these design elements were invented for practical reasons and can be traced back to 1950. Choose the shape of Mercedes pointer and make the best use of luminous materials.
Practical reasons (for example, better readability and directionality) also inspired the design of dial. In 12 hour, there are six circular scales, bar marks at 3, 6 and 9, and a slender triangle at 12. Details first appeared when 1953 Submariner came out. Magnifier is probably the most relevant design element of Rolex, and it is also to improve clarity. In 1955, the first GMT-Master combined the lens with the previously cited design elements.
These functions maintain Rolex's image as a professional watch manufacturer (such as diver). All the features are harmoniously combined because they all have the same purpose: to optimize readability. That's why Submariner and GMT-Master II are prototypes of the so-called "tool desk": they are robust and powerful, and they are designed to ensure that these two advantages are clearly visible. Over the years, quality and price have risen steadily. In order to meet the more and more strict requirements of professional divers, Rolex introduced the sea dweller with helium valve, and later introduced the 3900-meter ultra-deep diving Deepsea. This extremely high waterproof performance is reflected in the large-volume design that looks more professional. Rolex relies on proven and easily recognizable design elements to make watches for diving, flying (GMT-Master II), sailing (Yacht-Master) and exploring (Explorer II). If these watches are different from each other, it's just that their dials and bezel are different in color. This proved to be very wise, because most brands have iconic models in their product portfolios, which sell well, but they rarely succeed in obtaining a wider range from them. Sometimes one of these models has additional functions, but the watch is still a diving watch or a pilot watch. On the other hand, Rolex uses its unique design elements in many different models, thus ensuring the high recognition of the brand.
Interestingly, the gradual development of design is conducive to the preservation of value. For example, the submarine has not changed, but its retail price has risen from time to time. Connoisseurs who choose to sell submarines are usually easy to find buyers, and several will add value. Of course, this is another secret of Rolex's success. For example, the rubber strap of the 20 15 new rose gold yacht master caused a sensation, because it was the first such strap of Rolex.
Rolex) Submariner and GMT-Master II are prototypes of the so-called "tool table": they are strong and practical, and they are designed to ensure that these two qualities are clearly visible.
The second half of the Rolex oyster series consists of more elegant watches, which are used in less specific activities. They all have slightly thinner obelisk hands: if the obelisk hands are used in Rolex chronographs, their ends will be slender and pointed. Rolex provides alligator straps for some of its precious metal cases. You can see more changes here. Datejust has the greatest versatility: it can provide radial Arabic or Roman numerals, bar or diamond-encrusted scales, many different dial colors, grooved or curved bezel, and oyster or jubilee bracelets. Day-Date and Sky-Dweller are relatively low-key, but the scope is slightly narrow. Oysters have no date display and many colors to choose from.
Models with calibration bezel, especially Submariner and GMT-Master II, are iconic, so they can only be modified very slowly for a long time. In contrast, more elegant models provide more freedom for fashion changes, and versions aimed at catering to specific markets or models with bolder colors may not be sold in large quantities. This enables Rolex to solve the problems related to its success: "Diver" is a very common watch. This will also affect the design, because these models of dials usually have matching colors. Interestingly, Oyster Perpetual, which has no date, started from 20 15 and found lower-priced Rolex watches among low-priced Rolex watches. The 39 mm version is enough to accommodate a man's wrist. Rolex is also in the trend here, such as the blue dial.
Although they have many variations, the more elegant models are easily recognized as Rolex watches. This is because all kinds of dials and bezel are generally Rolex. Their features include radial Roman or Arabic numerals, bar or square diamond inlay indexes, and grooved or curved bezel. So are oysters, anniversary or presidential metal bracelets. There are also several constants: for example, oyster shell, obelisk pointer and date magnifying glass. These functions improve the identifiability.
Rolex is more successful than any other brand in adhering to its iconic design, and some styles have remained basically unchanged for 60 years.
Daytona and Yacht-Master II timepieces are general exceptions to the proof rule. Everyone has obelisks, but their scale is different from any other model. Daytona is very professional: its scale is shaped like a ship, the color scale on its sub-dial is in sharp contrast, and the most important thing is the unique speedometer scale. It is not through unique design elements, but through a unique combination of details to achieve its iconic and unique state. The newer Yacht-Master II is obviously different from Cosmograph Daytona: the new product has a few seconds of contrast color scale around the sub-dial, but it also has different styles of block scale and screwless buttons. All in all, it gives the most daring impression. This model implies its white and blue color scheme: after all, as a chronograph of navigation, the ocean is its predetermined activity area.
Rolex retains many clear design features. The brand has always been loyal to the unique elements originally inspired by its functions, such as the Mercedes pointer and the date magnifying glass. These details express the core of the brand as a tool watch manufacturer, while ensuring immediate recognition. Decision makers in Geneva also use these familiar functions in the new model, thus providing a wide enough range of changes for labels. In its more elegant models, Rolex combines current trends with addictive colors and dials. However, even if you can choose from multiple options (for example, on the bezel and dial), these changes are well known and unique enough, so you can easily identify these models as Rolex.
This strategy is also obvious in Datejust 4 1, which was launched in 20 16 and will replace the mature Datejust II in the long run. Rolex borrowed the old case diameter (4 1 mm) and familiar design features, such as bar scale, groove or curved bezel and obelisk pointer. But novices offer more bracelet choices. Datejust II is only equipped with an oyster strap, but now Rolex offers the jubilee Datejust 4 1.
On the other hand, the self-winding 3235 movement is absolutely brand-new. Thanks to the new clockwork and the efficiency improvement of its timely escapement system, this manufacturing movement can accumulate power and store it for 70 hours. Like all Rolex movements, it uses a sophisticated chronograph. The "highest astronomical clock" certificate issued by Rolex 20 15 confirmed its accuracy. Rolex passed this certification and set a new standard for watches. Only watches that keep the time within the required tolerance range of -2 to +2 seconds per day can leave the factory. Therefore, Rolex maintains a stricter tolerance than COSC, allowing -4 to +6 seconds per day.
Rolex is more successful than any other brand in its loyalty to its iconic design, which has remained basically unchanged in some models for 60 years, and at the same time, some new models inspired by existing fashion elements have been introduced. Clear and reliable brand information, coupled with impeccable styles, has formed a unique design, thus maintaining the success of the Rolex watch brand.
This does not mean that face value is very important, and the first impression is always the winner.
According to the statistics of Chengdu Centennial Watch Store Hendry, among the people who buy Rolex, young people aged 30-40 have already accounted for 1/3. You know, five years ago, more than 90% of Rolex buyers were middle-aged people over 45.
There is also a 20 14 Swiss watch sales statistics. Rolex ranks first in the world with a total sales amount of 4.6 billion, while the second place is only 2.6 billion, which shows how popular Rolex watches are.
In fact, Rolex's gold watch is still worth buying. Why? Because of the preservation of value, why didn't Big Brother give the pheasant a watch in cash at that time? There is a legend in the street that Rolex is a hard currency other than gold, and it has a high rate of preservation in pawn shops and auction houses. Now the price of a brand-new black water ghost calendar is 65,900 yuan, and the green water ghost is 70,000 yuan. Go and see the second-hand watch market. If the quality is good, the price will basically not be reduced.
Although the price of Rolex's all-gold watch is 200,000 yuan, which is much more expensive than the all-steel watch with 40,000-50,000 yuan of gold steel alternating with diamonds, it is also worth buying, because Rolex is the only brand in Switzerland that has its own foundry and completely smelts 18K gold by itself.
Rolex will purchase gold and precious stones all over the world, but after buying back the raw materials, the research and development and smelting, from thousands of gold to 18K gold, are all completed in Rolex's own factory. Of course, let alone the other parts. Rolex must have made them all by itself. It takes at least one year to produce a Rolex watch, and it is entirely in Rolex's own hands from raw materials to final products.
Rolex is also one of the few Swiss brands that independently research, develop, design and produce movement.
It is also the only brand in Switzerland that has not been sold since its establishment. Since the establishment of 1905, it has not belonged to any group, and it is still in the hands of the Wellsdorf Fund established by its founder. This foundation is protected by official Swiss laws, which also ensures that Rolex will not meet the needs of the market, control positioning, price and R&D focus, as well as the eternal pursuit of high quality.
We can understand this problem from the following three angles.
First, the popularity of Rolex is very high, and it is not low. Thanks to some Hong Kong TV dramas, many so-called "big brothers" in the camera are wearing Rolex watches. At the same time, according to a popular brand grading standard today, Rolex belongs to the so-called classic luxury brand.
Second, Rolex is relatively "difficult to make". We often say that the more expensive the watch, the more exquisite it is. Rolex is more "skin-resistant" in this context, mainly because Rolex's technology or related patents are more powerful, such as oyster structure and 904L stainless steel.
However, although Rolex is as good as Rolex, I suggest not to be too superstitious about any brand.
That's a good question Why choose Rolex?
Rolex is definitely famous enough. There is a movie line that says: If a man doesn't have a Rolex. People don't look down on you, but they can't see you at all. Although this statement is a bit exaggerated, it can also explain Rolex's reputation. As a world-class watch brand. Rolex can conquer 80% of men in the world.
Rolex watches are reliable, accurate and durable. That's why we have the saying "once and for all"
Speaking of hedging ability. Rolex can be said to be first. Patek Philippe, king of watches, can compete with Rolex in the field of value preservation. But Patek Philippe is not as resistant to operation as Rolex. If you want to spend a lot of money to buy a watch and put it in the cupboard. If you want to take it out to play, you must be careful. Then why not buy a Rolex? Go up and down the mountain, feel free to get high.
Rolex has a history of 100 years. But all the watches haven't changed much, submarine series. Daytona series and so on. Classic and steady, but never out of date. Because the details have never stopped upgrading, the travel time accuracy far exceeds the standards of the Swiss Observatory. As the originator of waterproof watches, it has the abnormal model of Shihai, not to mention the waterproof performance. The technology of 904 steel is also one of Rolex's treasures. Various technologies that make peers proud will not be described here.
Although Rolex is not cheap, it is the most practical luxury watch. Submariners are professional diving watches, Greenwich is specially built for people who often cross the border, and Daytona is the racing time code. . . . . . . . . . Very practical, the brand is more advanced than not practical. Brand positioning is not as high as being crushed.
Therefore, Rolex has won such a high reputation.
You can search Baidu Watch World Baidu Post Bar, a post bar dedicated to sharing watch knowledge, which can let you know more about watches. Many cousins share it here.
Xu Bugong: Why choose Rolex? It's good to let you know how great this brand is from the perspective of the evolutionary history of Shihai series:)
Living in the Sea is not Rolex's most famous work. It is far less than the classic Datejust, the presidential watch of the day of the week and the submarine worn by 007. However, the lasting continuation of the Shihai series is not just an opportunity. In fact, it embodies Rolex's real vision: making watches for different groups, even if the audience is divers from minority groups.
When Haishang series appeared in the late 1960s, the submarine series had reached the waterproof depth of 200 meters and became the best diving companion watch. Therefore, the purpose of Shihai Watch is not to correct the existing defects of submarine, but to expand its underwater application. Many divers of SeaLab expedition report that the dial crystal of their watches often pops up in the decompression chamber, which is undoubtedly a failure.
In this regard, Rolex has designed many dial prototypes in an attempt to solve the problem of dial pop-up. Finally, the method of installing a helium gas discharge valve on the side of the watch case stands out (helium molecules escape through the control mechanism, which solves the problem of shell explosion), and the improved series is named "Haiju".
In this way, 1967 created the Shihai series, which continues to this day. Today, 50 years later, we can see more innovations, higher waterproof rating and several special editions worth mentioning.
Today, we will review the 50-year mental journey of this Rolex tool watch.
Reference 1665 "Double Red" (1967- 1977)
The first product of Shihai series is "Double Red" (DRSD). This nickname comes from the distinctive double-line red line on the dial, which distinguishes it from many other types of single-line scarlet letters (these are called "Danhong"). Interestingly, the design of helium exhaust valve is not necessary for all these models, but has become the symbol of Haicang series that we are familiar with today.
Compared with the standard submarine watch at that time, you can easily identify DRSD's 40mm stainless steel case through the valve on the left side of the case. At the same time, it has a date display window at three o'clock, which is very important for divers who need to stay underwater for a long time. However, this watch is not equipped with the usual small window convex lens on the calendar window, because it can't withstand the pressure under water (at that time, the small window convex lens was simply attached to the crystal), and it was replaced by the thick dome plexiglass that collectors especially like today.
Reference 1665 "Great White Shark" (1977- 1983)
Regardless of color, "Dabai" and "Shuanghong" are highly similar: the same reference number, the same waterproof performance, and the same case characteristics. Except for the model with Comex logo on the dial, the market price of "Dabai" is far less than that of "Double Red". It is worth mentioning that this watch is the last watch with plexiglass mirror in Shihai series, so it is considered by many collectors to have collection value.
Reference 16660' sanliu' (1978- 1989)
In many ways, Reference 16660 is the prototype of modern Haicang series, because it is the first Rolex watch with sapphire mirror. Coupled with sapphire mirror and larger case, it can withstand water pressure as deep as 1220 meters, which is twice as deep as the previous generation.
In addition, compared with the 16665 model, the other obvious changes of the 1660 model are: the date indicator is faded from gold to gray, the bezel is changed to one-way, and the helium gas exhaust valve is enlarged.
Reference 16600 (1989-2009)
During the particularly long production period of this watch, the luminescent material changed from tritium to Luminova, and then evolved into SuperLuminova material. At the same time, this watch adopts caliber 3 135 movement improved from caliber 3035 movement, which not only has greater energy storage, but also replaces the original "balance plug" with a complete "balance bridge" component.
Reference 1 16660 (2008-present)
Since it came out in 2008, the positioning of the deep diving watch has pushed the Shihai series to a new height, and the waterproof depth is three times that of the previous one, reaching 3990 meters. In a word, this is the highest standard of Rolex diving watches. The case is 44 mm thick and the back is made of titanium alloy to control the weight.
Reference116600 (2014-2017)
The bezel of this model was upgraded to Cerachrom ceramics, which replaced the aluminum alloy of the previous Shihai series. The case size returns to 40 mm, and the ear is thinner than the submarine series. Unfortunately, the model reference 1 16600 is the shortest-lived model in the history of Shihai series, and it was only three years later that it was replaced.
Reference 126600 (20 17 till now)
The most easily observed new change of this watch is that the case size has increased to 43 mm, and the ear has also increased to 22 mm The function upgrade includes upgrading from caliber 3 135 to caliber 3235. It can be said that this is an all-round upgrade.
This new model of watch is regarded as a major change to the original Haicang series, but the main intention is to make Haicang series stand out from Rolex's existing product line. At the same time, it also provides a choice for people who need big watches but have no feeling about the high technology of Deepsea series.
Some cousins also asked:
So what? If you just buy blindly (that is, buy indiscriminately), forget it?
The only possible "Monday morning quarterback" style for Rolex is DAYJUST. Monday morning quarterback means that it is difficult to predict beforehand, and no one can predict which style will break out. Because no one knows the output of DJ, only after many years can players piece together the information and make an estimate.
This series has high output and many models. In the design and change of the disk surface, it is not as clear as other series. Many people play DJ's discs, such as turquoise, coral, semi-precious stones, strange metal discs, or black time markers with only 6 and 9 numbers. In addition to the unknown DJ series, and the price is not expensive and easy to get started, the size of 4 1mm is the largest among the conventional models, which is very suitable for young people to get started.
There are also some that originally belonged to the public and suddenly became popular after the production was stopped. Some thought it was a niche model at first, such as the Rolex Prince series rectangular watch with a square bracelet movement, which was discontinued after many years of small sales. I think as long as the market conditions are met, it may heat up again.
Will Rolex officials be responsible for the maintenance of post-processed watches?
Just like a modified car, some people like to modify the Rolex, change the strap, set diamonds, add PVD, or buy it themselves and process the design. These two years are really popular. In this regard, Rolex's official reply is that as long as the movement and case are Rolex's, it can provide maintenance services, but the watch should be restored to its original state. For example, in the case modification of Water Ghost, you need to buy a brand-new original case of Water Ghost first, and then restore the original appearance of Rolex, and then carry out maintenance service.
Why choose Rolex? Simply put, there are several reasons.
1. Durable. The durability of Rolex watches is obvious to all. Introduction of Oyster Case 1926. 1927, British swimmer Mercedes Gillis wore a Rolex oyster watch and spent 15 hours crossing the English Channel. When the watch still works normally after landing, the waterproof performance of Rolex oyster watch is widely reported. Since then, Rolex Oyster Watch has been continuously improved and become one of the representatives of durable watches. Rolex left by many parents and produced in the auction market or the second-hand market in the early days can still operate normally today.
2. Pay attention to practicality. I don't know if you have noticed. Rolex has never made a watch with a transparent back, and neither has tourbillon. Rolex pursues practicality and patience in life, not fancy machinery or technology.
3. Brand value. Rolex's marketing is very successful, and it has outstanding influence in racing, sports, art and public welfare undertakings. This has also deepened many people's recognition of the Rolex brand. Among the top ten Swiss brands (including Nestle, Ruilian and other brands across all categories), Rolex is also among the best, ranking first in the watch category.
4. second-hand value. Because of the above characteristics and the limited production of Rolex watches, Rolex watches are often hard to find. So some Rolex watches, even if they are not appreciated, at least have a good anti-fall effect, which is why some people especially like Rolex.
5. sui generis. Rolex's watches and brand features are unique, and it has become a trend and a style representative.
These are the reasons why I think people will choose Rolex.
As for whether to choose Rolex, it depends on whether you like it or not. Just like some people are fruit fans, some people think that apples are sought after by too many people but don't like them. I suggest you try it on more and see more.