Hairpins also vary according to official rank and status, and the actual system recorded in different classics is different. Xia Ziyang's "Shi Liuqiu Lu" records that at that time, hairpins were divided into gold hairpins, gold-plated hairpins, silver hairpins, copper hairpins, etc. Among them, gold was the most expensive, gold-plated second, silver third, and copper third. "The Origin of the Ryukyu Kingdom" records that the prince inserted a golden sunflower hairpin when his hair was knotted, and a large hairpin made of dragon flowers when his hair was not knotted. On the side of the prince, the minister, and the purple crown, gold flower and sunflower hairpins are inserted. Officials below the royal lock side and ordinary nobles put silver flower and sunflower hairpins on the silver platform. When the new ministers are not in charge of their positions, they arrange flowers and hairpins on silver platforms. When the prince doesn't have a hairpin, he wears a gold hairpin instead. Generally, nobles below the level of the Ministry of Justice wear silver hairpins when their hair is not in patchy condition. Zhang Xueli's "Shi Liuqiu Lu" records are slightly different from the former. It means that the king uses flowered gold hairpins, the princes use bare gold hairpins, the third minister uses purple gold hairpins, the officials use flowered silver hairpins, and the officials generally use light silver hairpins. The "Zhongshan Biography" has clear records on the hairpins and uniforms of officials at all levels. Officials of the first and second grades wear colorful satin hats, brocade belts, gold hairpins, and Duanqing robes. The second-rank official wears a purple damask hat and a dragon-pan brocade belt and crown, among which a gold hairpin is inserted in the second rank, and a gold flower and silver column hairpin is inserted in the second rank. Officials of the third to fifth ranks all wear yellow silk hats, and their ranks are distinguished by belts. The third-rank official wears a dragon-pan yellow belt, the fourth-rank official uses a dragon-pan red belt, and the fifth-rank official uses a variegated flower belt. The uniforms of the sixth and seventh-rank officials have the same shape, with bright red crepe hats and variegated belts. The third- to ninth-rank officials all wear silver hairpins. "Old Records of the Ryukyu Kingdom" also contains records about the hairpin system. In the book, except for the gold hairpin with a dragon head worn by the king, the hairpins worn by officials and nobles at all levels are all in the shape of flowers. The prince, princes, ministers, and court officials wore gold hairpins with sunflower heads, and officials of purple gold wore gold sunflower hairpins with silver stems. The nobles with titles on the side of the imperial palace wore silver hairpins with jade flowers, and those without titles wore copper hairpins with jade flowers.
In addition, they inherited the system of the Zhongshan Kingdom, and when the Ming Dynasty envoys arrived, they would wear clothes that imitated the Ming Dynasty system, such as officials' supplementary uniforms. After the fall of the Ming Dynasty and the establishment of the Qing Dynasty, they began to wear local-style clothing during the canonization ceremony.
At that time, court music and dance performances such as royal music, group dances, and court dances were all performed by children of the noble family. The music boys in royal music were young noble boys wearing women's clothes and red socks.
In addition to the performers, there are also some palace personnel with special positions, including medical officers (also known as "Wuguanzheng"), Zongsou (responsible for the tea soup in the palace, also known as imperial tea soup), Si Guanyuan, musicians, etc. They have different clothing from other people. They all shave their heads like monks and wear black hats with a wide six-sided curtain called a hat. This is because they are busy and eager with their duties and have no time to comb their hair. In addition to wearing quilts, they would also wear a short coat outside. Later, the medical officers did not shave their heads. Musicians will wrap their heads with red handkerchiefs when playing. Common men wear a quilt, with sleeves two or three feet wide, no longer than fingers, and no ties to connect the clothes. It is similar to a kimono. It is mostly made of banana cloth and banana kudzu, but is also made of satin, silk, and ramie. , additional belts are required. The "Records of Danjong" in the "Records of the Joseon Dynasty" record that the clothes were black, white, red and other colors, while the "Records of Sejo" records that their clothes were mainly black and white. The sleeves and clothes of the Venerable were embroidered with animal shapes in five-color silk, and his feet were made of straw (three boards). A few literati and scholars would wear shoes and boots on weekdays. The "Records of Chengzong" states that they mostly wore white clothes and wrapped their buns in silk. The ministers were wrapped in Ban-dyed silk ribbons, white fine ramie cloth, and red-dyed silk belts.
Just like men, gentry women mostly wore simple clothes made of plantain cloth, and some wealthy gentry women would wear ? and Shang cloth. Women wear quilts like men. In the earlier period, no trousers or middle coat were worn. In the later period, there were some early women's quilts without belts and buttons, and they had to pull the skirt with their hands when walking. However, the quilts in later portraits and handed down objects have ties on the right side, and some are on the right side. Buttons at neck. In addition to quilts, there are also records of other styles of women's clothing. For example, "Duanjong Chronicles" and "Seongjong Chronicles" mentioned that in addition to wearing quilts, Ryukyu women also wore coat skirts, underskirts and other similar women's clothing in the Ming Dynasty and Joseon Dynasty. The portraits of the period also showed gentry and common women wearing coats and skirts, and wealthy families would also wear colorful satin clothes. There is no embroidery on the coat and skirt, and the skirt is mostly white. In ancient paintings, there is another kind of coat tied around the neck. They wear three boards on their feet, which is no different from men. Noble women would wear Ruo Li or cover their heads with white cloth when going out. From the folk paintings handed down from ancient times, common women usually wear headscarves. The hairpins worn by common women are made of tortoiseshell. They have no other jewelry and no makeup. However, the hairpins worn by women can identify their identities. According to the statistics, women from the gentry below the Si family wear silver hairpins, and married women from the gentry wear silver hairpins. The hairpin depends on the husband's character and rank. Women of the common people were not allowed to wear gold or silver hairpins, and they mostly wore tortoiseshell hairpins.
According to the "Records of the Joseon Dynasty and the Record of Seongjong", the costumes of common women in the Yaeyama Islands and Miyako Islands are different from those mentioned above. The women of Yonaguni Islands have long hair, untied buns, and horizontal buns. Wood is placed on the temples to comb it. Some of the hair is as long as the floor, and the shortest is over the knees. Wearing ramie straight-collared or collarless clothes with short and wide sleeves, mostly blue or cyan, and cyan clothes underneath. The women's clothing of Iriomote Island ("Sono Island" in "The Chronicles of the Emperor"), Irabu Island ("Irov Island" or "Irov Shima" in "The Records of the Emperor"), and Tarama Island are similar to those of Yonaguni Island . Women on Iriomote Island have the custom of piercing their noses. Small black wood holes are pierced on both sides of their noses, and small crystal beads, up to several inches wide, are tied around their shins. Women on Irabu Island wear large crystal beads around their necks. Women's decorations on Hateruma Island and Shinjo Island are the same as men's.
In terms of hairstyle, "Zhongshan Chuanxin Lu" and Xia Ziyang's "Shi Liuqiu Lu" both record that they all had hair before the fall of the Ming Dynasty. The indigenous people wore buns on the right side of their heads. The Fujian people had thirty-six surnames. Then the bun is tied in the middle of the head, with silver hairpins inserted by the gentry below, and bamboo or tortoiseshell hairpins worn by the common people. Later, net scarves were worn. After the death of the Ming Dynasty, people began to shave the top of their hair, tie it in a bun in the middle of the head, and wear a short hairpin. However, "Records of Duanjong" states that they tied a bun on their left ear, and the remaining hair was tied on their right ear and wrapped in white cloth. Maybe there are different clothes in different regions. They do not often wear crown hats on weekdays. The crown hats they wear are as mentioned above, including the native Ryukyu crown hat and the Ming style crown hat. In addition, there are hats such as hats and hats. The hats are made of different materials such as bamboo, wood and shapes according to their uses, and they can also be dyed in different colors.
The clothing of common men in the Yaeyama Islands and Miyako Islands was different from the above in the early days of the Second Sho Dynasty. "Chosun Dynasty Chronicles Seongjong Chronicles" records that Yonaguni Island ("Seongjong Chronicles") "Written as "Run Ise Mo" and "Run I Island"), Hateruma Island ("Songjong Chronicles" calls "Cat Yue Lao Mayi Semo", "Cat Yue Lao Mayi Island"), Xincheng Island ( "The Chronicle of the Emperor's reign" calls it "Tarai Shimo" and "Tarai Island"), Tarama Island ("The Chronicle of the Emperor's reign" calls "Tama Shima" and "Ta Roman Island"), Miyakojima ( "Records of Chengzong" states that the costumes of men on the islands such as "Migao Shimo" and "Migao Island" are roughly similar. Their hair is braided and tied up with ramie ropes, and they wear buns on their necks. They have long beards. Some people wear their beards in braids or buns. They wear blue or cyan straight collar, collarless wide short-sleeved ramie clothes on the upper body, and three white cloth scarves on the lower body as mid-skirts. The clothing on Tarama Island and Miyako Island is made of blue-dyed ramie, which looks like colored satin. Men in these areas do not wear shoes.
There is a custom of ear-piercing in Hateruma Island, with small green beads threaded through it, and beads strung around the neck. The people of Xincheng Island string green beads around their arms and calves.
To the second In the late Sho Dynasty, the clothing in these areas was also influenced by the main island of Okinawa. In addition to using fabrics of different materials and patterns produced in various places to make clothes, the styles were roughly similar to those on the main island of Okinawa. The Ryukyu Kingdom was destroyed by Japan in 1871, and the Ryukyu Domain was established the following year. King Shotai, the last king of the Ryukyu Kingdom, was named King of the Ryukyu Domain and retained royal attire. By 1879 (the twelfth year of Meiji), when the feudal clan was abolished and prefectures were established, the Ryukyu royal family and nobles no longer had distinguished status, and red-shaped clothing also entered the homes of ordinary people. Since then, it has been mostly used as clothing for Ryukyu performance participants and major traditional festivals or ceremonies. (such as weddings, coming-of-age ceremonies, returning home) clothing. Regular clothes for common people continued to be worn by Ryukyu people in daily life, and the red dyeing technique was also used for regular clothes.
Before the 28th year of Meiji (1895), the styles of Ryukyu clothing worn by people from all walks of life in Ryukyu mostly followed the previous generation, and there were no major changes. After that, men began not to tie buns, and the styles of men's Ryukyu clothing were more influenced by kimonos. Women's clothing changed little. They still wore the same clothes and tied buns on their heads as in the Ryukyu Kingdom period, but the left skirt rarely appeared. style. The custom of tattooing the hands was not abolished until the Japanese government banned it in the 15th year of Meiji. After World War II, Ryukyu uniforms developed closer to the kimono style, but the special fabrics and dyeing techniques used still have different characteristics from kimonos, and they still maintain the style of having an obi tied in the front.
Until the mid-20th century, people mostly wore suits and attire. Ryukyu clothing was only worn in traditional cultural related activities, festivals, weddings, or when it was necessary to wear clothing that represented the nationality. It was also often worn by tourists. Experience Ryukyu culture. Modern Ryukyu clothing styles generally retain the traditional style, but there are also improved styles. Belts are no longer just for men. Modern women's Ryukyu suits also have belt styles.