Guiyu Hejilong
Gui Yu he Ji long
Address: G/F, No.59 Chengnan Road, Kowloon City
G/F, 59 Chengnanbi Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong
Tel: 2382 1673
Website: /CHI/chi-about.htm
It is said that Hutchison Whampoa's banana cakes and mung bean cakes are delicious, and even Chow Yun Fat, Cherie Chung and Cai Lan all come here.
It is said that Hutchison is a well-known time-honored brand in Chaozhou pastry industry. It opened in Tsim Sha Tsui in the 1940s, and then moved to Kowloon City, where it stood for more than half a century. Every Mid-Autumn Festival, people who buy Chaozhou moon cakes crowded the store. It seems to be synonymous with Chaozhou cake. However, this road to fame is not easy at all, just like looking for Hutchison Whampoa in Kowloon City. Just a few minutes away, three "Hutchison" with different names appeared, which was a bit confusing. What the hell is going on? What's the story behind it? With doubt, Fang entered a road to find the real thing. ...
Rule number one: don't get angry and hit the wall.
One afternoon, I went to Kowloon City by car, got off at Daguling Road and met the first Hutchison. There is a van parked in front of the door, which is printed with nine Chinese characters of "Hutchison Whampoa, a time-honored brand of half a century". In the shop, a woman in a red vest handed her a business card: "I'm a reporter, and I want to ask some questions about the history of the Black Dragon …" Before the words were finished, the woman stopped: "Come on! Drop the card! Someone presses you, you press, someone presses you, you press. " With that, the woman ignored me and continued to sit down.
After I left, I crossed a street and met the second Hutchison bakery on the south road. In the shop, a man was chatting with a woman and handed him a business card to show his purpose. The man took the business card and said, "I'll call on you. Go back and wait for the call!" " With that, the man walked into the bakery.
Just leaving Kowloon City, I found the third Hutchison-"Guiyu Hutchison" next to Hutchison Bakery and called the woman sitting next to the cashier. Soon, a man in a suit and glasses came down the stairs next to the store, and we exchanged business cards. His name is Yang Ziyi, and he is the general manager. "I'm not free today, why don't you go back and wait for my call?" "Say, return to the upstairs. I felt a little unhappy when I hit the wall again. I bought a box of banana cake when I left. It was fragrant, soft and fresh. After eating it, my teeth and cheeks still smell sweet. I finally didn't make a trip in vain this afternoon!
Two days later, I still haven't received a call from any room, and I am anxious-"Are you kidding?" Do you want to go again? I was hesitating when the phone rang. It was Yang Ziyi who asked me to meet Black Dragon in Guiyu tomorrow. The other two were never heard from again.
The next day, I went to Kowloon City to find Yang. He is standing in the shop in a suit. When he saw me, he greeted me immediately. Suddenly, an old man came in with a box of Hutchison Bakery: "Is there another one?" "The clerk immediately stepped forward and said," No! I don't approve of buying a bag of cakes. "I bought them all. I didn't even know the border was real ..." The old man left without buying anything. Yang is used to this situation. Without saying a word, he smiled and took me into the bakery. Just in the afternoon, the workers are resting, leaving only the smell of peanuts and sesame seeds. Let's talk about it in two flavors.
I said a few words. Just when I wanted to ask some questions about Hutchison's relationship, he couldn't wait to say, "My branch, my relationship with you has been 30 years. Someone in the secondary department made a mistake. Explain it to me. If dad had listened to me and registered early, there wouldn't be today. " "Yang said, and took out a book" Ingenuity of City Shadows ",which was compiled by the Hong Kong Museum of History and introduced traditional industries." This book was published by the government and sent to museums all over the world to introduce Hong Kong culture. I founded it. Will your words be wrong? "Yang Ziyi patiently opened the book to me. There are pictures of him and his father in the book. In the photo, he is quietly making cakes, which is somewhat different from him who is talking in front of him.
Yang Ziyi's father, Bai Yang, is from Guiyu, Chaoshan, and lives by selling cakes. 1948, he came to Hongkong and founded Hutchison Whampoa in Tsim Sha Tsui with friends, selling grain, oil and food. Yang's father is responsible for making Chaozhou cakes, which are famous for their delicious taste. Many Chaozhou restaurants bought cakes from them at that time. 1969, Tsim Sha Tsui was rebuilt and moved to Kowloon City. Yang's father wanted to raise funds to buy the store, but other shareholders disagreed and decided to bid at a low price. Yang's father won Hutchison at the highest price. But less than a year later, one of the shareholders asked Yang Fu to open a shop in Ciyun Mountain. A year later, he moved to Kowloon City near their store, but Yang Fu didn't pursue it again. 1975, another shareholder saw it and opened another store, only a few stores away from them, and Yang Fu did not pursue it. That year, Yang Ziyi was sixteen years old and had just joined the bakery to help his father.
"wow! Even if I lend you a name, I won't copy it word for word! My calligrapher Juck Zhang wrote, "I also salute Juck Zhang, but the decoration is not special, even the cake box is the same. No wonder people make mistakes. "Even my classmates think my family is rich, three stores? Zhong is not a prince! I told the details, and even the Chaozhou neighborhood didn't believe me. Speaking of this, he became excited and sat beside him as if he had a sigh of relief.
Yang Ziyi knows very well that the values of the previous generation are different from ours. "I told him as soon as I joined. It's better to register a name first, but everyone here is eating under a name. It's meaningless to care!" Let's talk about business again. Don't make too much noise. I just want to register, but I can also give it to celebrities. If I want to talk about business, I don't need to worry too much. If I can order you! Since it is, at the beginning, the ghost paid the bill. What's the bid? I know exactly how this village feels. Once I heard him say that when it was all right, Zhong went to say hello to one of them, only to know that the other party had ignored me. I went back and told him that he asked me to count. Equal as enemies, will they compete? But he seems ignorant! 」
"I remember one time, someone made a sacrifice to Chaozhou according to one of them, and people didn't know how to do it, so they came and called him for help, and he helped? Zhong asked me to do it. I told him that people do business in the same way, and the result was another sentence-business is my business, and you don't care much about me. I sacrificed all the way late, I really want to ruin the sun! If you don't think you are a good person, people will appreciate you. Finally, if you are not nervous, sign up quietly. " He got excited when he said it, and swung.
Yang Ziyi told me that in 1999, relatives of one of the shops opened a "Hutchison Whampoa" outside, and the two sides turned against each other. Afraid of losing money, the second generation of that store registered its name first.
"Follow the publicity around Hengzhong, saying that I am an authentic Hutchison Whampoa and have opened several branches. I was told that I want to go public. You made a mistake! You can say it at eight! It is clear that crocodiles evolved from dinosaurs, and the family actually said that they were ancestors. They all know a name and ask me to borrow it, so they can talk big! 」
Yang Fu finally became nervous after knowing that he might not be able to use this name any more. "He told me-they only blame themselves for being affectionate and tired! Call a lawyer for me and Zhuzhong. Can you sign your name? After listening to his words, of course I support him. But I don't know how to laugh, how to feel and how to react. I have registered before, but I make friends every day. " Business is my business, so you don't care about me! "I will always remember it, but it will always be my old bean. I dare not. It's just been years. I think this road is too wrong. " At this time, he was silent for a while.
Yang Ziyi found a lawyer and a bid certificate. When it comes to litigation, he gets excited again. "This is written in black and white, and I really want to know how to explain it. I know he's been changing lawyers, and when a new lawyer appears, he wants to negotiate again. When dad knows, he will personally talk to the first generation who borrowed his name, but the other party will say-it's the next generation, but he doesn't quite understand it? ! do you know that or not？ I really want to know! Can you blame each other? I am the only one to blame. Nothing to talk about! 」
The lawsuit started in the middle of 1999, but it has never been successful. However, in 2000, Yang's father was in trouble, so he needed to stay at home for a long time. Yang Ziyi took over his father's Chaozhou bakery with a tangled name. What happened afterwards? I was about to ask when I suddenly heard the sound of the machine starting, which was a bit noisy. It turns out that several workers have returned to work. Yang Ziyi shyly asked me to talk about it tomorrow, and gave me a box of banana cakes when he left.
The next afternoon, I went to Yang Ziyi again. When I arrived, he was teaching the staff to make Chaozhou candy in the bakery. "Too strong! It's not difficult to pull sugar! You have done it for me many times. " Yang said nervously. When he saw me coming, he immediately greeted me: "I am making duck neck candy today. Do you want to see it? " 」
Wearing a uniform, he was not as angry as yesterday, with a smile on his face, and showed me around: "When you cook syrup, you bake peanuts ... you have to cook and eat, and the duck neck candy is delicious first ..." Yang explained enthusiastically, but his heart flew to the lawsuit with unknown results.
When I mentioned the lawsuit, his face immediately fell. First he was silent, then he said a bunch of registered legal terms. Seeing that I was not interested, he told me bluntly-"I lost legally! 」
As for the result, he said, "The lawsuit dragged on for two years, but the lawyer told me to give up, so I had to fight-why didn't I pursue it more than 20 years ago?" Explain that you verbally promised to lend your name to others after the auction? How long can I borrow things? People have promised. Why don't you register? Did you sign the contract? Any witnesses? I was dumb when I asked! I really want to know something! But dad had a stroke and didn't want to disturb him. When I got home, I didn't tell him that I would lose or win. I just told him I wanted to change my name. He listened carefully and said-you decide! I know it's not easy for them. No way! People and places have legal documents, and I have to get an old tender, which is legally doomed to lose. 」
At present, industrial and commercial registration in the bakery is Gui Yuzai, and Hutchison is just a publishing house in Yang Ziyi. He didn't want people to make a mistake, so he added the word Guiyu. The publishing house is upstairs, and he designed the cake boxes and cards.
The concept of "ghost fish" doll made by mainland craftsmen originated from the image of Yang's father who sold cakes when he was young.
"How can make publishing? I haven't finished asking, he has rushed upstairs and brought a lot of things down. There were leaflets, redesigned cake boxes and cards, and there was a doll he had designed. His smile came back: "I designed it four years ago, and a doll named Gui Yuzai turns once a year. The cake box is patented, and the cards are all designed by me. It can be used for origami, just like a patent. " 」
He is 47 years old. There are eight brothers and sisters in his family, but only he is interested in making cakes. He joined the bakery as a helper at the age of nine, dropped out of secondary two, and then joined Hutchison Whampoa. Yang never regrets his decision. "I really care about making cakes and studying hard. The most important thing is that the work is beautiful and gives me many opportunities to play. " 」
Yang Ziyi has two sons. The eldest son is fifteen. He once said he would help him. I want to visit him. He was afraid that his classmates would laugh and that he would not be photographed. Yang doesn't object to his son's interest in inheriting his father's business. "There are three stores in one street, and there are people arguing. Chaozhou people is superstitious and wants to know people. They will hold the Magnolia Victory Festival, offering sacrifices to 40,000 to 50,000 mosquitoes at a time. I believe this business is promising. 」
Therefore, he always tirelessly does a good job in the cake shop. Although he only learned to design and print in recent years, he has become a member of the Hong Kong Inventors Association by virtue of the patented design of cake boxes and cards. He has other parts in the "Innovation and Technology Exhibition" and "Industry Exhibition" of the exhibition.
"If you want to learn, you don't know. If you don't learn, I will have my own cake box, dolls and even cards, so I won't be copied! " Renovation a few years ago, I wanted to change even the signs. Obviously, the three rooms are paved differently and the solution will be exactly the same. However, the signboard of the history museum is very valuable. Keep it for the first time, but I'll add a thin new signboard to it. It's nuclear ... but it's better than the same! 」
After the lawsuit, Yang's father retired completely, and the shop fell into his hands, quietly changing. The variety of food has doubled. In addition to the traditional mother cake, money cake, duck neck candy and so on. There are also black sesame soft cakes and old shortcakes made by him. He also introduced new machines from abroad-German steamer, American jinao, Japanese cake press, Taiwan Province sesame frying machine ... How much money he invested, even he can't remember.
"I will give you a lot of money. I will go to Japan three times for all the machines. I will help you do all kinds of things with the machine. You can go to other stores and there are many more. " There are hundreds of Chaozhou cakes. Usually, a master only knows a few kinds. He has been in the bakery since he was nine years old! I have been with 26 teachers, and what I have learned is written in my diary. "When my family retires in the sunshine, I know what to do. Even my father knows a lot, let alone others! " I'm in charge of the recipe, and I'll let the workers make it by machine, just like Coca-Cola Company. Can others copy it? He wrote the exhibition "Eight Peaches" at the Hong Kong Museum of History. "Many years ago, the new master of another shop came to ask me. You think I'm stupid? He wants to know if I am stupid enough to teach him to do this. " Yang Ziyi said proudly.
Then he took me to see the most expensive machine, which is a multi-million refrigerator. It is very cold and the steel is six inches thick. Chaozhou cakes contain a lot of water and are easy to deteriorate. There was no refrigeration equipment before, and the store could make dozens of cakes at most. Now you can put the dough in the freezer first, so that workers can cook less, and naturally there can be more styles.
"Chaozhou bakery dared to make all kinds of cakes before? It will definitely erode the big book. Moreover, it can be cooked in several days at home, just like wine, cooked one day earlier and steamed the next day, so that guests can eat the freshest food. Before the change, they started cooking in the morning and didn't finish it at dusk, so they sold it every other night. Do you like it? In the past, you had to hire a lot of masters, and you had to keep buying and changing machines at home, so you didn't think it was hard money. I don't even know how to solve the problem of multi-person fighting. 」
After watching the machine, we went back to the store together, and there were posters of "Gui Yuzai" posted by him everywhere. The glass cabinet is full of new cake boxes designed by him. Different from some young people in the workshop who reformed their ancestral businesses, I felt another meaning from his words and deeds, that is, spirit? Still not convinced? I don't know. I only see customers coming in and out of the store. Business is good, and some are as far away as Chai Wan. "Do you want to thank the lawsuit?" I asked, "or! I'm sorry! At the reception of Chaozhou Chamber of Commerce, I specially called bury, but she didn't come! 」
It seems that this knot can't be solved overnight.
Chaozhou cake is like an art, with simple materials, which can not be separated from cheap ingredients such as glutinous rice flour, peanuts, sesame seeds, maltose or beans. But in different ways, we can make cakes with different colors, shapes, tastes and tastes.
Traditional Chaozhou cakes are generally divided into four categories: cakes, sugar cakes and cakes. Either way, freshness is the major premise, which Guiyu and He Long have done.
A. Money cake $ 10/ 12 pieces
The taste is dry and solid, with glutinous rice and sesame flavor, because glutinous rice flour and white sesame are fried together.
B. golden pineapple $ 12/4.
The outer layer is broken almonds, with a little burnt fragrance. One bite will loosen it, and there are five capsules in it.
C duck neck candy ￥ 15/4 pieces
A bite has a heavy sesame flavor and tastes hard and tough. The outermost layer is fried white sesame seeds with syrup in the middle, and the innermost layer is crispy peanut crisp, which is the most difficult Chaozhou candy to make.
D. White-skinned mung bean cake $ 15/4
The outer layer is crisp, and the Chaozhou water frying process was originally used-adding water when frying to make the skin more loose. The stuffing is only mung beans, spices and sugar, which is very fresh.
E. banana cake $ 15/5.
The cooking time of glutinous rice paste is shorter than usual, more water is added, and the taste is softer than usual. It is soft and sticky, but it will not be stored for too long. It is the best to eat within one day after purchase.
F. Wine $3.50/piece
There are three choices, taro, bean paste and bean kernel. Personally, I like taro best, which is sweet but not leaking. It has a little vanilla flavor in the mouth and a moist and soft taste. Formerly known as Quguo, it was named "Jiuguo" for beautifying its name by adding a kind of Qucao.
G. sugar spray $ 15/4 pieces
Peanut has a strong fragrance, and it is hard and brittle when you take a bite. Yang Ziyi's favorite Chaozhou candy-"I just like this candy!" It is made of raw beads, fried with clothes, and then mixed with malt syrup and flowers.
H. black sesame soft cake $4/ piece
A bite is very smooth and oily, with a strong black sesame flavor. It was originally made of fresh black sesame, which is a new invention of Yang Ziyi.
First, the peach blossom 3 yuan/a.
The taste is wet, and a bite is salty. * * * There are three different flavors to choose from, fried glutinous rice, mung bean and white bean. The outer layer is glutinous rice skin with natural edible pigment. Smoke is tough and sticky, so chaozhou people is used to drinking tea.
J. Mom's cake is $4/piece
The outer layer is glutinous rice flour and the filling is mung bean paste. Because it is steamed and soft, it is said that it used to be a snack specially made for the elderly, so it is also called mother cake.
Guest speech ...
Teacher Chen: "I like mung bean cakes very much. I came to buy it for you today. I've been eating for a few minutes myself. 」
Mr. and Mrs. Liu: "I'm chaozhou people, and I'm here to order a wedding cake today. My three women are all here to help me. I like to eat candy. Peanuts are so fresh. " 」