Since the end of 1970s, denim has been greatly developed in China for many times. At present, its annual production capacity is expected to exceed 654.38+0.5 billion square meters, and it has become an important producer of denim in the world. A large number of advanced denim and denim garment enterprises have basically reached international standards in quality and variety, which has initially reversed the concept that China denim products belong to "low-grade products" in the international market.
Although the development and production of cowboy products in China started late, it started at a high level, with advanced equipment such as air spinning, automatic winding, warp dyeing, shuttleless loom (rapier, gripper and air jet) and heavy-duty pre-shrinking finishing machine, which created good conditions for the development of cowboy varieties and the improvement of quality level. However, for a long time, some equipment with excellent performance and complete functions, such as electronic multi-arm, multi-color, uneven winding, rapid variety change and unmanned operation, have not attracted enough attention, resulting in a waste of functions. In order to better serve variety development and improve quality and labor productivity, this situation needs to be solved urgently.
At present, the most popular denim varieties at home and abroad are mainly ring spinning denim, warp and weft slub denim, super indigo dyed denim, color matching denim, color matching denim, weft elastic denim and so on.
Ring spinning denim
With the development and application of new technologies and equipment such as ring spinning with high speed, large package, fine winding and no knot, the shortcomings of short spinning length, low production efficiency and many knots have been solved. The situation that denim yarn is replaced by air-spun yarn is changing rapidly, and ring spun yarn is likely to make a comeback. Because ring spinning denim is superior to air spinning denim in some properties, such as hand feeling, drape, tear strength and so on. Moreover, it is also influenced by people's psychological return to nature and the pursuit of the original development of cowboy style. More importantly, the surface of ring spinning jeans will show a hazy slub style after grinding and washing, which meets the individual needs of today's jeans. In addition, slub yarn denim is very popular in the market at present, and ring spinning slubs can spin shorter and denser slubs, which also promotes the development momentum of ring spinning denim.
Slub denim
When slub yarns with different yarn numbers, different slub thicknesses (relative to the base yarn), different slub lengths and pitches are designed, and slub yarns are arranged in single warp direction or single weft direction and warp and weft direction, and are properly arranged with ordinary yarns with the same number or different number, various slub denim can be produced, and various hazy or clear plaid denim can be formed after washing, which is welcomed by consumers with individual needs. In the early days, almost all slub denim used ring spinning slub yarn. Because it can be spun into slub yarn with short length, small pitch and relatively high density, it is easy to form dense embellishment effect on the cloth surface, mainly in the warp direction. With the development of market consumption demand, warp and weft two-way slub denim is very popular at present, especially the two-way slub denim products with weft elasticity are very popular in domestic and foreign markets. However, as long as the weave structure of some varieties is well designed, a single variety of ring-spun yarn can be used in the warp direction and a proper proportion of slub yarn in the weft direction, and the effect of warp and weft two-way slub cowboy can also be achieved.
Weft elastic denim
With the adoption of spandex elastic yarn, denim varieties have developed into a new field, which can make denim clothing close-fitting and comfortable, and then match with slubs or different colors, making denim products more suitable for fashionable and personalized consumption needs, thus having great development potential. At present, elastic denim is mostly weft elastic, and the elastic elongation is generally 20% ~ 40%. Elastic elongation depends on the weave design of the fabric. The smaller the warp and weft tightness on the loom, the greater the elasticity. On the other hand, when the warp knitting tightness is fixed, the greater the weft elastic yarn tightness, the smaller the elasticity, and the weft tightness reaches a certain level, or even loses elasticity. In addition, the outstanding problem of the finished fabric of elastic denim is that the weft shrinkage is too large, generally above 10%, and even as high as 20% in some cases. The instability of cloth width has brought great difficulties to garment production. The first solution is not to make the elastic stretch too large in product design, generally taking 20% ~ 30%, that is, to maintain a certain warp and weft tightness, and to increase the tension properly in pre-shrinking finishing to make the cloth width shrink greatly, so as to obtain a lower residual shrinkage in the weft direction of the finished cloth; Another solution is to heat-set the pre-shrunk elastic denim to obtain a more uniform fabric width, a more stable and lower weft shrinkage rate, and meet the requirements of garment processing and production.
Denim with special color
Because the clothes made of super indigo dyed denim or super deep indigo dyed denim can get rich and bright colors after polishing and washing, they are widely welcomed by consumers. "Super indigo" dyed denim has two characteristics: extremely deep dyeing depth and excellent color fastness to rubbing and washing. The former means that the amount of indigo dye dyed on yarn per unit weight (generally expressed as% of yarn dry weight and% of dyeing depth) is very large. For example, the dyeing depth of conventional denim warp is 1% ~ 3%, while the dyeing depth of "super indigo" needs to reach more than 4% to be called super indigo or super deep indigo. The latter means that "super indigo" dyed jeans need to be washed repeatedly for more than 3 hours, and their color depth can still reach or exceed that of conventional dyed jeans without washing, and their color light is much brighter than that of conventional dyed jeans. For indigo dyed denim, its essence depends on the penetration degree of the dye into the yarn, not the abrasion fastness of the dye itself (the wet abrasion fastness of indigo is only 1), that is, the better the penetration degree, the better the abrasion fastness.
In the past, the so-called "indigo dyeing rapid washing process" actually made indigo dye penetrate into the core of the fiber very shallowly during the yarn dyeing process, so that when denim clothing was ground and washed, a thin layer of dye on the yarn surface was removed, exposing more white yarn cores, which made the color fade quickly, thus achieving the effect of fading immediately after short-time grinding and washing. On the contrary, the dyeing process of "Super Indigo" requires that the dye can penetrate into the core well, so that the denim clothes can get deep and bright color after grinding and washing.
Because the dyeing depth of "super indigo" dyed denim products is more than 60% higher than that of conventional denim dyeing, the indigo concentration of the dyeing solution will also double, even reaching 3 ~ 4g/L, and it is possible to obtain a deeper color. In this way, the viscosity of dye solution increases, the fluidity becomes worse, the permeability of dye leuco is affected, and the color fastness of denim decreases, which can not meet the demand of final depth in clothing production. Therefore, some enterprises adopt the design of increasing the dyeing depth again, so that the indigo concentration in the dyeing solution increases again, and the permeability becomes worse, forming a vicious circle, and still can not meet the requirements of "super indigo" color. The higher the concentration of indigo in dye solution, the heavier the red light and the darker the color, and there is no "super indigo" effect. Therefore, at present, many manufacturers have or are going to reform the dyeing and sizing equipment, and solve this problem by increasing dyeing passes. For example, if the number of dyeing passes is increased to 8 or even 10, it will not only increase the investment cost and the consumption of dyeing materials, but also increase the difficulty of operation and increase the pollution to the environment. A better way to solve this contradiction is to appropriately reduce the dosage of sodium hydrosulfite or caustic soda, especially to control the dosage of caustic soda, so that the PH value of the dye solution is stable between 1 1 ~ 12, the dye uptake is the highest, the color is stable, and at the same time, the dyeing tension of warp yarn is appropriately reduced, so as to obtain a better "super indigo" dyeing effect.
Colour matching denim with indigo as the primary color
In order to increase the color and tone changes of indigo denim varieties, various color matching denim varieties are very popular at present. For example, indigo dye black sulfide, indigo dye grass green sulfide, black green sulfide, blue sulfide and so on. To meet the individual needs of the market. At the same time, denim production enterprises have their own patented new denim varieties to improve market competitiveness. In this regard, attention should be paid to controlling the concentration of mother liquor as much as possible to prevent excessive overflow of dye liquor from causing dye waste and expanding environmental pollution.
Colored (assorted) denim
There are mainly bromine indigo denim and black sulfide denim, coffee, green, gray, khaki and blue sulfide denim dyed with sulfide dyes, and a small amount of red, pink and princess denim dyed with Nafto dyes or reactive dyes. Although the production batch is not large, the market demand is urgent and often cannot meet the needs. The main problem is that the color is not stable enough, the dyeing attention is poor, and the clothing manufacturers are not satisfied. This is of course related to the small production batch and too many colors, but it is difficult, costly and difficult to treat sewage by printing and dyeing sizing machine. The first solution is to minimize the number of color combinations, try to use two color combinations, no more than three color combinations, or replace them with other stable dye varieties to adapt to the production characteristics of dyeing machines and obtain stable dyeing effects; Secondly, a more thorough solution is to adopt the production process route of large-capacity dyeing and warping of yarns in yarn-dyed factories to produce denim with different colors.
Weave specification of traditional denim and color denim
Denim is made of pure cotton indigo dyed warp and natural weft, interwoven into three correct twill weaves. Generally divided into light, medium and heavy. The weight of light cloth is 200-340g/m2 (6- 10 oz/m2), and the weight of medium cloth is 340-450g/m2 (10-600g). Heavy 7×6, medium 10× 10, light 12× 12 (British Division). The width of cloth is mostly between 1 14- 152 cm. In addition to the above traditional products, there are colors.
1. Denim with different raw material structures;
(1) Elastic denim woven with a small proportion of spandex yarn (about 3-4% of the yarn weight) as the elastic warp or weft of the core-spun yarn.
(2) A snowflake cowboy with a low proportion of polyester-cotton blended yarn as warp yarn and a white space effect after dyeing.
(3) Advanced denim woven from cotton, hemp and cotton wool blended yarn.
(4) Denim woven with medium-long fibers (T/R).
2. Denim with different processing technologies.
(1) Bark Crepe Denim Woven with High Twist Weft.
(2) When the warp is dyed, the dyed denim is dyed with vulcanized or Haichang blue dye, and then dyed with indigo.
(3) Colored striped denim with colored warp yarns embedded in indigo warp yarns.
(4) Hanging white or printing on indigo denim.
Knowledge about "skin"
Among the commonly used Chinese medicines, there are many kinds of medicinal materials belonging to "skin", such as cicada slough, snake slough, mulberry bark, Toona sinensis bark, peony bark, wolfberry bark and so on.
If you pay attention, some peels or vegetable peels in daily life are also traditional Chinese medicine, which has high medicinal value. For example, "Chenpi" (also known as orange peel), commonly used in Chinese medicine, is the peel of mature oranges, which has the effects of regulating qi, eliminating dampness and resolving phlegm, and can be used to treat dyspepsia caused by qi stagnation of the spleen and stomach, abdominal distension and cough and asthma caused by phlegm-dampness. And has good curative effect. The peel of an immature orange is called "green peel", and its effect is completely different from that of dried tangerine peel. The efficacy of Green Pericarpium Citri Reticulatae Viride is mainly manifested in soothing the liver, relieving depression, promoting digestion and resolving food stagnation, and it is mainly used for chest rib or breast pain caused by stagnation of liver qi and epigastric pain caused by stagnation of food accumulation. Here are some "skins" with medicinal value in daily life: winter melon skins, which are sweet, slightly cold and diuretic to reduce swelling. Take 30 grams of winter melon skin and take it with water instead of tea, which can treat edema caused by heart disease or kidney disease.
Watermelon Cui Yi (the green skin of watermelon) contains sugar, amino acids and various vitamins. It has the effects of detumescence, relieving fever and summer-heat, diminishing inflammation and lowering blood pressure, and is suitable for patients with edema and hypertension. Take 50 grams of watermelon and Cui Yi, add appropriate amount of rock sugar, decoct in water, and drink after cooling, which has the effect of relieving summer heat. Take 30g of watermelon Cui Yi and 0g of cassia seed10g, and decoct with water instead of tea to treat mild hypertension.
Peanut skin (peanut shell) contains chemical components that lower cholesterol, which can not only prevent hyperlipidemia, but also prevent atherosclerosis and coronary heart disease. Take 50 ~100g of peanut skin, wash it and take it with water instead of tea, which can reduce blood fat and prevent arteriosclerosis.
Peanut coat (peanut wrapped in red outer membrane) can promote platelet production and has certain preventive and therapeutic effects on various hemorrhagic diseases. Take peanut coat 10g and colla corii asini 5g, decoct the peanut coat in water for 30min, filter out the liquid medicine, heat and put it into the broken colla corii asini, and take it after colla corii asini is completely dissolved, which can treat various bleeding syndromes. Because peanut coat can enhance blood coagulation, it is not suitable for people with high blood viscosity, otherwise it will easily lead to thrombosis.
Black bean skin (black bean skin) is sweet and flat, and has the effects of nourishing blood, calming the liver, nourishing yin and clearing heat. It is suitable for dizziness and headache caused by blood deficiency and liver hyperactivity, and hot flashes and night sweats caused by yin deficiency. Take black bean coat 10g, medlar 10g, and decoct in water, which can cure waist and knees weakness and dizziness caused by liver and kidney deficiency. Take black bean coat 10g, floating wheat 10g, and 5 jujubes and decoct them in water to treat night sweats due to yin deficiency.
Pomegranate peel, sour and warm in taste, has the effects of astringing the intestine to stop diarrhea, astringing and stopping bleeding, and is suitable for chronic diarrhea, proctoptosis, hematochezia, metrorrhagia and leukorrhagia. Baking pomegranate peel, grinding it into fine powder, and taking it with warm water for 5 ~ 10g each time has a good effect on treating chronic diarrhea and dysentery. Take 50 grams of fresh durian skin (or dry skin 10 gram), decoct in water and take it with honey, which has the effect of treating hematochezia and metrorrhagia.
Origin:
Peanut coat is the skin of peanuts. Peanut is also called groundnut, because the flower base drills into the soil after landing. The origin of peanuts is Brazil, Peru and China in South America. China, Indian, Pakistani and American all produce a lot.
Refer to "beans" peanuts in "food bank"; Peanut oil is used as "edible oil".
Sexual taste and meridian tropism:
Sweet, astringent and flat.
Efficacy:
Stop bleeding.
Clinical application:
1. Used for spleen deficiency, anorexia, emaciation and fatigue, or beriberi and shin swelling.
40 grams of peanut coat, 40 grams of red dates, 40 grams of red beans, 40 grams of coix seed and 20 grams of garlic are decocted in water twice a day.
2. Used for various hemorrhagic diseases.
Boil 60 grams of peanut skin with water. Peanut coat can stop bleeding.
3. Treat chronic nephritis.
40 grams of peanuts and red dates each, decoction instead of tea, eating peanuts and red dates and drinking soup for a week.
Dosage and usage:
1. decoction: peanut coat; Peanut bran; Peanuts.
Modern research:
Peanut coat contains more vitamin B 1, which is helpful for beriberi. In recent years, according to modern medical research, peanut coat can resist the dissolution of fibrin, promote the production of platelets in bone marrow, shorten the bleeding time, and have hemostatic effect on many hemorrhagic diseases. It can be used for hemophilia, primary and secondary thrombocytopenic purpura, liver disease bleeding, postoperative bleeding, uterine functional bleeding, cancer bleeding and visceral bleeding such as stomach, intestine and lung, but it has poor effect on severe bleeding, and can generally be used for the above bleeding.
It is speculated that its hemostasis principle may be related to many factors, such as increasing the number of platelets, improving platelet quality, strengthening capillary contraction function and improving coagulation factor defects.
The hemostatic effect of peanut coat is about 50 times greater than that of peanut kernel, so pay attention to the dosage when using it. Its hemostatic effective components are dissolved in water and effective after decoction.
Peanut skin can be collected from candy factories and oil factories, or it can be replaced by peanut bran.
Peanut leaves can cure insomnia and be decocted twice in the morning and evening.