Professional decoding: unveiling the mystery of cosmeceutical ingredients

Many people are curious and confused about the ingredients of the product. Here are some unique ingredients:

Moisturizing ingredient 1: hyaluronic acid hyaluronic acid, commonly known as hyaluronic acid. The main function is to prolong the retention time of water in the skin. The moisturizing effect is the best among the humectants at present. However, it is useless to apply hyaluronic acid directly to the skin, because their molecular weight is too large to enter the skin. It needs to be combined with other ingredients to have an effect, and it is ineffective for the skin when used alone. So don't choose products that claim to contain high concentration of hyaluronic acid when buying. The best way is to choose products containing hyaluronic acid.

Representative brand: Cellex-C Xianlishi Component 2: ceramide (molecular butyl) magical moisturizing-ceramide is the most important and highest proportion of intercellular lipids, accounting for about 40% of all oils. Intercellular lipids in the cuticle of epidermis are mainly composed of natural lipids and ceramides. Ceramide can prevent water and oil from entering the body in vitro and maintain the balance of water content in keratin. Ceramide is produced by surface cells, exists in granular cells, and is released from keratinocytes in time to form a complete intercellular lipid specific pathogen free. Ceramide gradually decreases with age, while keratinocytes become larger and larger due to skin aging, resulting in dry and rough skin and poor connection. Supplementing insufficient ceramide from the outside of the skin can effectively improve the adhesion of cytokeratin and reduce water loss. Ceramide is a fatty body composed of ceramide alcohol, fat and sugar. Representative brand: deepwater element III of Venastil, Italy: polyglutamic acid.

Increasing the total amount of natural moisturizing factor (PCA), lactic acid (lactic acid) and uric acid (uric acid) in skin can enhance the moisturizing ability from the inside of skin. γ-γ-polyglutamic acid is made from natural natto by fermentation and γ -ray irradiation drying. It has the moisturizing effect of hyaluronic acid and the anti-aging effect of collagen, so it is also called "plant collagen" in Europe and Japan. In addition, it is found through experiments that γ -polyglutamic acid can inhibit melanin and achieve the effect of skin care. In addition to moisturizing and anti-aging, γ -polyglutamic acid can also be added to skin care products to improve the sticky feeling of skin care products. As long as 0. 1% ~ 0.5% "γ-polyglutamic acid" is added to the essence, the touch of the essence can be very comfortable. After use, the skin feels as smooth and breathable as talcum powder. Component 4: Glycerol

For dry skin, glycerol forgotten by MM is the best companion for patients with dry skin. Looking at the moisturizing products of major brands today, glycerol is an irreplaceable and indispensable main ingredient. Experiments show that glycerol will not absorb water from the skin to dry it. More for the skin to resist the invasion of external dryness and strengthen the defense ability of sebum. Therefore, professional moisturizing cosmeceuticals must contain glycerol.

Component 4: You may see water here, and everyone will find it incredible. However, water is the biggest ingredient in moisturizing products. The difference between water in cosmeceuticals and other moisturizing products is that many minerals will be added to the water, and the PH value can fully meet the skin's demand for water. Therefore, in general, many water components containing minerals will be added to cosmeceuticals. It has a great effect on moisturizing the skin. The first category: Rhododendronic acid is a compound developed from Rhododendron extract, named potassium digluconate. After research, it is a multifunctional ingredient, and also has the functions of moisturizing, regulating sebum secretion and improving skin elasticity. Dubinic acid itself has the functions of regulating the normalization of sebum secretion, resisting bacteria, removing acne and removing dark spots, and has high safety to skin and mucosal tissues, and can even be applied to oral drugs. However, because of its low melting point, the application of rhododendron acid in the formula is difficult and easy to crystallize, which makes the formula system unstable and the skin feels rough. The researchers synthesized water-soluble diglycidyl acid from Du Minghua acid and glycolic acid, which has high chemical stability and is suitable for a wide pH range of 5 ~ 1 1, and the formula designer can have more room in the choice of formula matrix. Experiment. Every day, an aqueous solution containing 3% active ingredients is applied to the inside of the arm. One arm was tested and the other arm was used as a control. Apply it once in the morning and once in the evening for 28 days (the cycle of skin metabolism). Use CR-300 colorimeter to evaluate L, A and B values. The conclusion is that diethylene glycol diacid can significantly reduce melanin and whiten skin and face. Component 2: Vitamin C (Vitamin C) is familiar to most people. Fundamentally speaking, vitamin C can inhibit melanin production. It has a good desalination effect on liver spots and sunburn. However, vitamin C can't inhibit the production of melanin, so there is no basis for a product to whiten skin with vitamin C. The main function of yzmr China Beauty Vitamin C is actually not used for whitening at first. Dr. Piniel from Duke University in the United States found that hairless pigs would not get sunburned if they were coated with L- vitamin C during the research on the effect of L- vitamin C in reducing ultraviolet damage. Subsequent experiments have also proved that vitamin C is a very special and classic antioxidant, which has the functions of reducing melanin, capturing free radicals and promoting collagen synthesis, especially strengthening the skin against sun damage! Because vitamin C can reduce melanin, smart skin care products manufacturers naturally start to fry products containing vitamin C. They have a tacit understanding that "vitamin C can whiten skin"! I want to remind you that "reducing" melanin means "reducing the original melanin to a colorless state", which does not guarantee that melanin will no longer be produced. To truly whiten skin, besides vitamin C, we also need organic ingredients and effective ingredients that can inhibit melanin production. Whitening ingredients 1: The first thing to say about arbutin is that it has nothing to do with avocado. Arbutin whitening has been very popular in recent years. It is a mixture extracted from the leaves of Polygonatum odoratum, Cynanchum komarovii and Cynanchum komarovii, and has freckle removing components. So arbutin is now widely publicized for freckle removal. But in fact, it takes a lot of measurement to achieve the real arbutin. Arbutin is generally only used for whitening products. Therefore, when buying products containing arbutin extract, we should choose products with high content, and products with low content have no whitening effect. Representative brand: Dr. Ci: Labo (Dr. Shi or Dr. Shi) Component 2: L- ascorbic acid has the following functions: (1) promoting the production of collagen and improving the fine lines and relaxation of skin. (2) Anti-oxidation can capture free radicals and prevent free radicals from damaging collagen, elastic fibers, cell membranes and nuclei, causing aging and skin cancer.

(3) It can reduce the activity of tyrosinase, reduce the production of melanin, reduce the production of melanin, dilute the stain, and have whitening effect. Representative brand: Duke L-C (skin cosmetics) antioxidant.

Component 1: coenzyme Q 10 (ubiquinone Q 10) exists in natural plants and animals, and can be synthesized by human body or obtained from food. It plays a very important role in the process of generating energy in the body. With the increase of age, the Q 10 in the body will be less and less, which will affect the body's ability to generate energy, and there will be symptoms such as fatigue, shoulder pain, fear of cold, decreased immunity and skin aging.

Coenzyme Q 10 is a fat-soluble antioxidant, which is easily oxidized. It is a substance widely existing in the granular glandular membrane of plants, animals and microorganisms. It combines with related enzymes in cell respiration (redox process) to transfer electrons. Its main function is to activate respiratory chain, synthesize and transport energy in cells, resist oxidation, resist free radicals and protect cells. First taken as a healthy food, it has the function of preventing cardiovascular diseases and neurodegenerative diseases. In recent years, it has been found that external use can also protect the skin and can be used as an antioxidant and anti-aging. Especially after Nivea launched a series of products containing ubiquinone, this ingredient gradually became widely known and popular. At present, the concentration of cosmeceuticals is mostly below 1%. Representative brand: Nivea Q 10 Anti-wrinkle Day Cream SPF8 Component 2: idebenone is bright orange powder, belonging to neuroprotective benzoquinone -* * * OG, which is synthesized and transformed from the accessory enzyme Q 10 derivative which can inhibit human free radicals. In fact, idebenone is the latest generation antioxidant, which is synthesized and transformed from coenzyme Q 10 derivative, but its molecule is 60% smaller than Q 10. Medical evidence shows that the efficacy of idebenone is far superior to the common antioxidants in the market, such as vitamin E, Q 10, vitamin C, etc. Not only the molecules are less than 60% of the auxiliary enzyme Q 10, but also it has better penetration to the skin and is more easily absorbed by the skin, so the antioxidant effect will naturally be more significant. In terms of concentration, only one tenth of Q 10 can effectively neutralize and inhibit the formation of free radicals. The study found that a patent had been applied, and only Allergan and EliZAbeth Arden were authorized to use this ingredient. Representative brand: biotherapy Elderberry Benzene Whitening Youth Dew anti-aging ingredient 1: Human growth factor -TNS is called human growth factor, which can effectively improve various aging phenomena. Some people even say that it has the self-reorganization ability of healthy skin tissues. But you would never think that this ingredient is extracted from the foreskin of a baby boy. Seeing this, I can't help but say the characteristics of this essence. Its texture is like sticky blood, and its color is red. In taste, although a lot of spices are added, it still can't cover up a foul smell. Fortunately, it does have a very good anti-aging effect. Skin Medica is the only company that produces human growth factor in the world, and this ingredient is too experimental, which makes Skin Medica quickly become the most famous cosmeceutical brand. Representative brand: skinmedica component 2: Clostridium botulinum botulinum, the main component is high-purity botulinum A, which is a nerve blocker. Botulinum toxin is a deadly pathogen, which secretes toxin during reproduction and is one of the most toxic protein. Scientists and beauticians have taken a fancy to the effect that botulinum toxin can temporarily paralyze muscles. The medical community initially used this toxin to treat muscle movement disorders such as facial spasm, and used it to paralyze muscle nerves, thus achieving the purpose of stopping muscle spasm. However, during the treatment, doctors found that it has an extraordinary effect in eliminating wrinkles, and its effect far exceeds that of any other cosmetics or surgery. Component 3: Collagen peptide Collagen is a polymer protein. Filamentous collagen fibers can keep skin firm and elastic. On the skin side, it forms a reticular support with elastic fibers, providing stable and powerful support for the dermis. With the increase of age, the content of collagen in human body will gradually lose, and the reticular support will gradually become thicker and harder, losing its elasticity. When the elasticity and water retention of the dermis decrease, the skin will lose its elasticity, become thinner and aging, and at the same time, it will lead to fiber breakage, fat atrophy, decreased secretion of sweat glands and sebaceous glands, which will lead to a series of aging phenomena such as spots and wrinkles on the skin, showing its aging.

In addition, collagen also contains a lot of amino acids, which are natural moisturizing factors. One of the unique amino acids, hydroxyproline, has been proved to be the best way for pure collagen to ensure the collagen synthesis of skin regeneration. Representative brand: Vicky Vichy collagen anti-wrinkle cream

Component 4: arginine peptide (hexagonal peptide)

Known as Botox-an active ingredient that mimics the mechanism of botulinum toxin, it is the most effective ingredient of facial expression lines and is rarely used in general skin care products (except HR and EA). At present, the three most popular products on sale are Avotox containing 10% acetyl hexapeptide -3, Bioque serum XL containing 15% acetyl hexapeptide, and Striadril complex (composed of palmitoyl 3- pentapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl oligopeptide). Acetyl -3- Hexagonal Peptide (Argireline) is an anti-wrinkle polypeptide. It works through a unique mechanism to relax facial tension, so if it is used frequently, fine lines and wrinkles on the facial surface can be reduced. The content of active arginine vasopressin in the final product can be 0.00 1.05-0.005%. A study in the International Journal of Genetic Science showed that the concentration of oil/water emulsion was 10%, and the results showed that the wrinkle depth decreased by 30% after 30 days of treatment. Representative brand: janso, n-beCKett component 5: GABA (also known as aminobutyric acid) refers to the principle of wrinkle removal by Botox, which mainly paralyzes muscles locally, stretches muscles that often contract, and then smoothes wrinkles. GABA has a similar effect. It is a naturally occurring amino acid in human body, and has been used for clinical treatment by medical and clinical researchers for a long time. It can help reduce the excitement of the sensory system and achieve the effect of relaxing specific tissues and cells in the body. The application of GABA in cosmetics is mainly through its characteristics of inhibiting nerve activity, so as to slow down the excitement of the sensory central system and achieve the effect of relaxation, so that the skin loses its "memory", thus temporarily reducing fine lines and diluting wrinkles. GABA takes effect very quickly, and the effect can be seen in just ten minutes. In addition to GABA, softeners and wetting agents in instant whitening cream can replenish the lost skin lipids and make the skin fuller. Together, the two effects can immediately reduce the depth and visibility of wrinkles, and the effect can last as long as 12 hours. Representative brand: Dr. Brandt component 6: vitamin A acid, vitamin A alcohol and retinol, but there are only three concentrations. Vitamin A acid is recognized by the medical community as an effective ingredient for wrinkle removal, but vitamin A acid is too * * *, so it is not added to skin care products in various countries. So there are many derivatives, such as alcohol A, ester A, aldehyde A and so on. But the only one that has been proved to be really effective is alcohol A, but alcohol A also has a lot of * * *, which limits its use. Generally speaking, the concentration of 0. 1% is not low, but the lowest concentration of AFIRM is 0. 15%.

SPF 15 is a healthy skin from Lu Deqing, Neutrogena, and its component is retinol (VA alcohol), which can promote the texture, luster and moisture of the skin, and also has a significant effect on fading spots, shrinking pores and reducing wrinkles. Neutrogena immediately became the focus of cosmeceuticals. Later, it determined retinol and added retinol to all products. But in any case, at this price, Neutrogena is worthy of respect, which is much better than L 'Oré al who likes to cheat food and drink. There are too many products on the market that promote the use of vitamin A acid. In fact, vitamin A acid is very forgetful for freckle removal? Glutamate can only promote the production of collagen in the skin itself, and collagen cannot be directly absorbed by the skin. Only vitamin A acid can stimulate the production of collagen. Thereby increasing the elasticity and thickness of the skin. It is the main weapon to treat skin aging caused by ultraviolet damage.

Component 7: Kiin

From 65438-0955, Dr. Miller found that plant cytokinin Kainting Kiin, as a natural growth hormone of plants, can effectively delay the process of plant senescence. Ketamine Kiin has a small molecular weight, can penetrate deep into the dermis of skin, has the function of activating skin cell growth hormone, and at the same time, ketamine also has a strong antioxidant capacity. Studies have confirmed that Kiin has a similar delaying effect on human skin cells. Kiin can penetrate deep into the dermal layer of skin, activate fibroblasts, delay and mediate the natural aging process of cells, and strengthen the water retention ability of stratum corneum. Surprisingly, Kiin does not produce any * * and photosensitivity while eliminating skin wrinkles and fading spots, so it can be used in the morning and evening to make the skin anti-aging and repair all day. Representative brand: Kinerase SPF 15 Healthy skin ingredient 8:α lipoic acid Many scientific evidences show that zinc sulfonate, when taken as a nutrient, is helpful to human health, but it is still in the theoretical stage and has not yet reached a conclusion. Although zinc sulfonate has been used to remove wrinkles, it has never been done on human body. Experimental Dermatology, 2000 10, pages 578-582), these in vitro experiments are based on cultured fibroblasts, which are different from real skin. In vitro experiments, we can clearly know that zinc sulfate is a powerful antioxidant, but there are other powerful antioxidants in the world, and zinc sulfate is not the only one to choose exfoliating ingredients: fruit acid (AHA, α hydroxy acid).

It can dissolve adhesive bonds of necrotic cells, promote exfoliation of stratum corneum, differentiate and regenerate deep cells, accelerate skin renewal, improve skin texture, reduce facial fine lines and wrinkles, repair sunburned skin, and has the function of fading dark spots. It is a good anti-free radical matrix and can protect cells from free radicals. Fruit acid is a substance that people love and hate in the beauty industry. But a good effect requires a high concentration of fruit acid. Only doctors can use high concentration of fruit acid. Private use can cause serious damage to the skin. Therefore, when buying products containing fruit acid, we must be careful not to choose products with too high fruit acid content.

Acne removal class

Component 1: Salicylic acid Salicylic acid's name is believed to be known to many people. Many people think salicylic acid can whiten skin. In fact, salicylic acid has an excellent effect on removing aging keratin. But also can promote the metabolism of skin in new cities, prevent the generation of aging keratin, and thus reduce the appearance of acne. And reduce the generation of blackheads. Therefore, when choosing acne products, it is usually enough to choose products containing salicylic acid. Representative brand: Avon oil-removing and moisturizing essence. Component 2: Allantoin is white crystal, non-toxic, tasteless, asexual and non-allergic. Soluble in hot water, hot alcohol and dilute sodium hydroxide solution, slightly soluble in water and alcohol, but insoluble in organic solvents such as ether and chloroform. Its saturated aqueous solution (concentration 0.6%) is slightly acidic. 1, which can promote the growth of skin cells and heal wounds quickly. Used as anti-ulcer drug, mixed with aluminum hydroxide as anti-inflammatory agent for digestive tract ulcer. It has good curative effect on osteomyelitis, diabetes, liver cirrhosis and cancer. 2. Used as the raw material of advanced cosmetics, it can make the skin soft, wrinkle-resistant, elastic and shiny, and also has the functions of avoiding light, sterilizing, antisepsis, relieving pain, deodorizing and antioxidation. 3. Biologically, it is a plant growth regulator, which has the functions of increasing yield, fruit setting, ripening and rooting. Allantoin can promote the growth of cell tissue, affect the rapid granulation growth of epidermis and accelerate the renewal process. Representative brand: Rlastil anti-allergic skin cream Deliskin cream 50ml transmission promoting ingredient 1: peptide.