People say that imitation is the most sincere form of compliment-submarine is not only one of the most popular watches, but also one of the most popular watches for counterfeiters. Regardless of age, wealth or education level, people all over the world are far less eager for other watches than divers. Before delving into "whether there is a date", let's re-examine the reasons why this watch is so admirable. Why do people like Rolex divers?
On the one hand, Rolex divers, led by Royal Oak of AP or Nautilus of Patek Philippe, almost paved the way for the rise of luxury fine steel sports watches. Part of the reason is its design. Although I started my life as a pure "professional" sports watch, its simple design looks great on my wrist.
Secondly, as a commercial product, submarines have a high reputation. Undoubtedly, this easily recognizable element is still the first choice of many customers in the watch market. This is also the reason for the long-term success of this series.
Third, celebrities. From Tom Hardy (stainless steel black dial "date") to Bruce Springsteen (stainless steel black dial "no date"), countless people like to wear submarines. Of course, there is James Bond, who is a hero and even a role model for many people who have worn submarines.
In Bond's first film No Doctor, sean connery wore a diving suit No.6538 without a calendar, as well as in Love and Love, Goldfinger and Thunderball. George lazenby also wore 6538 and calendar 55 13 in the Secret Service. Similarly, roger moore used the same pattern in Life and Death and The Golden Gunner.
In Living Sunshine, Timothy Dalton is a diver with a calendar. 65438+ 166 1989 homicide license. The watch that Bond chose not only attracted the attention of men. This also proves that submarines can serve both secret service personnel and fashion people. Divers can make Bond wear a tuxedo in casinos, and they can also use it when diving and frolicking on yachts, so fashionable white-collar workers can definitely wear it when working in the office.
This tells us that the submarine's lasting success is attributed to three basic factors. Including: powerful but easily recognizable design, obvious male charm and versatility.
After introducing the basic knowledge, we continue to introduce the story of the original class of "no calendar" divers. The practical oyster diving watch was founded in 1953, and was launched in the Basel world the following year. It is called the first diving watch with a waterproof depth of1100mm. ..
In the early1940s, Rolex faced challenges. Geneva-based watchmakers are completely surrounded by the Axis countries of 1942, thus isolating them from the international market. Fortunately, at the end of 1940s, diving began to become a sport. Rolex applied for a patent for its famous oyster case in 1926 s, which provided the perfect equipment for the rise of tool watches. It was not until the early 1950s that the tool list really began to appear. It was during this period that Rolex began to cooperate with professional divers to create the perfect diving watch.
Rolex called its tool list "professional", and its first series began with the oyster explorer and the oyster diver. The first submarine 6204 was equipped with a rotatable scale bezel to show the time of entry and decompression, and the water resistance was1000 m, then the water resistance was raised to 200m in the next year, and finally it reached the 300m water resistance of today's common diving watches in 1979. These achievements explain why Rolex believes that its diver series is closely intertwined with diving history. In addition, the use of oyster steel is also related to the inheritance of this series. Oyster steel belonging to 904L series is particularly resistant to corrosion.
At 1950, Rolex introduced automatic movements with date function in some watches. However, it is completely understandable why the submarine still has no date function at this time. After all, in the era of exploration and bold attempts, the marketing goal of "professional" watches is based on adventurers and activists. In the postwar1950s and1960s, the users of Rolex tool watches included astronauts, divers and explorers. Even the Royal Navy cooperates with Rolex. Submarine 55 17 These naval watches certainly have no date function. They are called "military" submarines and are only used for military purposes. Now they are very popular.
It was not until 1969, the year when man landed on the moon, the first test flight of Concorde and the Beatles' Abbey Road album, that Rolex released the calendar version of submarine 1680. In view of the fact that computers were not popular in life at that time, having dating function is much more important than we think today. This gives Rolex an opportunity to wear high-quality and very reliable watches for men every day. Therefore, the experienced diver became an excellent daily watch because of the social development factors at that time. Rolex tool table and Rolex watch with date function coexist from now on.
For many reasons, the date is not only a very useful function, but also aesthetic. It is also the symbol of Rolex, and it also has a good story. According to legend, Wilsdorf's design of the Cyclops lens was inspired by the water droplets on his watch when he washed his hands, which enlarged a small part of the dial.
In the decade after the economic recession lasted from 65438 to 0970, cheap quartz watches became more and more popular. However, thanks to the marketing strategy of showing mechanical watches as luxury goods, Rolex and its submarine models have survived the crisis. This reputation continues to this day. Secondly, the launch of the date watch changed it from a tool list to a more useful daily watch. As time goes by, Rolex watches are still a symbol of wealth and success, even for steel divers, because of Rolex's superb marketing skills.
Many people choose divers to accompany them for life. After all, the story of the diver provides it with a well-deserved reputation of high value and high style, and it also symbolizes desire and achievement.
At the end of 2020, Rolex launched a new generation of Submariner submariner with a size of 465,438+0 mm, which attracted wide attention. These include seven new versions of the Volkswagen Calendar submarine and the non-calendar version of 124060.
The new submarine calendar has a series of new colors, and these stars in the watch industry are obviously different. 126 10LV (oyster steel, black dial and green bezel), and bold12618lb (18k gold, blue dial with blue bezel).
All new models are equipped with 3235 movement (with calendar) or 3230 movement (without calendar). Both movements have a 70-hour power reserve and are equipped with Rolex Chronergy escapement. This kind of escapement enjoys a high reputation for its efficient and reliable performance. It is made of corrosion-resistant nickel phosphorus and is insensitive to magnetic field.
In addition, both movements use the optimized blue Parachrom hairspring. In the case of vibration, the accuracy is 10 times that of the traditional hairspring. Blue Parachrom hairspring contains Rolex super coil, which can ensure the regularity of any position. Finally, the position of the oscillator on the Paraflex shock absorber increases the impact resistance of the movement. These movements reflect Rolex's excellent, reliable and technologically advanced watchmaking ability.
As these latest models show, the Rolex submarine is a timeless, perfect, fashionable and ultimately very reliable gentleman's watch. As we said at the beginning, this is the key to its success.
Obviously, Submariner divers is a powerful watch with or without calendar function, which has attracted the hearts of thousands of men. But it is very important for clocks and watches that submarines have a calendar version and do not have stronger inheritance. Of course, in history, divers had calendars because by providing watches with important functions, they brought them to more men's wrists. Nowadays, the necessity of dating function has been ignored by us, because we are surrounded by laptops, mobile phones and smart watches every day.
From the aesthetic point of view, the submarine calendar version is more universal to some extent. This is due to its dial design, especially compared with many colorful calendar products of the same level. In this sense, the latter is a good choice for divers who want to be bold and modern. There are still some people who want to have a dating function, but they are not advocates of cyclops lenses. So it also proves that very small details can have a great influence on watches.
As far as I know, many watch fans may prefer the calendar-free version, which is the purest in design and use. Although the date function will be more useful in daily life. However, primitive divers came into people's sight purely as diving watches for adventurers trying to make progress after the war. Therefore, I am a staunch fan of Rolex calendar-free divers.