The first three lectures in the vertical cutting class have expounded the basic pattern, skirt and platform marking line for three-dimensional cutting of women's clothes. In the process of communication, it is found that many students need to know tools, materials and some cutting terms from the aspect of preparation, which is more conducive to the later study.
In the fourth lecture and the fifth lecture, the arbitration class will focus on the above-mentioned aspects.
tools and materials
tools
1. Needle: 17th fine needle for vertical cutting and fitting, and other forms of pins and beads for standby
2. Needle insert: needle pad, or magnetic needle insert tied to hands or placed on a table
3. Scissors: paper cutter and cloth cutter
4. Pencil and pen.
5. Ruler
Ordinary soft ruler: 1.3 cm x 3.5cm? (very accurate)
91.4cm? Ruler
45.7cm x 5.1m plastic soft ruler (used for measuring)
Square ruler: 61cm x35.6cm metal ruler, with two sides at right angles (which can measure the size and standardize the right angle)
Triangle board: used for measuring straight lines
Ruler bag: used for storing and carrying all kinds of rulers.
6. Curve ruler
French curve board: Deitzgen#17 is a curve ruler used to draw armhole arcs and neckline arcs.
Slay Curved Board: You can draw curves of various shapes.
hip and hem curve board: used to draw hip curve, hem curve and lapel curve.
various curve boards: used to draw armhole curves and neckline curves.
7. tracing wheel
serrated point wheel: transfer the wool sample of grey cloth to paper by point-like wheel printing
blunt wheel: used together with carbon paper for rubbing the shape and stitching of fabric
8. Clover two-wheel tracing wheel: adjustable stitching wheel
9. Thumbnail:
1. Marking scissors: cut .6cm x .16cm at the edge of the pattern to mark the seam and center line, align and distinguish the front and rear pieces.
11. awl: the tip of the awl can be marked with a small hole
12. Tape measure: metal head, and the material of the ruler body is cloth or plastic (temperature will affect the accuracy)
13. Pressing irons of various sizes and weights: fixing the pattern when tracing and cutting
14. Black or colored twill tape: setting modeling lines on the people's bench
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16. carbon paper: transfer the pattern of the grey cloth to the cloth, or copy the pattern on the other side
pattern paper:
buy pattern paper with different weights and colors according to personal needs. Gram of sample paper is generally label paper, Manila paper or hard paper. The one with small gram weight is called marking paper. If you buy inappropriate template paper, you can use kraft paper or other suitable paper to draw the picture.
Three-dimensional cutting fabric: generally, white gray cloth is selected, and different grams of white gray cloth are selected according to different designs.
Coarse cloth: used for vertical cutting or testing of basic styles.
Light fabric: used for soft clothing.
Heavy fabric: with high tightness, used for suits, jackets, coats, etc.
Fabric characteristics and terminology
Cloth is the color used by designers to describe the design of each season. Designers will choose the fabric that best matches the design intention according to their understanding of fabric characteristics and differences.
fabrics are classified according to quality, structure (woven, knitted, blended, nonwoven or plain weave), texture, weight and feel (fabric touch). Designers judge the quality and performance of fabrics and the drape of fabrics by touching, rubbing and observing when purchasing. Clothing materials need in-depth research. Besides reading books, we should also collect fabric samples, and make these samples into a catalogue and a notebook for reference samples.
1. Fabric characteristics
1. Woven fabric: The structure of woven fabric refers to the fabric formed by interweaving straight filaments and horizontal filaments on the loom according to certain rules
Plain fabric: the fabric formed by interweaving straight filaments and horizontal filaments one above the other. Example: cotton cloth, muslin, mercerized cotton
Satin fabric: a fabric in which yarns float once and sink several times, which makes the front of the fabric shiny. Example: antique satin, floral satin, cotton satin
Twill fabric: straight strands and horizontal strands are interwoven at least once every two yarns, and the interweaving point presents a diagonal structure on the fabric surface.
example: brocade, mercerized twill cotton, denim, gabardine, herringbone twill and twill
2. Knitted fabrics: the most common knitted fabrics are plain single-sided knitted fabrics, and rib (weft knitting) is made by stringing loops. This type of weaving yarn has a string that extends in width more than in length. Double-sided fabric is stronger, thicker, with low elongation and better elasticity than single-sided knitted fabric. Well-known warp knitted fabrics include warp knitted fabrics and raschel knitted fabrics, which have low stretching rate and prevent falling off. It is a characteristic of knitted fabric that the fabric size can be changed by controlling the unidirectional or bidirectional stretching of the fabric in the knitting process. Elastic fabric can be realized by yarn crimping process, adding spandex or chemical treatment.
II. Fabric terminology
Grey cloth refers to various grams of bleached or unbleached plain fabrics.
thick: it is mostly used for tailoring or trying on ready-made clothes.
thin: it is used for tailoring light and thin dresses.
thick: it is closely structured, and is mostly used for tailoring suits, coats and suits.
selvage: selvage refers to the narrow edges woven tightly at both sides of the fabric. In order to avoid shrinkage caused by selvage, the selvage can be cut off.
marking lines of the platform
bust line, waist line, abdomen line, hip line, front chest width line, back chest width line, collar line, armhole line, shoulder line, front midline, back midline, side seam and princess line.