Up and down: up and down
One: In December of the fifth year of Chongzhen, I lived by the West Lake. After several days of heavy snow, the voices of tourists and birds in the lake completely disappeared. After the first shift of the day (about eight o'clock), I went to the pavilion in the middle of the lake alone and enjoyed the snow scene with my boat, leather coat and stove. Ice flowers are everywhere, and the sky, clouds, distant peaks and lakes are all white. The shadow reflected on the lake is only the trace of a long dike, the outline of a pavilion in the middle of the lake, my boat and two or three figures in it.
On the pavilion in the middle of the lake, two people sat opposite each other across the felt pad. A little boy is cooking wine, and the water in the wine stove is boiling. When they saw me, they were very surprised and said, "I didn't expect to meet someone like you in the lake." He took me to drink. I tried to drink three large glasses to say goodbye. I asked their surnames and learned that they are from Jinling and live here. After getting off the boat, the boatman murmured, "Don't say" xianggong "(an ancient title for literati) is obsessed. There are people who are more obsessed than Xianggong! " After the death of the Ming Dynasty, Zhang Dai participated in the anti-Qing struggle, and then "entered the mountains" to show his national integrity in a passive way. After Ming's death, concentrate on writing. He was a great essayist in the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties, and his essays enjoyed a high reputation. He is also an expert in tea tasting. He loved prosperity, landscapes, music and opera, and went into the mountains to write books after his death. His essays mostly describe the scenery, customs and his past life of the mountains and rivers in the south of the Yangtze River, and often recall the prosperity of the past, revealing the memory of his passing away. His writing style is capable, rich and graceful, and he has written Dream of Taoan and Dream of West Lake. He is the author of the encyclopedia "Night Sailing Ship", and this article is selected from Zhang Dai's "Tao Anmeng". Zhang Dai was born in an official family with benevolent policies for generations. In his early years, he roamed Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shandong, Anhui and other provinces with rich experience. After three generations' accumulation, his family collected a lot of historical materials of the Ming Dynasty and read a lot. From the age of 32, he will write the biographical history of the Ming Dynasty with family information. After the death of the Ming dynasty, I went into the mountains and poor books.
Zhang Dai has a wide range of interests. He usually pays attention to all kinds of people, trends, people's lives, customs and habits, as well as diet, fruits and vegetables. These are often disdained by authentic literati in the old days, but he has the interest and courage to appreciate and record. He wrote an "epitaph for himself", very frankly admitted that he was not a "servant, and loved wealth", and called himself a "prostitute and an orange abuser".
Zhang Dai paid attention to tea tasting, among which the section of "Fujian Laozi Tea" in "The Legacy of Tao An Meng" was extremely vivid: Yu Yue said, "The fragrance is simple and the taste is very strong. This is spring tea! It is the autumn harvest that counts on you. " Wen Shui said with a smile, "At seventy, no one is like a connoisseur." So I decided to pay. Zhang Dai deserves to be an expert in distinguishing tea.
Zhang Dai is good at tasting tea. He has also carefully transformed Japanese tea in his hometown and created a kind of "Lan Xue tea". "Casting snow buds that day" has been listed as a tribute in the Song Dynasty, and it has the reputation of "Yuezhou casting tea that day is the first in the south of the Yangtze River". However, in the Ming Dynasty, due to the exquisite production method of Xiuning pineapple tea, it became famous for a while and was eclipsed for a while. Zhang Dai "attracts people to the sun", just like making pineapple, by digging, moving, scattering, fanning, frying, roasting and hiding. Then he explored the spring water and found that "when he poured the spring water, the fragrance didn't come out." He boiled spring water and put it in a small pot. The smell was too strong and it was mixed with jasmine. After repeated contests, he put it in an open porcelain jar and waited for it to cool. He washed it with boiling soup, the color is like a bamboo basket, and the green powder is evenly distributed at the beginning, like the beginning of a mountain window. Take a pure white princess, and it tends to be plain porcelain, just like a hundred stems of blue and snow. Xueya understood, but she didn't understand that the rest of the play was called Lan Xue. " ("Tao An Meng Lanyi Snow Tea")
Four or five years later, Lan Xue tea became popular in the tea market. Tea men in Shaoxing have changed the habit of drinking pineapples in the past, but it's not that Lan Xue doesn't drink pineapples. Later, even Songcha was renamed "Lan Xue". Lan Xue tea has this reputation, and the credit goes to Zhang Dai.
In the Ming Dynasty, Shaoxing had already opened several teahouses, one of which made tea, and paid special attention to the boiling water: "The spring is made of jade belt, the tea is made of Lan Xue, and the soup is cooked by spinning, so there is no soup stock, and the utensils are washed in time, and there are no organs. The soup is ready, and some people are with it. " Zhang Dai loved this teahouse very much and named it "Brother Lu", which means "Tea dew has a brother" in Mi Fei. He also wrote "Fighting Tea" for him: "Drinking tea addiction, ancient style, sharp grass and snow buds, which is claimed to be even more unique, especially for illegal cooking, has been dusty in Gezao, and no one appreciates it, resulting in feathers. If you choose a scenic spot, you can raise the Tang League again. Water symbols came from Yuquan, tea wars came to Lan Xue, melon seeds fried beans, no need to Ruicaoqiao, orange pomelo mountain nursery, Ba Ding Shui. It is never sweet, slippery, fragrant, clean or cold. Seven housework, no matter how much rice, oil, salt, sauce and vinegar there is, how can there be less in one day, and bamboo poles can be famous as well. I can't finish seven bowls, and I don't know the tea. A pot of dust is used to talk, and incense is burned on the couch in the morning. I am drunk. " Zaoquan, a famous Shaoxing spring, which was once famous for its Tiger Running Spring and Hui Quan, was once unknown. Zhang Daizhong discovered it again. He described this process in the article "Spring in Spring":
Jia, castrated Bambusa bambusa, sipped water, phosphorus phosphorus has cinnamon pepper. It's different. Look at its color, such as autumn moon, frosty sky, white sky, and light haze coming out of the hole, dazzling and charming, vaguely. I saw calligraphy and painting in a hurry at the wellhead, and with a brush, the words came out. Calligraphy is as big as the right army. Benefit from differences. Try tea. It smells delicious. There are few fishstones in Xinji, so it will be used up after three days. There is no other way to tell the spring water apart from taking the water inlet and licking your tongue and upper jaw. If there is no water to swallow, it will be spring. Good-hearted people will take it to make wine, or open a teahouse in the spring, or sell it in an urn and feed it to a company. Dong Fangbo kept crossing the river and drinking its water. He was willing to give it, but he was afraid of not giving it. He blocked the spring and became more and more famous.
Tea, tea theory and tea people are all described in Zhang Dai's collected works. Zhang Dai is a tea friend. Among his tea friends, "he has come to my house every day for thirteen years, sipping tea and burning incense, and laughing and joking here", as well as the week of drinking tea with him every time. His elder brother, Ji Di Shan Min, likes "Mi Dian Stone, Purple Electric Beads, Mulberry Tea, Dongpo Pork", and his elder brother, who fought for tea with him, "drives the Central Plains side by side, who lives or dies", are also "tea addicts".
Dai is still admiring that tea set. His younger brother, Shanmin, got an antique porcelain pot. He played with it for a year and got a pot of inscription: "bathing in the sun and the moon is also its color, the jade in Ge Yao is also its breath, and the green hills are also its diet." There is also a mysterious tea bowl. Zhang Daiyou said, "At the beginning of autumn, under the green trees. Out of plain porcelain, have a quiet night. " There is also a teapot that has not been carved by the producer. Zhang Dai confirmed that it was written by Gong Chun, and specially wrote: "There are many famous ancient paintings. This pot looks like Gong Chun, and Dabin recognized it. Do you dare? "
Lake Pavilion, located in the West Lake. It is said that when the West Lake was renovated in the Song Dynasty, it was piled into an island with lake mud. In the thirty-first year of Jiajing in Ming Dynasty (1552), a pavilion was built on the mountain, named "Hu Xinting".
This paper describes the quiet scene of the West Lake after the snow with fresh and elegant pen and ink, showing the elegance of Huxiang and the author's interest, and implicitly expressing the author's nostalgia for the old country (Ming Dynasty). Reading and reading, I feel that this is not an article at all, but a pure empathy between the lonely and the lonely, between the lonely and the world, because the author put a lot of things that will be in his heart into the text, brewing a nearly pure artistic conception, broad and quiet.