Fuzhou, an ancient city center with a history of more than 2,200 years, has preserved "three lanes and seven lanes" since the Jin Dynasty. Its basic pattern was formed in the Tang and Five Dynasties, and reached its peak in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, especially in the middle of the Qing Dynasty, becoming one of the important symbols of a famous historical city.
On the first day, after entering from Nanhou Street archway, the pattern of Gu Xiang remained basically intact. It used to be the residential area of Fuzhou literati, and the streets and alleys still maintained their original appearance. Most houses are brick-wood structures, and some modern buildings are brick-concrete structures, only two or three stories high. Walking in the street, I feel a strong sense of history. The squares are connected, the alleys are connected, and the craftsmanship is ingenious, which embodies the residential characteristics of the ancient city of Fujian and Guangdong. Known as "Museum of Ancient Buildings in Ming and Qing Dynasties" and "Living Fossil of China Li Fang System".
Yangqiao Road is the northernmost of the seven hutongs. Lin Juemin and Bingxin's former residence are at the junction of Nanhou Street and Yangqiao Lane. The whole former residence is exquisite and elegant because of its hollow doors and windows, rich patterns, exquisite steps, door frames and flower stands.
Lin Juemin, one of the 72 martyrs in Huanghuagang, and his wife Chen Yiying live in the southwest corner. There is a passage in Lin Juemin's Book of Wives that says, "The house in the back street, the corridor in front of the door, and the front and rear halls are still 30% to 40% folded. There is a small hall and a house next to it, which is where you and I live. We have been married for three or four months. Before and after winter, the moonlight was blocked by sparse plums outside the window. "
Bing Xin lived here when he was a child, and wrote the essay My Hometown, describing his life here: "There are several quadrangles in our family, but they are not like the quadrangles in the north. Just in front of a row or a room, there is a rectangular "patio", and each "patio" has a well, which is almost the characteristic of Fuzhou folk houses. "
After Lin Juemin's death, his father, Lin Xiaoying, led his family to hide in the outer suburbs of Fuzhou in order to avoid the pursuit of Qing soldiers. Bing Xin's grandfather, an old teacher, Xie Yunen, bought this house. Before and after the founding of the Republic of China, the famous writer Bing Xin once lived here. Lin Yinhui, as Lin Juemin's niece, once lived here.
Does this history have anything to do with the rumors that Bing Xin and Lin Weiyin were at odds later?
Bing Xin wrote a novel "Our Wife's Living Room", which is a case-solving in the history of modern literature. The guests in his wife's living room were influential people at that time, such as Xu Zhimo, Shen Congwen, Jin and Hu Shi. Although Lin is his wife, his elegance and generosity make men very happy. At every party, Lin and them are almost the central figures, discussing literary issues.
Bing Xin has never been to such a party. He doesn't like the situation that Lin is praised by everyone, so he wrote a novel "Our Wife's Living Room" to allude to Lin. Lin just came back from Shaanxi after reading the article, so he sent a bottle of vinegar.
It seems that Bing Xin can't appreciate Lin's talent after all. If it weren't for mutual help, would Lin become a poet and novelist so easily? The fame in the history of architecture also borrowed some light from Liang Sicheng. Bing Xin, who has little gossip, has also made a little effort on her own in writing. What's more, Lin is beautiful, which is how Bing Xin can catch up.
In fact, Bing Xin and Lin Weiyin are both from Fuzhou and fellow villagers. Their husbands Wu Wenzao and Liang Sicheng are classmates and live in a dormitory in Tsinghua. They are real classmates. Interestingly, Bing Xin spread from 0755 to 79000, and Lin was remembered by later generations for his affair with Xu Zhimo.
Basically, this area is full of narrow lanes, criss-crossing and paved with stone slabs. Some streets are curved, others are straight and similar. Every alley has a stone archway.
I like the saddle wall here best. Its lines are extremely smooth and beautiful. In the buildings in the south of the Yangtze River, the saddle walls are mostly trapezoidal gables formed by a 90-degree straight line, but the saddle walls of the houses with three squares and seven lanes are curved. The walls are streamlined with the ups and downs of the wooden house, and the corners extend out of the house. Generally, the two sides are symmetrical, and the walls and corners are painted with clay sculptures, which forms the unique wall characteristics of Fuzhou ancient dwellings.
In addition to seeing scenic spots, this ancient building pedestrian street is also beating the pulse of the times. Modern Starbucks and McDonald's are on a par with the historic Yonghe Fish Pills and Fuzhou Soft Cake Shop. You can also eat meat swallow (also called swallow skin wonton) in the street, a special snack in Fuzhou, or eat fish balls in a fish ball shop. Fish skin and pork stuffing are especially delicious.
The Shoushan stone carving in Fuzhou is one of the "three wonders of Rongcheng", and the most attractive thing is the pieces of food carved with Shoushan stone. Every dish is so vivid that people can't wait to take a bite.
The three alleys and seven alleys are not only famous for their ancient buildings, but also represent the fine tradition of Fuzhou people who attach importance to education and love reading. A well-known poem: "ten passengers on the road, half of them are old brothers in the same robe." I remember that the lights of the most urban bridge are very quiet, and the sound of reading in the south lane and the north lane. " Since ancient times, three lanes and seven alleys have been the most cultural places in Fuzhou. When these two poems came out, they spread like wildfire. This has always been the residence of Fujian celebrities. Lin Zexu, Shen Baozhen, Yan Fu, Chen, Lin Juemin, Bing Xin, Lin Shu and many other figures who had a great influence on China's modernization at that time all came from here, which made it full of special humanistic values and enduring spiritual talents.
Tips:
If you just go shopping, you don't need to buy a ticket. Many scenic spots are free.
There are several scenic spots that need to buy tickets to visit. Pass 120, half price for students and people aged 60-69, and free for people over 70.