Songjiang perch culture

Songjiang perch is famous for its fine quality, white, tender and delicious taste. Because of its traditional processing technology and unique flavor cooking, it has been regarded as superior and delicious since ancient times. Songjiang perch is as famous as Yellow River Carp, Yangtze River shad and Heilongjiang hemp salmon, and is known as the "four famous fish" in China.

In the history of our country, there are many works praising Songjiang bass, which are handed down from generation to generation, well-known poems and even wonderful legends. In particular, the allusion of "thinking of perch", as a synonym for homesickness, is still widely circulated and quoted. This allusion comes from Jin Shu Hanshu Zhangzhuan written by Fang Quling in Tang Dynasty, which describes the image of a feudal scholar-bureaucrat who abandoned his official position and returned to his hometown because he loved the beautiful scenery of his hometown.

Book of Jin Volume 92 Biography of Wen Yuan and Hans Zhang contains: Hans Zhang, a Chinese character, was born in. ..... Qi Wangyan became the first lady and also the second lady. Han said in the same county: "There are many disasters in the world. Husband has the name of the four seas, and it is difficult to retreat. People in my own forest have no hope of time, and my son is good at preventing the past and thinking about the future. " ..... Seeing the autumn wind, Han missed Wuzhong's food, soup and perch, saying, "Life is precious because there is no ambition. What does it mean to be famous for holding an official for thousands of miles? " Then he drove home and wrote Fu on the first hill, which was full of articles, but suddenly he was defeated. Everyone told him to play it by ear.

This means that Hans Zhang resigned and returned to the south because he missed his hometown, the bass in Suzhou, Wuzhong, Jiangsu Province today. This is the origin of the allusion of "perch thinking". In fact, this is just a "play it by ear", or an "excuse"! Zhang is a native of Wuxian (now Wujiang City, Jiangsu Province), and his father is Dahonglu. He was born in an official family, brilliant and arbitrary. He came to Luoyang, which was already ruled by the rulers. Sima Jiu, the King of Qi, heard his name for a long time, and immediately hired him as Sima Cao Dong (equivalent to the position of Secretary-General and Senior Advisor of the State Council). After Sima's unification of China, he created a prince and made great use of consorts, which pushed a progressive situation to a chaotic trend. Hans Zhang Mingzhi clearly saw the political situation at that time-the chaos of foreign invasion, which covered up the crisis of coup. This is the famous "King of Eight Kings" in history, which is already explosive. Hans Zhang is a wise man. He despises the "East Cao rafters" and thinks of his hometown, parents and Jiangnan, thus avoiding the mutiny. After the Mid-Autumn Festival that year, it was almost Chongyang, Luoyang autumn wind, and yellow leaves fell. One day, Qi was drinking and having fun in the palace. He quietly aligned himself and said, "Your Majesty, look at the phoenix tree leaves falling, and the autumn wind is coming. I come from the south, which is the best season for water shield and soup bass in Wu Dong's hometown. I want to go home and try some seasonal dishes, and also bring some water shield and Songjiang bass to your majesty. " Wang Qi and Zuiyan dimly heard a famous Jiangnan dish-Coke. He said, "Well, when you go back, don't forget to bring me some famous Jiangnan dishes, especially Songjiang perch." As soon as the banquet was over, Hans Zhang packed his bags and left for his hometown at dawn. This is recorded in the Book of Jin. Maybe people will say: Hans Zhang saw the fallen leaves in autumn, which caused homesickness ... It is clear that although he was a famous man, Hans Zhang was not so greedy, but Hans Zhang left a story recorded in the Book of Jin, and he also wrote a poem-"Thinking of Songs in Wujiang River".

When the autumn wind is beautiful, the Wujiang River is full of water and the perch is fat.

Three thousand miles away, I have not returned to my hometown, and my eyes are rare.

This poem also fully reflected his inner world at that time and saw the reason why he wanted to go home. He doesn't want to eat the beautiful bass in his hometown at all.

Hans Zhang's thoughtful and far-sighted, it turns out that he is a resourceful man. When he returned to Li, the Queen Mother Jia abandoned the Prince in the Western Jin Dynasty, and the Prince of Zhao rose up, killed the Queen Mother Jia and became emperor. Then the King of Qi got up and killed the King of Zhao (AD 30 1), and Changsha killed the King of Qi the following year. When the King of Qi did not taste the famous dishes in the south of the Yangtze River, he became a scapegoat under the sword of the Eight Kings Rebellion. This is the true mentality of Zhang Hansi's "thinking of perching on a tree".

Zhang Hanxiang's move back to Li has aroused the discussion of many scholars. Some people think that he is a noble scholar. For example, the trip of Hans Zhang Guishi in Wu Jun's "Picture Classic" can be described as "acting according to circumstances and killing bass according to intention." However, some people say that Hans Zhang is not necessarily a saint. For example, "Shi Shuo Xin Yu" said: "Zhang, Qi Wang, is in Luo. Seeing the autumn wind, I thought of Wuzhong vegetable soup perch, saying,' Your life is expensive and you don't deserve success. How can you get the title of an official thousands of miles away?' I was ordered to drive home. When the king of Russia and Qi was defeated, everyone told him to play it by ear. "To name a few. But in any case, it takes courage and will for Hans Zhang to leave the officialdom and return to his hometown according to the situation. Zhang Hans should be an aristocratic scholar. After he returned to Wuzhong, he stayed at home, ate soup and perch. He died at the age of 57 and was buried in the East Wuli of Hengshan Mountain in Suzhou today.

Hans Zhang had no intention of pursuing a career, but he left an eternal story. When people think of Hans Zhang's allusion of "thinking about perch", they tend to downplay its original intention and pay more attention to its dietary attributes, which makes Songjiang perch beautiful and glorious for thousands of years.

/kloc-More than 0/500 years ago, Liu Song in the Northern and Southern Dynasties said in the Biography of Zuo Ci in the Later Han Dynasty: "Zuo Ci was a Yu native and a Lujiang native. There were few shinto, so I tried to sit down at Sikong Cao Cao's place. Cao Cao calmly said to the guests,' Today's chamber of commerce has prepared rare delicacies, but Songjiang bass has few ears.' Put it on the next seat, and you should say,' This can be obtained'. In order to store water in the copper basin, he fished out a bass from the plate with a rod bait. Cao Cao clapped his hands and laughed, which surprised everyone. Cao Cao said, "How can a fish be well if it doesn't sit well?" It's even more tempting to put it on the hook, and it's all three feet long, fresh and lovely, so it lasted for a while, and it was at the meeting place in Zhou. "If this record is true, it means that Songjiang perch was praised by people as early as the Three Kingdoms period and before Zhang Han in the Jin Dynasty. Even the mythical magic performed by Zuo Ci is not credible (while the body length of Songjiang perch is only 10 cm, why is it "all three feet long"). However, from the Southern Dynasties to the Song Dynasty, Ye Fan thought Songjiang perch was a delicacy. In addition to literary exaggeration and political factors, Songjiang perch also fully embodies the symbolic significance of "perch" as a specialty of Guwu County and people's yearning for it. Fan Chengda, a poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, wrote a beautiful sentence, "The west wind blows on the four-gill bass, and the cedar is crisp and greasy." He praised Songjiang perch for its excellent color, fragrance and taste. After the Ming and Qing Dynasties, many people came to Songjiang to taste Songjiang perch. According to records, Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty visited Songjiang twice during his southern tour and was full of praise. Later, Emperor Qianlong came to Songjiang on a southern tour, and was praised as "the first dish in Jiangnan" after tasting it. Since then, Songjiang Prefecture has paid tribute to Songjiang perch to the imperial court every year.

From this point of view, since the Wei and Jin Dynasties, the praise of Songjiang perch in some historical books and literary works has mostly come from famous artists and has a wide social influence. With the spread of these masterpieces through the ages, Songjiang perch became famous all over the world and became a treasure among fish.