Natural perfume is the earliest perfume used in history. The so-called natural spices refer to the original and unprocessed parts of plants and animals tha
Natural perfume is the earliest perfume used in history. The so-called natural spices refer to the original and unprocessed parts of plants and animals that are directly used. Or spices extracted or refined by physical methods without changing their original components. Natural spices include natural spices of animals and plants. The most commonly used natural animal spices are musk, civet cat, castoreum and dragon saliva. Natural plant perfume is a mixture of various chemical components extracted from flowers, fruits, leaves, skins, roots, stems, grasses and seeds of plants.
Basic introduction Chinese name: natural perfume mbth: basic concept, development history, variety classification, animal perfume, plant perfume, planting and production, planting and cultivation, raw material selection, extraction method, practical application, laws and regulations, application field, basic concept English name: natural perfume refers to the original fragrance made from the aromatic parts of plants and animals through simple processing, and most of its forms retain the inherent fragrance of plants. Or aromatic substances separated from natural raw materials by physical methods (steam distillation, extraction, pressing, etc.). ), its form is often essential oil, extract, purified oil, ointment, tincture, etc. Such as rose oil, jasmine essence, vanilla tincture, balsam, turpentine, narcissus oil, etc. There are more than 3,600 species of perfume plants found in the natural world of the Atayal nationality, and about 400 species have been effectively utilized. The roots, stems, branches, skins, leaves, flowers, fruits or resins of plants can all be fragrant, such as jasmine and lavender from the flowers of plants; Cardamom, fennel and chicken tongue are taken from fruits; Gan Song and Radix Aucklandiae are taken from roots, while Sandalwood and Lignum Dalbergiae Odoriferae are taken from wood; Borneol and frankincense are obtained from resin. Animal spices are mostly secretions or excretions in animals. There are about a dozen kinds, among which musk, civet cat, castoreum and Long Xianxiang are commonly used. Natural spices are widely distributed in glandular sacs of plants or animals. Natural perfume has its unique fragrance fixing function, coordination function and unique natural fragrance rhyme, which is incomparable to synthetic perfume. The main components of natural spices are terpenes, aromatic hydrocarbons, alcohols, acids, ketones, ethers, esters and phenols. In the history of development, ancient humans used natural spices. It was not until after World War I that the development of synthetic spices began. Rose, jasmine, tuberose, vetiver and iris are still popular natural plant perfumes, and they are also important components of various daily essences such as orchids and oriental perfumes. There are not many kinds of natural animal spices, mainly musk, Long Xianxiang, castoreum, civet and so on. Generally, it can be divided into seven categories: extract, purified oil, essential oil, pressed oil, isolation perfume, tincture and fragrant tree cream. Natural plant perfume is a mixture of volatile aromatic components extracted from flowers, leaves, stems, roots and fruits of plants, or leaves, trees, skins and roots of trees. With the change of people's consumption concept, considering the safety and environmental protection of chemically synthesized substances, the amount of chemically synthesized spices is gradually decreasing. The application of natural spices is more and more extensive. Natural spices are more and more loved by people because of their green, safe and environmentally friendly characteristics. The output of natural spices in the world is increasing at the rate of 10 ~ 15 every year. China is rich in natural plant perfume resources, with more than 500 kinds of aromatic plants widely distributed in 20 provinces and cities. However, due to the backward extraction and processing technology, only some spice resources have been developed and utilized. Many natural plant spices can only be extracted initially, and the yield and purity are low; Even some products are shipped abroad for further processing. This not only led to the shortage of natural plant spices in China market, but also seriously wasted valuable resources in China. In recent years, Switzerland, the United States, Germany, Japan and South Korea and other countries have been very active in the application research of natural spices, mainly inclined to the functional research of natural spices; Such as immunity, sedation of nervous system, anticancer, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial. There are many studies on the extraction of natural spices in China. Natural spices have a history of thousands of years abroad. In 3500 BC, the tomb of the Egyptian emperor Yanis was excavated in 1987, and it was found that the paste in the exquisite ointment jar still had fragrance, which seemed to be resin or balsam. You can see it in the British Museum or the Cairo Museum in Egypt. Monks may be the main collectors, manufacturers and users of spices. In BC 1350, when Egyptians took a bath, they used sesame oil or sesame oil, which was considered to be beneficial to the skin. At that time, thyme, oregano, myrrh, frankincense, sesame oil, almond oil and olive oil were probably used as media. Musk was also used very early, about 500 BC. After Egyptian culture spread to Greece and Rome in the 7th century A.D., spices became valuable things, that is, the hobby of the aristocratic class. In order to seek bananas and spices from all over the world, it promoted ocean navigation, promoted the discovery of the new continent, and made great contributions to the history of human transportation. Chapter 30 of Exodus records: "Please take spices, namely storax, myrrh, Liquidambar formosana and pure frankincense. All kinds of spices must have the same weight, and then make incense according to the technology of making spices ... "The spices mentioned in this paper are all made of natural substances such as resin, and some of them are still in use in 2 1 century. In the same chapter, there are also records about making sesame oil. The raw materials used are liquid myrrh, cinnamon, cassia twig and olive oil. The demand for spices is increasing, and it is inconvenient to transport grass roots and bark, and flowers can't be supplied all the year round. Therefore, in the Middle Ages, Arabs began to run the spice industry and extracted oil from flowers by distillation. The more famous ones are rose oil and rose water. After the Middle Ages, there was trade between Asia and Europe, and spices were one of the important items. Spices from China were also transported to the west along the Silk Road. The oldest perfume "Hungarian water" came out in 1370, and it was also the first attempt to extract aromatic substances with ethanol. At first, it may be distilled from only one kind of rosemary, and then it contains lavender and oregano. The fragrance blending at this time is a great progress compared with the original use of pure natural perfume plants. There are spices, floral, fruity, woody and other essential oils and ointments for perfumers, and the fragrance or rhyme is becoming more and more complicated. 1670, Mary Shedumont was created as "La Poudre a la Marechale", which was famous for two centuries. This is also considered as a model of a new flavor formula. In the seventeenth century, it was found that not only natural plant essential oils were used for flavoring, but also natural animal spices were used. From 65438 to 0708, Charles Lily, a perfumer in Rendun, made a fragrant snuff, which contained the comprehensive aroma of "dragon saliva, orange blossom, musk, civet cat and violet". 1708, the famous Eau de cologne (also known as cologne) came out. Its original purpose was to remove toxins and kill bacteria, but it was soon widely used as washing water because of its interesting and harmonious citrus and herbal fragrance. This fragrance is very popular, and the herbal fragrance is popular all over the world. It is still very popular and has been greatly improved and developed. This is indeed a very successful fragrance creation. Before the eighteenth century, all perfume manufacturers could get were natural animal and plant spices provided by nature. Although the prepared perfume and essence are better than the original blending, they have certain limitations, so they are called "natural" spice blending. After entering the19th century, with the rapid development of organic chemistry and synthetic perfume industry, many new spices have come out one after another, and the imagination of perfumers has become more and more rich, and perfumers have gradually changed from naturalism to realism, impressionism to expressionism, expressionism and realism. It is still developing and needs people to explore and innovate constantly. The earliest synthetic perfume was 1834, and nitrobenzene was artificially synthesized. It was soon discovered that the main component of wintergreen oil was methyl salicylate, and the component of bitter almond oil was benzaldehyde. These spices were all synthesized by chemical methods. Coumarin of hay was synthesized in 1868, and ionone of violet was synthesized in 1893. These compounds enter the market as important synthetic spices. Modern perfume began to enter the market in the second half of the19th century, after the perfume company was established in the south of France. However, perfume was an expensive luxury at that time, and only upper-class women would use it when socializing. The perfume company has been supported and protected by the court. Synthetic spice industry, natural spice industry, namely essential oil industry, blended spice industry and edible spice industry are collectively called spice industry. The essential oil industry mainly deals with essential oils extracted from plants. Oil recovery methods include steam distillation, squeezing, extraction and supercritical extraction. Most essential oils are directly used as raw materials of spices without treatment, but sometimes the main components in essential oils are separated and used, and some are mainly used as raw materials for synthesizing spices. With the increasing consumption of synthetic spices, a large number of cheap and guaranteed raw materials are needed. The raw materials used in the synthetic perfume industry are mainly citronella oil and turpentine in natural essential oils, and acetylene, acetone and isoprene in chemical products. The development of new synthetic spices has also made continuous progress. Mainly by oxidation, reduction, condensation, rearrangement, decomposition, esterification and other chemical reactions. When refining spices, it is very important not only to improve the purity, but also to remove odorous trace substances. The perfume used in cosmetics is not a single essential oil or synthetic perfume, but a mixed perfume made according to the target fragrance type, ranging from several kinds to hundreds. This industry is called seasoning. Just like painting, it is an artistic creation to modulate the fragrance that meets the purpose, so people who undertake this kind of work need artistic creativity and artistic appeal. The person who develops the perfume formula is called the perfumer. The cultivation of perfumers requires years of hard work and training, and accumulated considerable experience to be competent for this kind of work. China has a long history of natural spices, which can be traced back to the Shennong era 5,000 years ago. Herbs are collected as medical supplies to resist epidemics and avoid contamination. At that time, human beings paid great attention to the fragrance emitted by plants. When they smell the fragrance of flowers in full bloom, they feel both beauty and pleasure. Offering flowers, fruits, resins and other aromatic substances to God is full of fragrance, reaching a good religious realm. Therefore, in ancient times, these aromatic substances were used for worship, sacrifice, physical and mental cleansing and funeral, and later gradually used for diet, decoration and beauty. There were records of powder rouge in Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties. Zhang wrote "burning lead and tin as powder", and China's ancient and modern notes also mentioned that "rouge begins with dust". Jiu Yun said, "Since the third generation, lead has been powder, Qin Mugong female jade has been the capacity, and small stones have been painted with mercury as powder, also known as non-Yun Dan, and finally rose with the flute music. After the Spring and Autumn Period, Gong powder rouge was also used by folk women. It is amazing to describe the huge consumption of cosmetics by maids in Epang Palace Fu. " Qi Min Yao Ji recorded the methods of making rouge, flour, blue cream and grinding cream. Species classification Animal spices are relatively precious natural spices. In the process of fragrance blending, it not only plays the role of coordination and fragrance enhancement, but also has the role of long-term fragrance fixation (see fragrance blending). There are mainly four kinds of musk, civet cat, castoreum and Long Xianxiang. Usually tincture is made of ethanol, which is used after storage and ripening. Except for the pathological products produced by Long Xianxiang for undigested food in the intestines and stomach of sperm whales, the other three are secretions that induce the secretion of glands of the opposite sex. Animal spices are too rich in fragrance before dilution, but they look fishy and coquettish, and can play a unique fragrance-imparting effect after dilution. Plant spices Most natural spices belong to plant spices. With the flowers, fruits, leaves, branches, barks, roots or underground stems, seeds and other organs and resin secretions of aromatic plants as raw materials, various perfume products can be made. All over the world, especially in tropical and subtropical regions, there are various aromatic plants planted and grown, such as Indian sandalwood, Bulgarian rose, China mint and star anise, Sri Lankan cinnamon and French lavender. Although there are many plants containing essential oils, there are about 200 kinds commonly used. There are turpentine, peppermint oil, citronella oil, citrus oil and eucalyptus oil with large output. Natural plant materials, such as dried rose, star anise, cinnamon and laurel leaves, can be directly used as flavoring materials or seasonings after collection, sorting, screening and proper treatment, such as soaking in hot water for a short time, drying and crushing. But most of them are made into essential oils. Therefore, essential oil is the representative of plant spices. In addition, there are extracts, purified oil, aromatic resin, oleoresin and tincture. ① Essential oil: the most commonly used form in natural perfume products. It is usually prepared by steam distillation, and a few methods are cold pressing and cold grinding. It is a transparent, clear, colorless to brown oily liquid with volatile characteristics, so it is also called volatile oil. Flammable, heat sensitive, generally insoluble or slightly soluble in water, soluble in organic solvents. The specific gravity of most essential oils is less than that of water. Oxygen-containing compounds in essential oils are often the main flavor components. Because terpenoids in essential oil are easy to be oxidized and deteriorated, it is called terpene-free essential oil after removing terpenoids. The product obtained by concentrating the effective components in essential oil is called concentrated oil, such as twice concentrated sweet orange oil. Deterpenoid essential oil has good water solubility and is an important raw material for preparing water-soluble essence. The main essential oils are rose oil, geranium oil, lavender oil, sandalwood oil and mint oil. ② Extract: prepared by solvent extraction. A viscous paste-like liquid or semi-solid, with characteristic aroma and sometimes crystal precipitation. The composition of the extract is often more complete than that of the essential oil, but it contains a considerable amount of plant wax and pigment, and its solubility in ethanol is small and its color is dark, so its use is limited to some extent. In this way, it can be made into clean oil or decolored extract. Commonly used are extracts such as jasmine and osmanthus. (3) Clear oil: a product made by extracting the extract with pure ethanol at low temperature and then freezing to remove wax. Can be directly used for preparing various high-grade perfumes. Commonly used are tuberose, jasmine and other pure essential oils. (4) Aromatic resin: using ethanol as solvent to extract the dried products of some aromatic plant organs, including exudates such as balsam, gum and resin and animal secretions, to obtain concentrated products of aromatic substances. Fragrant resin is mostly viscous liquid, sometimes semi-solid, such as oak moss resin. ⑤ Oily resin: Spices and spices are extracted with edible volatile solvents, and made into viscous liquid and semi-solid, with fragrance and taste. Most of them are used as food flavors, such as ginger oleoresin. ⑥ Tincture: Natural aromatic substances are used as raw materials, extracted with pure ethanol with a certain concentration, and then the extracted liquid is properly recovered to make products, such as musk tincture, grass tincture, jujube tincture, etc. Planting production Planting cultivation Because the collection of wild plants is restricted by season, climate and other factors, the harvested yield is limited and the production is unstable; Moreover, most of the animals and plants that produce precious spices (agarwood, sandalwood and musk) have been over-harvested, and have become endangered species by 2 1 century, so most of the natural raw materials are mainly produced by artificial cultivation. To ensure the quality of artificially planted spices, we need to pay attention to many factors. The first is the variety factor: the same plant is often divided into different subspecies, and the characters of each subspecies are often very different. Natural environment of water and soil: natural factors such as water, temperature, light, soil, air and surrounding plant communities in the plant growing area, namely "water and soil" and "geomantic omen", will directly affect the quality of plants. Maturity cycle: The length of time from cultivation to picking is a very important factor. For some spices, the longer the incubation time, the higher the quality. For example, the price of "three-year fragrance" of agarwood is almost three times that of "one-year fragrance". Lavender ripens in the third year or so after planting, and its oil quality is the best. After this stage, its quality will also decline. Training mode: In this respect, training mode and experience are important factors, but what is more important is the degree of industrial pollution. Chemical fertilizers, chemical pesticides and air pollution will directly reduce the quality of spices. In some developing countries, chemical fertilizers are even more expensive than natural fertilizers, so they are rarely used, which makes them produce better spices. Location: Different parts of plants, such as roots, stems, branches, leaves, flowers, fruits, etc., have different contents of aromatic components, such as sandalwood. The closer to the roots and tree cores, the higher the oil content. Timing: When the same plant is picked in different weather, different time and different growth stages, its aromatic components will be different. From the perspective of traditional Chinese medicine, this is a very important factor, which not only affects the medicinal properties of spices, but even changes the medicinal properties of spices. Selection of raw materials All plants with strange fragrance can extract aromatic oil. According to incomplete statistics, there are more than 200 kinds of plant aromatic oils produced in China. The most important are star anise oil, clove oil, cinnamon oil, laurel oil, vanilla oil, lemon oil and Commelina oil. In order to make the plant raw materials meet the processing requirements, the extraction method is called pretreatment before processing, such as screening and grading, storage and aging, fermentation, soaking, drying or crushing. Such as the aging of iris before distillation, the soaking of roses in clear water or salt water, etc. There are four common extraction methods. ① Steam distillation method: it is suitable for raw materials whose aroma components will not change significantly due to steam heating. This method is simple to implement, so it is widely used. Based on the volatility of essential oil, although its boiling point is mostly at 150 ~ 300℃, it can be distilled at a temperature lower than 100℃ by introducing steam. Before distillation, the raw materials should be properly dried and crushed, and evenly placed in a steamer with a sieve plate. Steam is introduced from below the sieve plate, and the rising steam passes through the material layer evenly. Essential oil escapes from plant tissues through water infiltration, rises with steam, enters the oil-water separator through gooseneck and condenser above the distiller, and finally separates the essential oil. (2) Extraction method: For raw materials whose aroma components are easily deteriorated by heating, or some aroma components are dissolved in water, it is not suitable to use steam extraction raw materials, especially some flower raw materials, which have low essential oil content and can only be extracted at a temperature lower than steam distillation, so the extraction method should be adopted. The most commonly used method is volatile solvent extraction. The solvent used is petroleum ether, benzene, dichloroethane or mixed solvent. The aroma of the prepared extract is still different from that of the original perfume plants, but it can still meet the requirements of fragrance blending. Such as roses, jasmine, white orchids, violets, broom, daffodils and carnations, are all processed in this way. The process is as follows: flowers and solvents are put into a static or rotating extractor, usually at room temperature. Clarifying and filtering the separated extract, then distilling at a lower temperature to recover the solvent, and finally removing the solvent to obtain an extract, or extracting with ethanol to remove waxy substances to obtain clean oil. If the extraction temperature of general volatile solvents affects the heat-sensitive aroma components, liquefied propane, butane or carbon dioxide are used as solvents to extract in special pressure-resistant equipment. When liquefied carbon dioxide is used as solvent, supercritical extraction can also be used, which is very suitable for the processing and extraction of food spices, without heating at a lower temperature, and the aroma of the product is closer to natural raw materials without solvent residue. However, due to the large investment in equipment and high technical requirements, it is not widely used in industry. ③ Cold pressing and cold grinding: a method of obtaining essential oil from citrus fruits or peels. The oil capsule can be broken or punctured by pressing and grinding at room temperature, so that the essential oil can flow out. The essential oil released from the oil bag flows out together with the broken pericarp tissue, cell debris and cell fluid spray water, and then the oil, water and debris are separated and clarified to obtain the product. The implementation method includes: squeezing the peel by hand, and absorbing and recovering the outflow essential oil with sponge; Manual filing and pressing method, using a copper file with spikes to press, and manually filing and pressing essential oil into a funnel for recovery; Mechanical extrusion, which uses various kinds of file extrusion or extruders designed according to the principle of file extrusion, such as roller extruder and screw extruder; Mechanical grinding, grinding oil from the outside of the whole fruit. ④ Adsorption method: The earliest adsorption method is cold adsorption method. Put the flowers that are still alive after picking, such as jasmine and tuberose, on the flower stand coated with refined oil, then fold the flower stand and put it in a low greenhouse. After a period of time, the flowers should be replaced, and after repeated replacement, the aroma components adsorbed by the oil will reach saturation. Then extract with ethanol, and the product is called balsam oil. In addition, based on the principle of activated carbon adsorption, the above-mentioned kinds of flowers are picked and placed in an adsorption room with an activated carbon bed at the top, and pure air with a certain temperature and flow rate is introduced, and the air brings the head fragrance components released by the flowers into the activated carbon bed through the flower bed for adsorption. After a period of time, the saturated activated carbon is desorbed with solvent to make essential oil. Recently, a variety of new porous polymer adsorbents were developed, and the adsorption technology was further developed. Liquefied carbon dioxide was developed as desorption solvent, which significantly improved the quality and yield of essential oil. In order to ensure the safety of use, many countries have toxicological regulations or regulations on various spices. For example, the American Spice Research Institute and the European International Daily Spice Association have specially formulated the Regulations on the Administration of Daily Chemicals and Spices. The American Association of Seasonings and Extracts Manufacturers and the European Council have made a rigorous assessment of the safety of edible spices, and announced the spices that are generally considered safe and their dosage. The Spice Sub-committee of China National Food Additive Standardization Technical Committee is responsible for reviewing the safety regulations in this respect. Application fields Spices and fragrances are widely used in environmental hygiene products, such as soap, detergent, various cosmetics (cold cream, vanishing cream, hair cream, hair wax, shampoo, toilet water and perfume), skin care and beauty products, toothpaste, air cleaner and fungicide, candy, biscuits, beverages, cigarettes, wine, soybean milk, dairy products, vegetable protein foods, medicines, paper, plastics and leather. Large-scale perfume companies include American International Flavor and Essence Company, Swiss Chihuaton Company, Haarman-Laimei Company of the Federal Republic of Germany, Dutch Nalden International Company, Japanese Gaosha Spice Industry Company, etc. The International Essential Oil Conference is an international professional conference, and its activities involve agriculture and processing of spice plants, analysis and utilization of essential oil components, synthesis and trade of spices and so on. Generally held once every three years. From 65438 to 0983, representatives of China attended the ninth session held in Singapore for the first time.