GM/㎡=G(gm)÷S(㎡)
Width = cut ÷WPI
OZ/YD = width × ×GM/㎡×0.00082
Maximum repetition rate of feed = feeder ÷CPI
GM/㎡=(CPI×wpi×50C)÷S/ 1×0.0 18367
S/ 1 = 840 yards1lb = 0.00059× length (mm)/gram (g)
[attention]
gram weight
S region
L length
GM/㎡-the square meter gram weight of fabric.
Number of fabric loops in CPI- 1 inch range.
Vertical number of rows in the range of wpi- 1 inch.
50C——50 Total length of 50 coils in 50 coils (unit: mm)
S/ 1- Yarn Count (English)
Oz/yard-The weight per yard of fabric, in ounces.
Number of needles-the total number of needles in the machine.
Total number of feeder-machine paths (number of circulating systems)
Second, the "theoretical derivation"
1, yarn count is used to describe the density (diameter or fineness) of yarn, that is, the ratio of weight to length. The yarn count systems we usually use are English (S/ 1), metric (Nm) and denier (d), and their relationships are as follows:
S/ 1 = 0.59 1 nm
S/ 1=53 19D
Such as: 150D≈35.46S/ 1.
48 nm ≈28.4 seconds/1
Generally speaking, the English branch is used for cotton yarn (such as cotton, cotton/wool, cotton/poly, cotton/thread); Male count is used for wool yarn (such as 100% wool, acrylic fiber/wool, acrylic fiber); Denier is used for filaments (such as filament poly, filament nylon, CYARL, silk, LUREX).
According to Yingzhi's definition, S/ 1=840YD÷LB, we can get the formula S/ 1=0.00059×L(mm)÷G(gm) to measure the yarn count of customers.
For example, if we measure that the total weight of 12 cotton yarns with the length of 172MM is 0.062gm, then we can calculate the yarn count as12×172× 0.00059 ÷ 0.062 =/kloc-.
2.GM/ ㎡ is the total weight of one square meter of fabric, and it is also the sum of the weight of each loop woven into this fabric. Therefore, if we know the number of loops and the weight of each loop of a square meter fabric, we can calculate the gram weight of the square meter fabric, that is, the total number of loops × the unit loop weight. Now that we know the CPI and WPI of the fabric, we can calculate the total number of loops per square meter, that is, CPI×WPI×39.37×39.37. Similarly, according to the definition of yarn count and unit coil length, or calculate the weight of each coil, that is:
Line length/yarn count = (50c ÷ 50000) × (453.6 ÷ s/1840 ÷ 0.9114).
So the square meter gram weight is:
CPI×wpi×39.37×39.37×50c÷50000×453.6÷S/ 1÷840÷0.9 1 14× 1.0 18367
For example, 40s/ 1× 2 cotton block dyed with pure color sweatshirt 20g× 30 "9.75oz/56-58" 205gm/m2, CPI=45, WPI=3 1, 50C= 160MM. According to the above formula, its gram weight is: 45× 3/kloc-0 /×160 ÷ 40× 2× 0.018367 = 204.975 (g/m2). In the standard, because the parameters used in the formula are artificially determined, there will be a corresponding deviation between the calculated weight and the standard weight, generally within 5%.
3. Knitted fabrics form a vertical row by each needle, so the total number of needles in the machine divided by the fabric WPI is the width of the fabric.
4. Each module can be woven in a circle on the machine to form a row, so the module of the machine divided by CPI is the biggest feeding repetition.
Three. [Formula application example]
1, influence on sample analysis:
1) If there are enough customer samples (1 width, at least 1 yard or more), then we can directly weigh its code weight and gram weight, measure its width, calculate CPI and WPI, measure the yarn count and count the total number of needles, from which we can know the gauge for producing this fabric. Other related parameters can also be tested, such as fabric shrinkage, pilling, wet friction and so on.
2) If the customer's sample is not wide enough, but a big circle or a small circle can be carved, then we can weigh the grams of the big circle or the small circle, measure CPI and WPI, and calculate the producible width according to the formula: width = number of cuts ÷ WPI; According to the formula: OZ/YD=WIDTH×GM/㎡×0.00082, the corresponding code weight is calculated. But we can't know the specifications of the original fabric model.
For example, a customer's sample is 40s/ 1 cotton block dyed double-sided (ribbed m/c), and we measured its gram weight as 2 19GM/㎡, WPI=37.5 and CPI=88. If we use18g34 "(1920). Its width is 1920÷37.5=5 1.2 ",estimated to be 50-52", and its code weight is 52× 219× 0.00082 = 9.34 (oz/yd).
3) If the sample is too small to carve a big circle or a small circle for weighing, we can only weigh the whole cloth, measure its area and calculate the gram weight according to the formula GM/㎡= weight (G)÷ area (s). We can calculate the gate width and code weight in the same way as in 2), but the measured data is very inaccurate.
For example, the sample sent by the customer is 2cm×2cm, the gram weight is 0.08g, and the gram weight per square meter is 0.08gm÷0.02m÷0.05m=200gm/㎡.
note:
Among them, 2) and 3) require good shrinkage in formal production, because the shrinkage rate of samples cannot be measured, and the width and weight of fabrics actually produced may be quite different from the analysis results.
2. Width estimation:
A: Direct calculation method:
Fabric width = total number of needles of the producible machine ÷WPI
For example: 20s/1ctns/kjerseypdsolid18g× 30 "wpi = 29.
Looking up the machine table, we can see that the total number of stitches in 18G×30 "is 1680, and we can calculate the width of the cloth on it:
Width = 1680÷29=58 inches. So the width is 56-58 ".
This method is mainly used for fabric sample analysis.
Note: Here is the total number of needles that the machine can produce. For example, coarse count yarn cannot use a machine with too fine a machine number, and fine count yarn cannot use a machine with too thick a machine number. At the same time, the fabric type should be consistent with the model. For example:
Rib solid/feed M/C:
15G×34, 1596×2 cutting
18G×34, 1592×2 cutting
14G×34， 14 16×2 CTU
Interlocking solids/feed:
18G×30, 1728×2 cutting
22G×30 30,2088× 2 cutting
24G×30, 2304×2 cutting
28G×30，2664×2 CITS
Automatic interlock:
18G×30, 1680×2 cutting
22G×30 30,2064× 2 cutting
24G×30/22G×30, 2256×2 cutting
24g×332496×2 cutting
B: Comparative calculation method (variation gauge)
If the width and weight of the fabric are known, the following formula can be used to calculate the remaining width that can be produced without changing the weight and shrinkage:
Production width = total number of needles of producible machines ÷ total number of needles of existing machines × existing width.
For example, 20s/ 1ctns/k jersey PD solid18g× 30 "181gm56-58" is known. If a machine is used, what is the width?
Look-up table shows that the total number of stitches in 18G×30 "is 1680, and the total number of stitches in 20G×30" is 1860. According to the formula, the width is =1860/1680×.
Remarks: The precautions are the same as those in Method A. ..
3. Calculation of maximum repeated feed times.
Its basic calculation formula is: maximum feed repetition (B/W)= producible machine modulus ÷CPI.
The key point here is to find out the modulus of the production machine. Such as rib machine 70F, interlock machine 84F and common machine 96F. Refer to the actual models of each company for detailed models.
For example:
1)20S/ 1 cotton DK 1× 1 rib feed 259gm/㎡15g× 34 "64-66"14.0oz/ydcpi = 36.
2) interlocking feed of 32s/1cotton YD is 223gm/㎡18g× 30 "50-52" CPI = 75. Because the modulus of cotton wool machine is 84F, the maximum repeated feed of the above fabrics is: modulus ÷ CPI = 84 ÷ 75 =/.
3)20S/ 1 cotton YD S/K pique feed 20g× 30 "14.0oz/yd80-82" 208gm/㎡ CPI = 64. Because the modulus of the common machine is 96F, the maximum number of repetitions of feeding the above fabrics is: modulus ÷ CPI ÷.