"Radish" is a general term for Nanjing people. Before I knew nothing about Nanjing, I knew that Nanjing people had such a nickname. This nickname gave me an initial feeling, which was a bit strange and unpredictable: was it praising Nanjing people's kindness and massiness, or mocking Nanjing people's stupidity and carelessness? I can't say clearly. According to Cai's notes, he slept in this village during the former Nanjing. There are so-called "Sanduo" in Sanduo, that is, there are many donkeys, many Bigfoot immortals and many Danding Hualing Terraces. "Sanduo" does not include many radishes. The radish in Nanjing can be said to be a must, huge, sweet and solid. It is often mentioned in the literature about Nanjing. For example, Zhang Tongzhi's "White Door Secret Recipe" said: The radish produced by Banqiao Radish Banqiao has bright red skin, firm meat and sweet taste, which is no different from those who are dishonest elsewhere. Whether cooking or making soup, it is perishable and tastes as sweet as chestnuts. Raw meat, shredded, mixed with salt for a while, drained and mixed with sesame oil, sugar and vinegar. Or add jellyfish silk, it tastes good, and it can also resolve phlegm and clear the stomach. In addition, Gong Naibao's Yecheng Recipe says: Radish is produced in my hometown, and its skin is bright red. In early winter, it is huge and solid, weighing 782, tender and sweet, far better than yam. In the next spring, the autumn pear was crushed, mixed with sweet and sour, and crisp. It can be seen that Nanjing people are proud of locally produced radishes. Nanjing people love to eat radishes, and they don't deny it. A typical example is Ye Lingfeng, a famous modern writer, who is from Nanjing and has written many articles about Nanjing radish. He has an essay entitled "Nostalgia at the End of the Year", and he never forgets the radish in his hometown, saying, "There are many radishes in his hometown, and' stewed duck soup with radish' is the most common home-cooked dish." Another literary essay, Three Books of Montaigne, suddenly collapsed and wrote about radishes, saying, "According to my experience, Cantonese people don't like radishes very much, at least not raw. On the contrary, I like it cooked, but I prefer it raw. " In an essay on "Vegetables and Cold Salad", he even wrote in an expert tone: "Cold radish should be cut into filaments, with sweet and sour sauce or soy sauce and sesame oil. However, carrots should be round and crisp. The so-called' roasted radish' in Guangdong is only suitable for soup, not for cold salad. " These, perhaps, can be regarded as the common view of Nanjing people on radish. The problem is that "Nanjing radish" does not refer to the vegetable radish, but refers to Nanjing people. What kind of human code is contained here? In a sense, this probably refers to the simplicity of Nanjing people; But in another sense, it may also refer to the Mu Na and stupidity of Nanjing people. According to some people's understanding, the radish produced in Nanjing is described as "huge and solid, weighing seven or eight pounds", which means "stupid and one thing". It is said that there is a folklore in Nanjing. In the past, landlords charged tenants rent and laughed at them as "big radishes" growing in the fields. When this story spread, Nanjing people got this nickname. This nickname, if understood from the front, is a compliment. Gu Jieyuan, an Amin scholar, said in Hakka Dialect: "The customs in the south are the most mellow." "Zheng Dejiang Ningzhi" said: "(Jinling) people are heavy and thick, but few are clever." It is said that Nanjing people have a simple side since ancient times. However, if this honesty goes too far, you will be self-righteous and opinionated, and there are many such stories in history. For example, there is a story of Nanjing people in Volume 7 of Wang Shizhen's Notes on Xiangzu in the early Qing Dynasty, which vividly shows the characteristics of Nanjing people: there is Jia Hu in Jiangning, and he wants to buy it when he meets people. Where is the number? The owner has high value and hasn't sold it yet. One day, I washed and ground it, hoping to raise its price. Tomorrow, Jia Hulai exclaimed, "It's a treasure, it's useless! There are twelve holes in the stone pillar, and at twelve o'clock, there are red dragonflies on them. After the net is built, the net in front disappears, which is a natural sundial. " What's the use now that it's worn out? "Go regardless. This famous story is also found in the poem "Listening to the Rain and Chatting" written by Tong Xi Man. It can be seen that Nanjing people seem smart but actually stupid. It is said that in modern times, "Nanjing Radish" and "Shanghai A Mu Forest" have similar meanings. Shanghainese often regard Nanjing people as "fools" and "idiots" and laugh at them as "Nanjing radish". So that some Nanjing people don't want to say "Nanjing" when they declare their place of origin, but "Jiangning" for fear that others will laugh at them as "Nanjing Radish". Although Nanjing was the ancient capital of the Six Dynasties, it lagged behind Shanghai in modern times. So Nanjing people look shorter than Shanghai people. In fact, not only Shanghainese openly call Nanjing people "big radish", but people in other places also openly call Nanjing people "big radish" to show their contempt. Zhu Ziqing said in "I am from Yangzhou" that Yangzhou people call them "Lickitung" besides Nanjing people's "big radish" because their accent is too ugly. By the way, there are many people who dare not compliment Nanjing dialect. For example, Zhang Henshui wrote in Ghost World: "This morning, I had breakfast in a restaurant. When I met her, she smiled and nodded to me and invited me to join. "I can't hear Nanjing dialect, but it comes out of her mouth like a bird chirping." Chen also said in A Farewell to the World: "This inspector Liu is from Nanjing and speaks Nanjing dialect. This language is not very good now except for the old Nanjing people in the south of the city. At that time, we all thought that Liu Ziyun was a "Lickitung" and had a bad impression. " I have read the book "Beijing Dialect" written by Yao Ying during the Republic of China, which is devoted to anecdotes about Nanjing. Among them, there is a passage describing an old lady in Nanjing, which vividly shows the taste of Nanjing dialect: "You are a dead girl who harms people!" Last time you were a dead girl, you really did a lot of harm. I don't know anything about what to choose "pot cover" (national generation) and "bowl cover" Who knows to choose Zhang San and Li Si? Now there is a new trick, and it is necessary to choose "donkey tail" (legislator). What the hell! " If you use the old Nanjing words to say this one-liners, people will laugh. In the book "Beijing Dialect", the author also wrote that a Nanjing native was at a loss when he saw the police, just waiting for training, and called him "a rustic Nanjing native". Is this a visual interpretation of Nanjing Radish? In fact, Nanjing people's "reality" and their "timidity" are opposites and complementary. An aggressive and condescending Nanjing person may instantly become a pool of mud and a bear. I saw it with my own eyes. Chen Kangqi of A Qing Dynasty recorded in Volume I of "The First Pen of Moon Hee before Lang Dynasty" that during the Xianfeng period, the Taiping Army marched from Wuchang to Nanjing, and it was sweeping all the way. And "Jinling is surrounded by dragons and tigers. In less than half a year, it was photographed by Yifengmen Mine. The thief was supposed to be a fake capital, and he couldn't stop it for more than ten years. Liuhe county, Jiangsu province, a secluded city by the river, is alone among thieves, fighting martial law in hundreds of battles and repeatedly destroying opera bandits. Therefore, there are rumors that "paper paste Nanjing City, iron casting Liuhe County". Liuhe county is a small county, which is now under the jurisdiction of Nanjing. The small Liuhe County is actually "cast of iron", but the open Nanjing City is "papery". Of course, there are various reasons why we can't study them in detail, but the difference of human nature cannot but be one of many reasons. There have always been two sayings about Nanjing people: "smoke water in the Six Dynasties" and "Nanjing radish". The former means a state of leisure, and the wind in the forest is peaceful and contented, and does not compete with the world. The latter is a completely different situation. Few people talk about these two different natures of Nanjing people together. A few years ago, Zhejiang People's Publishing House published Ye's book Nanjing People, including an article called Six Dynasties People and Nanjing Radish. This seems to be the first time to talk about the two personalities of Nanjing people in an article, trying to find out what is the connection between them. There is a funny anecdote in the article, which needs to be relayed first: after the Anti-Japanese War, Nanjing recruited city flowers, and some people mentioned plum blossoms, some people mentioned begonia, and some people mentioned cherry blossoms, each holding its own opinion and unable to agree. Suddenly it was suggested that the representative of Nanjing was not a flower, but a "big radish"! I don't know what the result will be, but I think there is probably no result. The view of "Nanjing Radish" in the book is this: Many people can't help shaking their heads when talking about the stupidity of Nanjing people, and they call Nanjing a radish. Nanjing radish doesn't matter whether it is praised or criticized. It is a documentary. Radish is the best way to describe Nanjing people. People in Nanjing will never be smart. No one can tell where this allusion came from. Although it has been verified that there are indeed big radishes in Nanjing in history, from the perspective of eating, what Nanjing people like to eat, no matter in the past or now, is very small radishes. The author thinks that "Nanjing radish" is a mockery of Nanjing people. Because the results of the public opinion survey conducted in Nanjing show that most people think that "Nanjing radish" means "simplicity", "enthusiasm" and "conservatism". In other words, "Nanjing radish" means "sincerity". In fact, that is to say, most people think that "Nanjing radish" is a title that praises more and belittles less. The author further pointed out: "Nanjing radish, in a sense, is a remnant of the spirit of the Six Dynasties, that is, the so-called" diners and bartenders have smoke and water from the Six Dynasties. " "I am rambling and don't spend time doing things. This kind of leisure is left by my ancestors. " He thinks that "Nanjing Radish" is a bit slow in many things: it can't be said that Nanjing people are indifferent to money, and no one will hold a grudge against money. It can only be said that Nanjing is a city that is unlikely to seize opportunities. In this city, there are more people who are not very good at seizing opportunities. I hope Nanjing people don't get angry when they see this. However, if they get angry so easily, they are not "big radishes". In fact, in addition to "big radish", Nanjing people also have a name called "kidnapper". For example, Chen Sen, a scholar from the DPRK, said in the fifty-ninth chapter of "A Mirror in a Flower": "This place in Nanjing is shared by people from eighteen provinces, and there is a kind of person whose business is kidnapping, which is called" abduction. " Back to the 40th edition of Mu Zhenshan's "Treasure Mirror of Brothel", he said, "Nanjing people are much worse, obsessed with cunning and scheming. There is a saying in the world called "Nanjing Kidnapper". "Wu Jichang's" Guest Window Gossip "wrote in Volume 6: Jinling gangsters, some of them sell young girls in all directions. Choose a handsome man, condition his skin, decorate his clothes and shoes, and delay the teacher's teaching, such as painting, calligraphy, piano, chess, flute and orchestra. Melons, on the other hand, are sold to wealthy businessmen as concubines at high prices in the official residence and even enter brothels. The appearance of Kidnapper in Nanjing is inseparable from the city's mixed features. Compared with Nanjing Radish, Nanjing Kidnapper obviously lacks universality. (Wei Minghua's "Gone with the Times" fragment) References:
/city/east China/Nanjing/eat/b163308/d 21736574.htm.