1, Crown scarf
Crown and hat as a whole. Such as crowns, crowns, etc. All belong to the crown. Towels, cloth tied to the head. Like a towel.
The establishment of the crown system was realized in the Han Dynasty. In ancient times, the crown of Huaxia nationality was mainly subordinate to the ritual system, and men had to perform the crown ceremony when they were adults. The crown of the Han dynasty mainly belongs to the clothing system, which is the expression of identity and official position. People with low status can only wear hats, not crowns. A crown is a hair cover added to a bun and does not cover the whole head. E is more like a hat. The crown has nothing to do with the crown, but it is said that when Wang Mang arrived, he was wearing a crown because his head was bald. Later, this kind of wearing became common. Crown and crown can't be matched casually. The immortal crown worn by civil servants should match the shape of the roof, and the military officer's crown worn by military officers should match the flat top. In addition, samurai and law enforcement officers also wear crowns.
Although the beams on the crown of Jin Xian have played a certain role in distinguishing the advantages and disadvantages, the number of beams does not exceed three, and the classification is relatively rough.
Corona is a ceremonial crown worn by ancient emperors and courtiers. According to Shi Ben, it originated from the Yellow Emperor. Book of rites in Han Dynasty: "Zhou Mian is made of wood, with a width of eight inches (about 19 cm) and a length of one foot and six inches (about 39 cm). The upper part is mysterious, the lower part is smoky, and there are two sides. " It has been used for several generations, but it has changed slightly. In the Northern and Southern Dynasties, the crown was placed on the celestial crown. The coronation system was abolished in the Ming Dynasty, and only the emperor kept the coronation, so coronation became the proper name of the emperor. Corona, black outside and black inside, consists of extension, extension, tassel and spike. Yan, covered with rectangular wooden boards, is round before and after, leaning forward and leaning back, symbolizing the monarch's concern for the people; Fu is the hairpin of horizontal crown hair; Fringe is a silk tapestry with a crown; Ear-filling beads strung on the ear show that the monarch can't trust the slanderers. There are six kinds of crowns, namely, the crown of big robe (worn by the emperor), the crown of robe (worn by the emperor and senior officials), the crown of filial piety (worn by sons and men) and the crown of mysterious costume (worn by Dr. Qing). The first two are twelve, and the last four are nine, seven, five and three respectively.
The more distinctive decoration on the crown is the flower feathers on the top. Different hualing stands for different official positions, such as the crown and back of the Xia emperor. Top three floors, decorated with golden Buddha in front and seven East Beads in the forest in the back; Guo Gongji, the town. Eyes topped with rubies and peacock feathers.
Ai was popular in the Han Dynasty, and its embryonic form began in Qin State during the Warring States Period. At that time, the heads of Qin warriors were decorated with crimson handkerchiefs to show the dignity of rank. Later, it was slightly modified in the forehead, called Yan Xian. In the Han dynasty, the face problem was improved, and the towel covered on the head was connected with the face problem, which became an embarrassment. "Once"? "Zhi Fu Zhi" said: "Wen (BC 179- 157) has a high topic, and in his back ear, he worships his towel as his home, and then collects it, which is taken by all the ministers." Besides what I said above, ordinary people can only wear hats, not crowns. The difference between high and low lies in the different colors of hats. Military officials often wear red clothes to show their courage and strength.
Towels, in addition to the Yi people, evolved from Xianbei hat to Shantou in the Tang Dynasty. Shantou was developed in Song Dynasty and perfected in Ming Dynasty. Emperors and senior officials in the Song Dynasty wore exhibition feet, which stretched out to both sides for several feet. A humble tolerance, servant, etc. Wear more hoes without feet. Bread in the Ming Dynasty was painted with black paint, and its feet were short and wide, so it was called a black hat, and civilians without official positions could not wear it.
2. Take it
Ancient clothes were mainly divided into two types: the traditional clothes and the cassock. Class nature is the most prominent embodiment in legal clothing.
A representative example is the coronation system in the Zhou Dynasty. Yu Shu? In the chapter of Historical Records, it is recorded that "I want to see the image of the ancients, and the sun, the moon and the stars ... are painted with colorful colors on Xiao Tong". Here, five colors are applied to clothes, that is, twelve patterns are applied to coronation clothes through painting and embroidery. According to Yu Shu? Twelve chapters of decorative patterns are recorded in Book of Changes, and the order of decorative patterns is sun, moon, star ⑥, dragon ⑦, mountain ⑧, insect ⑨, fire ⑩, Zong Yi, seaweed, pink rice 1 1, flounder 12, and glutinous rice. Each pattern in Chapter 12 has its meaning and symbolic significance. Chapter 12 patterns are symbolic patterns, and they are the source of patterns chosen for clothing by looking up and looking down on everything in the world, reflecting people's respect and love for nature in the early days. The ruling class regards these patterns as a class division: the emperor's clothing can enjoy twelve chapters of patterns; Princes descend from dragons, scholars take algae fire, and doctors add rice noodles.
Civil servants in the Ming Dynasty set a precedent for civil servants to mend their chests and backs. Civil servants decorate birds, and officers decorate animals. In recognition of the meritorious service of the officials, pythons, flying fish, bullfighting and other clothes were specially presented. Python is a dragon with four claws, flying fish is a python with fins, and bullfighting is to add curved horns to the python's head. Jade belt is for official use, so it's best to use it. Therefore, "embroidered robe and jade belt" became the most prominent costume of the big bureaucrats at this time.
2. Summary
The dress system in ancient China had certain social limitations, mainly manifested in the class differences between slave owners and slaves, the feudal ruling class and civilians, which made the original beautiful things cast a strong class color. But it also promotes the continuous innovation and development of clothing in pattern texture and fabric texture to a certain extent.
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note:
The predecessor of the Han nationality.
(2) In China feudal society, funeral was used to define the range of relatives to show the degree of kinship, that is, the kinship system.
(3) an ancient long-eared hair towel.
④ Bird feathers.
⑤ Animal hair.
⑥ Sun, Moon and Star: Take it as light, like the brilliance of three lights.
⑦ Dragon: Being able to change symbolizes that people should be good at changing.
⑧ Mountain: marked by its town-oriented character, the town of kings is quiet and peaceful.
9 Hua Chong: Taking it as an article (literary talent) means that the king has the virtue of an article.
Attending fire: To tell the truth, the soldiers and civilians are going to die.
1 1 rice flour: white, nourishing, symbolizing the virtue of nourishing.
12 fu: just draw a golden axe, which means you can cut it.
13 fu: the two sides of the painting are opposite, which means that the monarch and the minister can be in harmony, and at the same time, it means that the subjects are taken from evil to good.