The color of natural hair depends on the color, quantity and distribution of pigment particles in the hair cortex. Hair pigment particles are divided into four colors: black, brown, red and yellow. Black hair is caused by a large number of dark brown pigment particles in hair, while white hair is caused by the lack or even absence of pigment particles in hair. The following are my hair stylist's hair dyeing skills for everyone, please refer to them ~
Color theory
A professional hairdresser must know the basic theory of color, the comprehensive method of color and the collocation of hair color and skin color before dyeing hair, so as to design the most perfect hairstyle for customers. Here is the difference between colors.
(1) primary color (primary color)
Any color is a mixture of red, yellow and blue, so red, yellow and blue are the main colors.
(2) Second-class color
Turn an equal amount of red+yellow into orange.
Turn the same amount of blue+yellow into green.
Turn the same amount of red+yellow into purple.
So we call orange, green and purple the second color of color.
(3) Third-class color (harmonious color or complementary color)
Mix equal amounts of first-class color and second-class color to get brown, which is called third-class color or harmonic color.
A professional hairdresser should not only know how to mix colors to create new colors, but also know how to neutralize and adjust colors, as well as chromaticity and hue.
(4) Pigment particles
Hair pigment particles called melanin are closely related to heredity. When the melanin that is not in the hair cream grows to the hair follicle, it begins to appear granular. If you look closely, you will find that the color of the whole hair is not exactly the same. Because the distribution of black, brown, red and yellow pigment particles is different, the hair color is slightly different. The distribution of black and brown pigment particles is usually irregular and the particles are slightly larger. Red and yellow pigment particles are regular and small (and contain iron).
(5) Tone
The warmth and coldness of a color is called hue.
Pigment particles containing red and yellow are called warm tones.
Pigment particles that do not contain red or yellow are called cool tones.
(6) Chromaticity
The depth of a color is called chromaticity.
(7) Porosity of hair
The epidermis of hair is a chain-connected tissue, which protects the cortex from being exposed, and the color of the cortex is revealed through the translucent epidermis. The old method of dyeing hair is to smear the color to be dyed outside the hair epidermis, so it looks unnatural. The new dyeing method is to infiltrate the color to be dyed into the cortex and combine with the original pigment particles in the cortex to form larger pigment particles and stay in the cortex. In order to make the new pigment particles easily penetrate into the cortex, the scale tissue of the epidermis should be softened. Hair that is often dyed, bleached, permed or exposed to the sun is easily damaged and the epidermis is too open. Pay special attention when dyeing your hair, because damaged hair is easy to color and lose its luster.
Types of hair dyes
Modern hair dyes can be divided into the following three types according to their uses and dyeing time:
(1) Temporary hair dye: Hair dye will fade after shampooing 1~2 times.
(2) Semi-permanent hair dye: Hair dye will fade after shampooing for 4-6 times.
(3) Permanent hair dye: The hair dye on the head will never fade unless the hair grows back or is cut off.
Professional hairdressers should fully understand the usage and characteristics of various hair dyes in order to dye their hair successfully. The following is a detailed introduction to the above three conditioners.
(1) temporary hair dye
Temporary hair dye, which only stays in the hair epidermis, does not enter the cortex, and generally fades after shampooing. It is most commonly used to dye white hair. Its dosage form is washing agent, shampoo or powder, wax strip, emulsion or spray.
1, rinse the hair dye
Rinse-type hair dyes are temporarily most suitable for hair dyes that change other colors or lighten hair by a few shades.
Its advantages are:
(1) Generally, women don't like to dye their hair permanently, but only change their hair color occasionally. It is very convenient to use this dosage form.
(2) Easy to clean.
(3) It can increase hair luster.
(4) It can make white hair look natural after dyeing.
Its disadvantages are:
(1) It is easy to stain pillows and clothes.
(2) When the air humidity is too wet, there will be a feeling of sticking to the sofa.
(3) it is not easy to dye evenly.
2, shampoo temporary hair dye
When shampooing, mixing hair dyes will change the color of hair.
3, powder, wax, paste or spray temporary hair dye
4, powder, wax, cream or spray temporary hair dye
(1) powder: powder containing metal.
(2) Wax mold: mostly used for dyeing new hair.
(3) Spray type: mostly gold, silver or color spray.
(2) Semi-permanent hair dye
Semi-permanent hair dyes usually penetrate from epidermis to cortex, but do not combine with hair pigment particles, so the color gradually fades after 4~6 shampoos, which can be divided into two categories.
1. Cover white hair: the hair color is unchanged, only cover white hair.
2, enhance white hair: make white hair more shiny.
Advantages of semi-permanent hair dye:
(1) Go deep into the hair cortex to make the color look natural and more vital.
(2) Because the color penetrates into the cortex, the clothes or pillow towel will not be stained by fading.
(3) The residence time is longer than that of temporary hair dye.
(4) There will be no overlapping lines in each dyeing, so there will be no trouble in dyeing makeup.
(5) The use method is simple.
(6) It can fade in a short time after dyeing.
(7) After dyeing, the hair quality will not be damaged or the luster of the hair will be reduced.
(3) Permanent hair dye
Permanent hair dyes can be divided into three types:
(1) Permeable permanent hair dye (oxidized hair dye).
(2) Metal permanent hair dye.
(3) plant permanent hair dye.
Permanent hair dyes do not fade until new hair grows or is cut off. It can be used to cover white hair or change the chromaticity and tone of hair to make it softer with the face. Now, we will introduce all kinds of permanent hair dyes in detail:
1, osmotic permanent hair dye
Hair dye enters the cortex through epidermis, and after oxidation, it combines with the original pigment particles, which looks more natural. The advantages of this penetrating hair dye are as follows:
Natural color, not easy to fade.
Colors are evenly distributed in the cortex of hair, which looks like natural hair color.
Stop coloring as soon as the color is washed, neither too deep nor too light, and you can color as you like.
2. Metal hair dyes are mainly composed of silver salt, copper, nickel, cobalt, magnesium and iron, and some men still use them today. In the initial stage, they are usually made into slightly acidic alcohol dosage forms, which have a slow effect. It takes about 7~ 10 days to paint slowly and apply it every day when using it. Few colors enter the hair, and most colors form a film outside the hair epidermis, so the hair is dull and the color is not easy to fade after use. Metal permanent hair dye is often used, because the metal remains on the hair, which is deformed by blowing and heating, and it is difficult to curl or color the hair after perm.
3. Plant permanent hair dye
Henna is the oldest plant permanent hair dye, which is still used in a few beauty salons. This hair dye exists in the leaves or roots of henna plants and is usually produced in South Africa, Ireland, Arabia and India. The dried leaves and roots are heated into powder, then processed and put into a tubular container to become orange-red flash hair dye.
Hair dye preparation
When customers go to a beauty salon to dye their hair, they always regard the barber as the most professional. Barbers can give customers the most professional advice and dye the most natural and soft colors. Especially the customers who dye their hair for the first time have great doubts about the choice of color and the effect after dyeing. Before dyeing hair, the hairdresser should discuss the hair organization, color choice and skin color collocation with the customer, and discuss with the customer to choose the color that suits her and is her favorite.
Before you start dyeing your hair, you should complete the following steps:
Choose a color.
Check whether the customer's scalp is damaged.
Skin test.
Hair bundle test.
(1) color selection
When choosing a color, you should pay attention to:
Light is very important in color selection. If you choose a color at night or in a place with insufficient light, it will affect its preparation. The light should be similar to the light in the daytime, so you can choose the right color.
When judging the hair color for customers, the hair should be clean and dry. When the hair is wet, dark color often affects the barber's color selection judgment.
Hair should be gently lifted and carefully observed.
The color of the whole hair is often different shades, and the average hair color can be taken as the standard when choosing the color.
When choosing a color, we should consider the collocation of skin color. The yellow skin should be darker, and ivory or white skin can be of any hue. Women with slightly red skin color are suitable to choose a color with slightly red or without red pigment particles, which can make it softer. Most white-haired women like to dye their original hair color, but skin color is also one of the important factors to consider. You can choose a color that is a few shades lighter than the original hair color, and it will look yellow.
(2) Scalp test
Before dyeing hair, the scalp should be thoroughly examined for redness, heat damage or allergies. If there is the above phenomenon, it is not suitable for dyeing hair.
(3) Hair dyeing test
Whether it is full head dyeing or supplementary dyeing, scalp dyeing test should be done 24 hours before each dyeing to determine whether customers are allergic to dyes.
1. Wash elbows or behind ears to hairline with soap and water, and mix the same amount of hair dye and oxidant.
2. Apply the prepared dye to the pre-washed elbow or behind the ear with cotton fiber or cotton.
3. Leave the dye between the elbows or behind the ear for 24 hours without covering it.
4. Then check the test site for itching, heat, pain, swelling, allergies or abnormalities. If this is not the case, you can start dyeing your hair.
(4) hair bundle test
The hair bundle test should be carried out before dyeing or bleaching.
Because everyone's hair, even the same person's head, especially white hair, has different dyeing time (white hair is usually distributed on both sides of the forehead), the hair bundle test can measure the correct time and color needed for dyeing hair, so the hair bundle test before dyeing hair is an essential step. The steps of hair bundle test are as follows:
First, the hair dyes are mixed in a fixed proportion.
Apply the prepared dye evenly to the whole bundle of hair and leave it for a long time to make it change color. The length of time depends on the quality of hair and the condition of products.
Wash and wipe the hair bundle and measure its time. If it is necessary to achieve a darker color, the dyeing time can be extended, and if it is lighter, the dyeing time can be reduced. If the color difference is too large, choose another color and do the hair bundle test again.
How to observe the hair bundle test when bleaching and dyeing;
If the color is not light enough for the first inspection, you should reapply the bleached hair and check it later.
If the color of the first inspection is too light, the time should be shortened. If you choose other milder bleaching agents according to different hair qualities.
If the hair is resistant or difficult to handle, you can consider using strong bleach, such as grade 7, ultra-blue and so on. Used for hair bundle test.
If the hair has been damaged, special attention should be paid to the fading shape and time change in the hair bundle test as the standard of bleaching and dyeing.
(5) Prepare not to dye your hair
You and your clients are ready for color selection, skin test and hair bundle test, and you can prepare to dye your hair. Please note the following points:
Check whether all utensils are ready before dyeing.
Because most hair dyes are not easy to clean when they get on clothes, towels, scarves and plastic scarves should be prepared for customers.
In order to keep the most complete customer information, a customer information card is necessary. It can not only give you sufficient information, but also serve as a standard for dyeing your hair in the future. At the same time, this professional contact will make customers have more confidence in you.
Hair dyeing method
Permanent dyeing methods can be divided into two types:
One-step dyeing method.
Two-step dyeing method.
The dyeing method of applying hair dye to hair only once is called one-step method. Because this simple one-step procedure has two chemical effects, the effect is weak, so this hair dyeing method is usually used for slightly changing colors or dyeing white hair. Two-step dyeing method uses two different methods to achieve the purpose of dyeing hair. The method of dyeing is to bleach the color first and then dye it with other colors. Because of the dual method, the hair color changes greatly.
(1) needle bottle dyeing method (one-step dyeing method)
Dye your hair with a sharp-nosed bottle. Dye solutions can be mixed quickly and easily controlled. Just pour the dye and oxidant into the needle-nose bottle, put on gloves, cover the needle-nose bottle, and flick it up and down with your hands for 4~5 times.
When dyeing hair, divide the hair into four areas as shown in the figure, and apply the hair dye in parallel as indicated by the white line. If you dye your hair with a sharp-nosed bottle, it is very simple to divide the line with a sharp-nosed bottle.
Hold the split hair with your left hand as shown in the picture, exposing the hair roots or new hair.
Put the needle bottle on the newly grown hair and squeeze the needle bottle evenly to make the hair dye evenly spread on the hair. The method can be to apply hair dye from left to right, and then pick out new hair bundles from right to left. Repeat this action to dye your hair.
(2) two-step dyeing method
Bleaching and dyeing
Bleaching and dyeing can make customers' hair feel softer and more natural. This bleaching and dyeing can remove the pigment particles from the original hair and add the required color, which can not only bleach the hair color, but also dye it into the desired color, which has a dramatic effect. Hair will become porous after bleaching, so it needs moderate hair care.
From black hair to white usually goes through seven steps, and the process of color change is as follows:
When the white hair is dyed black, if the white hair exceeds 50%, it should be bleached first and then dyed to achieve a uniform effect.
(3) hair dye preservation
Hair dye will deteriorate under the influence of cold, heat and sunshine, so the preservation of hair dye is very important. When storing, choose a place with normal temperature and small temperature change, so as not to be exposed to the sun.
Good quality hair dyes and oxidants have high stability. If they are not used up, they will be effective within one month as long as the cover is tightly closed, especially if the oxidants are properly preserved, they will not fail within three years. But remember, the mixed hair dye should be discarded to avoid failure or explosion. Usually, the oxidant is hydrogen peroxide, of which 20 volumes of hydrogen peroxide is the most suitable. Hydrogen peroxide with insufficient purity will bubble and be difficult to achieve.
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