20 1 1 After the Sixth Ring Road climbed Mount Everest, I asked Mozuo, which other mountains are more distinctive? They said Bogda, Liuhuan said when I could go up, and Mozuo said I would practice for another five years. Now five years have passed, and the Sixth Ring Road has come to Bogda.
On 20/0/5, Kloc boarded the wind chaser in Muztag Ata and asked Mocuo what skills he needed to practice to go to Bogda and what state he reached. Mocuo said that ice climbing, rock climbing, physical quality and psychological quality all need to be improved, and the wind chaser said that I understand.
Soso said that I am a native of Urumqi and have traveled on foot eight times. Can you let me go in and see him? I don't expect to climb to the top, I just want to worship at close range.
Many people may not be familiar with Bogda Peak, but for Xinjiang people, it is definitely an extremely emotional peak. The first one is from Xinjiang, and you can generally see his majestic figure in Urumqi. When flying in and out of Urumqi, the first iconic snow mountain is Bogda. Although he is not tall, but the difficulty is not low, the risk factor is not low, so climbers pay little attention. The climbers of this Bogda activity are all old players with climbing experience and have had a run-in with us. Everyone knows each other better and trusts each other more. Therefore, the preliminary preparation is relatively sufficient, the arrangement is easy to implement, and the tasks in climbing are easy to allocate, which is very helpful for this climbing activity. Five members of Ai Shangfeng's team (Mo Mo, Six Commandments, Zhuifeng, Sousou and Xiao Wang) climbed the main peak of Bogda at an altitude of 5,445 m, and arrived at the base camp safely at 23: 65,438+02 on September 6, 2065+07, and the climbing activity came to an end.
Some people say that people who climb the snow-capped mountains are fools, so we may be the stupidest part of them, and we are the ones who are willing to be stupid all the time. There are seven members in this climb: Mo Yu, Six Commandments, Zhuifeng, Soso, Laopang, Erbei and Xiao Wang. Everyone has a relationship with Bogda. There are three Xinjiang people in the team. Bogda can be seen sitting there quietly every day in Urumqi, and a row of snow-capped mountains can be seen in and out of Urumqi. How can it not be exciting and fascinating? Soso traveled back and forth through Bogda eight times, and every time he reached the foot of the mountain, he couldn't help kowtowing, and he had an unspeakable feeling and experience for Bogda. After climbing Mount Everest for the first time, Six Commandments made up their minds to go to Bogda. After five years of preparation, all parts of the country participated in the training courses of China Xie Deng Association. In order to climb Bogda, I spent more than two years in the rock hall and skating rink, and went to Korea for ice climbing training. This is the exchange for our successful climbing.
The activity was held on August 29th, and everyone arrived in Urumqi 1 ~ 2 days in advance. In order to get everyone into the state ahead of time, Momo found a wooden bed board for everyone to practice crampons on and exchange their views and past experiences on this rock climbing. The temperature in Urumqi seems to have been raised by our enthusiasm and body temperature in those days. In order to better grasp everyone's situation and control the whole process of rock climbing activities, we took everyone to Urumqi for warm-up training in basic rock climbing techniques and the first run-in of rock climbing teams on the 29th. On August 30th, we all set off from Urumqi for three mountain villages (note that there are three mountain villages, not three mountain villages), set off from Dashi to the base camp, and went all the way up from Dashi at an altitude of 3 100 to the base camp at an altitude of about 3,500m. Although the altitude is not high, the route is as long as 2 1km.
Due to the problem of refueling, it was already two o'clock at noon when we arrived at the big stone, and we didn't arrive at the base camp until ten o'clock that night. It began to rain lightly. Fortunately, everyone took out their coats and trousers in advance, so as not to get wet by the enthusiastic Bogda.
The next day is the time for formal training and team running-in before climbing. This traditional mountain climbing must require everyone to have a balanced physical quality, skilled ice climbing skills, and the most important thing is that everyone should have a consistent goal, a peaceful mind and perseverance.
Bogda's routes are almost all snow slopes of different degrees, generally above 30 degrees. Some places are straight walls. In order to strengthen everyone's training effect, we are required to train our feet above the puddle and fall into the puddle if we are not serious. This training method is very effective and has a very good training effect on personal psychological stress and ability.
Under Bogda's gaze, everyone trained very carefully, practicing footwork on an ice slope of about 50 degrees, and assisting the insertion, poking and typing of the ice cone. Climb up the ice wall, cross and climb down. Climbing down is undoubtedly the most stressful and painful training method. In the first training, everyone went up slowly. When the upper part was ready to install the descender, they silently said that they could not descend, but climbed down. Everyone slowly picked up pickaxes, changed their legs and walked down. It is a calm operation to practice at a height of about 10 meter.
Bogda Mountains Exposed during Training Interval
Ice lake on the way home and 46 13 in the distance.
Rizhao Jinshan
Don't let go of time at night, be familiar with knots and equipment operation, and exchange training feelings and experiences during the day.
In multi-stage climbing training, everyone has to carry out a series of operations, such as guiding climbing, protecting and removing anchor points. In an alpine climb, there is no division of identity between team members and team leaders, only the definition of climbers. Everyone has the same role as a climber, but everyone is different, with complementary advantages and different climbing tasks. Everyone rises alternately, trains different climbing methods, and establishes different security systems to ensure safety.
In order to improve the climbing efficiency, the training of traveling protection has become the top priority of this climbing. This paper focuses on the importance of grouping, the erection and removal of anchor points, and self-help and mutual rescue in case of unexpected situations such as sliding and falling. Nothing is more important than climbing safely. We accept controllable risks that can bear the consequences, rather than blindly taking risks.
In order to avoid the bad weather, all of us decided to start early. On September 2nd, we set out from the base camp to camp C 1, and the whole journey lasted for six and a half hours. We walked all the way through the last moraine of the glacier, jumped over the ravines and ridges on the glacier, followed the lateral moraine, and finally came to camp C 1, which is about 4000m long. The sunset is just right.
On September 3rd, everyone went to Camp C2, and the team member Laopang decided to give up mountaineering, which was a great blow and loss to everyone. However, everyone has maintained considerable respect for Lao Pang's personal choices, and risks should be prevented in advance. Mountaineering is no joke, especially in front of a mountain like Bogda, it is more difficult and important to make a judgment in advance and retreat rationally. After bidding farewell to Lao Pang, everyone moved forward in groups, silently escorting the way, six precepts to protect themselves and chasing the wind. There was a search and climb in the middle, and Xiao Wang picked up the rope and took down the anchor point. Everyone has an orderly division of labor, which saves climbing time and personal physical fitness to the greatest extent. Finally, there are almost four cross lanes, and the rope spacing and average slope are about 40 degrees. Thanks to the intensive training a few days ago, everyone chose different footwork according to their own conditions (silent use of the whole tooth, we all used mixed footwork, and some sections used front teeth translation), and spent the most difficult part in our eyes. Arrive at C2 at about 6: 20 p.m. group
Next to it is a crack that devours everything.
Finally, cross-cutting the ice slope definitely tests the psychology.
Urumqi in the night
In order to reduce the load, everyone decided to sacrifice comfort to the greatest extent. We decided that five people would take a big tent to C3 and make two plans, C3- Peak-C3; C3 peak C2. According to everyone's physical condition, we decided to choose two exit schemes. The section from C2 to C3 is still the same as the day before. One is a long-distance snow slope with a slope of about 50 degrees. This time, the snow is very good. The hard snow on the surface can make people step on it steadily, and kicking it in will not be too hard and will not hurt their feet. After walking through the snow slope, they walked through the mixed zone of rocks and ice and snow, and the upper protection and the lower protection were alternately carried out. Both ends of the knot rope are fixed in individual sections, and the middleman pushes the elevator to pass quickly. In this way, we finally reached C3 before dark.
I almost dropped my cell phone here.
Finally came to c3.
Crowd on the eve of the summit
We got up at 4: 30 in the morning and wanted to leave at 6: 30 in the morning, but the strong wind in Bogota and the temperature outside the tent made us postpone the plan to climb the summit again and again, and finally we waited until the sun came out. At 8: 30, we packed our things and set off from C3. The route from C3 to the top of the mountain is also a section of ice and snow followed by a section of complex rocks. In order to improve the efficiency of climbing, we climb in a rotating way to protect the people below and move forward all the way. Finally, we reached the fake roof. Facing the peak of Bogda, we all knelt down to worship the peak, and everyone's dreams and expectations will come true.
Reach the false top
12: 26, all the staff climbed the main peak of Bogda, and everyone was silent for a long time, only the mountain wind roared past. At this moment, we stood on the top of the mountain and cried. Bogda, thank you for letting us appreciate you so closely, and thank you for letting us fulfill a long-cherished wish! Thank you!
After staying at the top of the mountain for a while, the Six Commanders climbed down and withdrew. In order to improve the descending efficiency, the leader should protect from above, and the rest should descend with equipment and ropes according to their ability and physical strength, and the last one should climb down. It's easier to go up than down. We returned to C3 around 5:30 pm, and everyone reported their physical condition. We decided to stop going south and spend the night in C3.
On September 6th, we set off from C3 at 8:00, fixed the rope and lowered the equipment all the way, and arrived at C2 around 1:00 in the afternoon. After half an hour, we got off at C 1 from C2, and the cross nightmare began again. Soso kicked with a long pickaxe and moved over step by step, so he had to feel his amazing willpower. After coming down, he was blue all over. On the way, the sky was covered with snow and fog. Bogda, who was always gentle when we climbed, finally showed his violent side. Fortunately, we have completed the climbing task and basically retreated to safety.