1, don't think that famous clubs are so good, it is best to weigh them. For example, Hendry used a very common club, which was given to him by his father when he was a child. Famous brand clubs are very expensive. The first one I bought was RILLY's snooker club, and the cheapest way to return the store was more than 400 yuan. Later, I fell in love with Jiuqiu and bought two Jiuqiu clubs, which are not famous brands, but they are very comfortable to use. In fact, you can have a good choice for 200 yuan. It is the most important thing to choose the one that suits you best in the same group.
If you are a beginner, I suggest you buy a snooker club, which can play both big and small balls. And practicing snooker hard for a period of time will make your accuracy get a huge leap. Don't forget that many top nine-ball players started playing snooker. At present, the integrated clubs with tens of dollars used in general billiards clubs can't be called snooker clubs, and the real snooker clubs are thinner. According to the position of the connecting ring, the snooker stick can be divided into 1/2 and 1/4. The center of gravity of 1/4 pole is relatively backward, and the price is relatively expensive because the first half is relatively long and the requirements for wood are relatively high. Many people who specialize in snooker prefer this kind of stick, but the only drawback is that it is a little inconvenient to carry.
Here are some materials. Take a look.
Most domestic club consumers still don't know enough about how to buy clubs, especially about club shafts. Some people say that the whiter the shaft, the better. Some people say that the yellow shaft is harder, and some people say that the heavier the shaft is, or what the grain of the shaft should be ... It is very confusing, but it is not just the influence of the wood itself. Even the forehand taper, such as Pro taper or European taper shaft, will have great differences in hitting the ball, each with its own advantages and disadvantages, so don't say which one is the best, but which one suits your way and feeling best.
Front timber (1)
The shaft of the club consists of leather head, front corner, decorative ring (commonly known as backing ring) and nut (only used for locking iron teeth). However, the hitting ability and characteristics of the club are determined by the quality of the front cut. A good pre-cutting must have three elements before making: first, wood characteristics and wood quality; Second, the production process and organizational structure; Third, the consideration of strike capability. The following are the factors that most manufacturers must consider when making the front part of the club, starting with the characteristics and quality of wood.
White hard maple
I. Types of wood
At present, almost all club manufacturers agree that the front section made of maple is the most suitable wood for playing fancy pool. Birch, mahogany and other wood were used as the front section, but none of them is more suitable than maple. English grey is often used to make the front cut of snooker clubs in Europe, but it is rarely used in fancy hitting clubs. There are two kinds of maple: soft maple and hard maple. Soft maple is not suitable for frontal cutting, and hard maple can be divided into sugar maple and black maple, among which sugar maple is also called rock maple and black maple. Sugar maple is distributed between North America and Canada, about north of new york, south of Michigan, near Ontario and Quebec.
Front-cut wood (2)
Second, Grain.
There are two kinds of hard maple wood grain, among which the straight wood grain is used to make the front cut, and the other parts with curved or bird's eye wood grain are mostly used to make the butt of the club. However, the following three basic requirements must be considered before making hardwood maple: A, the grain should be straight B, the grain should be consistent C, and the grain should be important.
A, the wood grain should be straight: for example, the wood grain is straight along the whole front length.
B, the texture should be consistent: if the texture of wood is symmetrical, the interval is consistent. The above two points A and B are the most basic requirements for wood grain by most rod makers. Especially the length of the bottom of the leather head 15~45 cm is one of the standard wood selection methods, which can prevent the front section from bending after a period of time and make it easier to hit.
C, the texture should be tight: for example, the texture of the pre-cut wood should be closely arranged in the width part of the pre-cut. For maple, the range of rings used is 4 to 32 rings per inch. The more rings there are, the older the wood is, and it grows slowly in the cold climate in the north, but at least 8 rings per inch can be used as the front section. Most rod makers believe that wood with tight grain is usually denser and heavier, and the heavier front cut is harder than the lighter front cut. Therefore, many rod makers mostly require that the weight of the front cut should be at least 4 ounces, but some rod makers object to this. They don't agree that the tight front cut will be hard, and the too hard front cut may not be easy to play, depending on the user's driving habits. Opinions vary, and the only consensus is that the front must be hard.
Hard stone maple (tenon nail)
Third, Color (color)
The color of the front cut varies from nearly white to light brown, and most of the front cuts are from stone to bark, not stone. The color of front-cut wood will be affected by some factors, such as growth environment, cutting season, drying method and so on. Generally, the wood cut down in summer may produce dark sugar lines (the sap solidifies into crystals), especially after cutting, it will be affected by high temperature. This phenomenon will be more obvious. In addition, if the wood is often wet by rain after logging, the color of the wood will become dark, and the above problems will be avoided when logging in winter. Rapid dehumidification and vacuum drying in a short time are the best methods to treat wood. Otherwise, if the high-temperature rapid drying method is adopted, it will not only darken the color of wood, but also destroy the cell structure of wood, which will eventually lead to poor quality and poor front-end performance. Some pole makers think that white pre-cut wood is the result of proper cutting and drying, but others don't think so. They don't think that the color of pre-cut is an important factor in choosing pre-cut, but inevitably, white pre-cut is usually more popular with consumers.
Fourth, Clarity.
The first beautification consideration of front-facing wood cutting is neatness and clarity. Stripes, speckles or other appearance defects will appear on most maple trees, but these defects have little effect on the real striking ability, and these small defects will be covered up by the so-called wood grain appearance defects after long-term use by users. In order to meet the requirements of customers in European market, Asian market, and even American domestic market, some club makers choose top maple (the cut-off price of some manual club makers was more than 300 dollars before), knowing that the real top maple grows very slowly, and it is extremely difficult to obtain only a small production area all the year round in the northern climate. This phenomenon will lead to two results, one is that consumers have to pay a high price to get it, and the other is to choose pre-cut wood with a little mottled grain.