It was not until we walked from the northernmost Akatama Desert to the southernmost Patagonia and went to Easter Island thousands of miles away from the mainland that we really realized what the poet said. When I came to Valparaiso, I realized why Nie Luda had such an expression.
Valparaiso is the hometown of Nie Luda.
Valparaiso is located on the south Pacific coast, 0/20km away from the capital Santiago/Kloc. Its predecessor was a small Indian village. 1536, Spanish explorers discovered this place, and the captain Juan de Savedra renamed it after his hometown. Since then, it has become a Spanish colony.
Because it is not far from the upper part of strait of magellan, Valparaiso has become a necessary supply port for Europeans to travel to the west coast of South America or North America. By the mid-Kloc-0/9th century, the gold rush in the western United States, Valparaiso, as a transit station, also ushered in its golden age. From a Spanish town with less than 30,000 people, it quickly developed into a big city with160,000 people, and Valparaiso was also dubbed as the "Pearl of the Pacific".
Val bledsoe's good days ended with the opening of the Panama Canal in 19 15. Almost overnight, ships from the west coast of the United States turned to the canal. Once the status of the world port disappeared, the prosperity of Val bledsoe stopped.
By the early 1990s, the city's unique heritage had been lost, and many Chileans abandoned the city, but the most creative artists, poets and painters followed.
A grassroots movement to preserve the grassroots has flourished in Valparaiso, eventually making Valparaiso the cultural center of Chile, and the Pearl of the Pacific has turned into the cultural capital of Chile, although its position as an economic center has disappeared.
In fact, this point is worth learning when the ancient town/village in China is being rebuilt. Today, the chief village woman of Rat Emperor will take everyone to see Valparaiso.
In the old city of Valparaiso, there is almost no flat land, and the mountains and seas are through. Almost all the houses are built on the mountain, and the buildings overlap and extend upwards. The special terrain has created a special mode of transportation. For the convenience of residents, as early as 1883, people built an "elevator" connecting mountains and seas, and the whole city has built 28 elevators.
It's called an elevator, but it's more like a cable car. The inclination of the rails is mostly over 30 degrees. Today, there are still 15 cable cars creaking. They are not only vehicles, but also business cards and signs of the city. The price is also very cheap, the fare is 100 or 200 Chilean pesos, equivalent to RMB 1-2 yuan.
The old city of Valparaiso has another name-the open-air museum.
These houses built on the mountain, whether it is a merchant's mansion or an ordinary residence of fishermen and dockers, have their roofs and walls painted with colorful colors. It is said that the original reason was that sailors secretly sold paint to the public. Because they sell it secretly, every time they buy any color, it is a random event, and the color of the house becomes unpredictable.
But the bigger highlight of Valparaiso is actually not color, but wall painting.
From 1969 to 1973, students from the Art College of Catholic University created graffiti on 20 walls, and the initial collective action gradually evolved into individual independent behavior. Valparaiso's murals have become more and more diverse and bohemian, with a typical South American magic style, which makes the whole old city full of violent evil forces and makes people nervous.
As a result, Valparaiso was listed in the World Cultural Heritage List by UNESCO in 2003, which was a great victory for the non-governmental forces.
I have to mention the Valparaiso Foundation, which was established with the help of the North American poet Todd Tankin. They not only participated in the restoration project of the city's main heritage, but also helped improve the tourist facilities and brought jazz, folk music and opera festivals, and the application for heritage was mainly promoted by them.
There are many artists in the ancient city. When I was shopping, I met a man and a woman with clarinet and guitar. The boy asked the emperor to play, and then took out his flute to follow. The emperor intends to show the performance of China bamboo flute. The faster it is played, the louder it becomes. Although the wooden clarinet in South America has a mellow bass, it is not good at fast rhythm and has a narrow scale. The young man finally gave in gladly, during which he also attracted two JCs, and the applause was thunderous. Watching the excitement is not too big.
As mentioned earlier, Valparaiso is the hometown of Nie Luda. In fact, there is also his former residence here. When the poet was tired of the hustle and bustle of San Diego, he wanted to find a place to live:
Not too high or too low, not quiet or lonely; In the humble neighborhood, you can't see or hear the neighbors' voices, and you have personality and comfort; There is a lot of wind, neither too big nor too small; Away from everything and convenient transportation, independent and convenient life, but also very cheap. "
The conditions were difficult, and then he found La Sebastiana a.
I spent 6000 pesos per person to visit the house. The furnishings in the room are nothing more than some daily necessities used by the poet, and some traces of past lives can be vaguely seen. What is impressive is this chair in the yard, where visitors sit sideways, as if they were having an old friend-like conversation with the poet across time and space.
Although the old city is beautiful, it is also full of undercurrents, so people always remind us to pay attention to safety.
In Sotomayor Square, a policewoman stopped the mouse emperor and reminded him to put the camera in his backpack and carry it on his back. Finally, she wrote down the detailed address and contact number of the police station and gave it to him. Is this the fact of dating in the name of official business? In fact, from yesterday to now, at least four locals reminded us to pay attention to the safety of backpacks and cameras. Of course they care about foreign tourists, but we have been shooting with cameras, but we have not encountered any danger.
The surface of the old city is beautiful, but the environment is really far from sanitation, and urine can be smelled everywhere, which shows that many people urinate in the street. We chose a path when we went down the mountain. It was a very "tasty" road.
I can't help thinking of Li Jieren, a poet in Tang Dynasty. After the trip, I met a robber After I signed up, I didn't expect the robber to ask for a poem. After a four-line poem "Su Sha in Minefield meets a night guest" was presented, the robber gave Li She a lot of jewelry and money to make amends. What a romantic dynasty.
We were attracted by a shabby but artistic four-story building and stopped to watch it for a long time.
A young man came out and explained to us that a few years ago, he found that the house had been abandoned for a long time and moved in and turned it into an art studio. He said, "I have the right to have a place to live. The only person who can forbid me to use this house is its owner, but its owner is gone. Therefore, no one has the right to drive me away from here. " A few words will be amazing. There are tens of millions of mansions in Ande, and all the poor people in the world are very happy. The law of social operation in Chile and the Chilean people's awareness of rights are amazing!
This self-awakening is probably the fundamental reason why Valparaiso can truly become the cultural capital.