I have a soft spot for gourd head, because 1990 ate gourd head in a restaurant in Xiaonanmen. That summer, my friend asked me to go to Xiaonanmen to eat gourd head. At that time, there were two rows of crude tile houses in Xiaonanmen, and several Hulutou shops were distributed on the east side of the road. The shop is very simple, the storefront is not big, and a shed is set up outside the shop. There is a big pot in front of the shop. There is a console table beside the cauldron. There are five or six bowls with blue flowers on a white background. There are all kinds of spices in the bowl. This is the operation room of the shop. Although the storefront is simple, it is reassuring to watch the delicious food made in the store and eat it. We saw a dozen people standing in front of a Hulutou store watching a master's operation. We thought the store should be good, so we made it.
In front of the cauldron stood a master in his sixties, short and thin, with a flat head, a blue and white apron and a mossy cigarette in his mouth. Next to him stood a slightly fat helper in his thirties, who looked like an old man's apprentice. The apprentice put a bowl of steamed bread broken by customers on the console table and put it in front of the master.
The master stood by the cauldron, picked up the bowl filled with broken steamed buns in his left hand, wiped it with a spoon in his right hand, picked up the bowl and drew two circles on the steaming pot like rolling dice, then put the bottom of the bowl on the edge of the pot, and with a hard wrist, the bowl drew a circle on the pot, and the diners around him gave a sigh of surprise. At this moment, the broth in the pot is steaming and rolling. He scooped a spoonful of soup with a spoon, poured it into the bun, patted it with the back of the spoon, scooped another spoonful and patted it again. At this time, his movements suddenly stopped and looked up at the onlookers. Just when everyone was wondering, suddenly, he buckled the bun in the bowl with a spoon and raised his hand holding the bowl. Just then, the soup in the bowl drew an arc, and a drop of water flew up and fell into the boiling soup in the pot like pouring pearls of all sizes into a plate of jade. His hand was held high and exaggerated, but the soup he held didn't fall into the pot or spill at all. While everyone was still amazed at his actions, he put the bottom of the bowl on the edge of the pot, pushed the hand holding the bowl hard to the left and stabbed it at once, and the bowl rotated 180 degrees on the edge of the pot. After a turn, the bowl is still firmly in my hand. His eyes were fixed on the bowl at this moment, and he quickly scooped up another spoonful of soup and scraped the bowl straight with a spoon. There is another hot soup and a 180-degree bowl in the air. Before people closed their open mouths in surprise, he picked up the bowl, scooped up two spoonfuls of soup, turned slightly, faced the console table where the seasoning was placed, and scooped the seasoning into the bowl as quickly as a chicken pecked with a spoon. Salt, monosodium glutamate, coriander, all the ingredients seem to have been measured, evenly put in the bowl, and then pour half a spoonful of soup into the bowl with a spoon and say, "End the buns!" " Bowls were distributed. The apprentice next to him immediately took the bowl and left.
The onlookers were stunned by his performance, and it was not until the apprentice took the bowl away that everyone seemed to wake up. The master then smoked a few cigarettes leisurely and picked up the bowl.
We watched the master's performance and were busy asking about the origin of this man. Someone next to him said that he was the master of the shopkeeper, known as Zhang San, the gourd head, an authentic descendant of the gourd head. Today, he came to support his disciples. Watching the master's performance and eating his carefully operated gourd head, I thought to myself that I was glad you came.
Later, we went several times, but never saw the master again. Without the wonderful performance of the master, the gourd head is not so delicious.
Now, the rows of tile houses in Xiaonanmen have been demolished. I wonder if Master Zhang San is still alive. I have always been impressed by his wonderful performance of dancing in front of the cauldron and interpreting the operation process of the gourd head. Later, I traveled all over the streets of Xi 'an with great appreciation, looking for that kind of performance, but I never saw it again.
□ Author Ren Zhan
Xi Evening News > 2065 438+08 08 12 > Edition: Xi 'an Geography
The authentic one should be Nanyuan Menchun. But now I don't inherit the tradition. Tradition should be four intestines, two stomachs, a piece of fat and thin meat and vermicelli. This is the authentic practice from before liberation to the spring of the 1990s. Not anymore. Because I am a stranger in the south yard. This soup has been available since spring, and it tastes good.
In the past spring, the taste of paomo was ok, and the soup was good, except for the lack of intestines, which was really good! However, since Xi 'an Catering Company introduced mutton bread in soup to no avail, it came up with the idea of gourd bread in soup, and spring has changed. The first is that the price has changed dramatically. In spring, there used to be a dish called Chrysanthemum Fat Intestines, which paid attention to cooking and was not easy to cook. It tastes really delicious!
But now this dish has been lost, and no one will cook it in spring. The soup dumplings taste wrong, too. Steamed buns are hard, too, and the soup is not good. They are not as mature as before. Western-style drinks, you ruined the authentic Chinese hamburger in Fan Shi, the mutton bread in the soup of Lao Sun, Baiyun Zhang jiaozi and Dehua Chang jiaozi.
As a native of Xi, I have done some research and visited all the Hulutou shops I can go to. It's hard to answer which is the real thing. Hulutou Paomo originated in the prosperous Tang Dynasty and was cleverly directed by Sun Simiao, the king of medicine. It's been around for thousands of years. At present, the longest recorded spring is about 100 years old. Because of the big pot of rice, the product is far from being so famous.
Cucurbit head is mainly composed of bone soup, large intestine, cake and seasoning water.
Gourd head pays attention to the freshness of soup, so enough bones can be guaranteed. Many stores change bones every two or three days, and the quality is difficult to guarantee. And it is best to add soup when the amount of soup is reduced, but it is rare to use two pots to make soup. Responsible businesses add boiling water, and some directly add cold water with faucets.
As the main ingredient, the large intestine is really difficult to handle. I found that all the businesses that make large intestine are good, many of them are specially delivered, and sometimes the quality is difficult to guarantee. It's best to make cakes freshly. They are delicious. Seasoning water is the secret recipe of each family. It is said that dozens of ingredients are used, but sometimes we can't take it too seriously.
A bowl of delicious gourd head should use soup, large intestine, cake, seasoning water and oil, including the chef's skills. Only when everything is satisfactory can we make a satisfactory gourd head. If you find any authentic gourd head, please trust me. Focus on Shaanxi snacks gourd head, love to eat pig's trotters, thank you for your attention, welcome to communicate.
I am a native of Qu Wei. From 65438 to 0996, when I started working in Qiangzi Road, Beiguan, my friends, classmates, unit leaders and colleagues almost ate all over Xi 'an. Speaking of eating gourd head paomo, I have been to several famous local old shops in Xi 'an, but after eating our gourd head paomo (Huangchengxuan) at Quwei West Street Cross in 2009, I never want to run away again! Intestines are really delicious, soup is really bone soup, and steamed bread is more traditional. Especially in recent years, the boss has improved the skill of braising pig's trotters and added a delicious taste! I have a classmate who moved to Shanghai with his family many years ago and came back to visit relatives this year. He likes it, too. After I took him to taste it, he said it felt better than the gourd head in the south yard! To tell the truth, as long as you do it with your heart, don't be too commercialized, get quick success and instant benefit, you can do it well, and you will certainly catch the diners' stomachs!
Shaanxi Xi' an traditional snacks ~ Hulutou paomo
Hulutou has a long history, also known as "fried white sausage". Its basic raw materials are pig large intestine and pig belly. Because the pig's large intestine is thick in oil and looks like a gourd, it is called gourd head. Hulutou has been circulated for thousands of years and has been famous in Chang 'an since ancient times.
Hulutou steamed buns are characterized by bright white inside, tender meat and fresh soup, fat but not greasy, and fragrant smell. Eating with kimchi is refreshing and the oil is palatable, which is suitable for all ages.
Xi people have their own tastes when eating gourd heads. In the lush years, they like meat and rich soup, which is spicy and fragrant. Female friends like to eat clear soup alone, which is beneficial to the intestines and refreshing to taste its fragrance. Old people like the beauty of its shape, color, taste and taste. Gourd head not only tastes delicious, but also has the value of eating and chatting, so it can be eaten for a long time and is deeply loved by the public. Share some unique gourd head foods in Xi for reference only.
1. Zhu Xiuying Bangbangrou Hulutou
His large intestine is clean, the soup is fresh, full of flavor and delicious. Kimchi looks unremarkable. It is crisp and refreshing in the mouth, accompanied by smoked stick meat. Sipping wine is really enjoyable.
2. Spring is coming.
An old-fashioned Hulutou Paomo restaurant has a bright environment and rich side dishes, including meat, sausages, pig ears and fermented bean curd. The pig's large intestine and stomach are soft and rotten, fat and waxy, without any peculiar smell. The soup base is well cooked, and the soup head is milky white and delicious.
Thirty years ago, the most awesome gourd head in the city was the gourd head in Mule City near Nantou toilet, followed by Liu in Baishulin and Zhu in Lulu. These homes are gone now, and Hulutou pays attention to craftsmanship and roots. As for this "root", what is it? No one can tell. What I understand is that in addition to steaming steamed bread, there is also a bowl of bright oil on the pot, which contains a secret recipe. Now you can eat the gourd head with roots only in Jiandong Street, near Leju Factory, and next to a public toilet. There is also a gourd head next to the gate of the factory affiliated to Xianyang Evergreen Foundation, which is sprinkled with braised pork and leeks, which is worth eating. The first one is Zhang Ji's and the second one is Xianyang's. In fact, there is basically no exclusive secret recipe for gourd head now. Everything in the commercial society is transparent and smells bad, but we can't find the old taste of the past anymore! Because there are no more days of hunger and cold.
Xi 'an's gourd head has a long history, so there are delicious gourd heads in all directions. Personally, I prefer the germination of Hutchison Street in Xiaonanmen and the spring of the time-honored brand of powder fragrance. In the past, in addition to Beiguan, Dongguan Hulutou, Xiguan Hulutou and Nanguan Hulutou were the hegemons in various regions. Including these stores now, business is still good. In addition, the gourd head at the intersection of Bianjia Village and South Seismological Bureau tastes very good. In recent years, driven by big meat, Wenchang Men Site site, Zhang★★★ (name can't be remembered, I'm sorry), Xiaonanmen, and Bangbangrou gourd head have gradually begun to be accepted and recognized by everyone. I used to sit in the shop and ask for some cold dishes, some bottles of beer and a warm sausage. This is a supreme enjoyment. Now there are not many really delicious warm-mixed fat sausages, and every store is great meat. . .
Personal evaluation is so much. Due to personal habits, I can't provide pictures. Please forgive me. I'm just a native of Xi. This is not a gourmet coffee. I hope everyone will forgive the flaws in the article. . .
Speaking of Hulutou paomo, it is very popular in Xi, but it is rare outside Shaanxi. There are less than 20 famous gourd heads in Xi 'an, and the most famous in the city is spring. There are several small south gates, and there are also several Wenchang Men Site ruins. There is the first bowl in Shaanxi in the west, Xiguan Hulutou in the north, a brother Hulutou in the east, and an old Dongguan in the east, which tastes delicious to me. The Li family courtyard, Koujia in the south, and Nibo in Chang 'an District and Imperial City. I also ate a lot. Personally, I think the most authentic ones are Laodongguan in Dongguan South Street and Huangchengxuan in Qu Wei North Street.
If you want to taste the authentic gourd head, you still have to germinate in heaven. But compared with the 1970s, it tastes different. Eat his soup, without Chili, it has a little taste of the past. The intestines are well handled. Stick meat should be eaten completely and completely. It tastes much better now. Everyone has his own hobbies. But the only thing that can make the old flavor of the 1970s is germination.