In this exclusive interview, Arienne King, the media editor of AHE, interviewed Farrell Monaco, an archaeologist who specializes in Roman Mediterranean cooking practice and food culture, and the author of the blog Tavola Mediterranea. Starting from its own experience, Monaco talked about the challenges faced by ancient Roman cuisine, food history, experimental archaeology and propaganda.
"So far, I have found Rome's food preparation practices and' recipes' very bold and complicated."
Adrian Kohler: Hello, Farrell, thank you for talking to me on behalf of the Encyclopedia of Ancient History. In order to break the deadlock, I would like to ask what makes you interested in ancient history and archaeology?
FM: If I want to be 100% honest, it was when I first watched raiders of the lost ark as a child. I've been hooked ever since. I want to say that many archaeologists my age may have the same epiphany! When I was a child, my father also noticed this interest. He bought me archaeological books and classified the cultural relics (arrows, icons, etc.) I copied. ) and took me to the museum, which greatly cultivated this interest. He had a great influence on my interest in history and archaeology when I was a child, and then as an adult, I developed in the direction that suits me best: food!
Adrian Kohler: I think many people are fascinated by history and archaeology in a similar way. For me, it's just looking at the mummy (1999)!
I am a staunch supporter of archaeological entertainment, if it can arouse public interest! Yes, sometimes it is inaccurate, but if it is fictional entertainment, no one can complain. All this is very interesting. But if it makes children or adults interested in digging deep into real data, then it serves this discipline well.
Adrian Kohler: At this point, I have to ask: Why food history in particular? What are the ancient dietary patterns and cultures that resonate with you?
FM: I think I've been a food lover from the beginning. I am not a gourmet myself (I don't like this word because it is essentially elitism), but I have always liked cooking, baking, doing experiments in the kitchen and learning about food from other cultures. My interest in food archaeology and its senses began when I was engaged in food-related archaeological excavations in Italy (such as Monterey Stasio). At that time, it was concerned with food-related data, not the food itself.
For example: olive oil ear bottle, tituli picti, business relationship, trade route … but not olive oil! What does it taste like? Sharp or dull? How did the Romans use it? What are they wearing? Eat good oil and use cheap oil as a lamp? …
We often see the description of "daily life" in archaeological writings, but rarely touch the food in daily life in terms of senses. We are dominated by taste, aroma and texture. We eat the same thing over and over again because it brings us happiness. So did the Romans. I am interested in their tastes and cooking habits. Thankfully, they left an awesome archaeological record, which can be used to obtain this information. There are also text and picture records. In my opinion, combining these data with experiments and sensory (experiential) archaeology can make archaeologists get closer to understanding the food in the Roman world and the food preferences of the Romans.
AK: The public's interest in food history has increased, and educational institutions and food brands are paying attention to this. Why do you think the history of food attracts so many people's interest?
FM: I think the reaction to food history in recent years is part of a general shift in our society's concern about food and food supply. All we have to do is turn on Netflix, CNN or food channels to see people's interest in food culture, food production and food stories. Some are political and some are purely entertaining, but now there is a revival of food culture, which I think is the collective response of human beings to our recent disconnection from food. During the war years, the process of urbanization accelerated and the industrialization of grain production took its place.
Urbanization, leaving the farm, our dependence on restaurants and grocery stores, and women working away from home have subsequently disconnected us from our understanding of food, agriculture, animal management/animal husbandry (dairy products/meat supply) in many ways. This is a bad thing in itself, but it is the result of evolution and change. I think we are looking back at our history and food history and connecting with what we have again. This is also the key to unite us locally and globally. For me, food archaeology is a part of it. If we understand the importance our ancestors attached to food cultivation and preparation, we may pay more attention to it today and in this era.
AK: These are important ideas that I have never considered. The deep connection between human beings and farms and food is a powerful means to reconnect with the past, which is meaningful. In the final analysis, the emergence of agriculture may be the catalyst of civilization, so it is natural to study history by tracing human eating habits.
FM: I think there are many similarities between the data of food history and food archaeology. When we can observe that they participate in food culture as we do, we will have a better understanding of people in the past.
Like food and identity. I look at the food murals in Rome. What I see is the projection of the passages, beauty and taste depicted on the walls of Roman villas. Some people decide to take the time to draw food images in order to convey some information about them to their guests. I see the food they can get, the food they like to eat, because it tastes good to them, and the food (shape, color, etc. They think it is beautiful enough to paint on the wall.
We will do the same when we share lunch photos for all our friends/fans on Instagram and Facebook. We are projecting an image about what we can visit, where we are, who we are with, what we are eating and so on. This shows who we are: who we are and what we want others to think of us.
AK: You mentioned that "we are dominated by taste, aroma and texture", and the Romans also have their own tastes and food preferences. On the one hand, Mediterranean triplets (grapes, olives and wheat) can be found everywhere, but you are not familiar with staple foods like garum or expensive additives like silphium. Can you say Roman food, because there is no better name, which is more or less similar to the modern Mediterranean diet in flavor?
FM: Not necessarily. For example, when we think of modern Italian, Greek or Egyptian food, the local flavor of the Mediterranean has been localized to some extent. There is little integration in this area. My view on the taste and fragrance of ancient Roman food now is the result of their movement around the Mediterranean. Misappropriation of other grain from other confiscated land. The Romans inherited their food culture in many ways. This includes their own pre-Roman tribal sources (Latin, Samnett, Oscan, etc. ), but there are also cooking influences from Phoenicia, Carthage, Greece, Egypt, Judaism and Syria.
Grain is the backbone of the Roman diet, and Joe (or Lucius ………) consumes most calories in the form of bread, beans (porridge) and other cereal products every day on average.
From my experimental food archaeological project related to Roman food, I found that their food preparation methods and "recipes" were very bold and complicated. The flavors I recall from some of the most memorable recipes I have explained are: bold, strong, bitter, strong and rich. For example, reduce the use of wine and vinegar when cooking, and use sweet and sour taste in meat. Garlic (a salted fish seasoning) and Radix Angelicae Pubescentis and other ingredients. Exquisite souffle and souffle or cheese dishes contain ingredients that we really don't want to combine in today's era, but the final product is incredible.
[now extinct plant] silphium is used in many dishes. The Romans chose the extinction of silphium because it was cherished by the elite. Asafoetida (also known as hing) was regarded as a substitute for the poor even in ancient times, because the strong and spicy taste of silicone was an ideal additive in Roman cooking. It was Cyrene (Libya).
I can continue, but I'll let you ask questions. It is worth mentioning that the Romans did not waste food either. What can we learn from it.
Adrian Kohler: That's an interesting point. The Romans were so frugal that even used or broken ear bottles (usually clay containers filled with oil or wine) were reused in different ways before being discarded. Do you mind expanding the food waste (or lack) in the Roman Empire?
FM: You are right! Binaural bottles can be seen everywhere and appear in many different environments. They are stacked together like Monte Testaccio, and used as wall fillers or cooking tiles (heated to cover the food in the furnace). They are even used to cover bodies at funerals. The Romans did a good job in recycling and reuse. They didn't waste much. About food, this makes sense, because famine is a very real threat to the Romans.
They are constantly trying to feed the capital (Rome) by expanding and occupying more and more land and cultivated land. For example, when we look at the Mediterranean triad, the Romans planted grapes and squeezed them to make wine. But they kept the necessities (grape skins) and made further use of them. They will boil them and restore them (sometimes in lead-lined pots! ) to make a food preservative and additive called "Defrutum". And absolutely delicious!
The main products of olive are cooking oil, skin cleanser, medicine and lamp fuel ... but the Romans knew that olive core was flammable, so they used it as a kindling for bread stoves and fireplaces. Eating animals (I mean every part) is a symbolic custom in Rome. Reading Apicius's 1 century CE cookbook is not only interesting, but also disgusting sometimes!
AK: Before, you mentioned the relationship between food history and archaeology. Besides studying ancient murals and analyzing carbonized bread 2000 years ago, you can also use experimental archaeology to unlock the secrets of ancient Roman cuisine. What advantages and challenges do you find in using experimental archaeology in this way?
For me, experimental archaeology is the key to explain the process. For me, it is meaningless to evaluate and explain an object, for example, with only eyes. Looking through the glass cabinet, I don't know how we will handle and use it, which is a disadvantage. I have always felt that if we want to know something, we should make or use it ourselves. Through empirical observation, we can understand our senses in this process.
For example, a manual grain mill. What should I do with it? What does it sound like? Do I sweat because I'm consuming energy? Do I have a backache now? Will my hands tremble after 2 hours of continuous use? How does the texture look and feel? Is the flour dust in my eyes and nose because it is in the air around me? Will it hurt my eyes or throat? Finally, what is the texture of flour? Bread products What can I eat? Is it dull? Fill?
All these describe the broader picture of flour making and bread making in ancient Rome, and let us know very clearly how much time we spent feeding ourselves, how much labor we put into it, how difficult it is to buy and prepare food, and how much value food was given. You won't get this experience by looking at kitchen tools in a museum cupboard. You get this understanding by doing experiments and sensory archaeology. It greatly broadens the scope of interpretation. It's almost like walking a mile in a gladiator sandals.
Adrian Kohler: Interesting! Experimental archaeology seems to be very suitable for food and food manufacturing.
FM: As for the challenge ... I can't use the original food processing technology! But it may also be harmful to my health: for example, leucite grinding may produce gravel, which may damage my teeth. Of course, I don't want to try cooking in a lead-lined pot.
AK: I can see that you may want to avoid some risks and some conditions that cannot be copied. Many Egyptian mummies have worn or broken teeth, which can prove the danger of grinding gravel!
FM: These risks really prevent us from obtaining 100% accurate faxes. But I like to think that we are really close! For example, although we like to romanticize ancient Egypt and Rome, it must be a very difficult time.
Adrian Kohler: Speaking of experimental archaeology:
You have brought experimental archaeology to the desktop, and its audience is much wider than what you usually get through your blog Tavola Mediterranea. When you started making tavola Mediterranean, what were your expectations? What is your experience in the history of participating in public affairs?
Initially, I started blogging to celebrate the diversity of modern Mediterranean cuisine. I've always liked the Mediterranean and spent most of my adult life traveling in this area. But the more archaeological projects I participated in in Italy, the more I found myself walking in the rabbit hole of food archaeology in this classical era, and the public's acceptance of it was unbelievable.
I do research and experiments to satisfy my curiosity and theory, but the public response to blog posts is so great that it has snowballed in the past few years. Atlas Obscura, BBC and yourself have noticed it, which is a compliment. Recently, I also gave a speech and workshop in the on-site environment, and the atmosphere was warm. It's really good to experience this growing public interest first hand.
Besides; Theory is often tried and challenged by the public, which leads to further debate, research and discussion. From the barrier-free point of view, this is the public's active participation in archaeology, which is very beautiful.
Adrian Kohler: That sounds really great. To some extent, the public can help push archaeologists like you to revise and improve their working theories.
FM: That's right. Or argue further. The key is that many people are interested and involved. This means that the public is very concerned about our past and history.
This year, I launched the "Old School Kitchen", which is the name of the education department of tavola's Mediterranean trip. This is an opportunity for the public to come out and participate in live demonstrations or immersive food archaeology seminars in museums or institutions. So far, so good! I am glad to see so many people interested in my research, experiment and the whole project.
AK: In "Old School Kitchen", you invited the public to directly participate in the history of food by attending classes and experiencing food workshops. Do you find that learners respond well to this personal interaction with "living history"?
FM: Of course. First of all, getting people together to cook and prepare food is a necessary social activity for human beings. Generally speaking, we should do this more frequently. However, when people get together to understand the origin and migration of food and try to make historical food together, some wonderful things will happen: we are connected with each other, we are connected with food, and we are connected with our past. Every seminar, conference or cooking retreat I attend brings people from all over the world together to learn about the origin of food and share ideas with like-minded people. They take this experience home, to their families, workplaces and schools, and continue to develop.
"Living history" is a beautiful word, and I also encourage people to "taste history" by extracting historical food, ingredients and recipes from archaeological, written and photo records. When we savor history or experience historical landscape in an immersive or open-air museum environment (such as Pompeii), the sensory experience we have is a deeper experience for us, which helps us to deal with and contact the past to some extent. A more effective way.
Adrian Kohler: This is a good prospect for your seminar/conference/cooking retreat. It is obvious why your work can attract people's attention. Your efforts in cultivating your love for food history and archaeology are really inspiring.
Thank you for giving me the opportunity to choose your brain. I really lost track of time!
FM: Everything is fine! I am very angry. I'm really honored that you want to chat. I am very happy.
Adrian Kohler: Happiness is all I have! I know our readers will be happy to have the opportunity to see the other side of Roman archaeology.
Farrell Monaco has worked in many Italian archaeological sites, including Pompeii and Georgetown, Testas. Monaco is a member of EXARC and is currently a member of the Media Relations Committee of the American Archaeological Society (SAA).
Based on the success of Tavola Mediterranea, Monaco launched the Old School Kitchen, which is a roving public education project, focusing on food history and experimental archaeology. The old school kitchen was launched in February 20 19, and activities will be held in June and July.