One: the difference between cashmere and wool
1. The scale arrangement of wool is denser and thicker than cashmere, and the shrinkage rate is also greater than cashmere.
2. The crimp of wool is smaller than that of cashmere, and the crimp number, crimp rate and crimp recovery rate of cashmere fiber are larger, which is suitable for processing into knitwear with full hand feeling, good softness and elasticity, comfortable and natural wearing, and has good reduction characteristics, especially in the aspects of no shrinkage after washing and good shape retention. Cashmere is 1.5 ~ 2 times that of wool because of its high natural curl, compact arrangement, good cohesion during spinning and weaving and good warmth retention.
3. The skin content of cashmere is higher than wool, and the rigidity of cashmere fiber is better than wool, that is, cashmere is softer than wool.
4. The fineness of cashmere is less than wool, and the appearance quality of its products is better than wool.
5. The fineness of cashmere fiber is uniform, the density is smaller than wool, and the cross section is mostly regular and round, so the product is lighter than wool products.
6. Cashmere has better hygroscopicity than wool, can fully absorb dyes and is not easy to fade. High moisture regain and high resistance.
7. The acid and alkali resistance of wool is better than that of cashmere, and it is less damaged when it meets oxidant and reducing agent.
8. Generally, wool products have better pilling resistance than cashmere products, but they have greater felting shrinkage.
It is suggested that the fake cashmere products in the market mainly include: the cashmere content is seriously insufficient to keep cashmere products warm; Secondly, we use fine wool instead of cashmere. Generally, the fineness of cashmere is 13.5 μ m ~ 15.5 μ m, while wool is greater than this data.
Two: How to distinguish cashmere from wool
Due to the high-grade cashmere products and the popularization of cashmere products, some manufacturers mix wool fibers into cashmere products in order to obtain high profits, so as to reduce costs and deceive consumers. For ordinary consumers, cashmere fiber and wool can not be effectively distinguished, and they must rely on the corresponding testing institutions. Only professionals can identify the surface morphology of fiber with the help of microscope, so the market needs textile testing institutions to effectively identify and supervise cashmere products. In the field of fiber detection, the identification of cashmere fiber and wool is recognized as the most technically difficult detection project. For a long time, a large number of fiber inspectors have devoted themselves to the research of cashmere fiber and wool identification technology. Cashmere fiber and wool have the same structure and chemical properties. Because wool and cashmere fibers are "the same", it is difficult to distinguish and identify them by common methods such as combustion method and chemical dissolution method. At present, the most effective method is microscope method. How to identify fibers by microscope to get accurate results? Introduction is as follows:
Cashmere (left) and wool (right) under the microscope.
1. Fiber analysts need to observe the scale structure and overall morphology of cashmere and wool when using optical microscope to distinguish them. Different from wool, the surface scale thickness of cashmere fiber is thinner than wool, and it is mostly wrapped in a ring shape on the hair shaft, while the scale of wool is thicker and inlaid. Moreover, the density of cashmere covered with scales is less than that of wool, which leads to the different handfeel of cashmere fiber and wool: cashmere fiber feels smooth, while wool feels rough. In 1983, Kush and Arns observed by scanning electron microscope that the scales at both ends of wool were obviously thicker than cashmere fibers, which was an important discovery. Prior to this, microscopic detection was mainly based on the difference between scales. The difference between wool and cashmere fibers under microscope is shown on the right.
Later, wortmann continued to compare and observe the scale thickness of 29 kinds of fibers, including wool, China cashmere, Iranian cashmere, Afghan cashmere, Mongolian cashmere and mohair, alpaca wool and camel hair. Finally, it is concluded through observation that if the scale thickness of a fiber is greater than 0.55 micron, it should be considered as wool; The scale thickness of special animal fibers, including cashmere, should be less than 0.55 micron. The scale thickness of wool fiber should be greater than cashmere fiber, which provides a strong proof for the workers who use microscope to analyze fiber.
2. Because the scale of cashmere is thinner than that of wool, under the microscope, it has good light transmission performance, uniform light transmission, uniform fiber brightness, no shadow feeling and no protrusion; However, wool scales are thick, the light transmission is uneven, and there are many shadows and protrusions on the hair shaft.
3. Under the microscope, the scales of cashmere fiber tightly cover the hair shaft, and the warping angle is small, smooth and flat; However, wool is not smooth enough because of its thick scales, large warping angle and many surface protrusions.
4. Cashmere scales are longer, the spacing is larger, the density is lower than wool, and the friction coefficient between scales is lower, so its cashmere shrinkage after washing is better than wool; And the wool is poor.
5. Cashmere fiber has uniform hair shaft and little distortion; However, wool fiber has uneven hair shaft and more torsion.
6. Because the positive cortex layer is distributed on both sides, the curl of cashmere is smaller than that of wool.
Three: How to distinguish cashmere sweater, sweater and sweater?
Cashmere sweater is a product made of cashmere yarn. Because cashmere fiber is shorter and thinner than fine wool, it is usually spun into 80- 120 fine wool yarn, so its fabric is particularly soft, warm and elastic, and it makes people feel particularly comfortable to wear. After adding a small amount of nylon, the cashmere sweater is more wear-resistant.
Sweaters are products made of knitted wool. Knitted wool includes pure wool and pure acrylic fiber, which are made of two single yarns. The raw material is fine wool, and the spun wool is fine, soft and of good quality, which is difficult to distinguish from cashmere sweater and may even be mistaken for cashmere sweater.
Sweaters are woolen knitwear made of fine wool and coarse wool. The wool used for fine wool is fine, and the wool fiber of coarse wool is slightly thicker. Whether it is fine wool or coarse wool, its raw materials are wool products of ordinary sheep varieties. In addition, there are shirts made of pure acrylic fiber or wool-nitrile blended wool, which also have a wool feeling and are bright.