Is mechanical watch an IQ tax? Don't just look at the brand when buying Swiss watches.

Men will be attracted by Patek Philippe's advertisements when they go shopping, stare at the boss's Rolex when they meet, and even want to say that your grandfather's old pocket watch will be repaired one day …

A decent mechanical watch is usually worth the money, and its workmanship is as fine as Ferrari's, especially in the Jura Mountains of Switzerland.

But then again, in our "always on" digital age, accurate time can be seen everywhere. Why do you wear a mechanical watch?

In addition to being a symbol of identity and style, it is also an emotional and eternal investment ... Brand value-added space like Patek Philippe and Rolex can only be achieved by a fully restored old Ferrari in terms of mechanical objects.

In addition, compared with clothes and shoes, the appearance and functional utilization of watches can last longer.

Therefore, "more and more women buy mechanical watches for newlyweds instead of rings."

Mechanical movement is a pleasant thing, it vibrates 28800 times per hour.

Hundreds of small parts are carefully processed by steel or brass, polished to different degrees of flash, and then assembled by the most skilled watchmakers in the world in a well-lit studio on the top of the mountain.

Although the basic mechanical principles such as the main spring, gear transmission and ticking balance escapement are more or less enjoyed all over the world, the Swiss still try to distinguish themselves from craftsmen in London, new york or Paris.

How did you do that?

Division of labor.

In the earliest Jura Valley, many watch workshops were run by local dairy farmers. When it snows in winter, they will drive their livestock to their dairy farms. Wheels made of cow cheese become metal parts of lathes.

Genius goldsmith Daniel Jean Richard (1665- 174 1) designed a set of system named établissage in Jura, so that each family workshop has its own expertise and is only responsible for some branches of hundreds of processes. The knowledge of watch manufacturing is closely protected, and this system has continued to this day.

Soon, farmers in mountainous areas realized that they could earn more money by carving names on the dial.

Many of them stopped farming for a whole year and started making watches full time. All the families in the whole valley are cooperating, and gradually the quality of craftsmanship has improved and the reputation has also improved.

Jura's La Chaux-de-Fonds is regarded as the real "cradle" of Swiss watchmaking. It is the highest city in Europe, with an altitude of 1 1,000 m, commonly known as "Clock Valley".

In the snowy areas of Central Europe, you will find many shiny glass factories and steel factories of Tissot, TAG Heuer, Breitling and Cartier, which are leisurely located in the rolling green foothills, surrounded by cows and jingling bells.

Just like going on vacation or buying real estate, the old adage abroad also applies to watches: spend as much as you can, no matter what the number is, please rest assured that buying a Swiss watch is definitely worth it.

Less than 500 pounds

It's hard to find a Swiss mechanical watch (except Tissot and Hamilton) that costs less than 800 pounds, but there's nothing wrong with a Swiss quartz watch driven by a battery instead of a spring.

It uses the 32kHz vibration of the crown crystal to adjust the "ticking sound" of the watch-much more accurate than the 4Hz vibration of the mechanical balance wheel, and the annual loss is less than 10 second.

Optional brand

Baoluhua/Xuetiena/Tissot/Meng Dan

(Seiko or Citizen, a Japanese watchmaker, can be said to be a heavyweight at the right time).

Congratulations, you can enjoy the shock brought by the ticking of Swiss mechanical watches, just like the roaring Ferrari V8 under the hood.

Through the transparent dial, the automatic mechanical movement can see at a glance where your money has gone. The mechanical movement of manual winding makes the spring drive the gear transmission, and the hour hand, minute hand and second hand are attached to the gear transmission.

Optional brand

Longines/Bell & Ross/Victoriano/Raymond Wei /Nomos Glashü tte/Tudor

Many connoisseurs invest their first big watch in this price range, and most of the timeless classic products in Swiss watchmaking belong to this category. Do a good job of investigation, take your time, visit local jewelers more often, and don't be afraid to ask silly questions.

Optional brand

TAG Heuer/Carrera/Omega Neptune/Tudor/Black Bay/Breitling

The innovation of these luxury watch brands can be compared with NASA. Each watch is the result of several months' efforts by some super technicians and is also the territory of collectors.

Optional brand

Rolex/Zhenlishi/Wanguo/Hublot/Jaeger-LeCoultre

For the office, a black belt and a clean silver dial are an easy choice. But on Saturday, you may also want a watch that looks right when you are exercising or working-in this case, a metal strap is the perfect choice.

Obviously, the concept of "one watch is suitable for all occasions" ends here.

All-rounder

Slightly retro military style watches are very popular here, with black dial, silver case and brown leather strap, such as Bremont's Airco or Tito's Heritage Ranger.

Waterproof and durability are the key points, which makes diving watches very suitable for these occasions-beach holidays, after-dinner parties, or simply vocal parties, such as INOX Diver in Victorinox.

Dress watch

Classic models for board meetings or formal occasions, such as Longines flagship or Cartier tanks.

This usually means that the stopwatch function is also included. Choose a rubber strap or a metal bracelet, such as Baume &; Clifton Club in messer.

Classic watch

It will never be out of date, nor will it seem out of place. You can try SEAMASTER from Omega, SUBMARINER from Rolex, PORTUGIESER from Universal and CARRERA from TAG Heuer.

There is also a detailed introduction of the brand, which can be moved to "Nine Best Swiss Mechanical Watch Brands".

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This article was originally written by Uncle Niya, please indicate the source. Pictures and materials come from the internet and are only used for non-commercial information dissemination.