What did the woman who hated Chanel? I almost got framed.
Fashion has always been a battlefield without smoke. In Paris in 1930s, there were two women whose names had to be mentioned: Chanel and elsa schiaparelli. Nowadays, most people only know Chanel's name, but at that time, elsa schiaparelli was the real red man in the circle. Elsa schiaparelli is Chanel's lifelong rival. Elsa schiaparelli (1890- 1973) grew up in an Italian aristocratic family in the first half of his escape. Lacking the care of her parents since childhood, she once cried to the cook at home and said, "Maybe I'm not their own." Her greatest pleasure at home is watching and reading the stars with her astronomer uncle. When I grew up, my childhood curiosity and love for the vast night sky were sewn on elsa schiaparelli's clothes. The evening dress of the Big Dipper designed by elsa schiaparelli/1937 ▼ The indifferent family relationship only turned the girl into a rebellious girl. Parents forced themselves to marry an old Russian man, and stubborn elsa schiaparelli refused to compromise. So she ran away from home and fled to this world with the psychic kroll. Elsa schiaparelli's young years were ups and downs, leaving few images. The husband is nominally a psychic, but in fact he is wanted by the FBI. Tired of running after him, elsa schiaparelli left home again with their one-year-old daughter. Elsa schiaparelli lives with his daughter Gogo. Elsa schiaparelli took her daughter to work in an antique shop in Paris during the day and often went to the famous "Cow on the Roof" restaurant at night. There, she met the most important person in her life, paul poiret, the top fashion designer in Paris. Paul poiret's design manuscript in 19 14 is not out of date. "Cow on the Roof" advertisement: This is the first jazz-themed restaurant in Paris, and it was also the base camp of avant-garde artists in Paris at that time, with stars gathering every night. ▼ elsa schiaparelli, who doesn't know anything about sewing technology, has been promoted by her master, and with her imaginative ideas, she has been able to take the next step in the Parisian fashion world. 1927, she introduced a fake-collared sweater with "3D effect", which set off a sports wind in Paris, and even Vogue published the design of this fashionable newcomer. Elsa schiaparelli's illustration on Vogue 1927: elsa schiaparelli's unique optical illusion sweater was the most fashionable item of the year. Elsa schiaparelli wore an ancient Greek evening dress designed by herself, with the illusion of wind and vision. The folds on the clothes are all painted patterns. Hollywood actress marlene dietrich is wearing a elsa schiaparelli. She is also one of elsa schiaparelli's loyal customers. This eccentric woman from Italy subverts the definition of Paris fashion. Every new series of hers is full of curiosity. Before elsa schiaparelli, fashion was just cloth; But after her, fashion became art. Elsa schiaparelli's "eye" hat and eyebrows are Van Cleef & Arpels' diamond accessories. 1935 elsa schiaparelli's unconstrained design manuscript: * * * * Lolita sunshade, glass pleated fan, newspaper printed cotton hat, stunning powder for Easter egg makeup. If you have read Woody Allen's Café Society, you will know that the bustling nightlife of upper-class gentlemen is the most classic scene in the 1930s. Wherever you are, the whole island of Manhattan is full of social nightlife. That period has always fascinated me. This is one of the most exciting moments in new york's history. "-Woody Allen a feast, how can you lack a Chinese dress? In order to adapt to the trend, Paris fashion began to fashion dinner clothes. Elsa schiaparelli's "shocking pink" has become one of the favorite colors when celebrities choose wedding dresses. The cover of Vogue1934 is elsa schiaparelli's stunning pink evening dress. Elsa schiaparelli was the first designer to match a jacket with an evening dress. This dazzling powder cake was originally inspired by a pink diamond owned by American celebrity Daisy Farrow. In Moulin Rouge 1952 edition, the pink evening dress worn by Zsa Zsa Gabor is the classic elsa schiaparelli powder. In Moulin Rouge (1952), which won the Oscar for Best Fashion Design, Zsa Zsa Gabor wore elsa schiaparelli's stunning pink evening dress/1937: 2012 Metgala in metropolis, which caught Chanel off guard because Erhu and elsa schiaparelli could not stand the threat of Shapari Mountain. Speaking of this competitor, Chanel doesn't even want to say her name. She is just an Italian woman who asked her to make clothes. " She even at a dance, suddenly pushed elsa schiaparelli away, making the latter almost die in a candle. Chanel (left) and elsa schiaparelli (right) with different styles, one elegant and the other flamboyant. However, the art world loves Chanel as much as she hates her. Dali designed fashion patterns for her, andy warhol designed glove advertisements for her, and Picasso painted her new series in her paintings ... elsa schiaparelli turned art into fashion and interpreted art with fashion, becoming the first female designer to master wearable art, and Dali and elsa schiaparelli's painting On the French/1950 elsa schiaparelli perfume bottle/1943 "Sun King" perfume bottle was designed by Dali. The "Sun King" perfume was inspired by King Louis XIV of France. Dali and elsa schiaparelli's "lobster skirt": When the design is finished, Dali actually wants to put mayonnaise on the lobster. Even elsa schiaparelli can't accept the "lobster dress" worn by the Duchess of Windsor, which is one of the most famous cooperation between Dali and elsa schiaparelli. The shoes and hats designed by Dali and elsa schiaparelli have lip-shaped pockets. "Tears" brooch designed by artist jean cocteau for elsa schiaparelli/1937: Pearl symbolizes tears. Elsa schiaparelli's Design in Picasso's Paintings/1937: The hat and brooch are both works of elsa schiaparelli. Nowadays, we can always see the cooperation between Gaoding brand and artists, and elsa schiaparelli brought this concept into full play in 1930s. She goes beyond the traditional definition of fashion designer. Artists regard her as a colleague, and elsa schiaparelli makes headlines almost every day. In its heyday, she owned eight studios and managed more than 400 employees. Time magazine/195 1: elsa schiaparelli is the first female designer to appear on the cover of Time magazine. Ms elsa schiaparelli is crazier and more creative than most contemporary designers. She is one of the few designers who are often described as a genius. Time, an Italian living in Paris, was eager to have a home for himself and his daughter because of his long-term running away from work and his two escape experiences when he was young. After she settled in Paris, she bought an apartment full of unique antique furniture. Shapari not only plays art in design, but also is an art collector in private. At home on weekdays, she loves to wear China cheongsam, and often leans against that odd-looking Charles Louis Napolé on Bonaparte-style loveseat to design. Elsa schiaparelli is lying on the Charles Louis Napolé on Bonaparte-style violet loveseat in her Paris apartment/Christie's loveseat should be violet, and there is a huge Orbison tapestry hanging on the wall. Elsa schiaparelli Louis XVI Aubisson tapestry/Christie's elsa schiaparelli house has a collection of unique19th century triangular tables/Christie's elsa schiaparelli house has the works of Julien Nicolas Rivart, a famous porcelain mosaic craftsman in Charles Louis Napolé on Bonaparte. Apart from antique furniture, elsa schiaparelli often receives paintings and sculptures created by artists for her, which she keeps at home or in her studio. Elsa schiaparelli's classic birdcage and two white column lights by the window were created for her by Swiss sculptor giacometti. Giacometti's white column lamp for elsa schiaparelli/1935 Among all the paintings, Picasso's The Caged Bird is her favorite. She once said in her autobiography: "In the birdcage, the white swan lowered its head in dismay and looked at the apple." Another blackbird flapped its wings angrily and tried to challenge the sky. In elsa schiaparelli's private collection, her favorite painting is Picasso's The Caged Bird. Elsa schiaparelli loves this Picasso best, because she saw her own shadow in Two Birds: the sad white swan looking at the apple may symbolize elsa schiaparelli's youth-enjoying the aristocratic life but losing his freedom; And in her heart, there is also an angry blackbird who wants to get rid of all the bondage. Picasso's "The Caged Bird" is in elsa schiaparelli's home. There is no second elsa schiaparelli elsa schiaparelli's "Wearable Art", which brought the cold fashion world to the world like a hurricane. Many traditions in today's fashion world are attributed to elsa schiaparelli: she held a series of new press conferences in her fashion house; She was also the first designer to set a theme for her fashion collection, telling stories in fashion ... elsa schiaparelli's vogue/ 195 1: classic elsa schiaparelli, flamboyant, eccentric and elegant. Elsa schiaparelli's charm and talent were glimpsed between light and shadow in 1930s. The most regrettable thing is that after World War II, elsa schiaparelli decided to quit the Jianghu and concentrate on writing soon after returning to Paris from the United States. In this way, the fashion industry lost elsa schiaparelli, and Chanel was able to make a comeback. Retired elsa schiaparelli no longer has a bag in his hand, but an autobiography. After the war, Paris was full of light and shadow again, but the name of elsa schiaparelli was gradually forgotten. Her retirement seems to prove what she once said: "When people stop copying you, it means that you are behind the times. "I don't know if Chanel, who later returned to the peak of her life, will occasionally miss being with elsa schiaparelli and diamond cut diamond? Want to see more art gossip? Come and pay attention to the official WeChat account LicorneUnique!