Line 4 subway to Leqiao Station, exit 5, walk along Ganjiang Road to the east for six or seven minutes, and get to Wu 30 Road.
Taking Wu 30 Road as the central axis, it reaches Jinfan Road in the west, Park Road in the east, Cross Street in the south and Ganjiang Road in the north, which is the historical and cultural block of Wu 30 Road. There are rich historical sites in this area, and the architecture of the Republic of China is well preserved. Especially in Tongdeli and Li Tongyi, in 1930s, there were two-story houses 19 households, 30 households in Shikumen and 27 households in Liangxiang/kloc-0. The 20 19 TV series "Everything is OK" became an instant hit, in which the old house of Su family was in Tongdeli, which made it popular overnight and almost filled the alley with tourists.
To tell the truth, if it weren't for this drama, I'm afraid I didn't know there were some alleys near Leqiao and Ganjiang Road. Even if you pass by, you will miss the scenery at a glance.
It is said that the history of Teli can be traced back to the Spring and Autumn Period. This used to be the back garden of Wu Palace. After the defeat of Zhang Shicheng in the late Ming Dynasty, it gradually became a fish pond. In the 1920s, when the Northern Bureau built the Ming Kai Theater and other buildings, it leveled the high pier, dug the foundation, piled the earth here, and filled up the fish pond. After that, Du Fu, a rich man in Shanghai, invested in building a house for rent here and named it Tongdeli, which means "Deze".
The entrance of the alley is arched with carved coupons, and there are magnificent Ionian columns on both sides of the door, revealing the western architectural style. In this alley150m deep and 2m wide, more than 20 families live. They are all Shikumen, with carved flowers on the door head. Each courtyard door is half-open or left unlocked, with a U-shaped two-story brick-wood structure and wooden doors and windows. The patio is full of things hanging upstairs. Wu Nong's soft voice came from the room, and there was a sizzling sound of cooking. ...
Tongdeli, which was once crowded two years ago, finally restored calm and harmony after a burst of excitement.
A hundred paces south of Tongli is Li Tongyi. Length120m, width1.5m. It was built in 1930s by Chia Shih-i, Vice Minister of Finance of Kuomintang government. It was named Li Tongyi, which means * * * to benefit together. The entrance ticket gate is slightly different from the one in Tongli-there is no carving on it. There is a stone pier shaped like a flower bed next to the ticket gate, engraved with patterns, animals and the words "enlightened" and "Mudeze", which shows the special historical past of this place.
Not far inside, there is a grotto door on the left, and chrysanthemums are in full bloom. Just when we wanted to go forward involuntarily, a man in his sixties came out of the room. I said, "This chrysanthemum is really beautiful. Can we come in and have a look? "
"Yes, you can come in."
So we went in and took pictures of chrysanthemums with our mobile phones.
The man saw it and said, "How can you shoot well like this? Look at me. " He turned on his mobile phone and pulled out the chrysanthemum photos taken with SLR.
So, we talked. Pointing to this three-bay, two-story wooden building of the Republic of China, he told us: "This house was originally the Suzhou District Administration Office, and the government arranged it for my father after liberation. In fact, Li Tongyi and Tong Deli are relatives of Suzhou cadres. "
I said, "Then you are the second generation of officials."
"Three generations of officials!"
While speaking, an old man came out of the room with a walker. The man said, "This is my mother, 100 years old!"
"ah! Centenarians! It's amazing! What a blessing! " I can't help exclaiming.
The man put it in the old man's ear and told her, "They came to play. They say you are so lucky! " "The old man grinned and smiled happily.
After bidding farewell to mother and son, we continued to walk inside. At the end of the hutong, there is also a Shikumen with the house number marked "Li Tongyi No.5". The door opens to the east and is sandwiched between the north and south buildings, so the door wall is dark and mottled and full of vicissitudes.
Walking into Dudley and Li Tongyi is actually approaching a kind of life. If you want to name this life, you can use the word "most Suzhou".
On May 30th, the roadside trees on the road were phoenix trees, so this road is bound to be covered in summer. Although many people announced in the circle of friends a few days ago that "Suzhou officially entered the winter today", there are still orange and green leaves on the tree writing colorful love poems in the blue sky, making this quiet and quiet road more romantic.
It is reported that on 1925, the May 30th tragedy occurred in Shanghai, and all walks of life in Suzhou initiated fund-raising. Later, this 10,000 yuan was used to widen and build the May 30th Road between the stadium and the big park, which was called "Imperial Waste Base" and "Pingqiao Lane" to commemorate it. The blood of Suzhou people can be seen.
A monument stands near the southwest corner of Wuchan Road Park, and several chrysanthemums are planted in front of it. It seems that this memorial hall has already been branded into the hearts of Suzhou people.
Compared with some emerging ecological parks, the grand park is nothing but a drop in the bucket, but this 64-acre park has always been a leisurely paradise for Suzhou people, bearing the memories of several generations of Suzhou people!
According to Suzhou City Records, it was built in 1920, which is the first modern park in Suzhou. Tracing back to history, it used to be the vice city of Wu in the Spring and Autumn Period. Before Wu Zixu built Sister-in-law Sioux City (now the ancient city), the palace of the prince of Wu was here, and Huang Xie, the king of spring in the Warring States Period, was here, and Zhang Shicheng called the prince of Wu in the late Ming Dynasty. Unfortunately, it ended in nothing, leaving only a place name and a memorable history for future generations.
Seen from the south gate of the Grand Park, there are high and low green plants everywhere. In the large and small open spaces in the forest, there are aunts who play Mulan fans and uncles who prance and dance swords to learn skills. Some grandmothers are doing handshaking exercises, and some grandfathers are carrying cloud hands; On the bench by the river, there are several old people gossiping.
There is no charming natural landscape in the park, but there is the most vivid human landscape. These dynamic landscapes make people slow down and enjoy the taste with a happy heart.
Go counterclockwise along the park and come to the American pilot Short Yi Shi Monument in the northwest of the park. The back of the monument is engraved with "Remembrance", from which I learned about the heroic deeds of the 27-year-old anti-Japanese war hero at the time of his sacrifice, and I couldn't help feeling: justice has no borders!
Long live, long live, who can live forever? Everyone in China knows the emperor! It is said that there are 22 Wanshou Palace in China, and Suzhou occupies one, which is located at Zhi Min Road 15.
According to the data, it was founded by Jiangsu Governor Wu Yu Kangxi in the fifty-sixth year (17 17). Every emperor's birthday, the so-called Wanshou Festival, officials from all over the city gather here to hold a ceremony to congratulate him. In case the emperor dies, there will be a spirit here to offer sacrifices and mourn. Usually, it is used as a place to welcome letters. In the past 300 years, it was destroyed by the war and rebuilt several times. Now it is planned to be Suzhou University for the Aged.
Once a temple, it has now become a place for the elderly to play, and the whole people share a long life! If the then governor had crossed the world and seen the present scene of the Wanshou Palace, I am afraid he would be speechless with surprise.
We went in through the main entrance with the sign "Suzhou University for the Aged". There is a bustling building on the west side of the door. Wujiang people are particularly sensitive to the word "prosperity". Is this the prosperity of Cui Genliang? Without going into details, go straight inside and see several two-story buildings with blue bricks and wooden windows, which should also be buildings of the Republic of China. At the end of the class, the old people came out of the building in twos and threes.
Walking on campus, I only feel that the stone cloister is winding and secluded. Because there are many evergreen plants, although it is winter, they are still in full of green.
Go down the aisle through two circular arches and come to the door of Wanshoutang. The main hall looks magnificent against the blue sky, and the stone platform in front of the main hall is connected with the pedestal.
Walking south out of Yimen, I saw a memorial archway in front with the words "Wanshou Palace" on the front and "People's Cultural Palace" on the back. Some wonder, what is the difference between this "People's Cultural Palace" and the "Workers' Cultural Palace"? Is the meaning of "person" richer? Actually, it doesn't matter anymore. No matter what kind of cultural palace, it seems that it has become a product of history like Wanshou Palace. But there are essential differences between the Cultural Palace and the Longevity Palace. The longevity palace was built for the emperor, and the cultural palace was built for the people. After 300 years of great changes, modern people know that no one in the world can live forever, but today we can wish each other a long life, which is the greatest significance of great changes!
Go east along Zhi Min Road to Fenghuang Street. The ginkgo trees beside the street are still full of golden colors. "Journey to the South" patted them and soon arrived at Dinghuisi Lane.
The archway with the words "Dinghui Temple Lane" written at the entrance of the lane shows that this lane is extraordinary.
The two ginkgo trees in the temple these days should also have golden duck webbed feet, which are dazzling in color. Unexpectedly, the temple gate was closed. However, when you walk into Sugong Lane on the east side of the temple for dozens of steps, you can actually see the two 200-year-old ginkgo trees crossing the yellow courtyard wall more than ten feet high. The crown covered with golden leaves stands out against the blue sky and the black eaves of the temple.
A nearby door creaked open, and an uncle came out and said to us who were holding mobile phones and wanted to shoot ginkgo, "If only you had come a week earlier, these two trees!" Words are full of pride.
"Ok, come early next year." I said with a smile. (Seeing ginkgo in Dinghui Temple, 165438+ Late October should be the best time. )
On the left of Dinghui Temple is Wu Zuoren Art Museum. As a layman of art, I am not interested in art, so I missed it without any suspense. Further east, there is the Twin Towers. Last Mid-Autumn Festival, I went there with a gentleman, so I don't want to go into details. Historically, between Dinghui Temple and the Twin Towers, there was a tribute court covering an area of six acres in the Qing Dynasty. After the abolition of imperial examinations in Qing Dynasty, Hiram's Hospital became a wasteland. Later, houses were built here, probably around the Wu Zuoren Art Museum.
Walking out of Dinghuisi Lane to the east is the Twin Towers Market. This market, created by the master in the TV program "The Dreamer", is an online celebrity vegetable market, which is called a clear stream in the vegetable market.
Inside, I saw that every booth was decorated very artistically. Just look at the sentence on the edge of the shelf-"Let's go shopping in the market together, from green years to white hair", and I think it can be fun to go shopping in the market. Fruits, vegetables, meat products, small commodities ... each category is managed neatly and packaged neatly. In addition, there are all kinds of mashups in the market, including fresh fruits and vegetables, fresh meat, fresh flowers, various groceries, snacks with different flavors, and even coffee and bookstores ... Romance, fashion and warmth linger in the crowd.
Attracted by the smell of fried food, I came to the "old guest full". My friend said there was always a long line at this booth.
They each ordered a bowl of tofu and a pancake. Tofu flowers are soft and smooth, and pancakes are crispy and refreshing. There is only one idea after eating-come here to eat next time. Winning repeat customers should be a realm of the store. On second thought, it's a wonderful idea to use "full of old customers" as the name of the store. Always full, full of old customers, full of old customers ... it can be said that the meaning is rich.
I often go to Suzhou, but I often make mistakes at Cross Street and Shiquan Street. Today, I just wandered to the end, taking a walk in these two streets that I have been stupid and confused.
Go south along Zujiaqiao Road to Cross Street.
Not far to the east, you will see St. John's Church, which is the first church founded by the American Board of Supervisors in Suzhou. Because of Yi's feelings, the church is closed to the public. We can only stand on the streets of Shi Zhi and admire the western buildings standing between white walls and tiles. Towering spires, pointed arches, ribbed vaults, long windows and large windows inlaid with stained glass show the unique style of Gothic architecture and exude a strong religious atmosphere.
It is said that the church was built in 188 1 year by Pan Zaitian Ci Village, a missionary of the American Board of Supervisors. It is called the First Church and has 400 seats.
19 15, the supervisory Committee demolished the first church and built a new western-style church with an area of 1855 square meters and 800 seats. It was renamed St. John's Church in memory of john wesley, the founder of Methodist Church. Its designer is American John m Moore. There are three St. John's churches with the same architectural style and the same area in the world, one in St. Louis, USA, and the other in Kobe, Japan. Li, the grandfather of the Nobel Prize winner in physics, was the first Chinese pastor in the church.
St. John's church is not far to the east, and it is the west gate of the Soviet Union University. Due to special circumstances, the school gate was closed. Turn around and walk west to the south of Wangxing Bridge, turn left along Zhongxinqiao Road and come to the south gate of Suda. The gate faces Baibu Street, and at the end of Baibu Street is Shiquan Street parallel to Cross Street.
To the south of the street is the gate of a school. A closer look reveals that it turned out to be Zhenhua Middle School.
I remembered Fei Xiaotong. At that time, because he went to school early and was young when he entered junior high school, his parents worried that he would be bullied when he went to an ordinary school, so he opened the back door and became the only boy among Zhenhua girls. Therefore, he met the first girl in his life-Jiang Yang. When Jiang Yang told Fei Xiaotong "I have a boyfriend", he also made an appointment with Qian Zhongshu. In his later years, he still remembered Jiang Yang in his articles, saying that Jiang Yang was his first love. Someone took this sentence to prove it. He said, "Fei's first love is not my first love." After Qian Zhongshu's death, Fei Xiaotong went to visit Jiang Yang and met Fei Xiaotong downstairs. Jiang Yang said, "The stairs are difficult to walk, so there is no need to retreat after knowing the difficulties." Finally, this young secret love is a beautiful legend of Yongcheng.
On the west side of Zhenhua Middle School is Peng's former residence, which is known as the first of the four major families in Suzhou. According to historical records, during the nearly 300 years of scientific research in the Qing Dynasty, Jia Peng had two members and top scholars, one was a flower explorer, 14 Jinshi, 3 1 juren, 7 vice-lists, and1more than 30 vice-students. I don't know if Zhenhua Girls' Middle School is located here because it is a treasure-house for studying and seeking fame.
Shiquan Street, formerly known as Shiquan Street, was named after ten ancient wells. However, because Gan Long was called "the old man in Shiquan", he visited the Soviet Union in the south and once lived with Cheng Qiao in the nearby Xiatang Weaving House. In order to please Gan Long, local officials changed Shiquan Street to Shiquan Street. Shiquan Street, from Wuqiu Bridge to the east, is a high-grade residential area in the old city. The house is huge and deep.
Now on both sides of Shiquan Street, there are mostly jade shops and silk clothing stores. I didn't want to shop, so I wandered all the way. On the contrary, the phoenix tree on the road is eye-catching, and the mottled and thick trunk highlights the history of Shiquan Street. Eight small bridges, such as Star Bridge, Belt Bridge, Shipyard Bridge, Wuqiao Bridge, Fumin Bridge and Dicilian Bridge, built on the north side of the street also have their own characteristics, expressing the poetry of Suzhou.
After going down this time, it is estimated that it will never be confused with shiquan street again.
Shiquan Street goes west, crosses the traffic lights on Renmin Road and enters Shuyuan Lane. More than 50 meters ahead, it is the former site of Jiangsu Governor's yamen. Zhumen closed and floated by.
Go directly to Lao Wang's cake shop at the intersection of Golden Lion River. According to friend Ye Zi, this is "the delicious food in the dream of the students in the health school next door, and the stalls are lined up all year round". Fortunately, it is better to come early than to come opportunely. Only three or four people are waiting in line. The smell of leek omelet wafted from the window, which made people have a good appetite. One was not satisfied, so I bought two more to take away for dinner. Today, we will finish the cake.
Next to the west of Lao Wang's cake shop is Yue Ming Building, which was solemnly recommended by Ye Zi. I thought Yue Ming Tower should be a building similar to the Moon Tower, but it is just a small shop with a general environment, but its business is excellent. Ye Zi said that delicious food must be delicious. Although I don't like cake balls, some gentlemen like them and must take some back. On the table by the window, there are green balls, zongzi, red bean cake, pumpkin cake, Osmanthus Jelly, purple potato cake, mint cake, base cake, black rice cake, rose sand cake and lard red bean cake ... dazzling, and caught in the difficulty of choice. Finally, I bought a sand rose cake and a lard red bean cake casually.
Then return to Sanyuanfang, enter the subway station from Exit 4, and take the subway home. Today is a veritable shopping day.