After the Opium War, foreign powers attempted to carve up China and signed a series of unequal treaties with the Qing government. As a result, embassies, consulates, concessions, commercial ports, offices, foreign firms and many other overseas institutions or groups came into being, which naturally involved the clothing problems of these foreigners. As a result, some local tailors with flexible minds and going out to make a living stopped making robes, jackets and double-breasted clothes and began to make suits. And business is good, and gradually made a fortune. At that time, those fashionable tailors (commonly known as redheads) who made suits for foreigners were red-gang tailors.
Jiang Liangtong from Qianjiang Village in Jiangkou and Wang from Wangweipu Village successively went to Fusang in the East to receive tailor training in suits and mastered the skills of making suits. After 1896, "HechangNo." And the "Wang Hangchang" foreign clothing store in Shanghai, which was the earliest foreign clothing store opened by Fenghua tailor in China. Fenghua tailor is characterized by exquisite craftsmanship and a set of superb cutting, sewing and tailoring skills, which were appreciated by people at that time. 1904 Wang spent three days and three nights sewing a suit for Xu Xilin, a famous bourgeois revolutionary in China, which became a pioneering work of China garment industry. 19 16, Dr. Sun Yat-sen came to Rongchangxiang suit shop in Wang Caiyun and asked to transform it into a new dress with straight lapels, four patch pocket buttons and five buttons. Wang Caiyun finished the cutting in less than three days, and Sun Yat-sen was very satisfied. It is called "Zhongshan suit" by later generations and known as "national costume". "Red Tailor" is famous for its exquisite craftsmanship. It not only created three firsts in China's clothing history, but also created a large number of outstanding talents who made suits. In order to expand the family, "Red Tailor" constantly recruits children from Fenghua Township and surrounding villages as apprentices. At that time, "Rongchangxiang Wool Suit" had more than 100 employees at its peak. There are eight suit shops on Nanjing Road, seven of which are run by Fenghua people, and there are more than 100 suit shops in Fenghua, Shanghai. The suit sizes opened by "Red Tailor" are mostly workshops in front of and behind the store, and the industry and trade are integrated. Mainly engaged in suits, shirts, ties and all kinds of shoes and hats, forming a clothing series, which is the characteristic of "Red Tailor" management.
Mr Wang Caiyun was born in poverty, and he has always been anti-imperialist and patriotic. He took an active part in the May 4th Movement and led the commercial strike on May 30th. 1925' s 5.30 tragedy happened near Rongchang Xiang's shop. Mr. Wang Caiyun witnessed the bloody slaughter of China workers and students by imperialism and vowed to resist foreign goods and refuse to do business with foreigners. At that time, the wool used to make suits was imported, and most of them had to deal with foreigners. In order to realize his promise not to sell or buy foreign goods, Mr. Wang Caiyun resolutely abandoned business and gave Rongchang Xiang to his favorite pupil, nephew and son-in-law Wang Hongqing. And give the funds painstakingly woven for many years to the classmates who followed him for many years in the form of dividends.
His disciples got such rich capital that they set up their own business and opened clothing stores.
Fenghua people who left Rongchang Lane to open factories and shops are:
Wang Caixing and Wang Hexing opened Wang Hangchang's woolen suit number at 807 Nanjing Road.
Wang opened Wang's woolen suit number at Nanjing Road 8 15.
Wang Shuntai's woolen suit was opened at No.791Nanjing Road, Wang Fuqing.
Wang opened Yu Changxiang's woolen suit at No.781Nanjing Road.
Wang Shidong and Zhou Yongsheng co-founded Huili Sweater Store at 775 Nanjing Road.
Wang He and Wang Brothers set up Imagination Service Number at No.346, Guangxi North Road.
Wang opened the HSBC suit number at 429 Jing 'an Temple Road (now Nanjing West Road).
Sun opened a suit number of Shuntaixiang in Guizhou Road.
Wang Zengbiao opened a clothing store in Lin Kai.
Wang Fenglai opened Wang's suit shop on Chongqing Road.
Wang Yiqing opened China Leather Shoes Co., Ltd. in the east of Nanjing Road and Henan Road.
Zhou opened Huadong Leather Shoes Store at 777 Nanjing Road.
Therefore, from 1930s to 1940s, the booming clothing industry on Nanjing Road was almost monopolized by Wang Caiyun's relatives and students. For a time, Nanjing Road in Shanghai became a street of Fenghua suit industry. Most of these enterprises have become famous brand stores in Shanghai, which have greatly influenced the prosperity of Nanjing Road and the development of China's suit industry. At this point, the "red tailor" has been fully formed.
Since Wang Hongqing took over, "Rongchang Xiang" has carefully improved its management, developed the group's production business, such as taking over the uniforms of railway workers and aviation military schools, developing military uniforms, raincoats and other businesses, and expanding the wholesale of woolen cloth, making "Rongchang Xiang" more prosperous, with assets of 500,000 yuan in its heyday. In the competition of many other teachers and brothers, it is still the leader in Shanghai's suit industry.
After "Red Tailor" became famous in Shanghai, with the prosperity of Shanghai suit industry and the saturation of shops and technicians, "Red Tailor" opened up living space abroad. Some of them went north to the three northeastern provinces, some went south to Xiamen, Hongkong and Taiwan Province, and some went west to Wuhan in the Central Plains. Some of them have also crossed the country and crossed the ocean to set up foundations and show their talents in North America, Europe, Japan and Southeast Asia. They have traveled all over Beijing, Nanjing, Chongqing, Qingdao, Dalian, Guangzhou, Xiamen and Vladivostok. At present, there are still many second-generation and third-generation students in Hong Kong, Macao and Taiwan and abroad. For example, "Yichang Company" founded by Chen in Hong Kong and woolen clothing company founded by Wang Dinghai are quite influential. As a result, the clothing culture of the motherland has been deeply integrated into the western world.
"Red Tailor" has made great achievements in various places, and its success has never forgotten to benefit mulberry. They love their country and hometown, long for public interests and love justice, support public welfare undertakings, set up charities and take care of their hometown. For example, ginger from Wangxupu Village and Qianjiang Village. Wang Caiyun is known as a "model businessman" in Shanghai. He is a patriotic representative of the Red Tailor. He initiated the establishment of a business association in the concession and served as the first president. He actively supported the May 4th Movement, fought for the legal status and due rights of Chinese in the concession, took the lead in boycotting foreign goods and advocating domestic products, and was an advocate of the industrial salvation movement. He was charitable, and invested heavily in various public welfare undertakings in his hometown, Wangxupu, such as building Grandma Shi Qi, the largest water conservancy facility in the village, dredging the Xupu River, building the "First Bridge", helping 65,438+000 mu of farmland to serve as Xupu school yard for poor children to study for free, and also investing in the establishment of the "Fenghua Orphanage" and so on. Jiang Liangtong's son, Jiang, developed in Shanghai and built the famous "Jinsha School" in his hometown with 123 mu of farmland and 16000 yuan of silver. He also built bridges, roads, and donated money to the Peace Society, which became a much-told story among his neighbors and the eight surnames.
The first and second generation "Red Tailors" cut out the colorful life world of Fenghua people with a pair of scissors, which initiated the national costume culture in China and was the pride of China garment industry. The first and second generation of red gang tailors set up a monument for China's clothing industry. After liberation, the descendants of the third and fourth generations of the Red Gang inherited the essence of the Red Gang and were better than the Red Gang.
Yu, the third generation descendant of the Red Gang, is from Fenghua Baidu. Before liberation, he studied under Wang Caiyun in Shanghai, and practiced the three skills of "Red Tailor" since childhood, namely, visual inspection of clothes, drawing silk to make up the tune and correcting special patterns. At the beginning of liberation, he opened Weber suit shop in Shanghai and sewed the first suit of New China for Chen Yi, the first mayor of Shanghai. On the recommendation of Mayor Chen Yi, the State Council moved Yu He and his wife to Beijing and changed them to Hongdu Clothing Company, which made clothes for many foreign heads of state, consular staff in China and many party and state leaders of the Republic of China, and was known as "the teacher of clothes" and "the country of suits". Many foreign guests praised his suit as better than that of Oxford, England. The suits he made for Cambodian head of state Sihanouk and his wife, Prince, fit perfectly. The prince marveled at "the best costume master he had ever seen" and gave it to a carved silver box as a souvenir, which became a much-told story. As the representative and leader of the "Red Gang" in New China, Yu has made outstanding contributions to the construction of the clothing culture of the motherland. In the past few decades, he has trained a group of highly skilled apprentices. These apprentices, through further inheritance, have integrated the skills of "Hong Bang" into the ocean of China's clothing culture, and enabled the clothing culture of Hong Bang to be carried forward. The third generation descendants of the Red Gang set up the second monument for China garment industry.
Yulin village people succeeded to become the manager of Beijing Hongdu clothing store. He led the "Red Capital" master to customize suits for central leaders, foreign dignitaries and diplomatic envoys abroad. He has superb craftsmanship. 1On September 9th, 976, when President Mao Zedong passed away, the National Security Bureau asked the "Red Capital" to make a suit of Chinese tunic suit for the chairman to wear at the end. He immediately led the tailor to learn. Because he couldn't make clothes, he had to look for old clothes for reference and make them visually. Today, Chairman Mao's silver-gray tunic suit lying in the memorial hall is the masterpiece of Chen Zhikang and others. After Li Peng became the Prime Minister of the State Council, Chen Zhikang basically took care of his own clothes. The family of Cambodian Prince Sihanouk also found Chen Zhikang to make clothes, and established certain feelings. On Queen monique's birthday, Sikenuk specially called Chen Zhikang to attend the birthday party.
Exquisite traditional craftsmanship makes the "Red Gang" increasingly radiant. After the Third Plenary Session of the Eleventh Central Committee of the Communist Party of China, the youth in the clothing industry flourished in the hometown of the "Red Gang". With the historical origin and the technical advantages of Fenghua tailor, Fenghua has successively established many large enterprises such as suits, fashions, sweaters, knitting, shirts, cashmere garments and fur garments. Up to now, there are more than 200 garment enterprises in the city, and the employees engaged in the garment industry account for a quarter of the city's employed population, and the garment output value accounts for a quarter of the city's industrial output value.
The descendants of the new generation of Hongbang not only persisted, but also boldly innovated, combining the traditional craft of Hongbang with modern science and technology, and blending the eastern culture with the western culture, which made the hometown of Hongbang increasingly show strong vitality. 199 1 year, Romon suits dominated the suit industry with "exquisite materials, unique styles, clear lines, beautiful shapes, unique styles and zero missed inspection rate". The former French President saw the clothes worn by China officials and staff in the Great Hall of the People, which were fashionable and pleasant in color, and world-class in texture and craftsmanship. He mistakenly thought that these clothes were imported from abroad. When he learned that these clothes were produced by Fenghua Garment Factory, President Mitterrand immediately praised them and even called them "real oriental art, real oriental art".
With the deepening of reform and opening up, Fenghua's clothing enterprises are constantly moving towards high standards, high quality and high taste. Especially in recent years, garment enterprises such as Romon and Aimei have successively introduced the world's advanced equipment and complete sets of intelligent production lines, and made innovations in their processes. In 2000, Romon successfully developed a "green non-stick lining suit", which was recommended as a "high-quality scientific and technological product" by the French Scientific and Technological Quality Supervision and Evaluation Committee and listed in the "EU Market Sales Catalogue". At present, a higher level of collectivization, serialization, diversification, informationization, branding, personalization and internationalization is taking shape in Fenghua. Fenghua clothing occupies an important position in the national clothing industry. She owns super-class large group companies, well-known trademark enterprises in China and famous brand enterprises in China, among which Romon Group is the largest enterprise in China, the enterprise with the highest profits and taxes in China and the largest export enterprise in China. Romon brand's comprehensive market share ranks second among well-known brand enterprises in China clothing industry. Moreover, Romon entered the European and American markets with his own brand, creating a precedent for the integration of national brands into world-famous clothing, which is the pride of Fenghua people.
The red gang culture is no longer just the red gang culture, but has become a valuable spiritual wealth of Fenghua people, and this spirit is still expanding. Among them, the successful deeds of Sheng Junhai, Sheng Jingsheng and Fu Zhicun, the representatives of the fourth and fifth generation red gangs, are the best interpretation. Hongbang culture has become a symbol of China folk costume art, a kind of "real oriental art", and it is constantly sublimating.
As a clothing genre, Hongbang is an industrial group. Her long-term teaching of the relationship with her mentor has really promoted the development of the national costume industry, but it has also expanded the living space in a new form of inheritance, which will be passed down from generation to generation forever. With exquisite traditional skills, survival and development, and innovative spirit of being the first, the Red Gang will create a leading position tomorrow. With its rich national connotation, the Red Gang deeply cares about the world, serves the public, repays the society, and constantly recreates human civilization.
Cultural Sheng Xing is called prosperity, and the memory of generations is called eternity. Sheng Xing's centuries-old clothing culture of Hong Bang will make Fenghua's clothing industry and even China's clothing industry change with time.